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BMR
2 December 2010, 00:59
I’m always looking for new and exciting ways to modify my weapons or other accessories. While recently talking with a shooting friend I was turned on to the use of a wood burning tool to add texture to any plastic part on my weapon. I was shown an AFG which had been textured and loved it. So simple and such a positive grip that I decided to try it for myself.

I picked up a “wood burning tool” from a local craft store for about $25. It basically comprised of a small soldering iron with interchangeable tips. The tips varied in shapes from blade, point, to the round toothed looking one I used for most of the pictured work.

http://zero7one.jalbum.net/BRM%20-%20Textured%20Grips/BMR_WOOD_BURNER_001.jpg

http://zero7one.jalbum.net/BRM%20-%20Textured%20Grips/BMR_WOOD_BURNER_002.jpg

I was a little apprehensive at first, mainly because I was taking a hot piece of metal to plastic components. My main worry was that the tool would actually burn through the plastic very easily and either compromises the integrity of the part or plain destroy it. I was pleased to find that in fact the tool I used merely seemed to redistribute a thin amount the molten plastic into the shape of the bit. Even while trying, I found it very difficult to melt through or dig any kind of hole into the parts I was modifying, my guess I the heat the tool generated was not enough to do so.

I used both pressing, and rolling motions in rows on some parts and found that rolling the bit (when using the round bit pictured below) created the best imprints for me. Using these motions in overlapping rows seemed to generate some clean looking impressions.

I found that melting the plastic would generate some gnarly and sharp points in on the plastic, depending on the amount of grip needed, a simple piece of sandpaper or sanding tool knocked down and smoothed out any unwanted rises.

To me it felt like this method generated a more positive grip than using grip tape, also you don’t have to worry about the tape wearing down or the use of solvents on it.

I have to say that I was very impressed with the ease and results of this technique and will be doing this to more parts in the future.

Thanks to Zero7One for the photo help!

BMR

Here are some of the accessories that I have modified:

Magpul MIAD Grip

http://zero7one.jalbum.net/BRM%20-%20Textured%20Grips/BMR_MIAD_TEXTURE_001.jpg

http://zero7one.jalbum.net/BRM%20-%20Textured%20Grips/BMR_MIAD_TEXTURE_002.jpg

http://zero7one.jalbum.net/BRM%20-%20Textured%20Grips/BMR_MIAD_TEXTURE_003.jpg

http://zero7one.jalbum.net/BRM%20-%20Textured%20Grips/BMR_MIAD_TEXTURE_004.jpg

http://zero7one.jalbum.net/BRM%20-%20Textured%20Grips/BMR_MIAD_TEXTURE_005.jpg

http://zero7one.jalbum.net/BRM%20-%20Textured%20Grips/BMR_MIAD_TEXTURE_006.jpg

http://zero7one.jalbum.net/BRM%20-%20Textured%20Grips/BMR_MIAD_TEXTURE_007.jpg

http://zero7one.jalbum.net/BRM%20-%20Textured%20Grips/BMR_MIAD_TEXTURE_008.jpg

http://zero7one.jalbum.net/BRM%20-%20Textured%20Grips/BMR_MIAD_TEXTURE_009.jpg

Standard A2 Grip

http://zero7one.jalbum.net/BRM%20-%20Textured%20Grips/BMR_A2_GRIP_TEXTURE_001.jpg

http://zero7one.jalbum.net/BRM%20-%20Textured%20Grips/BMR_A2_GRIP_TEXTURE_002.jpg

http://zero7one.jalbum.net/BRM%20-%20Textured%20Grips/BMR_A2_GRIP_TEXTURE_003.jpg

http://zero7one.jalbum.net/BRM%20-%20Textured%20Grips/BMR_A2_GRIP_TEXTURE_004.jpg

