Please Recommend a good pistol light

[alamo5000]

Before to me the idea of running a light on a firearm was something I rarely thought about. Then maybe a year or two ago I got an Arisaka light for my SBR. I really have to say after having it on there it's pretty damn handy. If I ever got into a situation where I actually had to identify a threat at night I really don't know what I would do without it.

I am obviously not claiming to be a tactical ninja clearing houses and stuff like that, but let's just say it's grown on me. I think it's handy as hell. The practicality and utility is much more handy than I ever thought it would be.

The next logical step is to get a light for a pistol.

If you guys can kind of school me on weapons lights and give me 3 or 4 good options that will help me a bunch. I don't want to say money is no object but I would much rather save and pay more and get more for a really nice light with good controls that I can manipulate better.

I guess my initial criteria are quality, bright, long battery life, and control manipulations that I will like. The Arisaka light that I have has a great big momentary button on it. I really like that. It's simple and effective.

On the few pistol lights that I fiddled with (long ago) sometimes have buttons that are too small, or they have some kind of some kind of 'press the button twice real fast to get a flashing light mode' or whatever, or some other fiddly stuff.

My weapons light experience is pretty much limited so initially I am thinking something with an easily manipulated momentary switch would be best.

I'm wide open for suggestions.

[Joelski]

For handgun lights, the choices are pretty much Surefire and Streamlight, with a few Insight and In force offerings thrown in. They all have momentary switches, and lots of opinions. Stick with the latest model 300U, and TLR and read up.

[UWone77]

X300, TLR-1H, APL in that order

The Inforce has improved from their Gen 1 offerings, but they randomly fizzle out still... way too often for my tastes. Surefire of course is the gold standard, but the TLR series is probably the best bang for the buck.

[gatordev]

Also consider holster compatibility, if that matters to you. For example, not all of the Safariland holsters take the newer generation body of the X300. That's a very specific example, but you get the idea.

Beyond all that...get a X300. They're just stupidly durable.

[EO3]

Surefire X300 or Streamlight TLR-1 HL. The Streamlight will give you 200 more lumens for about half the price of the X300, but the durability of the X300 is unmatched. There's also the new Surefire XH35 which has 1k lumens and is priced equal to the X300, but I'm not sure if there are holsters for it outside of the Masterfire line of holsters it was made for.

ETA: If you like watching video reviews, I believe Aaron Cowan of Sage Dynamics has reviews of all three of the above mentioned lights on his YouTube channel.

[Jerry R]

I have a few of the Streamlight TLR lights, the latest being the TLR-1 HL. Paddle on each side of the trigger guard ... momentary and "on", easy to manipulate. I think they are good lights for the money spent.

[ChattanoogaPhil]

Average Joe carry here... I have a Surefire XC. Significantly smaller and lighter than the X series. It fits my 19 like it was made for it. Runtimes with a single AAA aren't impressive compared to the X series with two CR123s but since I'm not performing any duty related tasks runtimes don't have much value for me. I mean... during the past 20 years my carry guns have remained holstered while carrying.

Bright? I suppose what's bright enough is in the eye of the beholder. It wasn't that long ago that 100 lumens was considered eye-blistering. The new XC is rated at 300 lumens. Is has a wide beam Surefire calls Maxvision. My EDC light is a Titan+ with the same 300 lumen Maxvision beam I very much like.

[alamo5000]

Thanks guys! I have my work cut out for me.

Next time I hear something or somebody rifling through my barn in the middle of the night and I have to go determine if it's a racoon or an escaped inmate at least I will have options. LOL

[alamo5000]

ETA: If you like watching video reviews, I believe Aaron Cowan of Sage Dynamics has reviews of all three of the above mentioned lights on his YouTube channel.

I do like watching "reviews" sometimes because at very least I usually can see someone demonstrating the functions of something without me having to find a store so that I can fondle it myself. For bigger purchases I definitely do hands on first normally but some of the demonstrations about how things work are often very useful.


Also consider holster compatibility, if that matters to you. For example, not all of the Safariland holsters take the newer generation body of the X300. That's a very specific example, but you get the idea.

Beyond all that...get a X300. They're just stupidly durable.

As for the holster for the gun in question I actually don't have a good holster for it yet. I put suppressor sites on the gun, a new trigger, and have been thinking about a light for a while now so I have put off getting a holster until it's outfitted the way I want. Truth be told though it's kind of more of a range gun that also doubles as a suppressor host and a night stand gun.

It's not my EDC gun but I will definitely give the holster thing more thought. As for now I have a soft pouch that I keep it in and that's been working well until I see something better.

Eventually I might upgrade or change my EDC gun to include something with a light and all that but that's up the road a bit.

[MoxyDave]

I've been using a Streamlight TLR-6 on my Glock 43 for a couple years. It's been reliable so far, and plenty bright.

[voodoo_man]

Just for HD use, I'd recommend one of those new XH35's or a streamlight TLR 1 HL.

[alamo5000]

Just for HD use, I'd recommend one of those new XH35's or a streamlight TLR 1 HL.

If you have any suggested reading for the correct use of a pistol light in various situations I am all for it. Doesn't matter to me if it's directed more at a Military or LE audience or not. It could give me good ideas either way.

I see a benefit to having an EDC carry with a light, but I also see a benefit to carrying an SBR [:D] As a civilian purely in a 'get off me bro' application I don't know if having a full blown heavy rig will be a benefit or a penalty. I am all ears. I am a shorts and TShirt kind of guy so some big tactical rig might not be the best for me. I am not really sure. It would be nice to learn about more options and choose based on my habits and use.

[gatordev]

If you have any suggested reading for the correct use of a pistol light in various situations I am all for it. Doesn't matter to me if it's directed more at a Military or LE audience or not. It could give me good ideas either way.


I would look at doing a class once you pick the light and holster. And sometimes the holster doesn't have to be for practical use, but to do training with.

I found after doing both a low-light class and then being able to practice what I learned in a low-light environment, some stuff I read on the internet didn't work the same for me, ESPECIALLY as a non-combatant/non-LEO. Seeing how a bright-ass light on a really dark night can actually make it hard to aim was valuable. Also seeing how in city lighting, once a target is identified, I may find turning on a light makes things worse. Etc, etc. Couple some handheld light use in there, as well, and it's a valuable exercise.

[alamo5000]

I would look at doing a class once you pick the light and holster. And sometimes the holster doesn't have to be for practical use, but to do training with.

