Norrells Moly Resin in the oven

[ChristopherM4]

I have a few questions for those that have used the Norrels moly resin and baked it in their oven. First off did you use your standard house oven or was a shop oven or old oven purchased just for this? Secondly if the house oven was used were there any fumes and did they linger? Want to make sure I don’t ruin mine and not be able to cook anything in it without getting a paint smell/taste. Lastly did you hang them from the rack or lay them on a rack? Anything under to catch drips or anything?

Basically wanting to know if there are any gotchas of using this in a home oven that you regularly use?


Thanks for the info. I’m considering using this stuff on a AMD65 build I’ll be starting soon and maybe refinish the frame on a HK P7.



Thanks,

Topher

[Stickman]

I have a few questions for those that have used the Norrels moly resin and baked it in their oven. First off did you use your standard house oven or was a shop oven or old oven purchased just for this? Secondly if the house oven was used were there any fumes and did they linger? Want to make sure I don’t ruin mine and not be able to cook anything in it without getting a paint smell/taste. Lastly did you hang them from the rack or lay them on a rack? Anything under to catch drips or anything?

Topher


I'm not sure if you read the tacked write up or not, but it may be worth your time. You REALLY want to preheat your surface in between coats of finish, and you want to make sure that the finish continues to dry as soon as it hits the surface. If you see it take a second before it dries, reheat it again. This will ensure you have a great looking finish.

As far as heating it in the oven, I use my home oven. I let the item stay out a day, then cure it the next night. I hang all larger items, but little pieces like pins, springs, hammer or trigger can be left on a tray. By letting the items sit out a day, the smell is really reduced when the item is cured. If you drop it in right you are done spraying, the smell is much stronger. Regardless of when I'm doing it, I always turn on the oven exhaust fan, which seems to help.

The next morning, there isn't a trace of smell in the oven.

[103m 95g]

electrict / gas oven or does it matter?

[Stickman]

It doesn't matter. Whats important is that you have the correct temperature, which means picking up an oven thermometer.

[ARin]

i use the house oven. the smell is quite strong, but does NOT linger at all after baking is finished.

I just throw open the windows while baking, and by the time its done, the smell is gone. I have done both, hang parts and just lay them on the rack, or like stick said, with small parts, i use a tray.

i let the oven warm up to 300 for 15 mintues, then put the parts in for 1 hr and 10 minutes. the 10 minutes gives the parts time to reach temp.

there is no "dripping" at all....assuming your parts were properly degreased beforehand.

Before painting, preheat the parts in an oven, and have a heatgun handy to keep them hot. Harbor freight has heatguns for cheap.

the three KEYS to a good finish are these

proper degrease. scrub in hot soapy water, rinse with acetone or MEK...ony handle prepped parts with clean latex/nitrile gloves.
Proper preheat, and KEEPING the parts hot while spraying
Proper spray. Adjust your airbrush to a medium fine spray. if the spray is too coarse, it will turn out shiny. your strokes should cover well, but still need several coats to cover completely. this gives a nice flat finish that has not added much thickness to your parts.

[ChristopherM4]

Stick, yes I’ve read the guide and found it very useful read and is what helped me decide to take on the project. Adding the oven bits might be helpful for others as I was uncertain of using my home oven to bake my items. I do intend to use my heat gun to keep the items hot prior to painting.


Thanks everyone for the feedback, it was most helpful.

[Stickman]

Sounds good, I appreciate the feedback and will include more info on using a household oven.

[STINKY]

Does anybody have a sample of their work using the Norrells Tan / Gray finish ?

[ARin]

this is norrels tan/fde

http://img1.uploadhouse.com/fileuploads/1537/1537973fb7968d2c88b54924410906cc99c5875.jpg

[Lawdog]

Stickman, which Norrels color Black matchs Kimber Warrior color?

[Stickman]

Stickman, which Norrels color Black matchs Kimber Warrior color?


I'm not sure, I had though the Kimber Warrior was FDE. When you start talking about matching colors, its very difficult to match exactly. Its often pretty easy to come close, but exact can be quite hard.

[TriggerTX]

Baking question here, I'm going to coat my Bobro bipod and I have removed the feet, are there any more parts that wouldnt be too happy in the oven? Bushings? Are they made of brass, poly, ???

Thanks!

Josh

[Stickman]

Good question, I don't think there is anything on the bipod that can't take the curing temps, but you may want to shoot an IM or email to Andrew just in case.

[Army Chief]

On a semi-related note, I've noticed many FDE rifles look great at first, only to end up with darkened/mis-matched barrels as a result of their higher operating temperatures. I'm by no means fixated on cosmetics, but I am curious if this phenomenon can be minimized by selecting the right components to begin with.

It is clear that Krylon is particularly susceptible to this, but do these advanced moly coatings really fare any better? Can this be addressed during the application process somehow, or are there special high-temp coatings that are designed expressly for use on barrels? I seem to recall that there are, but my direct experience is decidedly more at the Krylon end of the spectrum, and I've little interest in seeking answers among those (elsewhere on the www) who view their carbines largely as decorative items.

AC

[Army Chief]

... and yes, I am aware of the fact that not coating the barrel is also an option, particularly on SBRs, but I had some largely non-NFA applications in mind. :)

AC

[TriggerTX]

Thanks Stickman, I'll give that a try.

Chief, finishing the barrel or not is a good debate.
I guess you could weigh in all the factors like is it stainless or carbon, is it mostly covered by the forearm.

And aesthetics..
I like everything I do to look good but I'm not fixated on a beautiful finished heavily accessorized safe queen.

I'm coating my 14.5 Afghan which is about 3 to four years old with FDE moly. Everythings getting painted (everything), except the barrel and vortex. The barrel is stainless with the bead blasted finish and doesnt have any shine to it. And I'm going to leave the flash hider because it already has a hardy character and much experience down range.

In the end the whole rifle and scope will be FDE minus the barrel, I think it will be a good look.

[Army Chief]

I'm with you, Trigger, and my question was more geared toward a stock Colt LE carbine than to the Afghan project. A 16" gun that starts out all black might stand to gain something from going to 100% FDE, but the Afghan's matte stainless tube needs no such consideration. The Noveske is really a piece of functional art in it's own right. As stated, the purpose here isn't to create a boutique gun; just to glean a bit more detail about the FDE moly options, and how well they handle the heat.

AC

[peabody]

Dad gum it .... i now have to try this.. bought 8oz grey-black ... hopes that it will match my no-dak-spud partial fence lower.

Peabody