New guy looking for advice on his first build

[Emilio84]

Hey everyone... new guy here . I stumbled across this site and it has been amazing when it comes to information gathering.[adore] I have wanted an AR for quite some time now and after my friend built his a couple weeks ago I figured I'd give it a go. My build list is below and any advice would be great!

Lower - Mega Machine Gator- Received
Upper - Mega machine w/ M4 cuts- Received
Charging Handle - BCM Gunfighter Mod 4 - Received
LPK - DPMS with Bill Springfield 4lb trigger job - Received
Grip - Magpul MIAD Full Kit - Received
Stock - ARFX ACE Entry Stock - Ordered
Buffer/Spring - JSE Surplus Carbine Spring and Buffer - Ordered
Barrel - Daniel Defense 16" Mid, CHF, 1:7 twist - Received
Gastube - Midlength - Received
Gasblock - YHM Low Profile Block - Received
Rail System - Daniel Defense 12" Lite Rail - Received
BUIS - Troy Battle Sights (M4 Style Front Sight) - Ordered
BCG - BCM Complete Auto BCG - Received
Compensator -PWS FSC556 - Received
Misc - Magpul BAD
Misc - KNS Mod 2 Anti Rotation Pins - Received
Misc - Molon Labe Spartan Helmet Engraved Dust Cover - Received
Misc - DPMS 1" stock extension
Misc - Daniel Defense Lite Rail Barrel Nut Wrench - Received
Misc - 1" Buttstock Pad - Received
Misc - Shop Service (ADCO to Dimple Barrel and Pin Comp) - Sent
Misc - Rail Covers (prolly going with Magpul XTM or Tango Down)
Misc - Sling + Adaptors - Gear Sector?

Hard Case -
Range Bag -
Eye Protection -
Hearing Protection - Peltor Sport Tactical
Lock Box - ?

[Emilio84]

Anyone?

[Gator]

Youre pretty much GTG fromwhat I see on your list. As for the hammer forged barrel, it's subjective. from a practical standpoint, are you going to be shooting quite a bit? classes and all? Would you realistically benefit from its features? If so then it may be the route to go but then again, the standard ones are GTG too for the above applications.
Rail length will depend on shooting style, IMHO, placement preferences of lights, grips etc... Some need it, and some dont necessarily. Since you already have a low pro GB, I would suggest going no shorter than a 10". That way you'll have more room to find what works for you and also give you a longer sight radius.
If I may ask, why that stock though? No experience with it personally so I cant say it is or isnt good but since this is your first build, I would get a good adjustable stock. That way you have 5 - 6 positions to choose from to find what works for you.
Judging from your current choice, may I assume want something slim and solid? The Magpul CTR should work perfectly. Slim and locks up solid with its friction lock feature. Also comes a rubber butt pad which I also see on your original option.
Vltor also offers very good stocks--ones what would allow for both a slim or wider cheek weld config.

[Emilio84]

Thanks for the info. Just a bit more info on what I am looking to achieve with this rifle. It will not be a HD or Duty weapon. I am a civi so primary use is range time and hopefully a couple carbine classes.

In terms of the amount of shooting I am doing.. well I don't know yet. What I was really asking was if there would be a tangible detectable difference on my end. On a build like this $70 to upgrade my barrel isn't going to blow my budget... at the same time though I'd rather not get to that point of diminishing returns where i am paying hundreds of dollars for tiny differences in material/construction.

For hand guard length I originally was thinking 11" but since there is no cost increase started considering the 12" for the reasons you mentioned above (sight radius and mounting options). With the FSC being a bit longer I'm hoping it'll look good.


And as for why I am picking that stock it really boils down to NYS laws. The NY AWB is still in effect and because of this I am required to buy a fixed stock. Now, I could pin a collapsible but I'll be honest and say that I am just not comfortable with that.

[SDDuc996]

Your list looks good considering your local laws. (Personally I'd move!)

If you're going with a midlength, I'd go with the 12" LaRue and cover the gas block. Just my opinion.

Are you doing the build yourself? Fairly easy and straightforward as long as you have the (correct) tools and know how. Tools like the barrel wrench, and front take down pin install/removal tool, and know how like using the correct spring behind the plunger for your bolt release. Use the wrong one and you'll have to drill the plunger out. Leave the spring out from underneath the disconnector and you'll have an inadvertent/intermittent (unreliable) auto.