I found after doing both a low-light class and then being able to practice what I learned in a low-light environment, some stuff I read on the internet didn't work the same for me, ESPECIALLY as a non-combatant/non-LEO. Seeing how a bright-ass light on a really dark night can actually make it hard to aim was valuable. Also seeing how in city lighting, once a target is identified, I may find turning on a light makes things worse. Etc, etc. Couple some handheld light use in there, as well, and it's a valuable exercise.

I would LOVE to do classes. I have a number of them that would be useful. Of course life has gotten in the way but they are definitely on the agenda. Classes have been on my radar for a long time already.

[alamo5000]

OK I did a quick glance at two of the models suggested. The Surefire X300 and the Streamlight TLR-1HL.

Between those two, and I have no concrete reason to say this yet, but I kind of prefer the Surefire. The specific model I am looking at is the X300U-A. For now it will go on a P226.

https://www.surefire.com/illumination/weaponlights/handgun/x300u-a-weaponlight-rail-lock.html

So far that's where I have my eye, but I will find a stocking dealer nearby and play with them and maybe try to go a little bit deeper into the various specs.

I am basing my bias at least partially on the idea that they are nearly bombproof according to you guys. I place a higher priority on that if everything else was equal. That Rail Lock mounting system looks interesting although I am not quite sure how it works exactly. Other models like the Streamlight look like they have a thumb screw attachment.

Is one attachment method more secure than the other?

My current light is the Arisaka 300 Series. The website says it throws 300 Lumens. The Surefire page though says it throws twice that---600 Lumens! Is it really that much more bright? I guess if you need to blind somebody for a second that would come in handy.

Also on my Arisaka light the light cone seems to be pretty good. It has enough to spill over so I can say bounce the light off the ceiling and it will light up a small room. If the light was focused too narrow it would be more like a laser which I don't think I would like that. I want to see what I am doing not really use it as an aiming tool.

I don't know what the light cone is on the Arisaka light but let's say for discussion sake it's 30 degrees. Something similar on a handgun light seems like it would be good. I don't think the light cone on them are adjustable but I could be wrong.

I know I am getting kind of deeper into this here but any information about your preferences or knowledge will help.

[Default.mp3]

The consensus is that the X300U-B is preferable for any metal rail, such as on your P226 or on a quad rail for a rifle, while the X300U-A is better for polymer rails, such as on a Glock or maybe an MOE rail piece.

When you say "cone", what you probably mean is the hot spot? Which is related to throw. Beam-shape for urban home defense is largely a user preference thing, IMO; once you get into duty or rural use, throw becomes much more important, due to much longer ranges.

I'm a die-hard SureFire fan, mostly because I love the use of the DG switch. That being said, it's not for everyone, and requires some training to make sure you don't touch something off due to a sympathetic response, or have a light ND in an inopportune time.

I will note that most low-light pistol courses I have attended have focused heavily on the handheld side of things, rather than the WML, mainly because the WML is largely an issue of figuring out a consistent switchology, and then just shooting pretty normally. Tactics are something that most open-enrollment 2 day classes aren't going to be able to get in super-deep with, IME.

[alamo5000]

When you say "cone", what you probably mean is the hot spot? Which is related to throw. Beam-shape for urban home defense is largely a user preference thing, IMO; once you get into duty or rural use, throw becomes much more important, due to much longer ranges.


My use is primarily rural. No street lights etc. My immediate lawn is about 100 yards wide and almost 300 yards deep and there are barns and stuff like that on the property.

By 'cone' I mean how tight or wide the beam is. If I shine the light on a wall 10 feet away and I only get a spot the size of a softball that's too tight. I know that's an exaggerated example but I don't know the technical term to use. Like I said earlier, the Arisaka light is right on. If I go into a dark room and bounce the light around off the ceiling or something it will pretty much light up the whole room enough to see if there is anything or anybody in there. At the same time if I am walking through the yard the distance it reaches is still very good. Just informally speaking you can easily spot a person in the yard from 75 to 100 yards away or better. It casts a wide enough beam if I want to say scan across the yard or something like that as well I can do it. And if for example I go walking around the woods in the dark I have a light on my gun etc etc if for nothing else to scan the area, see where I am going, or whatever. The odds of me just strictly hunting down a bad guy is not very high.

Even if I go on a night time pig hunt for example it would be a priceless thing to have. I really am glad I bought that light. I just need to transfer the same concept to a pistol.

With the Arisaka light I have a much better idea of how I use that one, as for a handgun how I will, like you mention manipulate the controls while still being able to shoot is TBD.

And absolutely thanks for the info about which models are better for which rails. That really does help a lot.

To be honest I am kind of tempted to get one of the little flashlights too but for now I am sticking with a weapons mounted light for this particular purpose.

[alamo5000]

Default.mp3 really did bring up a valid point about light manipulation. With my light on my SBR I can keep both hands on the gun and either keep the button depressed or just turn the light to constant without ever taking my eyes or red dot off of the bad guy. In theory if I found an escaped convict in my barn for example I could light him up without compromising my ability to use the weapon if needed.

With a pistol that's something I am just going to have to practice. Any piece of equipment should become second nature, kind of like being able to walk around your own house blindfolded.

I most definitely want to take a class, and I probably will once things settle down more, but for now if I get a good light and just get used to the controls that's a big step right there.

[alamo5000]

once you get into duty or rural use, throw becomes much more important, due to much longer ranges.

I'm a die-hard SureFire fan, mostly because I love the use of the DG switch. That being said, it's not for everyone, and requires some training to make sure you don't touch something off due to a sympathetic response, or have a light ND in an inopportune time.


Can you define more (briefly) what you mean by the following:

"duty use"
"rural use" (maybe this is all I am familiar with LOL. That's all I got in every direction. Rural. I take that to mean bigger wide open areas, like my yard for example.)
"DG switch"
"sympathetic response"
"ND"

I am not professionally trained so sorry of those are stupid questions.

The way I am looking at it is if I need to go help hunt some kid down that is lost in the woods, or scan the property, or go check out the barn (big barn) that would maybe be considered duty or rural use?

[Default.mp3]

"duty use"
"rural use" (maybe this is all I am familiar with LOL. That's all I got in every direction. Rural. I take that to mean bigger wide open areas, like my yard for example.)Duty and rural use just means you'll have to be using it outdoors at times, or at least in side a large structure, where having good throw is going to be important. Given how there's only so many lumens an LED can pump out, you'll want to focus some of that light into a hot spot so it can throw farther (thus why mad lumens alone isn't a good indicator of how far you can see at night; lux is the measurement of how many lumens within an area). For pure urban home defense, there simply isn't going to be a large enough room generally for throw to play that much of a role, compared to the raw lumens. A good example of this is how some folks find that the X300U, despite having almost half the lumens of the XH35, has much better throw, due to the beam shape. In side the house, the super-floody beam of the XH35 doesn't pose an issue, but outside, you just can't see as far with the XH35, despite it having way more lumens, because the beam is so diffuse.