Magpul AFG

http://zero7one.jalbum.net/BRM%20-%20Textured%20Grips/BMR_AFG_TEXTURE_001.jpg

Magpul MOE RVG

http://zero7one.jalbum.net/BRM%20-%20Textured%20Grips/BMR_MOE_RVG_TEXTURE_001.jpg

http://zero7one.jalbum.net/BRM%20-%20Textured%20Grips/BMR_MOE_RVG_TEXTURE_002.jpg

http://zero7one.jalbum.net/BRM%20-%20Textured%20Grips/BMR_MOE_RVG_TEXTURE_003.jpg

Magpul PMAG

http://zero7one.jalbum.net/BRM%20-%20Textured%20Grips/BMR_PMAG_TEXTURE_001.jpg

http://zero7one.jalbum.net/BRM%20-%20Textured%20Grips/BMR_PMAG_TEXTURE_002.jpg

Wondering Beard
2 December 2010, 11:05
Very cool and well done!

I have been wondering about doing something like that for myself so your report is quite timely.

Could you give us the actual name of the tool, or equivalent tools and perhaps show some photos of what the different heads do in terms of shape?

Policetacteam
2 December 2010, 15:07
That is very cool! Looks very clean and right from the manufacturer. Personally...that texture looks a little more aggressive than I would care for but I'm curious if something less textured is available. I think you're onto to something here.

Eric
2 December 2010, 16:05
That is very cool! Looks very clean and right from the manufacturer. Personally...that texture looks a little more aggressive than I would care for but I'm curious if something less textured is available. I think you're onto to something here. It is really dependant on the tip used, pressure applied, duration of time the heat is applied and the material being worked with. I goofed around with a Pmag, Lancer, and Thermold.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v503/AR15forme/IMG_5088.jpg

Stickman
2 December 2010, 17:24
Good review and pictures, I like where this is going.

zero7one
3 December 2010, 22:38
Very good review. And the pictures are outstanding...if I don't say so myself... :P


Could you give us the actual name of the tool, or equivalent tools and perhaps show some photos of what the different heads do in terms of shape?

Here is a link to the wood burner used...or something very similar to what was used.

http://www.walnuthollow.com/23906creativeversa-tool.aspx

After seeing what BMR had done with the wood burner, I thought that I would give a soldering iron would do to a PMAG. It took me about 5 minutes to get one square done with the tiny tip and the texture was not very aggressive at all. I am eventually going to try the whole magazine to see if it makes a noticeable difference or not. As for the wood burning kit...a purchase is in my near future.

BMR - Thanks again for the good idea and great review!

BMR
4 December 2010, 03:12
zero7one... Thats the exact tool / kit I used. And for time reference, it took me just a couple minutes to do each piece once the tool was hot.

AndyIgor
9 December 2010, 23:17
That looks very well done. I like how you stayed in the lines as well.
How long did it take to do the grip ? And how many attempts untill you figured out the depth and hold time ?

oregonshooter
11 December 2010, 15:51
That's a lot faster than the normal method I use as shown below, poking all them little holes. :) It does look very aggressive though.
http://cerakoter.com/gallery/gunsmithing/glock_stippling_001.jpg

lmtrocks
27 December 2010, 08:10
Disclaimer: photo quality on this thread is about to diminish due to my lack of photographic skill, quality camera, and stipling ability for A2 grips, XTMs or KAC rail panels. [BD]

The method I used was taking a small #6 screw and cuting lines into the screwhead perpendicular parallel to the "crosshairs" of the phillips. It created a "waffle" iron type of effect however on a much smaller scale. After doing the stipling I would use the rod of the soldering iron to melt some of the high spots back into the lower spots. It still creates a grip that handles nicely and doesn't feel like it's going to flake off in your hand. Mine was a 30w soldering iron from Wally World for about $9.

http://i320.photobucket.com/albums/nn346/gunguyshots/IMG00194-20101202-0235.jpg

http://i320.photobucket.com/albums/nn346/gunguyshots/PC270003.jpg

http://i320.photobucket.com/albums/nn346/gunguyshots/PC270002.jpg

http://i320.photobucket.com/albums/nn346/gunguyshots/PC270001.jpg

It also seems that the A2 pistol grip does look something like this...
http://i.treehugger.com/images/2007/10/24/lester-easter-island-001.jpg

GriffonSec
27 December 2010, 17:47
I've been meaning to get to this thread. I lightly stippled my AFG with a fine tipped soldering iron, which worked well for me as I didn't want anything agressive. Took about 20 minutes to do it right.