Without a doubt it's fun, easy, and you can say you built that rifle. Whatever you can't do, hopefully your local gunsmith can. Remember some parts will be under spring tension and having extra springs, plungers, pins are always a good thing.

Have fun, don't put an eye out, and don't forget to post pics.

If you have any problems, PM me. I am on the other side of the world, (Afghanistan) so it may be a few hours before I can respond.

[Gator]

Oh ok, now that makes sense. Sorry, about that... I completely overlooked the fact you were from NY.
Just curious, how short can you go with regards to stocks? Does it have anything to do with your rifles OAL? or is it a separate deal?

About your barrel, if it were me in your case then I would just go ahead and get the HF one. Value for money is good currently (as price is lower than usual). but to go back on point, hammer forging seems to be a more precise method from what I understand which in turn should generally mean a more accurate barrel. Also, being a more precise method, it can result in more accurate barrels if intended to(tapered bores). I personally have no experience with one yet so cannot attest as to whether or not it is in fact more accurate generally speaking and minus the tapered bore feature.
Check out this link. http://technology.calumet.purdue.edu/met/higley/Precision%20Shooting%20Magazine%20-%20November-%202005%20%28Vol_%2053%20-%20No_%207%29.htm

[Emilio84]

SDDuc996 - Hah! I'd move to a free state if I could but I'm tied down with work for now. One day I'll move back to a state that trusts me to have a real evil black rifle ;)

- 12" rail seems like the way to go based upon the advice I keep getting on this build.

- I will be doing the build myself. I'm an engineer by trade so I should be able to figure it out but expect about 1000000000 questions throughout the build. I will definitely post lots of pictures though so that should make up for the questions.

- Thanks for the info and, considering your current location, for protecting my few remaining rights. Keep your head on a swivel!


Gator - For the stock I can go as short as I want as far as I know. I think the law is similar to the rest of the country (min 16" barrel and 26" OAL) but I have to double check.

These are my current barrel choices:

BCM Std Barrel

http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/BCM-16-Mid-Length-Barrel-Stripped-p/bcm-brl-s-mid-16%20std.htm

BCM Cold Hammer Forged

http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/BCM-BFH-16-Mid-Length-Barrel-Stripped-p/bcm-brl-s-mid-16%20bfh.htm

BCM 1:8 SS410 Barrel (same price as CHF barrel.. heavier?)

http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/BCM-16-Recce-SS410-Barrel-with-Mid-Length-Gas-p/bcm%20ss410%2016-8.htm

Daniel Defense Hammer Forged

http://www.pkfirearms.com/content/1/20/121/162

http://www.danieldefense.com/?page=shop/detail&product_id=154

Only concern with the DD barrel is the PK site says midlength but the DD site says m4 profile (carbine gas system?)...

[Gator]

Ya, Ive heard of the DD middy but have yet to see it on their site. You could try emailing them. They're quick to respond to customer questions.
Personally, I wouldnt go the stainless route. A bit more tedious to maintain I hear.
Have you looked into Centurion Arms? Hammer forged as well, with all the proper testing and all plus a tapered bore.
Oh ok, but you cant have an adjustable stock regardless of being within the legal OAL?
I know youre not too keen on having it pinned but the Vltor Emod appears to be quite long and you may be legally safe with it pinned at closed position. Just a thought.
As for your assembly process, feel free to ask. Im sure a handful of the guys here can do it in their sleep and will have loads of info for you.
As for me, Ill help out as best as I can. Dig up info here and there should you need something. Just let me know.

SDDuc996 -- Stay safe. I know it's not my thread but it's good to see a member willing to help even from all the way there.

[SDDuc996]

Ya, Ive heard of the DD middy but have yet to see it on their site. You could try emailing them. They're quick to respond to customer questions.
Personally, I wouldnt go the stainless route. A bit more tedious to maintain I hear.
Have you looked into Centurion Arms? Hammer forged as well, with all the proper testing and all plus a tapered bore.
Oh ok, but you cant have an adjustable stock regardless of being within the legal OAL?
I know youre not too keen on having it pinned but the Vltor Emod appears to be quite long and you may be legally safe with it pinned at closed position. Just a thought.
As for your assembly process, feel free to ask. Im sure a handful of the guys here can do it in their sleep and will have loads of info for you.
As for me, Ill help out as best as I can. Dig up info here and there should you need something. Just let me know.

SDDuc996 -- Stay safe. I know it's not my thread but it's good to see a member willing to help even from all the way there.