"DG switch"It's SureFire's pistol-specific pressure switches: https://www.surefire.com/dg-remote-tailcap-switch-x-series.html
Streamlight also has pistol pressure switches, but by all accounts, they are inferior to the SureFire versions, and they only have Glock and M&P models anyway, while SureFire has a wider variety. The switches do wear out, and are technically not covered under SureFire's lifetime warranty, but I've not had issues with them swapping out my switches when issues came up.


"sympathetic response"In this particular context, your tendency for your fingers to follow each other. This is a concern about the DG switch; because you manipulate the switch with pressure from the middle finger, if you aren't diligent and have your trigger finger off the trigger in a good index, you might accidentally pull the trigger when attempting to just turn the light on. There have been several cases of LEOs allegedly doing this: https://www.denverpost.com/2014/03/20/gun-mounted-flashlights-spark-concerns-in-wake-of-accidental-denver-police-shootings/#axzz2wVBiaS79

I would argue that this is nothing more than a training issue, which is also the tack that SureFire takes: http://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/2011/03/robert-farago/surefire-fires-back-at-force-science-slam/

This also illustrates why generally it is best to have both a handheld and a WML, followed by having just a handheld, while having a WML only is the worst option, as with a WML, you have much less flexibility in how to safely use the light; modern WMLs have enough output to make it so that you can still illuminate to a certain extent by just bouncing light off of walls or floors, but it's still rough to be diligent in not muzzling anything when a WML is your only light.


"ND"Negligent discharge. In this case, a light ND is the unintentional use of the white light; not really a concern for us average civilians, but can destroy your element of surprise, which is something much graver in the military world, and to a certain extent, LE realm.


The way I am looking at it is if I need to go help hunt some kid down that is lost in the woods, or scan the property, or go check out the barn (big barn) that would maybe be considered duty or rural use?Yes, for something like that, I would want something with a lot of throw, because, well, you're outdoors.


Beam anatomy: What’s a hotspot? What’s spill?

Typical modern flashlights with the usual flat lens and reflector produce a beam that’s concentrated at its brightest in the center, or “hotspot,” with a much larger and less intense surrounding ring called the “spill.” The transition area around the hotspot going into the spill is sometimes called the “corona.”

What does “throw” mean? What’s “flood?”

Throw refers to the distance the beam travels to still effectively illuminate an object. “Throwy” lights tend to have higher beam intensity, “tighter” hotspots and larger, deeper reflectors to let the beam really go places. If you’re exploring caves or find yourself in dark open areas, this is the spec you want to look for. You might see units like lux and candelas in spec sheets — simply put, these measure light on a given area and can tell you how intense and far-reaching the beam can be.

Flood refers to the area illuminated by a light. A beam that’s “floody” usually doesn’t go as far, but it bathes a wider area, allowing you to see more of your up close surroundings. You’d usually find shallow reflectors (or none at all) and larger die LEDs. Floody lights work well as task lamps or short-range navigation as opposed to search applications like a throwy light.Source: http://everydaycarry.com/posts/8861/the-beginners-guide-to-edc-flashlights

[gatordev]

Between those two, and I have no concrete reason to say this yet, but I kind of prefer the Surefire. The specific model I am looking at is the X300U-A. For now it will go on a P226.

You won't be disappointed.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1475/24523703964_ee1e239e04_b.jpg

Something else to be aware of for the mounting system, specifically since you have a Sig. The X300 comes with two locking clips. One is for a 1913 rail and one is for a Glock rail (they don't call it that, but you get the point). Of the pistols that I own that can mount lights, I have Glocks and Sigs. If I wanted to move lights around, I'd have to completely take the locking mechanism apart each time, which isn't a quick evolution. I don't have a light for every pistol, so this wasn't optimal for me.

But there's a solution! You can take the "Standard" (Glock" locking mechanism and just slightly sand down the aft, vertical part of the cross bar on the light and then it will be thin enough to snap into the Sig rail and still fit tight on a Glock.

Note: this works for a U-A. I don't have any X300U-Bs (I don't think, anyway).

[Slippers]

Skimming this thread, per alamo's request. Lumens isn't the be-all end-all measuring stick. Also keep in mind that it takes four (4) times the lumens to appear twice as bright to the human eye.

Candela (or lux) is how concentrated the beam is, which some people call the throw. For instance, the old 300 lumen Surefire M300C has roughly the same throw as the new 500 lumen M300C, but the new version has much more spill, so the light isn't as concentrated. The increase in lumens makes up for it, so you don't lose any distance, and gain more illumination in the surrounding areas.

Traditionally the surefire pistol lights like the x300 have always had less lux and more spill than the rifle lights (which makes sense, you generally aren't shooting 100+ yards with a pistol).

As for which to go with, I hate the switching on everything on the market. The streamlight TLR1 in particular is way too easy to activate. I prefer a handheld for this reason, but if I had to use one, I'd go x300.

[alamo5000]

Skimming this thread, per alamo's request. Lumens isn't the be-all end-all measuring stick. Also keep in mind that it takes four (4) times the lumens to appear twice as bright to the human eye.

Candela (or lux) is how concentrated the beam is, which some people call the throw. For instance, the old 300 lumen Surefire M300C has roughly the same throw as the new 500 lumen M300C, but the new version has much more spill, so the light isn't as concentrated. The increase in lumens makes up for it, so you don't lose any distance, and gain more illumination in the surrounding areas.

Traditionally the surefire pistol lights like the x300 have always had less lux and more spill than the rifle lights (which makes sense, you generally aren't shooting 100+ yards with a pistol).

As for which to go with, I hate the switching on everything on the market. The streamlight TLR1 in particular is way too easy to activate. I prefer a handheld for this reason, but if I had to use one, I'd go x300.

Follow up on that, compared to your 300 series which I own, what kind of light, throw, beam shape, etc can I expect with the x300 using the Arisaka as a baseline?

I've been kind of laying it on thick about that light but it's my first light and the only thing I am familiar with.

So far the x300 looks like a solid option. I am just wondering compared to the 300 series what kind of light beam and throw and how wide etc will an x300 light be? (just for my personal understanding)

[ChattanoogaPhil]

My use is primarily rural. No street lights etc. My immediate lawn is about 100 yards wide and almost 300 yards deep and there are barns and stuff like that on the property.


