To stake or not to stake the castle nut

[Denver45]

Hey all,

Looking for opinions on this. I put my lower together and I am seeing a lot of debate about the castle nut and staking vs. Loctite vs. just tightening the hell out of it.

I want my rifle to be reliable under battle conditions although carbine classes may be thew worst conditions it ever sees. Do I need to stake the castle nut or will a little blue Loctite work just as good? I realize this might come down simply to preferences but wanted to make sure I'm doing my homework before I start shooting it.

Thanks!

[Paulo_Santos]

The absolute best thing to dk is tighten it and stake it. I've used blue loctite in the past and it has worked well. Too well in one case and I had to cut it off. LOL. When I went to the Colt Aemorer class, I asked and the instructor told me that loctite can ruin the threads if you use it too much and if you keep taking the stock off and putting it back on. So I highly recommend that you stake them, but if you can't do that, put a couple of drops on the threads where the castle nut goes. When I say a couple, I mean a couple.

[Denver45]

Thanks for the input. I don't *think* I have a way to stake it without paying someone to do it. I won't be removing the tube unless I switch to a Magpul UBR.

If I do get it staked is it difficult to "unstake" it in the event that I do want to change the tube?

Thanks again!

[Paulo_Santos]

Thanks for the input. I don't *think* I have a way to stake it without paying someone to do it. I won't be removing the tube unless I switch to a Magpul UBR.

If I do get it staked is it difficult to "unstake" it in the event that I do want to change the tube?

Thanks again!

To stake it, you just need a hammer and a Punch. You just have to displace some of the metal. To remove it, just unscrew the castle nut.

[Denver45]

Right on. I thought it might take a specialized tool. Google is your friend. [BD]

[AR-10]

I put red Loctite on mine, and staked the end plate.

Loctite can be removed with the application of heat, a heat gun will get the nut hot enough to break down red or blue should you ever need to remove it.

Just don't go crazy with it, you only need a small patch - don't drench the threads with it.

[CLBME]

Good evening Denver45,

When I installed my MagPul stock on my Stag it was staked from the factory. It was surprisingly easy to remove with a simple inexpensive wrench. Upon reinstallation I simply staked mine with a Craftsman punch I use regularly for work. It was very simple to do with a small ball-peen hammer as Paulo said. My punch was pretty pointy, which helped to stabilize it when hit and nicely peen some material into the nut. Unless there is some torque applied to the staked nut I don't think it will ever back out in the normal course of firing without Loctite. This thought is only based upon my experience with equipment though.

[Quib]

One of the easiest DIY tasks to perform on the bench. As mentioned above, a ballpeen hammer and punch will suffice. My staking tool is a modified flat-tip screwdriver blade.


http://quib.weaponevolution.com/Castle Nut Stake.jpg



I cover a bit on staking here: http://www.weaponevolution.com/forum/showthread.php?1613-FAQ-s-BASIC-INSPECTIONS-AND-PROCEDURES

[Denver45]

Thanks to everyone for replying!

Seems like on other forums *cough* this is a big debate and no one seems to be able to simply say "See how easy it is?" and prevent it from becoming a heated debate. [bash]

Again I can't say how great this forum is because of you all!

[rob_s]

I keep an automatic center punch in my tool bag. Have used it to stake dozens of other people's castle nuts, as well as my own when changing out parts or assembling new lowers.

[HeavyDuty]

I stake after I'm sure a specific configuration is going to work for me. As an example, I want to run my newer Noveske QD endplates for a few months before I stake them.

[Quib]

I keep an automatic center punch in my tool bag. Have used it to stake dozens of other people's castle nuts, as well as my own when changing out parts or assembling new lowers.

Rob, what brand ACP did you purchase? I bought one and it wasn't strong enough for staking the receiver end plate.

[Eric]

I chuckle when I hear guys claim that staking isn't necessary. Ever try to find a small spring and detent in the dirt/grass/mud/sand after unexpected spontaneous disassembly occurs? Not to mention, it can reduce your rifle to a club at the most inopportune time.

I like Quib's custom tool. The end result looks like Colt factory staking. I just use a simple center punch.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v503/AR15forme/Staking/IMG_81072.jpg

[AR-10]

I agree, Quib your method looks like the factory stake job on my Colt lower.

