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Boogieman
27 February 2008, 00:20
Here is a pic of the AR that I just got together with a lot of help from a good friend. Thanks to Rainier Arms as well with their great parts pricing that helped to make it possible.

Specs:

Olympic Arms lower
Daniel Defense Combat Carbine AR15 Lite Rail FSP 12.0 upper
MI SPLP BUIS rear sight
MI folding front sight
EOTech 512
Magpul CTR Stock
Magpul MIAD Grip
Bobro Standard Vertical Grip
Daniel Defense Front (QD) and Rear Sling Mounts
Viking Tactics 2 point sling
Daniel Defense Off-Set light mount with Surefire 6P light (extended to 9V system)
And of course, Magpul PMags.

I think that is about it.

I'm syched to hit the range with this for three days this upcoming weekend.

Sorry if the pic isn't the greatest, I just set something up quick so I could post a pic up on here.

Feedback welcome!

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3263/2295095049_f5ebd9a917_b.jpg

Stickman
27 February 2008, 00:46
A massive amount of building a weapon, or laying one out is based off your intended use. In this case, I think you are going to be the best judge of what works best for you. From IM/PM we have had previously, you prior service time tells me that you know your way around the M16 platform.

From a personal likes and dislikes point of view, there will always be people that dislike Olympic Arms, and thats fine as they aren't going to carry your weapon for you. It looks like you went with a shell, and built around it. I would guess you did that for a reason. If mags fit, and the fire control group functions, that is what matters. A lower is simply a shell for those things.

Slings are another personal matter, and I lean strongly towards the Gear Sector GS-2P, but that is based on my own needs. Another well built adjustable sling is the VCAS by BFG. The material in the sling you like, is something I don't care for at all. The adjustment tail is something else I don't care for. Before anyone asks that question or tells me to try it before I complain, I own one and have tried it. However, I understand that this is a personal call based on what the individual likes, and as long as that sling continues to work for you, thats what matters.

Based on your posted picture, I would take that optic and move it forward so the cross bar engages the last cutout on your upper receiver. The more forward mounted it is, the easier it tends to be to keep away from tunnel vision and keep your peripheral vision. Again, this is what works for me.


I like the extended rail which covers and protects the gas block. SOCOM has gone with a similar concept. SOCOM also seems to like the idea of more rail space, while I personally like the increased iron sight radius as well.

Of note on the sights, I was recently told that Crane had checked and found that there were no confirmed kills from the MIL using BUIS. I found that highly interesting, and it goes to show (If I got all the info) that optics honestly are ruling the battle field (stateside and overseas) just like many of us had suspected.

My thoughts on PMAGs are outlined in the two PMAG articles I've written here. To be blunt, I feel the days of the aluminum magazine are drawing to a close.

I run a MIAD grip and CTR on my current duty pig, and they work well for me. Make sure you check out all the sizes for the front and backstrap and make sure that you have what fits YOUR hand the best.



PS- Most importantly, I like your picture and the way you cropped it. :P

SHIHAN
27 February 2008, 00:49
Looks good, any problems with the lower?

Eric
27 February 2008, 01:10
I guess we'll find out this weekend how it runs. A three day Patrol Rifle class with a high round count should reveal any deficiencies in the system. I prefer a fixed front sight instead of a flip-up, but that's a personal preference. Oly Arms lowers are hit and miss on quality/being in spec.

Boogieman
27 February 2008, 01:31
Stick - Thank for the feedback, which as usual, is very thorough and helpful. I have never had the chance to run a EOTech during an operation and have always used iron sights...so your point on tunnel vision is a great point and well taken. I had some problems with the setup of the sling at first when I initially tried it on, but found that it fit well after I adjusted it a few times and got use to the setup. Ultimately I will see how it runs this weekend and give some feedback after a lot of lead down range.

Shihan - I haven't put any rounds down range yet with this setup and have never shot with an OlyArms lower, but again, I will provide feedback by next week.

Eric - I'm sure, as always, that our training will be nothing but adequate and thorough. I'm sure that we will have a blast with the exception of brass cleanup. [:D]

bikethief
27 February 2008, 01:37
Since Mr. Eric and Mr. Stick already covered the functional/practical side of the discussion, I will contribute on the aesthetic side. I'd get a Tango Down VFG to replace the BOBRO only because it kinda matches your CTR, MIAD, and PMAG. Then I'd get a new school flashider to go with your new school furniture.

Again, my comments are purely on the aesthetic side. Looks like a solid build already bro!