First thing I'd do it put up a pole light.

[alamo5000]

You won't be disappointed.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1475/24523703964_ee1e239e04_b.jpg

Something else to be aware of for the mounting system, specifically since you have a Sig. The X300 comes with two locking clips. One is for a 1913 rail and one is for a Glock rail (they don't call it that, but you get the point). Of the pistols that I own that can mount lights, I have Glocks and Sigs. If I wanted to move lights around, I'd have to completely take the locking mechanism apart each time, which isn't a quick evolution. I don't have a light for every pistol, so this wasn't optimal for me.

But there's a solution! You can take the "Standard" (Glock" locking mechanism and just slightly sand down the aft, vertical part of the cross bar on the light and then it will be thin enough to snap into the Sig rail and still fit tight on a Glock.

Note: this works for a U-A. I don't have any X300U-Bs (I don't think, anyway).

Awesome looking gun. I am very confident in you guy's ability to spend my money wisely. LOL! On a serious note I have gotten nothing but good guidance from the forum as a whole.

Regarding the mounting system, I am not quite sure what the rail type is on a P226. It's not a standard rail from what I can tell. It's kind of belled out on the bottom. I will try to find a dealer nearby where I can actually handle the product(s) I am interested in. That will probably answer a lot more questions. At least now I will have a better idea what to look at.

The whole lumens vs candela thing was very interesting. That was some very good stuff to learn about. I will try to go, maybe even today and see if the local shop I have in mind has one in stock so I can see a demo.

Come to think about it I should probably just buy the damn thing. That said as pointed out earlier by you and Default.mp3 the mounting systems are a bit different. At this point that's kind of where I am at.

[voodoo_man]

Holy nerding out batman...

I like that people dive into certain aspects of WML's tech, application and tactics.

For an HD, drawer/desk gun, you need it to do two things. Turn light on and turn light off at will. That's it. 99.99% of the lights do that.

If your budget allows it, get one of the newer WML's which I recommended.

If you are on a tight budget get a TLR-1s, I carried one on duty for years, it is good to go for duty work and will be perfectly fine for HD work and dry training.

This is more a training thing than a hardware thing. Most WML's on the market do exactly the same thing with very slight differences. Unless you are using it for DUTY work or OVERT action, please keep your eye on the goal.

[Eric]

Can you define more (briefly) what you mean by the following:

"sympathetic response"?

Perhaps more info than you want, but a good read none the less.

Involuntary Muscle Contractions and the Unintentional Discharge of a Firearm
Roger M. Enoka, Ph.D

https://fortress.wa.gov/cjtc/www/images/docs/classes/Firearms_Patrol_Rifle_Instructor_2014/Section%2015%20Resources.pdf

[gatordev]

Awesome looking gun.

Regarding the mounting system, I am not quite sure what the rail type is on a P226. It's not a standard rail from what I can tell. It's kind of belled out on the bottom. I will try to find a dealer nearby where I can actually handle the product(s) I am interested in. That will probably answer a lot more questions. At least now I will have a better idea what to look at.



Thanks!

Your 226 has a Picatiny (ie, 1913) rail, that's why I mentioned it. Either way, you'll be fine with the X300, I was just pointing out that without slight modification, you can't move the light around easily from pistol to pistol (ie, Sig to Glock) like you can with suppressors/optics/etc. But like I said, it's easily remedied.

[alamo5000]

Holy nerding out batman...

Who?!Meeee??? Nerding out????!!! Say it ain't so! Lol!

It's almost like you've known me since birth! Hahaha!

I am a notorious for being a picky shopper but in this case I have not been near as bad as before. Lol!

Basically put though I would rather over buy than under buy, even if it's a few extra bucks.

My intention was obviously as I mentioned above but in addition to that eventually I want to enroll in weapons classes. It might not be next week but I definitely want to do it.

Kind of like buying more than I need in hopes of growing into it as I learn more.

Hence I am trying to pick some brains here which is rarely a bad thing ;)

At this point I'm pretty sure what I will get. I do want to try and play with my first choice in person before I fork out the cash though.

I'm tempted to get a hand held light too but we will see.


Perhaps more info than you want, but a good read none the less.

Involuntary Muscle Contractions and the Unintentional Discharge of a Firearm
Roger M. Enoka, Ph.D

https://fortress.wa.gov/cjtc/www/images/docs/classes/Firearms_Patrol_Rifle_Instructor_2014/Section%2015%20Resources.pdf

It wasn't more than I wanted. It was right on the money. I love learning. I'm like a sponge dude. Inquisitive by nature.


Thanks!

Your 226 has a Picatiny (ie, 1913) rail, that's why I mentioned it. Either way, you'll be fine with the X300, I was just pointing out that without slight modification, you can't move the light around easily from pistol to pistol (ie, Sig to Glock) like you can with suppressors/optics/etc. But like I said, it's easily remedied.

Stuff like that is awesome to know.

I'm not a Glock man yet. But as cash permits I will buy and outfit more guns as time goes on.

[gatordev]

I'm not a Glock man yet. But as cash permits I will buy and outfit more guns as time goes on.

Rog.

I thought you also had one in your stable, so just putting out there. If you don't, even less of an issue for you.

That said, and given all the other stuff here said, AND given your resources (ie, a nice range setup out your back porch), you just need to use what you have/buy something "good" and use it. You'll quickly find out if it works for you and you can adjust from there. And if you buy a X300U-A and don't like it, I'll be happy to take it off your hands (and the appropriate market value, of course!). Smiles and stuff.

[Joelski]

For CC, consider a good EDC hand light (same brands), and take some training on fighting with the separate items. A light is a lot handier when you're not comitting a crime to use it in public. By the same token, you don't have to carry two lights to legally illuminate something that doesn't need shot. Don't need a light when you're out? Then you likely don't need a weapon light for other than home defense.

[alamo5000]

Rog.

I thought you also had one in your stable, so just putting out there. If you don't, even less of an issue for you.

That said, and given all the other stuff here said, AND given your resources (ie, a nice range setup out your back porch), you just need to use what you have/buy something "good" and use it. You'll quickly find out if it works for you and you can adjust from there. And if you buy a X300U-A and don't like it, I'll be happy to take it off your hands (and the appropriate market value, of course!). Smiles and stuff.

You hit the nail on the head. I just need to 'get in the game'. That said I am being cautious with the cash. Lots of family issues that are being resolved at the moment. That said I want to buy above my rank so to speak. At this point it's basically 'which model number?'

As for Glocks, I don't doubt they are fantastic, but every time I handled one they just feel awkward to me. That said the whole ability to customize them is absolutely fantastic. I saw a Glock the other day that was $3000 bucks! That's insane!