Thanks guys. Always willing to help people learn about guns/gun safety.
As long as they're not total douchers that is.

Like Gator said email or call DD. They're making their own barrels now and I really liked their operation when I visited them. Great bunch of guys.

Make sure you buy the right tools for the job before hand so you're not waiting for one to show up. Barrel/Stock wrench is one of those.

On another note, just shot the 13" SCAR H at the range the other day with the ODA. Not too bad. Still not a SCAR fan though.

Good luck on your build bro.

[tac40]

Go with Oakley eyeware-they offer prescription eyeware, hard case-you're spending alot of money, get a good sling and use BCM charging handle #4-medium. Sounds good, get plenty of ammo and have fun, take some carbine courses

[Stickman]

Go with Oakley eyeware, hard case-you're spending alot of money, get a good sling and use BCM charging handle #4-medium. Sounds good, get plenty of ammo and have fun, take some carbine courses


Good eye wear and hearing protection is a must, and is well worth mentioning. WeaponEvolution.com and Military Times are starting a review of new eyewear, but its a project that is going to take months to complete. I'll post more info about it in its own thread.

[niner]

Just a note, I picked up a 16" DD mid length from BCM not too long ago, it was hammer forged, chromolined everything I wanted in a bbl. I think BCM pinned the front sight with the gas tube on it though (maybe even came from DD this way), which again is what I wanted. When I got mine, BCM also had the stripped DD midlength bbls also.

I am still piecing mine together so I cannot say how it shoots yet :(, there is a gunshow this weekend so I hope to pick up what I need to finish it off.

[missiontrails]

That is of course a decent enough barrel. However, if you want to add some uniqueness and durability, look at the Centurion barrels (Noveske N4), Rainier sometimes has them, and there is a guy on AR15.com that had a few new ones for sale. The rail- I would strongly consider the DD Lite over the Larue.
I like the MEGA uppers and lowers, they are machined well, and have a good Teflon finish. If you look around, you can sometimes find upper/lower matched sets in the forged models also.

[Devilphish]

Good eye wear and hearing protection is a must, and is well worth mentioning. WeaponEvolution.com and Military Times are starting a review of new eyewear, but its a project that is going to take months to complete. I'll post more info about it in its own thread.

Ooh, I look forward to this review being a full-time eye wear user.

emilio - looks like a good start and you're certainly in the right place for good opinions!

[SDDuc996]

That is of course a decent enough barrel. However, if you want to add some uniqueness and durability, look at the Centurion barrels (Noveske N4), Rainier sometimes has them, and there is a guy on AR15.com that had a few new ones for sale. The rail- I would strongly consider the DD Lite over the Larue.
I like the MEGA uppers and lowers, they are machined well, and have a good Teflon finish. If you look around, you can sometimes find upper/lower matched sets in the forged models also.

+1 on the DD Lite. A bit more expensive, but I love the way they lock up and feel, not to mention the continuous top rail. I'm a fan of DD products and believe their rails to be one of the best.

[Emilio84]

Gator - Centurion looks nice. The issue is that this build started with the $169 version of the DD m4 barrel (on sale at bcm) to the $230 BCM midlength.. to the $299 BCM CHF... then to the DD CHF for around the same price. I may honestly just go back to the std BCM midlength barrel as that might just be the right mix between cost and performance for me. Still undecided though.

SDDuc996 - I'll definitely be giving DD a call about their barrels.

Stickman - Any specifc reccomendations for eye and ears for a guy who already wears glasses? I have an astigmatism though so I can't always get lenses made for frames with high amounts of curve to the lens. Budget for ear protection is ~100 or less for active electronic muffs if possible.


As for the rail system I might have to give DD another look. The reason I liked larue's rails is the mounting system not allowing the barrel nut to be loosened by any torquing of the rail by a VFG or other attachment. One thing to consider for this build is that once the FH is pinned on the barrel nut and gas block will be pretty much on the barrel forever so I am trying to make predict my needs down the line and also make sure every part of the upper (gb/area under rails/barrel nut area) is accessible without the removal of the flash hider/gas block.