Boogieman
27 February 2008, 03:44
bikethief - Thanks for your recommendations. Though I can appreciate your point on aesthetics, i'm more of a functionability kind of guy. Don't get me wrong, I don't want to carry around a piece of equipment that looks bad, but I would rather have a piece of equipment that is efficient and reliable. I'm going to stick with what I have until I either find that a certain aspect of the rifle does not work for my intended purpose, or when I find something that can do the job better for me. I didn't get the rifle to win a "best looking gun show", but rather to protect myself, the officer's that I work with, and the citizens that I swore to protect.

12131
27 February 2008, 09:16
Nice.
A question. The entire upper, including the barrel, is by DD?
Have fun this weekend.

aus71383
27 February 2008, 09:50
What lower parts kit did you use in that Olympic lower? I'm interested in the range report too! Looks like a nice gun - I hope it shoots well for you.

Austin

NvrenufRR
27 February 2008, 11:04
Very nice lookinf weapon!!

Like Stick said, it matters if it works and thats it!
Good luck and start buying LOTS of ammo!!
Happy Shooting!

Boogieman
27 February 2008, 14:22
12131 - Yes, the entire upper is DD, with the exception of the charging handle...we replaced it and I'm not entirely sure who made it. :(

aus71383 - Like I said before, my friend helped me put this together, and I am not entirely sure what lower parts kit he used. I have no doubt in my mind that the quality of the parts used were nothing but top grade.

John Hwang
28 February 2008, 13:27
I personally prefer the USGI aluminum mags with Magpul enhanced followers. It's not I dislike the Pmags but I've had many Magpul Pmags stick on many different brands of lowers we carry. I don't know if this is just a latest trend thing or not but the torrence on wall thickness varies from mag to mag more than any other mag I've seen. Take a caliper through your mags and measure the OD of your mag and see if you get similar results.

Boogieman
28 February 2008, 16:04
John - That is an interesting find about the PMAGs. I have had a lot of problems with the USGI mags in my previous career and I wanted to give something else a chance. I'll let you know after this weekend how they worked out.

Stickman
28 February 2008, 17:16
If you aren't pulling/ ripping that magazine out of the magwell, you are training wrong, but I understand Johns point.

Eric
28 February 2008, 22:10
Take a caliper through your mags and measure the OD of your mag and see if you get similar results.
I took measurements on 10 new mags (Dark Earth Windowed PMags), measuring at two points near the top of the mag body (near the front and near the rear).
.884/.892
.883/.893
.880/.895
.884/.892
.887/.892
.885/.891
.878/.892
.879/.891
.897/.892
.885/.892
While I haven't measured USGI mags, this batch of PMags seems fairly consistent.

TigerStripe
28 February 2008, 23:07
My guess, and that's all it is, is that PMags probably have varied lot to lot more than mag to mag. Eric's numbers are pretty close tolerance wise.


TS

Boogieman
28 February 2008, 23:48
I will see how things work out with them. Per the Magpul webpage, this is a known issue. See below:

PMAG Replacement Body

It has come to the attention of Magpul Industries Corp that a number of users have experienced feeding problems with their PMAGs™ due to unusually tight magazine bodies. The primary symptom is sluggish follower response, or snagging when loaded with more than 20 rounds. These issues are a result of dimensional changes occurring after the PMAG™ left the Magpul factory, and only affect the PMAG™ body. Other PMAG™ components such as the follower, lock plate, floor plate, and impact cover are unaffected.

Improvements in the manufacturing process have resolved this issue on all PMAGs™ dated 7/07 and later. Although this issue affects only a very limited number of PMAGs™, Magpul will replace all PMAGs™ dated 6/07 and earlier. To determine your PMAG’s™ date of manufacture, check the round date code on the upper half of the left side of the PMAG™ (see image).

http://www.magpul.com/catalog/images/pmagdate.jpg

The arrow points to the month of manufacture, and the year is in the center. If you are unsure of your PMAG’s™ performance, we encourage its replacement.

This PMAG™ exchange is at no cost to you. Please complete this order form detailing the magazines you will be returning. A valid credit card number is required for this exchange, but will not be immediately charged; we simply request you return your 6/07 and earlier PMAG™ bodies in a reasonable time frame. Should you decide to keep your 6/07 and earlier PMAG™ bodies, your credit card will be charged $5 per replacement body.

In order to provide the most efficient service possible, Magpul is not able to swap colors or styles (window/non-window). The new PMAG™ bodies you receive will be the same color and style as your original PMAGs™. A pre-paid return shipping label will be included with the new magazine bodies. Disassemble your 6/07 and earlier PMAGs™ and return only the PMAG™ bodies using the provided shipping box.

BRD Jerm
29 February 2008, 15:11
there is also some issue's with them not dropping free,with mags made in 7/7 and 8/7.

but a few swipes with some sand paper,or just using them for a short time,seems to fix it.

a little extra material in a spot or two.