I would definitely like to pimp out a CZ as well. STI is also something on my bucket list.

Speaking of customization, you need to get an Armory Craft trigger for that P226 of yours. THAT is one upgrade I've never ever regretted. It's like I have a whole new gun. The flat trigger is the way to go.

https://www.armorycraft.com/product-page/copy-of-sig-p220-p226-p227-p228-p229-flat-adjustable-trigger


For CC, consider a good EDC hand light (same brands), and take some training on fighting with the separate items. A light is a lot handier when you're not comitting a crime to use it in public. By the same token, you don't have to carry two lights to legally illuminate something that doesn't need shot. Don't need a light when you're out? Then you likely don't need a weapon light for other than home defense.

You have made absolutely 110% excellent points. You summed up a lot of the pros and cons I've thought of about regarding EDC a weapons lights. At home it's different. When you're walking around with a firearm on in public it's something else. In the latter scenario you can't just draw your weapon to help change a tire or something like that.

Geez man! Why do you have to go off and be all logical and stuff! Now I have to buy two lights. LOL

I want one for a gun around the house for obvious reasons. Once I get everything pimped to my satisfaction I will get a good kydex holster made for it or that fits it.

I do go to the city quite frequently but honestly I live in a small town. On the flip side of that I have been out sending piggies to meet their maker more than once and more than once in the pitch black I was stumbling around wishing I had a light on me.

[Joelski]

More is always better. [;)]

The advantage cops have is the expectation that they carry at least one gun. They have the advantage when it comes to storage because nothing beats OWB carry for a light-bearing weapon.

[UWone77]

More is always better. [;)]



5499

[alamo5000]

5499

WTF! Apparently you know somebody at surefire. LOL

Hook a brother up!

I found a X300 U-B for $231 shipped to the house. Is that a good deal? Fair?

I saw some on ebay for cheaper (slightly) but they are not major sellers. For ten bucks I would have the peace of mind that they are all legit and will back up the product.

Do they ever go on sale for cheaper than that or is it a decent price?

[Default.mp3]

I found a X300 U-B for $231 shipped to the house. Is that a good deal? Fair?Not great. Check out the coupon code seen here: https://bigtexoutdoors.com/blogs/news/surefire-x300u-a-vs-b

Ike at Big Tex is a stand-up guy (and we've had to cover each other's backs as force-on-force opfor roleplayers more than once), and I've bought from him many times.

[alamo5000]

Not great. Check out the coupon code seen here: https://bigtexoutdoors.com/blogs/news/surefire-x300u-a-vs-b

Ike at Big Tex is a stand-up guy (and we've had to cover each other's backs as force-on-force opfor roleplayers more than once), and I've bought from him many times.

Even with the code the price is similar. They are in Texas and I have to pay tax. I am actually familiar with that store. They are very local to me. 30 minutes.

[UWone77]

I get all my SF lights from Slippers. Send him a PM on what he can do.

[alamo5000]

Not great. Check out the coupon code seen here: https://bigtexoutdoors.com/blogs/news/surefire-x300u-a-vs-b

Ike at Big Tex is a stand-up guy (and we've had to cover each other's backs as force-on-force opfor roleplayers more than once), and I've bought from him many times.

I find places online that have kick ass prices on stuff but then I click through and have to add $$$ because of our state sales tax. If you look at the all in prices things wind up costing a little bit more if you buy online from in state. It kind of sucks because I would prefer to support local businesses in a lot of instances. There are sometimes exceptions to this.

His prices were very competitive, it came out to be about $10-15 cheaper (for me) and that's before shipping, so net difference, again $10 bucks. By the time I drive over, drive back, plus I get a no questions asked return policy (for free)...

It's always been a thing for TX gun buyers. People can buy stuff online and skip the sales tax, and 9 times out of 10 they will price out a lot of local sellers. It just depends. Sometimes once you factor in FFL fees (either paying or not paying them) sometimes it's a wash. It just depends.

[alamo5000]

I get all my SF lights from Slippers. Send him a PM on what he can do.

I will do that. I went ahead and placed the order before you responded (which I could probably cancel if he gets back to me ASAP).

I compared about 10 places and I just went with one that I have bought from before. Net to me they were only $10 more than anywhere else I could find. Everyone else was more expensive.

[BoilerUp]

I find places online that have kick ass prices on stuff but then I click through and have to add $$$ because of our state sales tax. If you look at the all in prices things wind up costing a little bit more if you buy online from in state. It kind of sucks because I would prefer to support local businesses in a lot of instances. There are sometimes exceptions to this.

His prices were very competitive, it came out to be about $10-15 cheaper (for me) and that's before shipping, so net difference, again $10 bucks. By the time I drive over, drive back, plus I get a no questions asked return policy (for free)...

It's always been a thing for TX gun buyers. People can buy stuff online and skip the sales tax, and 9 times out of 10 they will price out a lot of local sellers. It just depends. Sometimes once you factor in FFL fees (either paying or not paying them) sometimes it's a wash. It just depends.

Yeah, sales tax means I don't send as much business to Rainier as I probably would if I was out of state. Well, that, and 30 minutes up here isn't considered "local" like it is in Texas.

Ah, I remember the days when I could order from Amazon and not have to pay sales tax! Moving to WA completely killed that, but they've grown their distribution network so large now that only a handful of states don't hit you.

With the SCOTUS ruling the other day, I'm sure it's only a matter of time before "sales tax arbitrage" via e-commerce goes away for most states.

[gatordev]

Alamo, ArmUnlimted has X300U-As for $199, FYSA. AU has turned themselves around from a few years ago and they ship fast.

[alamo5000]

Yeah, sales tax means I don't send as much business to Rainier as I probably would if I was out of state. Well, that, and 30 minutes up here isn't considered "local" like it is in Texas.

Ah, I remember the days when I could order from Amazon and not have to pay sales tax! Moving to WA completely killed that, but they've grown their distribution network so large now that only a handful of states don't hit you.

With the SCOTUS ruling the other day, I'm sure it's only a matter of time before "sales tax arbitrage" via e-commerce goes away for most states.

Heck man, we drive an hour one way to go get decent food :)

It's kind of weird to me when I meet people from the NE especially. "45 minutes away?! Wow! We better plan..." LOL

In California 45 minutes drive is 10 miles at best in light traffic. Here its generally like 60 to 70 miles. Texans have this weird ability to give directions in minutes rather than miles. That and "right up the road" or "neighbors" have entirely different meanings.