[Gator]

In that case, you should definitely give DD a look. Their FF rails mount and dismount fairly easily which would allow for easier maintenance. They even have 2pc Freefloats to offer with 3 different mounting options. Mounting is solid too, esp on their Lite and RIS II rails, as they have their own proprietary anti-rotational systems.
That said, I recommend the M4A1 RIS II. Long enough for your needs , is 2 pc and probably the most solid mounting system amog all their rails from what I can see off their website. -- it has locking nubs at the rear of the mounting ring which prevent rotation on top of the protruding screws. -- someone please correct me if this feature is also offered on Lite Rails.
https://www.danieldefense.com/?page=shop/detail&product_id=17

[Emilio84]

Whats the difference between the RIS II rail and their Lite Rails? The only thing called out for the RIS system is the M203 mounting it also appears to be 2 piece. Is there a reason (other than ease of install/removal) that I would want a 2 piece system? All conventional wisdom tells me that a single piece system will weigh less and be more rigid.

[SDDuc996]

Gator, the RIS rails lock up the same as the Lite Rails. SOLID.

Brent M from DD gave me one of the versions we use on our 10" MK18 uppers. It's so nice.

Emilio, that's pretty much the main reason for the RIS II's design. For installation of a 203. They're nice rails to be sure. In fact, I'm sure your gun would look cool as hell with one on there. Also, you don't have to worry about them coming loose.

Did I mention they are SOLID?

As for the difference in the weight of the two, you're looking at maybe 2-3oz.
Either way you'll be happy with Daniel Defense.

[Emilio84]

SDDuc996 - So both rails are 1 piece? Either way I am most likely going with the 12in DD Lite rails. BCM carries them for $332 a set which is only $33 more than the Larue 12 and I am definitely sold on the continuous rail feature (i will eventually be mounting an optic) and they to be very popular.


EDIT - First post has been edited to reflect changes. I will be posting pictures of parts as they roll in.

[SDDuc996]

No the Lite rail is one piece. (Except for the locking ring that you'll have to mount behind their barrel nut.) The rail itself is oe piece.

The RIS II is two piece. Loosen the screws and pull the bottom off for mounting a 203.

Though the RIS is 2 piece to the 1 piece Lite rail, the difference is still a few ounces.

[Emilio84]

Gotcha, that makes more sense now. I think I am going to stick with the lite though as I am really not a huge fan of the FDE anodizing, will never be mounting a 203, and the Lite is $47 cheaper.

[4SRecon]

Oh ok, now that makes sense. Sorry, about that... I completely overlooked the fact you were from NY.
Just curious, how short can you go with regards to stocks? Does it have anything to do with your rifles OAL? or is it a separate deal?[/url]

In new york, it's against the law to have a colapsable stock. although you can pin the stock to any length desired. the OAL must be at least 32 inches (don't quote me, not 100% sure).

On my old AR setup, I had an ACE Carbine FX stock that didnt collapse- but it was the length of a CTR at posistion 1. As long as your barrel is a total of 16" and has an OAL of 32+inches, everything is law abiding.

[Emilio84]

In new york, it's against the law to have a colapsable stock. although you can pin the stock to any length desired. the OAL must be at least 32 inches (don't quote me, not 100% sure).

On my old AR setup, I had an ACE Carbine FX stock that didnt collapse- but it was the length of a CTR at posistion 1. As long as your barrel is a total of 16" and has an OAL of 32+inches, everything is law abiding.

How tall are you? Did you ever think of going shorter than the ACE stock?

[Gator]

GTG with either rail, IMHO. I too am not a huge fan of the FDE color but the RIS II, technically and functionally speaking is just superb.
We're about the same height. That said, stock length depends quite a bit on shooting style. While I personally like having my CTR on the first position out, practically nose to CH, I know a couple of folks my size who like theirs all the way out if not just a slot or 2 from it, as well as a few guys much larger than myslef who like theirs in the same position as mine.
Again, subjective to what works for you. You may want to try one at different positions if that's at all possible, just to see what works best for you.

[4SRecon]

How tall are you? Did you ever think of going shorter than the ACE stock?

I'm 6ft tall, and opted to go with the rubber pad ACE LTD offers as an option to attach to the butt of the stock. It gives you about an inch and a half to play with and also gives your stock a better sense of comfort (PHO). Your butt stock can't get any shorter than your buffer tube, so the answer to your question is no. I don't see any logical explanation for being that close to an optic or your iron's in the first place... and it doesn't seem to beneficial in any way.

With a collapsable stock at position 1 (completely collapsed) the stock is sitting flush with the back of the buffer tube. The ACE LTD ARFX stock is constantly in that position. It is within State/Federal Reg's installed on an AR15.

