Choosing the correct buffer?

[chazthebiker]

Hi Guys!

I've now assembled two rifles. One is a Mega Billet Monolithic setup in 5.56mm (16"). The other is a Noveske forged upper / lower (18") in 6.8 SPC.

I am not having any problems with function at all. Still, I have a question concerning buffer weight. For both rifles I used the standard LMT carbine buffer... the cheapest one. This is the one part I went cheap on because I was not sure exactly which weight to choose. Since I am having absolutely no problems with the functioning of the rifles, would there be any reason any of you good folks would switch to a heavier buffer? I am using the heavy duty chrome silicon buffer spring from Larue Tactical if that makes a difference. Your thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated.

[Hmac]

I think the difference between a carbine buffer and H buffer is very noticeable. The recoil impulse is not as sharp - more spread out on a heavier buffer. I don't know about your 6.8 SPC, but if your 5.56 is a carbine, I think it would very likely handle an H buffer, very probably an H2, and very possibly an H3. There are so many variables that there's no way to know other than to buy or borrow an H, H2, and H3, and see if they work and see how you like the recoil impulse.

I have an H buffer on my Noveske Light Recce midlength, and with a BattleComp on it it feels like a .22. My buddy's DMPS came with a carbine buffer and he ended up preferring an H2 buffer, which cycles even the relatively low-power .223 he shoots at the range.

[chazthebiker]

I think the difference between a carbine buffer and H buffer is very noticeable. The recoil impulse is not as sharp - more spread out on a heavier buffer. I don't know about your 6.8 SPC, but if your 5.56 is a carbine, I think it would very likely handle an H buffer, very probably an H2, and very possibly an H3. There are so many variables that there's no way to know other than to buy or borrow an H, H2, and H3, and see if they work and see how you like the recoil impulse.

I have an H buffer on my Noveske Light Recce midlength, and with a BattleComp on it it feels like a .22. My buddy's DMPS came with a carbine buffer and he ended up preferring an H2 buffer, which cycles even the relatively low-power .223 he shoots at the range.

Thank you for your reply. I have to wonder whether slowing things down with the heavier buffer would improve a shooter's accuracy simply because there would be a less violent cycling of the weapon? The 6.8 actually bruises my shoulder a little so I think a heavier buffer may help.
With the 5.56 I only shoot 62 grain Lake City M855
With the 6.8 SPC I shoot SSA Match rounds. I think they are 110 grain bullets. Will switch to an SSA hunting round next year.

I guess I'll need to do as you say and get a sample of each buffer to try out.
Thanks again!

[Paulo_Santos]

Where is the brass ejecting? Ideally,you want it to eject at the 3-4 o'clock position. If it is already ejecting at those positions, you are good, if not, go up until it gets that way. Each rifle is different, so you may have to experiment a little bit. It will also be different in the summer time. You might use a buffer that works perfect in the summer time and in the winter, it may short stroke and you have to lighten it up again. Noveske 6.8 rifles are generally a little overgassed because of all o the different ammo out there. For the 6.8, I'd stick with the 110-115 GR ammo.

[Hmac]

I know nothing about the 6.8 - never even shot one . On the AR15, the recoil certainly isn't punishing, but in my hands, reduction of felt recoil helps me a lot relative to getting back on target and staying on target. In that regard, spreading out the recoil impulse makes a big difference, as does using a compensator like the BattleComp, so I'd say that doing everything to manage recoil is a worthy effort as long as you don't go so far as to impair reliability.

[Paulo_Santos]

The 6.8 can shoot like a 5.56 carbine and it can shoot like a .308, depending if it is set up properly or if it is overgassed.

[GriffonSec]

Being far from an expert at any of this, I like to experiment. I have to agree, find someone that may have other buffers, try them out, and find what cycles the weakest ammo you shoot. Personally, I did a lot of reading on what's most common for use in several similar setups, and then I tried them out.

I have an 8.5" 6.8 sbr, and I've run a standard carbine buffer, H2, and now the VLTOR A5-2. To me, recoil wasn't any more noticeable than on the 5.56 with the 6.8. What I wanted to be sure of was where the brass ejected. With the H2, I had good 3 o'clock ejection in a neat little pile. With the VLTOR, it's more between 2 and 3 and a bit scattered, but certainly shoots much smoother. My main concern was the 85 gr TAC loads from SSA being able to properly cycle after that, I tried an extra power rifle spring, back to 3 o'clock and a neat pile, but would not cycle every 2-3 rounds with 85 TAC, nor lock back on empty. My A1 runs the H2 from the sbr build, and shoots well, but what I would call the impact is more noticeable than the sbr with the A5. I pulled that upper and put it on the sbr lowerto try it with the A5, ejection with 5.56 55gr loads was around 2 o'clock, but so much smoother to shoot, I'll most likely put an A5 on that rifle also.

I didn't get into changing out buffers for recoil reduction, moreso for reliable cycling of all ammo. I think reduction in perceived recoil is a byproduct of it. After running the A5 system, all of my builds will have them for the off chance of increased bolt life and reliability combined with much more comfortable shootability.

BABC on the 6.8, if you don't plan on a suppressor, is as close to perfect as you'll get.

[AR-10]

Ideally,you want it to eject at the 3-4 o'clock position. If it is already ejecting at those positions, you are good, if not, go up until it gets that way.

This is what I was taught, if your brass isn't ejecting as mentioned above then it is time to play around with buffer weights.

Ideally you should keep various buffers on hand in case you have cycling issues, you might find yourself shooting cheap or underpowered ammo that doesn't cycle well with a particular buffer - if you have other buffers in your range bag you can fix this in about five seconds.

[chazthebiker]

Hey, I really appreciate what you men have told me concerning this. Yes, the brass ejects fine from both rifles. There is no function problem. One thing mentioned that catches my eye is where you say the spent cases should land. The 5.56 land between 2-3 o'clock. The 6.8 land more like 1-2 o'clock.

You are fortunate in that you are probably home more often than me. I'm only home at Christmas and vacation so have a lot less time to get out and shoot. I get home again in April and will have a couple of different buffers waiting when I get there. Thanks for all the help!