As for the SCOTUS thing I read all about that the other day as I'm generally a finance kind of guy. I'm still unsure of the net results of the decision. For sure smaller shoestring online stores are going to get screwed.

It's probably going to result in higher prices across the board as well as a lot more business for accountants. Those "share a CFO" businesses that offer accounting services will gain more business and the total number of online mom and pop stores will probably go down.

I'm not sure yet how it will go yet. It could put everyone on equal footing or it could drive more people to only the bigger retailers. It's quite possible that it will kill a lot of competition from smaller companies.

[alamo5000]

Alamo, ArmUnlimted has X300U-As for $199, FYSA. AU has turned themselves around from a few years ago and they ship fast.

Thanks man. I've seen the A series a lot for around that price. I think I'm going to get a B series as recommended because of the fit to the rail on my gun. I found some videos that said the same thing as was said earlier here about the fitment on some rails.

Mine is going to be dedicated to my P226.

I got to play with a streamlight the other day and it was pretty cool but I think I might like the surefire better.

To me the only thing separating the two are how manipulation happens. Surefire has the push in for momentary feature and it seems like it's a lot more truly ambi as the manipulations are the same on both sides of the light.

Streamlight is push up or down. Up on the right side is momentary, down is on. The left side is just the opposite.

That's a good thing to know.

[gatordev]

The only fitment issue I've had with the U-A was because I was intentionally using the wrong rail mount. Obviously buy what you need/want, but to me the price isn't worth it when paired with the fact that the U-B won't fit in my Safariland holster. Obviously that's a use case specific to me and not a problem you're needing to solve.

[mustangfreek]

Wow..nice stash of surefire UW..


5499

[alamo5000]

Quick follow up question about the Surefire light I have, or well any light for that matter.

I watched a Youtube video about a guy that did a lot of shooting and the bezzle on his light got really fouled up. Link below.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uu6U9qJxwxs

Usually I am shooting with a suppressor but not always. How many of you guys actually tape off your bezzles to keep them from getting carbon fouling? Is that really a thing?

[gatordev]

Yes. It's a non-issue to the finish (you can remove it without affecting the actual finish to the light as seen in the video) and if you put a little lube on the lens of the light, the fouling comes right off if you wipe it off every couple hundred of rounds. An eraser can also help.

[alamo5000]

Yes. It's a non-issue to the finish (you can remove it without affecting the actual finish to the light as seen in the video) and if you put a little lube on the lens of the light, the fouling comes right off if you wipe it off every couple hundred of rounds. An eraser can also help.

What kind of lube should I put on the lens of the light? This is good information. Never heard of that before.

I run a threaded barrel so the blast is out a little farther but I still want to avoid clouding up my lens or spending time screwing around trying to clean a light if possible.

[gatordev]

What kind of lube should I put on the lens of the light?


Not today, ISIS!

Your lube of choice. Obviously everyone has their (strong) opinions on what to use. I personally use Slip EWL, but you can experiment as necessary.

All that said, I have a X300 on a stock Glock 17 that I've neglected for > 500 rounds (might be approaching 1K, but not sure) and the light beam still is strong. The lens is dirty, but a little rubbing with some lube will return it to at least 98% normal.

[alamo5000]

Not today, ISIS!

Your lube of choice. Obviously everyone has their (strong) opinions on what to use. I personally use Slip EWL, but you can experiment as necessary.

All that said, I have a X300 on a stock Glock 17 that I've neglected for > 500 rounds (might be approaching 1K, but not sure) and the light beam still is strong. The lens is dirty, but a little rubbing with some lube will return it to at least 98% normal.

HAAAHAA!!!

That actually gave me a great laugh!

I have some stuff that will probably be just the right fit for this application.

[Former11B]

I’ve used toothpaste that has baking soda to restore carbon fouled lenses

Scrub a dub and rinse

[alamo5000]

I’ve used toothpaste that has baking soda to restore carbon fouled lenses

Scrub a dub and rinse

Cool! I am learning a ton. [BD]

I am hoping that the threaded barrel will keep most of the muzzle blast off of the bezzle. Prevention vs cure.... The extra length makes them almost even with each other in length with the light just a little bit longer but not by much.

This is good information to know though... for definitely.

[gatordev]

The light on my threaded G17 lasts a little longer than the OEM G17, but it still gets dirty. I forgot about toothpaste. That's another good suggestion.

[alamo5000]

I forgot about toothpaste. That's another good suggestion.

I am learning the ways of the ninja. [:D]

[Joelski]

Get those little tear-off lens covers. And tell the guy who scrubbed his light shroud for 3 hours to buy it a fucking bonnet FFS! The guy with all the spotless "tac" gear usually knows the least.

[Stone]

"Quick follow up question about the Surefire light I have, or well any light for that matter.

I watched a Youtube video about a guy that did a lot of shooting and the bezzle on his light got really fouled up.

Usually I am shooting with a suppressor but not always. How many of you guys actually tape off your bezzles to keep them from getting carbon fouling? Is that really a thing?"


My X300U on my 10.5" SBR gets the living snot hammered out of it by the MD. When the lens is completely black I just put a little cleaner/degreaser on a rag and it all wipes off in a few seconds.

I have heard of guys putting chapstick on the lens to keep it from getting boogered up.

[Jerry R]

Get those little tear-off lens covers.

https://thyrm.com/product/clens-protector/

[Joelski]

Thanks, Jerry. Couldn't remember who made those.

[BoilerUp]

Thought I'd tag on to this old thread instead of starting a new one....

I finally added a G26 to the collection and am already wondering why it took me so long. I see why these are so popular and suspect this will become an EDC favorite when my wardrobe won't let me easily OWB a G17 w/ X300.

That said, it needs a light and I'm seeing some good prices on Streamlight TLR-6 lights or light/laser combos and that setup seems supported by several holster makes. I don't run lasers on any pistols but am considering spending the extra $40 to have the laser since it doesn't change the form factor.

Any opinions on whether I should save the $ and just stick with the light? Any negatives to say about the TLR or suggestions of better options? Viridian?

[UWone77]

Thought I'd tag on to this old thread instead of starting a new one....

I finally added a G26 to the collection and am already wondering why it took me so long. I see why these are so popular and suspect this will become an EDC favorite when my wardrobe won't let me easily OWB a G17 w/ X300.

That said, it needs a light and I'm seeing some good prices on Streamlight TLR-6 lights or light/laser combos and that setup seems supported by several holster makes. I don't run lasers on any pistols but am considering spending the extra $40 to have the laser since it doesn't change the form factor.