Here is a pic of the stock (rubber butt pad not pictured)

http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/ad119/4SRecon/ACELTDARFX.jpg

And I recant what I posted eearlier. I should have stated: Collapseable butt stocks are illegal to own on a shoulder fired rifle in New York with the exception of LEO/MIL.

[Gator]

Not to hijack the thread or anything... I just want to clarify NY state laws on stocks... Can you have a collapsible stock pinned to make it legal or does the whole system have to be non-adjustable to begin with?
THe reason I ask is because I figured, rather than having it pinned (again, if allowed at all), you could take out the horizontal pin that allows the lever on the CTR to engage the spring for adjusting. I tried to figure it out as best I could and it appears to be more difficult to put it back in than to push out a pin to prevent adjustment. Whether or not it's legal for states that require adjustable stock pinning is an entirely different thing.
Just a thought that popped into my mind.

[4SRecon]

Not to hijack the thread or anything... I just want to clarify NY state laws on stocks... Can you have a collapsible stock pinned to make it legal or does the whole system have to be non-adjustable to begin with?
THe reason I ask is because I figured, rather than having it pinned (again, if allowed at all), you could take out the horizontal pin that allows the lever on the CTR to engage the spring for adjusting. I tried to figure it out as best I could and it appears to be more difficult to put it back in than to push out a pin to prevent adjustment. Whether or not it's legal for states that require adjustable stock pinning is an entirely different thing.
Just a thought that popped into my mind.

PM sent, I don't want to go off topic either.

[Emilio84]

Here is a pic of the stock (rubber butt pad not pictured)

http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/ad119/4SRecon/ACELTDARFX.jpg




That a full size ACE or the Entry length?

[4SRecon]

That a full size ACE or the Entry length?

ACE LTD. ARFX Entry

[Emilio84]

ACE LTD. ARFX Entry

Yeah, makes sense now. I originally thought you were running the std size Ace stock which is why I asked about going smaller. I think I'll go with the entry length as I can always extend it out with the longer 1" buttpad or a RRA stock extender.

My only hold up now is the barrel.... So many choices [bash]

[Emilio84]

Ok so I just ordered my ACE Entry Stock. If its too short I'll give a DPMS 1" stock extension a go. Here is a pic comparing the full length ACE vs the Entry length with 1" extension. All that combined with the possibility of using the 1" rubber butt pad if I need it (stock is .5") should give me a significant amount of adjustability.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v365/paintballny/ACE.jpg


Oh, and my lower got to my FFL today. I will be picking it up tomorrow after work or weds during my lunch break.

[Emilio84]

And since everyone loves pictures (excuse the quality... took it with my Blackberry) here is a pic of what I have accumulated so far..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v365/paintballny/IMG00222-20100201-2258.jpg

And before someone asks... yes.. I have 2 LPKs. One came from Bill Springfield with a trigger job and the other was from a friend. I traded some paintball stuff for the stuff he bought for an AR build he never finished (the mags, LPK, MIAD, and cleaning kit).

[Emilio84]

http://pkfirearms.com/content/1/20/121/162


Looks like I'm going with the Daniel Defense 16" Midlength CHF 1:7 barrel. For the price ($250) it looks like a great deal.

Opinions?

[Gator]

Yup! cant go wrong with DD IMHO. Looks like youre set. Enjoy your new toy and keep us posted.
And I agree, we all love pictures so if you could, post some of the completed build. [:D]

[4SRecon]

[pop]Can't go wrong with a DD Barrel, I think that was a great choice- post pic's of the finished build please!!

[Emilio84]

Ok... another ordered placed... this time with PKFirearms.com.

Got the barrel, gas tube, clp, and DD Lite Rail wrench...

Still need to call BCM to see which gasblock they reccomend then I'll place my order with them.

Also been going back and forth about optics. I know I want either an EOTech 512 or Aimpoint (haven't decided which) but that 400+ buys me a nice hardcase/range bag, ammo, and range time...