Here's what I've done with my mags, and I'm most likely going to try this with a Pmag:

http://i624.photobucket.com/albums/tt323/griffonsec/IMG_3984.jpg

My primary rifle is a 6.8 SBR. Magazines are C-products. I didn't want the high gloss, in addition to the slick teflon surface. I'm sorry I don't have pics of the process, but it's pretty simple. I stripped the mags, essentialy because I was adding the pull plates (varied reports of Cprod mags sticking), inserted it into a standard lower receiver and marked it just below the flare with a pencil. Using blue painters tape, I carefully masked off the upper portion of the magazine to be sure I taped into the grooves. I then sanded the lower portion of the mag with 000 steel wool and wiped it down with Acetone. Then after stuffing a couple of cotton balls into the lower opening of the mag, I placed it in my vice and grabbed the heat gun (dryer would work, and, heat may not be necessary - I was speeding up the process). During prep, I had the can of bedliner (be sure it's Rustoleum brand, the duplicolor is too thick and can run and clump) in a pot of hot water. Using several light coats I acheived the thickness and texture I was after. Cheap and easy, 7.99 a can at Walmart, and after 3 mags, felt like I still had a full can. Now the black is more subdued, very adequately textured surface that will last. My father came in for the holidays and he finally got to shoot my new build along with some other toys, and he seemd OK with them also. I'm sure he'll chime in on this. All of my metal magazines will sport this modification now.

Something of note with this, IF anyone were to contemplate doing Pmags. I would do the same prep, steel wool and acetone. Additionally, I have used spray on liner in the past, and it takes to paint very well also. I've used the stuff on my last roll cage in my HPDE car, then dye matched it to the interior and it held up perfectly.

Just something else on the shelf should anyone want to try it.

http://i624.photobucket.com/albums/tt323/griffonsec/IMG_3983.jpg

http://i624.photobucket.com/albums/tt323/griffonsec/IMG_3985.jpg

Quib
27 December 2010, 18:40
I'm all for DIY mods and improvements......Good idea GriffonSec, I like it!

I've used Spray-On Truckbed Liner on CAR handguards with good results. Added just the right amount of texture.

DM1975
4 January 2011, 05:01
Truck bed liner was going to be my secret weapon on my new build for the grips and cheek weld. I guess their are other Red Green types out there as well :cool: I have used it on a number of things with great success. One thing I will never try again though is crinkle finish paint. I mess it up every time I use it.

Quib
4 January 2011, 06:44
I used TBL on my SIG P225’s aging grip panels. Brought them back to life, and added much needed texture as well.

GriffonSec
4 January 2011, 08:30
You'd think after using this stuff, I'd have thought of Pistol grips. The Houge 1 piece on my Para P-13 is a bit too thick, and the S&A micartas are way too slick. TBL to the rescue?

I'm about to start a new SBR build with the CASV-M, and will be using TBL since I won't be running any rails.

Quib
4 January 2011, 10:25
I also use 3M industrial grip tape on places such as the front of the old A2 pistol grip before I swapped it out for the MAGPUL pistol grip, wrapped the magwell from the front around to the R/H side, and on the face of the modded switch on my carbines TLR-1.

Rubbing the grip tape with a large 3/8 th drive socket helps it adhere to the surface it's being applied to, and knocks down the excessively rough texture of the tape while keeping a texture that still provides grip.