Any opinions on whether I should save the $ and just stick with the light? Any negatives to say about the TLR or suggestions of better options? Viridian?

I've got a bunch of TLR6's

I've got several attached to G43's/X's, S&W Shields, G26's, etc. About half have the laser.

Normally, I'm not a fan of lasers on pistols, but for a small charge, $40 like you said, you get a good de-escalation tool IMHO. We could argue/discuss that when your pistol comes out on a CCW situation, you're ready to fire.

However, as a LEO, I know if I end up smoking someone off-duty, even if it's not my duty issued pistol, I'm going to have to answer a lot of questions. We could spitball a dozen scenarios where someone maybe a threat where you pull your gun, but you're not quite ready to shoot. ie someone armed with a baseball bat, knife, blunt object, closing in on you, but not close enough to do damage quite yet. That laser may give you another tool to make the guy think twice about doing what he's doing without ending his life. I think one also needs to consider are you calm, cool, collected enough under stress, where you think about de-escalation, then deadly force, and if you de-escalate are you able to mentally transition?

I personally would not use the laser to aim, that takes way more training/reps, that I would rather devote to using a reddot. Your mileage may vary, but that's how I see TLR6's.

If you go with one, interested to hear your insights on it.

[BoilerUp]

Thank you, UW. Good things to consider. And, yes, while I think about and practice for scenarios where you have to shoot in a snap, even before fully presenting, I also frequently think about what I'd do in scenarios where I have more time. When it comes right down to it, I'd rather not take a life if I don't have to. If a red dot on the chest is enough to get someone to fully understand the gravity of the situation, then I also see how that could be useful. If I had to add extra bulk to the firearm for the laser, I probably wouldn't consider it, but the TLR package is the same either way and I don't have to use the laser if I don't like it as a "light only" mode is available.

DVor is having a deal so it was only $25 more for the laser, $85 total, plus I had 10 Dvor bucks to spend, so I ordered it. Now I just need sights and holster for the 26 and I'll be set. I think I might actually try an Appendix set up for this given its size, so maybe the Crossbreed LDS, which can accommodate the TLR.

[alamo5000]

I am by no means a gunfighter by any measure but another thing to consider is the manual of arms. In my quest for knowledge I handled lots of things and my conclusion is the laser light combos are way too fiddly for my tastes. I want something with a big "Easy Button" on it. All that click once for light and twice for laser stuff quickly turned me off on it just for that reason alone.

As always I do try to learn as much as I can before I start putting money into things and I can safely say I am not a fan of lasers on pistols, or really anything that I would personally be involved with. There isn't a scenario where I would use a laser for pretty much anything. That said if/when I get into the NV world that might change, but for EDC on a pistol, nope.

Even if the thing comes with both I personally would pass simply because of the manual of arms involved. Now throw in a super stressful situation and there is more fiddling around with buttons than I would like. It just being there is a 'no' in my book.

[BoilerUp]

I am by no means a gunfighter by any measure but another thing to consider is the manual of arms. In my quest for knowledge I handled lots of things and my conclusion is the laser light combos are way too fiddly for my tastes. I want something with a big "Easy Button" on it. All that click once for light and twice for laser stuff quickly turned me off on it just for that reason alone.

As always I do try to learn as much as I can before I start putting money into things and I can safely say I am not a fan of lasers on pistols, or really anything that I would personally be involved with. There isn't a scenario where I would use a laser for pretty much anything. That said if/when I get into the NV world that might change, but for EDC on a pistol, nope.

Even if the thing comes with both I personally would pass simply because of the manual of arms involved. Now throw in a super stressful situation and there is more fiddling around with buttons than I would like. It just being there is a 'no' in my book.

That is actually pretty well aligned with my starting position here, but given the low incremental cost and no impact on weight / handling, I thought I'd go ahead and try it out. We'll see.

[Default.mp3]

I don't see an issue with the switchology. Just keep it on light/laser at all times; I cannot see any reason to have only one or the other on, outside of administrative testing. I have been using a laser before I ever got an RDS, and IME, the two complement each other; for example, you can use the laser as an index point to help find the red dot when in unorthodox shooting positions where your index is weak. The laser is also faster on target than an RDS simply because you can be sloppier with the draw and still find it. It is also great for stuff like SotM, or dry practicing your index for retention shooting.

For me, a laser is a must on any handgun, even if it gets me constant questions on it's legality in USPSA (I don't know how many times I've been hassled about it, despite being in open).

[BoilerUp]

Back to this topic, but this time I'm looking for thoughts on WML for a Glock 19 for EDC on the appendix. Crossbreed is having a sale so I want to pick up a LDS for a 19. I was about to order for X-300, but I thought for appendix I should consider a shorter light with the TLR7 being the leading contender. Anyone want to argue otherwise? Maybe the XC1?

BTW, I'm happy with the TLR6 on the 26. As a long time "Glock guy", I'm surprised it took me so long to pick up a 26. It's grown on me quickly and while I was flirting with the 365XL she really hasn't left the house much since the 26 showed up. And now that I've finally put the RMR on the 19 I want to get her out more but in this neck of the woods it gets dark really early after we drop DST so I want a WML for EDC

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-nWW7XGJ/0/e6c29199/XL/i-nWW7XGJ-XL.jpg

[UWone77]

TLR7 is a winner.

Honestly, I've had more issues with X300's than I have with any Streamlights.

[Joelski]

XC01. Boom.

8076

I'm 6'-3" and #200 and my 19 in an AIWB holster feels huge!

8077

[BoilerUp]

Ha! Figures I'd get competing advice. Thank you, both. I ordered a holster to fit the TRL-7 as the price point is a lot easier to accept.

[BoilerUp]

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-5P325Fk/1/15b8ec3a/X2/i-5P325Fk-X2.jpg

[alamo5000]

Here is a follow on question. It's been a while since I put a light on my EDC. I am running a Surefire XSC on a 365XL.

I have no complaints about any of it but I'm just wondering opinions on why that particular light hasn't caught on like I thought it would.

To this day I don't know of very many companies that even make holsters for that light. Obviously there are holsters out there from small manufacturers because I have one, but it's not a popular thing to make apparently. This leads me to think that the light itself is not that popular.

Just curious if anyone has any opinions on this or not.

[BoilerUp]

I have no complaints about any of it but I'm just wondering opinions on why that particular light hasn't caught on like I thought it would.

Probably has something to do with being three to four times the cost of the competition who also has a pretty good reputation.

It would be an interesting business case study in supply and demand to see if Surefire would actually make more money if they cut their prices in half.