And... I want troys but have been considering MBUIS again... [bash]

[Gator]

Either Vltor or Larue will do. Pinned to ensure GB stability.
+1 on the range time and ammo but the hardcase is something nice to have but more of a want than a need IMHO.
You might want to wait a while, shoot, do research and see which optic option would suit you better.
From my personal experience, I like the Eotech's reticle over Aimpoints big dot but prefer Aimpont's battery life meaured in year vs. Eo's measured in hours. I dont care for Eo's 8 or 4 hour auto shut of but like the idea of direct mounting. I prefer Aimpoint's 1/3 vs. Eo's absolute co-witness. Lastly, in my case (owning a 511), prefer Aimpoint's battery choice over Eo's PITA N-type.
Again, at thre risk of sounding redundtant, I have a 511, and after a few rounds down range and a hunting trip or two... if I had the chance for a do over, I'd opt for a Micro T1 instead. I like the size, battery life and type, and co-witness. Again, all up to whatever suits your needs and preferences.
As for your BUIS option, I too am battling with the same options. I like the quick activation of the MBUS, primarily the thought of being able to simply click the front BUIS on with my thumb while shooting, if need, but I presonally feel more confident with Troy's choice of material.
I guess it boils down to a balance you can live with. Ensured durability vs. quicker deployment, to be specific IMHO.
Leaning towards Troy at the moment but not completely shutting off the idea of the new MBUS.

[Emilio84]

Either Vltor or Larue will do. Pinned to ensure GB stability.
+1 on the range time and ammo but the hardcase is something nice to have but more of a want than a need IMHO.
You might want to wait a while, shoot, do research and see which optic option would suit you better.
From my personal experience, I like the Eotech's reticle over Aimpoints big dot but prefer Aimpont's battery life meaured in year vs. Eo's measured in hours. I dont care for Eo's 8 or 4 hour auto shut of but like the idea of direct mounting. I prefer Aimpoint's 1/3 vs. Eo's absolute co-witness. Lastly, in my case (owning a 511), prefer Aimpoint's battery choice over Eo's PITA N-type.
Again, at thre risk of sounding redundtant, I have a 511, and after a few rounds down range and a hunting trip or two... if I had the chance for a do over, I'd opt for a Micro T1 instead. I like the size, battery life and type, and co-witness. Again, all up to whatever suits your needs and preferences.
As for your BUIS option, I too am battling with the same options. I like the quick activation of the MBUS, primarily the thought of being able to simply click the front BUIS on with my thumb while shooting, if need, but I presonally feel more confident with Troy's choice of material.
I guess it boils down to a balance you can live with. Ensured durability vs. quicker deployment, to be specific IMHO.
Leaning towards Troy at the moment but not completely shutting off the idea of the new MBUS.


I really want to try the Micro T1. The small size and killer battery life makes it sit pretty high on my list as well. Sadly I have yet to see anyone around me using one.

As for the hardcase.. in my situation part of the agreement for me having my weapons in the house was that they be under lock and key... so my choice is either a safe of sorts or a hardcase.

[Emilio84]

just placed the "big" order with Bravo Company USA...

DD 12" Lite Rail
Gunfighter Charging Handle
PWS FSC556
YHM Low Profile Gas Block
BCG
Spare Firing Pin
Spare Gas Rings
Magpul Followers
Mil-Comm TW25B Grease


I think my wallet just exploded! [BD]


Still need some other stuff but that'll come along as I put it all together.

[4SRecon]

Also been going back and forth about optics. I know I want either an EOTech 512 or Aimpoint (haven't decided which) but that 400+ buys me a nice hardcase/range bag, ammo, and range time...

And... I want troys but have been considering MBUIS again...

I would recommend getting used to your Irons before spending money on an optic... While learning, getting used to your setup you can get used to your Iron's while saving a few bucks for buying a nice optic down the line. I notice you've ordered alot of parts for your current build, and I know how pricey things can get, giving time for your wallet to recoupe and getting used to your weapon could be beneficial in terms of what direction you want to head in when your ready for the "Optics Department".

On the other hand, dont let anyone influence your purchasing power. Go with whatever you feel comfertable with. I'm simply stating that you might want to take your time in choosing an optic, after maybe testing out some different options. If you already have your heart set on something... By any means, purchase it- I would hate to see someone go through "Buyer's remorse".

There is a great "[B]Optic Selection Guide." in the "Product Guides" forum that Paulosantos put together that you might find helpful.

[Emilio84]

Yeah, I wasn't planning on buying an optic for a while anyway. Just kind of mulling over the options out loud.

I just cancelled my order with delton... they ace entry stock was backordered but they didn't list it as such on the site. I am gonna hold off on re-ordering it though as I know that once I get to assembling my rifle I'll need to order some small stuff so I'll just get it then. Plus, I still need to send my barrel off to get the compensator pinned and dimpled for my gas block so there is no real rush.

[Emilio84]

I borrowed my buddy's tools and put my lower together tonight. Went together as expected with no major issues. The selector is a bit tougher than expected to move from fire to safe (yes the hammer is cocked). Is this something that will smooth out as the rifle gets used?