If you have a PMAG™ with 7/07 or 8/07 mfg date, there is a tuning procedure you can perform that may help improve drop free performance. On these magazines, additional material is present on the front face of the Feed Tower Front Wall (see below). This added material can interfere with tighter magazine wells (front-to-back) causing some drag. Be aware that Magpul cannot guarantee the results of any modification and anyone performing said modifications do so at their own risk.


PMAG™ DROP-FREE TUNING PROCEDURE



STEP 1 - BREAK IN

Break in magazine by inserting it into the magazine well numerous times (20-30 or more). Do not continue further once magazine starts to drop free. If the magazine does not begin to drop free readily, look for wear spots to determine any areas of interference. If the front or back of the magazine Feed Tower shows wear then proceed to STEP 2. If wear is present on the small Front Transition Angle between the base of the Feed Tower Front Wall and the Top Rib proceed to STEP 3.



STEP 2 - FLATTEN FRONT FEED TOWER WALL

Using a flat file, lightly remove material from the front face of the Feed Tower Front Wall. Concentrate on high spots underneath Feed Relief Cut and around and underneath the Feed Tower Molding Gate. Be careful not to remove too much material! The maximum amount that should be removed is enough to make the front face flat (planar). Test magazine often for drop-free ejection. Do not continue further once magazine starts to drop free.



STEP 3 - ADJUST FRONT TRANSITION ANGLE

Using a round file, lightly remove material from the small Front Transition Angle between the base of the Feed Tower Front Wall and the Top Rib. This area is located approximately 1/3 of the way down on the FRONT of the magazine. Concentrate on removing material in the downward direction (as the magazine normally sits in the weapon). WARNING: DO NOT dip underneath the surface of the Feed Tower Front Wall as this can create a very thin area in the magazine and structurally weaken it. Test magazine often for drop-free ejection. If necessary, repeat STEP 1 – Break-in and look for interference/wear areas.




for reference...


PMAG™ MAGAZINE BODY FEATURES



Feed Tower – The top portion of the magazine that enters into the AR-15/M16 magazine well. It consists of approximately the top third of the magazine. The exterior walls of this section are generally flat and straight in order to slide easily into the rifle.



Feed Tower Front Wall – This flat, vertical wall is located on the front of the magazine and is the front section of the Feed Tower. It is rounded on the sides where there are two Locking Tabs toward the top and two Guide Tabs toward the bottom.



Feed Relief Cut – This shallow “U” shaped cut is located at the top of the Feed Tower Front Wall. It is in front of and below the bullet tips when the magazine is loaded. It allows clearance for the rounds to feed into the rifle Feed Ramps.



Feed Tower Molding Gate – This generally rectangular patch is located between the Guide Tabs. This area has some built-up material on 7/07 and 8/07 magazines.



Front Transition Angle – This feature is located approximately a third of the way down on the front of the magazine. It joins the base of the Feed Tower Front Wall with the front of the Top Rib. When viewed from the side it points approximately 60 degrees down and a 1/8” long.



Guide Tabs – Located below the Locking Tabs on the Feed Tower Front Wall. The Guide Tabs help stabilize the magazine in the rifle and help seal off the magazine well from debris intrusion.



Locking Tabs – Located on the top-sides of the Feed Tower Front Wall, these tabs engage the front of the Impact Cover (i.e. Impact Cover Locking Yoke).



Magazine Catch Groove – Located on the left side of the feed tower (i.e. Feed Tower Left Wall), the Magazine Catch Groove locks into the rifle Magazine Catch. This is a critical interface and should NEVER be modified. The lower protrusion (i.e. Magazine Catch Stop) prevents over-insertion of the magazine into the rifle. The Manufacturing Date Stamp is located directly below this area.



Manufacturing Date Stamp – This circular dial indicates the date of manufacture. It is located directly below the Magazine Catch Groove and Stop. The center protrusion contains an arrow with two numbers that indicate the year of manufacture (i.e. "07" for 2007). The arrow should point to one of the 12 numbers indicating the month of manufacture (i.e. “12” for December).



Top Rib – This feature is directly below the Feed Tower and separates it from the rest of the magazine. It is angled up at approximately 10 degrees when the magazine is viewed from the side. When inserted into the rifle, the Top Rib is directly below the rifle Magazine Well and wraps around the circumference of the Magazine Body.

Boogieman
29 February 2008, 15:34
I just want to bring up what Stickman brought up earlier....


If you aren't pulling/ ripping that magazine out of the magwell, you are training wrong, but I understand Johns point.

You should NEVER expect and solely rely on gravity removing your magazine for you. Train by stripping the magazine out and you will be sure to have it out and a new one in when you want it to be. Now if the magazine sticks and cannot be extracted even by pulling on it....then you better have a sidearm that you can transition to.