[Joelski]

Cost of a leading competitor is certainly the number one reason, and I'd also think that lead times across the industry are impacting production of newer designs as well. Between staffing issues that everybody seems to have, plus a high demand for existing product, it's got to be hard to get new items to market. A quick look at custom makers shows a lead time of 6-8 months and longer, so between qualified craftsmen for custom makers, it's tough to get people to fill existing orders.

[alamo5000]

Ok, I have a follow up question for you guys. On my P226 I have a SF 300 light. I am however looking at something new to me that I didn't know existed before.

I don't really have a fluid way of light activation, or rather I'm kind of reaching around to turn it on or whatever. I guess my hands are not gorilla hands so that light and gun kind of present that smallish issue.

I know surefire makes those grip switches but I'm not completely sold on that idea.

What I did learn about though were some aftermarket parts that could work for me. I think the company name is Philster. They make a direct replacement that has longer protrusions that could help me not have to move my hand around as much for light activation.

Just wondering if anyone has ever used that Philster switch or has anything else on the overall topic.

They are only like $30 so I'm tempted to try it out.

[alamo5000]

I found this video and Aaron is a trusted source so I went ahead and bought a set.

https://youtu.be/j-ANIo4xDxU

[BoilerUp]

https://media.tenor.com/e0-yg-9QLr8AAAAC/austin-powers-small-hands.gif

[alamo5000]

Fake news!
8089

[alamo5000]

I went back and re-read my post and a little more info will add context.

With my trigger finger I can reach the switch no problem. That said I am trying to activate the light with my support hand instead. As it sits now I have to break my grip just a little to hit the support side button. Either that or I have to alter my grip slightly to make it work.

So this begs the question, how does everyone prefer to activate their pistol lights? Which hand, which finger etc? I am trying to set it up so that I can activate it with my support thumb without breaking my grip so much. I might be way off base though so please let me know.

I am thinking the new paddle(s) will help with that. Depending on what I see when they arrive I might just start out by replacing one side and see if that helps.

[BoilerUp]

Support hand. I just drop my thumb down.

[Default.mp3]

DG switch. Super intuitive, no fiddling around with switchology, very easy to use even when doing SHO/WHO. Light NDs are not an issue IMO for most civilian applications, and not an issue for me personally either, both due to extensive practice along with the fact that I use the X400UH so I have a lock-out option if needed. An argument might be made that it can compromise the grip a little, I suppose.

You could also try these if you wanted to: https://emissarydevelopment.com/product/paddle-shifter-kit-for-surefire-x300/

[Joelski]

Support hand. I just drop my thumb down.

This.

[alamo5000]

I got the new paddles but I haven't had the chance to install them yet. I will keep you informed as to my opinions on the process as well as the product.

The paddles that Default.mp3 put a link to looks interesting but they are out of stock and said they have a new design being released early next year.

On a totally different topic I wonder what everyone thinks of putting a little light on my new P322? I know it's only a .22 but being out in the country it can be very useful. What are some inexpensive lights that you can recommend? I don't need something insane.

I haven't fully decided on doing that yet, but I am looking at it if I can find something ok that won't break the bank.

[Joelski]

https://www.olightstore.com/baldr-s.html

Sooch gives it a thumbs up. It even has a little laser. If you're out at night and jump a mountain lion, you can distract it by playing "Chase the dot". [:D]

[alamo5000]

https://www.olightstore.com/baldr-s.html

Sooch gives it a thumbs up. It even has a little laser. If you're out at night and jump a mountain lion, you can distract it by playing "Chase the dot". [:D]

Thanks! This is by far not a priority but getting a light for that pistol is definitely something I could see myself doing. Typically I don't ever shoot at night just because I don't want to be an asshole to the neighborhood that said something really really quiet wouldn't be a problem.

[alamo5000]

I ended up getting a Streamlight TLR7A. It was like $125 to the door.

I picked it because it seems to have a good reputation and because the function of it works similar to my other lights.

Other than that the rest were relatively small things, but I didn't want something huge.

[UWone77]

Speaking of TLR7A's.... pretty good deal at AU for $115

https://armsunlimited.com/streamlight-tlr-7a-flex-500-lumen-handgun-light/

[alamo5000]

Speaking of TLR7A's.... pretty good deal at AU for $115

https://armsunlimited.com/streamlight-tlr-7a-flex-500-lumen-handgun-light/

That is a good deal. I bought mine from gunzone deals, which also had them on sale. All in including shipping to the door it was $125... I don't know if AU charges tax or not, but that could make the difference. Even if they don't it's less than $5 total between them and what I paid.

Anyway I figured that is a pretty good light that has a lot of vetting already done. Also the controls are not that different from what I use now on other guns so it could be a training tool. If I go out blasting away all night with a unsuppressed handgun my neighbors would hate me. If I go out and do that with a suppressed 22, they won't even know. So in theory it opens up to a bit of low light or no light training, which I have never done before.

[alamo5000]

I just got my TLR7A and first impressions are... WOW. I REALLY like it. I am very tempted to purchase a TLR-7 Sub for my carry gun. Two things immediately stand out:

It is a lot more bright and the switches on the light feel totally different than the XSC. The switches (to me) feel almost mushy on the XSC when compared to the Streamlight. The TLR-7A's switches seem a lot more...'tactile' (I guess that's the right word for it). I like the positive feel it has to it.

Anyway I just opened it up about 30 minutes ago, but I will take them outside and compare beams and other stuff when I get the chance.

If it didn't mean buying ANOTHER new holster I might switch over. I still might do it just to have options, but we shall see how I feel after the new wears off of this one.

In looking at the specs, the SUB is approximately .57 inches longer than the XSC. The XSC's bezzle sits slightly behind the muzzle of a 365XL, but the SUB will sit right around 1/2 inch beyond the muzzle.

Anyway it will be interesting to do some comparisons for sure. I really like those switches though.

[BoilerUp]

Slightly off topic, but I need / want a weapon light for my SPEAR LT. I typically go to Streamlight for value but I want a peanut butter light to match the SPEAR and Streamlight is foolishly missing that market. Any experience with the OLight Odin Mini 1250? It seems comparable to the Streamlight.

[Joelski]

C'mon, man! You spent a shitpile of moolah on that Spear. At least put an Arisaka on it!

[BoilerUp]

well, that's a good idea since they also make a specific mount for the SPEAR.

OLIGHT that bad?

[TheRifleman]

Wouldn't an Olight require a DD Form 1 though? [BD]

Get a CD Rein 2.0 Micro. It's incredible and has all the fixings one would need without having to order everything else.

https://www.clouddefensive.com/product/rein-2-0/