View Full Version : Need to go to rehab-

15 June 2010, 17:04
After a very hot and stinky day, one of my peeps brings me the following assortment of firearms because I am the gun nut or dude that knows about guns depending on who you ask.
These were in a house that flooded last Thursday. They had been in gun bags or cases of some sort. I don't think any of them were submerged, but they were not taken out of the cases/bags until Monday. Lots of rust.
The Citori is obviously messed up although the bore isn't too bad. The rifle is about as bad or worse and has some serious funk in the barrel. Water came out of the barrel when I took these pics. The revolver looks really bad and the cylinder is difficult to move. It was in a leather holster. The pistol seemed to have faired the best, and only has some slight surface spotting on the front of the slide.
So: any ideas on how to rehabilitate these? I'm going to take the wood off and hit everything with some CLP and punch the bores.














15 June 2010, 17:20
The first thing I would do is dissemble them as far down as you can. Then spray them down with some WD-40. Yes I said WD-40. I know it makes a bad gun lube but the WD stands for “water displacement” and the best ting you can do now is make sure the rusting has stopped.
The sigma is the only one that looks like it will not have to be sent off for rebluing. Take some CLP and rub it off with a clean cloth. If that doesn’t work than try some fine steel wool with CLP.

15 June 2010, 17:49
I've never dealt with this much damage. I've had an occassional dusting, but never this much. I was thinking about the WD40 for just the reason you said. Looks like I will be busy over the next few nights.
I don't work with wood much. Any ideas on what to do with that? It doesn't look like much of the wood was damaged too badly.

15 June 2010, 18:26
You could also try some Naval Jelly in the bores. It will remove the rust and maybe you can get an idea how badly pitted they are. Naval Jelly will also take off bluing so don’t use it on something you’re not going to have reblued. I don’t know much about wood other then letting it dry out and hope it doesn’t warp.

15 June 2010, 18:52
The shotgun has some minor pits in the larger rust areas. There is a "waterline" on the left side of the receiver where the finish is blackened. It appears to have been resting on the side in the case or whatever. I pretty much got the rust off it.
Now I need to figure out how to get the receiver out of the stock.

15 June 2010, 19:40
You got to take the recoil pad off, inside will be either a socket head or flat head screw and you need a LOOOOOOOOOOONG shank to get to it.

15 June 2010, 20:38
Ok, I was hoping that there was something with the trigger guard/lock lever that I would be able to pull/turn. I was afraid of that.
The forearm was very difficult to get back on after I cleaned it up. I'm afraid the wood may be warping.

15 June 2010, 23:34
More than likely it is, you may want to loosen the butt stock screw a little anyways in case it is warping too bad, to keep it from cracking. If you do this . . . DO NOT for get to tighten it before anyone fires it or you will be asking Browning for another stock. Remy's are notorious for splitting for that and I have seen it on these and A5's also. I hate seeing guns like that.

16 June 2010, 13:52
Soak it in a penetrating oil, and wrap it in plastic. If you can't wrap it, recoat with oil often.

16 June 2010, 16:16
Here's where I am currently. I'm going to work on them more tonight and probably into the weekend. I just wanted to stop the damage last night and try to turn it around.










16 June 2010, 20:57
this thread genuinely makes me sad

18 June 2010, 09:11
The bolt for the rifle came out pretty nice. Damned shame about the bore. What kind of rifle is it? Is it one that would be relatively easy to get a new barrel?

18 June 2010, 14:21
It's a Browning. A- Bolt maybe? I don't know how easy it would be to replace, I'm sure there are ways to do it. I've always stuck with 700s and 70s.