Something else I noticed, some end plates are harder than others.

For instance - I put one of these on a lower and it was pretty much impossible to stake:

http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/3263/rearsling01large.jpg

I don't know what the heck they made it out of or how it was hardened but I ended up using a generous amount of red Loctite instead.

[Denver45]

Great info guys.

I picked up a Magpul ASAP for my lower. I plan on buying the upper in a week. I won't stake it just yet as I want to play around with the sling first to make sure that's what I want and then I'll stake it.

I don't know anything about automatic punches but I already have a ton of tools for wood working and whatnot so I guess it's time to go buy a few more. Darn! In fact, I think I need a new tool box for AR specific tools and extra parts.

I bet this is what shoe shopping is like for my wife. [:D]

[rob_s]

I have a Starrett. I got it from Brownells, IIRC. Two things:
1) You have to keep cycling it multiple times. One "click" doesn't do it.
2) The body can unscrew and if it does it weakens the blow

[Quib]

Thanks for the update Rob. I'll have to keep my eyes open for the Starrett brand.

Eric I like your stake method and may have to break out the good ol' standard center punch and hammer next time.

About the importance of staking: A Program Manager of ours here at work purchased a used rifle. During a recent range session his castle nut backed off resulting in the stock loosening up and his buffer detent and spring falling down into the lower receiver. The damaged buffer retainer and spring were replaced, the castle nut torqued to spec. I staked the castle nut as shown on page one of this thread and gave the rifle a good teardown, cleaning and inspection.

[Quib]

Great info guys.

I picked up a Magpul ASAP for my lower. I plan on buying the upper in a week. I won't stake it just yet as I want to play around with the sling first to make sure that's what I want and then I'll stake it.

I don't know anything about automatic punches but I already have a ton of tools for wood working and whatnot so I guess it's time to go buy a few more. Darn! In fact, I think I need a new tool box for AR specific tools and extra parts.

I bet this is what shoe shopping is like for my wife. [:D]


Some info here as well, covering parts and tool storage: http://www.weaponevolution.com/forum/showthread.php?1690-SPARE-PARTS-STORAGE

[todd.k]

I want my rifle to be reliable under battle conditions although carbine classes may be thew worst conditions it ever sees. Do I need to stake the castle nut or will a little blue Loctite work just as good?
No debate, stake the castle nut if it's not a hobby gun.

Staked is easier to remove than thread locked. You can stake the endplate with a nail and hammer (and someone to hold the lower helps) but I'd recommend you just buy an auto center punch.

[Denver45]

I found the Starrett at Brownells for $30. I'll order it soon. Sounds like the easiest way to go.

Thanks Quib for the link on the parts storage. Looks like a great way to go about keeping it organized.

Now if the Noveske Recce LP 16 will just come back into stock at Rainiers site in the next week I'll be really happy. I may have to look elsewhere.

My Troy BUIS show up today. Pretty soon I'm just going to need to worry about ammo and range time!

You guys are all amazing. My hat's off to you all.

[mustangtmg]

One of the easiest DIY tasks to perform on the bench. As mentioned above, a ballpeen hammer and punch will suffice. My staking tool is a modified flat-tip screwdriver blade.


http://quib.weaponevolution.com/Castle Nut Stake.jpg



I cover a bit on staking here: http://www.weaponevolution.com/forum/showthread.php?1613-FAQ-s-BASIC-INSPECTIONS-AND-PROCEDURES

I am waiting for the parts to build my AR, and I wonder: if a ballpeen hammer IS necessary. The photo clearly shows what I learned in metal shop class back in the early 1960s, is a BLACKSMITH hammer. I plan on using a ballpeen or the brass hammer that I actually MADE in that very Jr High shop class to do my staking!

I hope that my weird humor is acceptable in the Forum. I had to know the NAMES of each tool in the well-stocked metal shop to pass the class. My favorite, as was EVERY other 14 year old boy in the class was, of course, the BASTARD file. I still laugh that that name - we could say "bastard" and if in the proper context, NOT get into trouble! Sweet!