PDA

View Full Version : TLR-1 Switch modification



GriffonSec
4 January 2011, 13:57
After seeing Quib's photo of modding his tail switch on the TLR-1, I shot him a couple of questions this morning, and got started on my own project.

Here's the inspiring picture:

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5288/5262012397_44e7e1dc7a_b.jpg

Tools:

1/16 allen wrench
long file
needle file
emery boards
(in my case:)
Dremel with cutoff wheel
Soldering iron

Initially, I thought I could get away with using a jigsaw blade and take my time, but the plastic is pretty hard, and I switched to the dremel pretty quick.

http://i624.photobucket.com/albums/tt323/griffonsec/IMG_4003.jpg

Remove your tailcap and use the allen wrench to remove the small bolt holding the switch. You will have to gently pull up, as the switch has two locating tabs under it.

http://i624.photobucket.com/albums/tt323/griffonsec/IMG_4004.jpg

Instead of going flat with mine, I still wanted to retain "nubs" as my setup requires a pull for constant on, and a push for momentary. Use a pencil to mark off the length you're after.

http://i624.photobucket.com/albums/tt323/griffonsec/IMG_4007.jpg

Again, I tried to handcut these to be a bit more presice without the melted mess yet just because it did fine on SCAR panels, the switch lever will not cooperate. Dremel the tabs off along your mark. Something of note, the tabs appear to be hollow, I'm OK with that

http://i624.photobucket.com/albums/tt323/griffonsec/IMG_4008.jpg

This will be the longest part of the job, cleaning the modified area. Use your fine long file to drag and round the cut edges, the needle file for the spots your file will not get, then the emery boards for finish. I ended up with the basic shape I was after in a few minutes per side.

http://i624.photobucket.com/albums/tt323/griffonsec/IMG_4010.jpg

Grab your soldering iron, or, if you cut them flat, this would be where you could apply grip tape as in Quib's picture at the start of this post. I used a battery operated one since this was a quick simple job. Not as clean as some, but gets the job done.

http://i624.photobucket.com/albums/tt323/griffonsec/IMG_4011.jpg

Then, once satisfied, reinstall your switch with the bolt and test.

http://i624.photobucket.com/albums/tt323/griffonsec/IMG_4012.jpg

http://i624.photobucket.com/albums/tt323/griffonsec/IMG_4013.jpg

http://i624.photobucket.com/albums/tt323/griffonsec/IMG_4014.jpg


Lights have been on the brain for a few days, and no more accidental momentary "ons" when grabbing the weapon. Just as easy to get on with or without gloves, yet I have to make it go to momentary. Works for me.

Quib
4 January 2011, 14:19
Good job GS!

Thanks for taking the time to write up a tutorial!

GriffonSec
4 January 2011, 14:33
No problem, thanks for the idea!

Quib
4 January 2011, 17:06
No problem, thanks for the idea!


Always happy to exchange ideas.

Jerry R
4 January 2011, 17:17
Very Nice write-up - thanks.

UDT
5 January 2011, 05:06
Thanks, for sharing. Very nice job.

usmcvet
16 March 2011, 09:27
Great idea guys. This makes the TLR1 a better option now. I ran one for a while but kept killing batteries while the gun was in the carrying case from light AD's.

Quib
16 March 2011, 10:13
Great idea guys. This makes the TLR1 a better option now. I ran one for a while but kept killing batteries while the gun was in the carrying case from light AD's.

LOL....been there.

I contemplated the installation of a Kydex switch guard to the TLR-1 to prevent accidental light activation. After running out of mounting ideas for the guard, I figured the next best option would be modifying the switch itself.

I see the ease of switch activation and thin thumb nut as the two weak spots of the TLR-1 design, and felt both needed addressing.

http://http://www.weaponevolution.com/forum/showthread.php?1578-TLR1-Thumb-Nut-Modification-Rev.-(A) (http://www.weaponevolution.com/forum/showthread.php?1578-TLR1-Thumb-Nut-Modification-Rev.-(A))