And since EVERYONE loves pictures (even when they aren't from stickman) here are some from my build so far..


Cleaning/Lubing parts prior to install (Using EEOX for now.. couldn't find Breakfree CLP locally)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v365/paintballny/IMG_1837.jpg

protecting the lower while installing the most irritating roll pin ever (they really need to start using captive pins with setscrews instead of rollpins)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v365/paintballny/IMG_1840.jpg

installed damage free

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v365/paintballny/IMG_1841.jpg

almost done

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v365/paintballny/IMG_1843.jpg

Finished!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v365/paintballny/IMG_1844.jpg

And just so I have an idea of the final product (I really need to grab a few preban 30rd mags!)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v365/paintballny/IMG_1845.jpg

[Dutch]

Emilio84,

Looks good, get that feeling of pride when you got your lower together? Good on you. Mega makes some damn nice stuff it will serve you well, I have recommended Mega to many friends myself as well as what I have sitting around.

4Srecon is very correct in his opinion of getting your front and rear sights prior to an optic, I know it's not as cool but these will always be there when the batteries you just bought good dead.

Good luck and keep going.

Dutch

[Emilio84]

Dutch - It definitely does feel good to turn a pile of parts into something functional. I really am impressed with the Mega pieces. The fit and finish is fantastic and the teflon coating is very nice looking. I was originally going with their billet set but couldn't justify the cost increase nor the inability to use certain accesories (magpul BAD among other things).

As for front and rear irons I totally agree. I am not buying any form of optics until I feel proficient with irons.

[Emilio84]

Ok so doing the function check the other night on the lower everything went fine. One thing I did notice was that when I cocked the hammer (trigger not depressed) if I pushed the hammer past the initial catch point the hammer shelf would contact the disconnector. It wouldn't stick as if I had the trigger held down but it would click going down and back up to the catch point. I contacted Bill Springfield and he said he set it up this way as extra insurance against a double fire. While I take his word I am just curious how that tiny bit of contact does anything to prevent a double fire. Ideas?


Btw - the trigger pretravel is perfect.. no creep at all and a very crisp break.

[Eric]

Ok so doing the function check the other night on the lower everything went fine. One thing I did notice was that when I cocked the hammer (trigger not depressed) if I pushed the hammer past the initial catch point the hammer shelf would contact the disconnector. It wouldn't stick as if I had the trigger held down but it would click going down and back up to the catch point. I contacted Bill Springfield and he said he set it up this way as extra insurance against a double fire. While I take his word I am just curious how that tiny bit of contact does anything to prevent a double fire. Ideas?


Btw - the trigger pretravel is perfect.. no creep at all and a very crisp break.
Selector on fire, hold the trigger down, cock the hammer, very slowly ease the trigger forward (do not allow it to slam forward and strike the bolt catch!). Repeat several times. Does the hammer hold on the disconnector and then transfer to being held back by the trigger, or does the hammer go forward?

The trigger was modified by Bill Springfield?

[Emilio84]

Selector on fire, hold the trigger down, cock the hammer, very slowly ease the trigger forward (do not allow it to slam forward and strike the bolt catch!). Repeat several times. Does the hammer hold on the disconnector and then transfer to being held back by the trigger, or does the hammer go forward?

The trigger was modified by Bill Springfield?

The trigger was modified by Bill Springfield for a 4lb pull. When doing as you instructed it will hold on the disconnector then transfer to being held back by the trigger.

The contact I referred to is between the disconnector shelf on the hammer and the disconnector hook and it occurs when I cock the hammer and after the hammer catches the trigger I keep pressing down on the hammer.

Take a look at this video. I cock the hammer and then try to show you the clicking that occurs (or overlap as bill calls it) then do the function check.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HfzOU1lEUsY

[Emilio84]

Some more pictures... (new parts!)

Got my Barrel!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v365/paintballny/IMG_1854.jpg

Engraved Dust Cover

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v365/paintballny/IMG_1855.jpg

[Emilio84]

Put it an order with JSE Surplus this morning for an ACE Entry Length, carbine buffer, carbine buffer spring, and 1" buttpad. Should hopefully come in this week.

My order from BCM comes in tomorrow which is exciting. I'll be doing a dry fit of the parts and then I'm going to send the barrel, gas block, barrel nut, and compensator to Adco to get the FH pinned and the barrel dimpled for the gasblock.

