barrel break in?

[eldogg]

i bought a sabre defense stainless steel barrel. is there any break in procdures i should take? [noob]

[Jerry R]

The "standard" I use for match grade barrels designed for distance shooting is the following:

Shoot 1 round - clean the barrel
repeat 5 times
Shoot 3 rounds - clean the barrel
repeat 5 times
shoot 5 rounds - clean the barrel
repeat 5 times

On the multiple round sets, I let the barrel cool 2 minutes between shots.

Not sure if lapping in the barrel really helps, but did it on my Prairie Dog rifles and they are still shooting sub halfs after more than a few thousand rounds.

The 40XB-KS in .243 took two dogs off the same mound with consecutive shots at a laser measured 630 in Montana. That rifle still shoots in the point three range.

I have not done it with the AR's - but probably should have with the SPR using the Rainier Ultra-Match.

I don't know if it helps, but I do know it does not hurt. And, it does not take all that long to do.

[Wallace]

Do any of you guys fire lap your new barrels?

I know there are a few products for coating your own ammo, and also coarse to fine bullets you can get.

Or is this more to condition a used barrel?

[Eric]

Do any of you guys fire lap your new barrels?

I know there are a few products for coating your own ammo, and also coarse to fine bullets you can get.

Or is this more to condition a used barrel?
Not for my AR type rifles. The majority of mine are chrome lined, which require no break in.

[5pins]

Barrel break in procedure.
1. Load 30 magazine.
2. Chamber round.
3. Pull trigger.
4. Repeat step 3 until magazine is empty.

[Wallace]

Wail we are on the topic of Barrels< I need a little help with these two, as to which you guys would recommend. They look just about the same, how ever the Rainer arms site has a bit les info, and I have emailed them to no avail.

Perhaps some one is aware if saber barrels all come with a gas block, barrel nut, and tube. Also confused as to one being a .939 gas block seat and the other a .920. [bash]

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=657676

http://www.rainierarms.com/?page=shop/detail&product_id=1633

It is going on a side charging varmint rifle.

Any help would be appreciated.

[chase102798]

This is interesting:

http://yarchive.net/gun/barrel/break_in.html

I gave up on this time consuming exercise and I personally have not had a barrel (especially top quality ones) I felt that would have been more accurate for my needs had I followed a break in schedule. I just don't ride it hard for the first couple hundred...IMHO.

[ReconRanger]

So you guys break in at a public range? Last time I did that everyone was looking at me funny.

[chase102798]

Wallace,

I believe the Midway site is referring to the muzzle diameter of the barrel being .920". That particular barrel includes a gas block from sabre defence. .920 will not be the diameter of the area under the gas block, I'm sure it will also be .936". I believe these barrels are the same if you look at Sabre's website.

The Rainier website has an adjustable gas block from JP that fits your barrel. If it were me, for a varmint gun I would get the barrel from Rainier (I support Rainier any chance I get as they are excellent folks to deal with, although I can't say anything bad about midway either they are tops too) and the adjustable gas block from JP. It will run you 35 dollars more, but the JP unit is WAY better looking than the Sabre gas block and it clamps on the barrel which some of the competition shooters believe causes less stress on the barrel and may be more accurate (theories maybe, but sounds good). Also you will be able to turn the gas down a bit to taylor the gun to your best load. Really makes for a soft shooting gun to be able to see hits on little critters way out there. I have one on my 6.5 Grendel and it makes a difference definitely.

I use the Rainier 18" ultramatch barrel for my chuck hunting gun. It's made on a shilen blank, super accurate, and real easy to clean. It sounds short for a varmint gun, but it is light and handy to carry through the farm fields and out to 300, it's more than capable. More velocity in that 24" barrel, but I would say Shilen barrels would be considered a step up from Sabre barrels. If you are looking for a crowned muzzle, Midway has a 20" Shilen for $399.00 that would be sweet for Varmints and would really cut down on the weight. Plus they sell the JP gas blocks to fit it, I believe you would need a .750" one.

If you have any questions just email or call Rainier about the sabre barrel, they get back to you right away and are real nice to talk to.

[Wallace]

Thanks for the above, I have also noticed that these saber barrels do not come with a matched bolt and the ASA upper I will be using is only the BCG, sans a bolt.

Any one have any suggestions for a quality bolt, that will match up with the saber barrels nicely. Or any info that I should know before heading into the build.

[Ryo]

So you guys break in at a public range? Last time I did that everyone was looking at me funny.

When I did it at a indoor range, I used a bore snake. I really don't believe in the breaking method, but it couldn't hurt to swipe the bore snake in through once in 5-10 rounds.

[TehLlama]

I just ignorantly stuffed four magazines down the pipe. Switched to PPU 75gr HPBT - shot 3/4" groups. Cleaned it when I got back from the range. My CMMG 18" shoots better than I do, end of story.

I suspect this is more helpful in something intended to shoot high power, F class, or other long range uses for a high end barrel. For a mass produced chrome lined unit, it can't hurt, but I haven't heard horror stories from bypassing this process.