Do You Need An Armorer's Wrench?

[HogKiller]

Hey everyone. I'm hoping to get my Magpul UBR stock today or tomorrow and I was wondering if I really need an armorers wrench to remove a collapsible stock or if I can just use a pipe wrench or something.

[Paulo_Santos]

A pipe wrench may work. Or just lay the AR down on the side and try using a screwdriver and hit it with a hammer. You can also put a cloth at the end of the screwdriver so it won't damage the castle nut too much. But an Armorer's wrench does make it easier.

[zero7one]

Here is a link to a very good tutorial if you need any assistance...

http://www.weaponevolution.com/forum/showthread.php?71-Magpul-UBR-install-guide-and-pictorial-review

[Quib]

I am a strong believer in using the "right tool for the right job". You might get away with alternate methods using alternate tools, but using the right tool for the job makes things a lot easier with less hassle or chance for things to go wrong. Purchase the Armorer's Wrench, and I'm sure you'll find it useful to have down the road if you plan on more building or DIY work.

[Army Chief]

I am a strong believer in using the "right tool for the right job". You might get away with alternate methods using alternate tools, but using the right tool for the job makes things a lot easier with less hassle or chance for things to go wrong. Purchase the Armorer's Wrench, and I'm sure you'll find it useful to have down the road if you plan on more building or DIY work.

Absolutely.

If the Chinese are coming over The Great Wall, and you've got no other means of removing an old castle nut, the alternate method will get you back into the fight with your UBR in time to save the day, but you're not going to like what your receiver extension, castle nut, and (probably) receiver look like when you're finished. If you've never done this task before with the right tools, I'd lay the odds of jacking things up with the screwdriver method at about 50-50. If you've got a properly-staked/torqued nut on your hands, the news gets even worse.

Buy or borrow a stock wrench so you can feel good about your cool new UBR install when all is said and done.

AC

[Quib]

Buy or borrow a stock wrench so you can feel good about your cool new UBR install when all is said and done.

AC

Yes Sir,

There's a lot of satisfaction to be had in doing it yourself. There's even more to be had knowing the job was done right.

[Quib]

HogKiller,

If you are in need of an Armorer's Manual, just drop me an IM with email address.

[HogKiller]

I have a RRA, and I took a look at Stickman's UBR Installation Tutorial and he said that RRA uses a threadlocker, so I don't think I wanna try to take it off with something other than an Armorer's Wrench. Looks like I'll be taking a trip to the local gun store sometime this week. I'm also planning on doing a lot more builds once I get older, so I think buying an Armorer's Wrench right now would help out a lot in the long run. Do I need to buy one that has the hole in it for removing the castle nut?

[Quib]

Do I need to buy one that has the hole in it for removing the castle nut?

I have the DPMS Armorer's Wrench, which has the basics required of the typical wrench. There are wrenches out there that are designed with the sole purpose of removing and installing the castle nut, but a decent "multi-wrench" should serve you well.

[The-S]

You can remove the castle nut with a strap wrench if need be. On that note I am so happy I own the correct tools.

[HogKiller]

Alright, and would you recommend the DPMS wrench because I've read some reviews on it and lots of people said it was horrible and broke alot.

[The-S]

I broke a few big name wrenches and ended up with an nc star one that has been the best. Absolute best lol!

[Quib]

Alright, and would you recommend the DPMS wrench because I've read some reviews on it and lots of people said it was horrible and broke alot.

I've read similar reviews as well. And when someone breaks a hand tool, I have to ask myself, was the tool at fault? Or, was some of, if not all the fault, operator error?

I've worked with basic hand tools and specialty tools for the last 25+ years, have had the additional duty of being assigned to running an FAR Part 121 tool room and calibrated tool program and have seen plenty of high quality hand tools broken over the years by individuals who did not know when to stop, step back and reassess the situation. They expected the tool to do all the work for them, without having to put any further thought into the job.

When the tool failed, they failed to realize just why the tool broke and placed all the blame on what they considered to be a "faulty tool", never taking into account that because of some outside influence they pushed the tool beyond its design limits.

Now, I'm not a full time armorer re-barreling weapons all day long. But for the re-barreling and receiver extension R&R's I've done to date on my personal weapons, or builds I've completed for friends, the DPMS wrench has yet to fail me. And based off that experience, I would not hesitate to recommend it.

[Eric]

The RRA extension can be a PITA to remove, due to the use of thread-locker. This will likely require the use of a torch to heat up the compound, then a proper fitting wrench to remove the receiver extension nut. RRA does make a usable stamped wrench for about $6. I like the HammerHead (http://www.weaponevolution.com/forum/showthread.php?2217-HammerHead-Rifle-Tool) tool much better, especially for those folks that will use the tool on a regular basis.

[Quib]

The RRA extension can be a PITA to remove, due to the use of thread-locker. This will likely require the use of a torch to heat up the compound, then a proper fitting wrench to remove the receiver extension nut.

Thanks Eric, this is the perfect example of what I'm trying to get across above.

Someone purchases an armorer’s wrench, attempts to remove a castle nut not realizing that Loctite has been applied to the threads. When the nut doesn’t give, more than normal force is applied and the wrench breaks. The blame is then placed on the tool being “inferior”.

Before resorting to excessive force…stop. Consider the reasons why the nut will not budge, and go from there.

[The-S]

the tools that broke on me seemed to be out of spec

[HogKiller]

I doubt it would work as well and it would take a lot longer, but could I use a hair dryer to heat it up instead of a torch?

[Quib]

I doubt it would work as well and it would take a lot longer, but could I use a hair dryer to heat it up instead of a torch?

You could try, but I do not think a hair dryer will reach the temp you need (If we are talking about Red 271 Loctite).

You'll notice on the Hot Strength table the rate at which 271 breaks down as the temp is increased. Scroll down to the disassembly section below:

http://http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/271-en.pdf (http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/271-en.pdf)

[The-S]

a good hair dryer should work just fine.

[HogKiller]

Ok well I'm about to go pick up a wrench and try using a hair dryer. Hopefully it'll work.

[The-S]

get a wrench with a mil spec removal tool on it not the three prong kind

[HogKiller]

The store I went to didn't carry Armorers Wrenches. Any suggestions as to which one I should order online?

[HogKiller]

I think I'm gonna order the hammerhead tomorrow. I don't think I can wait another week to put the UBR on the rifle so I think I'm just gonna get it overnighted. What's the difference between the $30 and $100 hammerheads?

[Eric]

I think I'm gonna order the hammerhead tomorrow. I don't think I can wait another week to put the UBR on the rifle so I think I'm just gonna get it overnighted. What's the difference between the $30 and $100 hammerheads?
Titanium (big $$) vs Spring Steel. There isn't really a functional difference.