[Emilio84]

Almost there! Got my big order from BCM today...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v365/paintballny/IMG_1860.jpg

BCG

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v365/paintballny/IMG_1862-1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v365/paintballny/IMG_1861.jpg

Gunfighter Charging Handle

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v365/paintballny/IMG_1863.jpg

LITE Rail

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v365/paintballny/IMG_1864.jpg

PWS FSC556

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v365/paintballny/IMG_1868.jpg

Test Fitting

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v365/paintballny/IMG_1872-1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v365/paintballny/IMG_1870.jpg



I placed my order for shop service in with ADCO and will be sending off my barrel, comp, gas block, and barrel nut tomorrow if we don't get hit too hard by the approaching storm.

[Stickman]

ADCO will take good care of you.

[Emilio84]

Yeah I have heard many good things about them.

On a side note I found troy battle sights (m4 style front sight) on ebay and with bing cashback they come out to $174.50 shipped. Seems like a good deal to me but I also registered at botachdefense.com and can buy a set of MBUIS for $62.50 before shipping. Opinions?


EDIT - Went with the M4 style troy sights. Got em off ebay (new) for $174.50 ($185 + $8 Shipping - $18.50 bing cashback).



Gonna run by the post office tomorrow during lunch to mail out my barrel/comp/gas block/barrel nut to ADCO.

[Emilio84]

Anyone know how many XTM rail covers it takes to cover a side of the DD 12.0 rail? 8 (2 sets)? Trying to figure out how many it would take to cover the bottom and sides of my rail. Also, anyone know how many xtm spots would be taken up by an AFG?

[Emilio84]

Just an update...

ADCO has shipped my barrel assembly along with a bolt dissasembly tool. I'll be grabbing some clymer headspace gauges as well so I can check my headspace once I get my rifle together.

I also received my stock... well kinda. I was shipped the wrong one so I'll be getting a replacement soon.

[Emilio84]

Got my barrel assembly in. Anyone know if the Daniel Defense barrel nuts are steel or AL? My barrel nut has a little finish scratched off from their wrench. I am really just worried about rust as it won't be visible once installed.

Ordered more stuff today... headspace gauges, front sight tool, buttstock extender (going to try it with my shorty to see if I like it.. if not I'll just sell it), and other small items.


At this point all I really need to pick up are rail covers, BAD, bag to carry my rifle and misc tools/equipment to the range, some sort of lockbox/safe for the house, and eye/ear protection.

After buying all that and ammo I am going to be done for a bit...

I will eventually be grabbing a sling and mounts from Gear Sector though... prolly as a birthday gift to myself.



Pic of barrel nut... AL or Steel?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v365/paintballny/IMG_1875.jpg

[Eric]

AL or Steel?
I don't have a direct answer, but if you have a magnet handy you can confirm what you have.

[Emilio84]

I don't have a direct answer, but if you have a magnet handy you can confirm what you have.

Magnet stuck to it so I guess its steel. After I install my barrel it I can hit it with some permablue and that should be fine for rust prevention (along with a wipedown of clp. That is unless someone comes along with a better solution. :confused:


ps - Peltor Sport Tactical Electronic Muffs, XTM Rail Covers, and B.A.D. ordered from Botach Defense!


All I need now is my softcase to take it to the range and a gun cabinet for home!

[Emilio84]

Touched up the barrel nut and threw her together the other day. And here she is:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v365/paintballny/done-b.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v365/paintballny/done-a.jpg

Going to try and get out to the range this weekend.

[hikeeba]

Woot! Very nice! Congrats on puttingit all together. I look forward to hearing howit shoots.

[michschi]

beautiful rifle man!

[Emilio84]

beautiful rifle man!

Thank you!



And a HUGE Thank You to everyone here. Without your help I'd still be deciding what to do and how to do it.


I took her to the range and ran some rounds through her this weekend. Only shot a bit over 100rnds but she chugged along nicely with no issues. I'll be heading to the range again this week to throw some more rounds through her and sight her in a bit better (didn't have a sandbag so I was shooting offhand while seated).

[Emilio84]

So I recently purchased an EOTECH 516 and i'm not exactly sure where the optimal mounting location is for the sight. I have it mounted as show below as it seems to help the weapon balance best but I am more concerned about quick acquisition of the reticule and any other benefits an alternate mounting location could offer. Suggestions? Comments?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v365/paintballny/925b2c2c.jpg