Armorer Tools - What are your essentials?

[zero7one]

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8377/8522975175_fc55da35e8_b.jpg

With so many different firearms around there are bound to be an endless amount of tools to build, fix, and maintain them. What are some of those tools that you rely on to get the job done? No restrictions on the types of tools or variant of firearms. If you use something out of the norm or custom, let us know, we are always looking for a better way of doing business.

[Bob Reed]

Hello,

Excluding some special tools I've made at the machine shop, the tools below are what I use the most.

Forster Brand, Fixed-Blade, Hollow Ground Screwdrivers: I really like Forster Screwdrivers dispite them being made from steel that's a little on the soft side and I have all 12 of the sizes that they offer. http://www.forsterproducts.com/store...36&catid=19938

Brownells, Fixed-Blade, Hollow Ground Screwdrivers: These are good screwdrivers, and I have the Gunsmith's 20 Piece Master Set #080-451-000AD. This set pretty well covers all the Fillister Head Gun Screws that you're likely to encounter. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=4...er-Master-Set-

Starrett No. 565 Pin Punch Set, these punches are beautifully crafted, have an OAL of 4" and their made from high-grade-steel. The No. 565 Set contains the following sizes: 1/16, 3/32, 1/8, 5/32, 3/16, 7/32, 1/4, 5/16 and it's well worth the money! http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT...M=Starrett+565

Brownells Gunsmith Professional Punch Set #080-553-000, this set contains: 1/16, 3/32, 1/8, 5/32 Pin & Starter Punches, plus a Center Punch & Prick Punch.

Mayhew Mini Punch Set #587-474-000AA, these three reduced length mini punches give excellent control because of their short 2.750" OAL, and their perfect for doing small, precision work. The set contains: 1/16, 5/64, 3/32 Pin Punches.

Brownells Roll Pin Starter Punch Set #080-000-241AA, these punches have a reduced shank length and their great for getting tight pins to moving, their also perfect for when you just want to move the pin enough to free the part. This set contains 1/16, 5/64, 3/32, 1/8, 5/32, 3/16, 7/32 Roll Pin Starter Punches.

Brownells Roll Pin Punch Set #230-100-000, these are a must in order to prevent damageing Roll Pins. This set contains: 1/16, 5/64, 3/32, 1/8, 5/32, 3/16, 7/32 Roll Pin Punches.

NOTE: Mayhew Brand Roll Pin Punches are machined much nicer than Brownells and can be found here. http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT...MTERM=06522999

Also Note: SK Tools have changed the design of their Roll Pin Punches. SK changed from a style that closely resembled Mayhew's. SK's New-Style Roll Pin Punches have HEX Shaped Handles and the "pin section" isn't quite as long as the other brands. The design change was a good-thing because the slightly shorter pin-sections are stronger!

Brownells Roll Pin Holder Set #080-685-000, these offer a great deal of help when installing Roll Pins, especially the short pins found on pistols. This set contains: 1/16, 5/64, 3/32, 1/8 Roll Pin Holders.

Brownells 3/4" Nylon/Brass Hammer #818-600-075, this hammer is great for small work, I use this hammer the most and it offers the right amount of force for most small pins.

Brownells 1" Nylon/Brass Hammer #818-600-100, this is a good hammer to have as well.

Brownells Extra-Large Pistol Bench Block #080-000-493. This bench block is nice & big and has pre-drilled through holes for your pins to pass, and it has a "V" for holding barrels to aid in link pin removal & installation. It's a very handy bench block that won't marr finishes. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=2...E_BENCH_BLOCKS

Starrett's No. 129 Hardened Steel Bench Block is a must have and it's the block I use the most.
The No. 129 is the smaller block shown in the photo via. the link. http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT...MTERM=86405610

Brownells Leather Pads #413-001-002, are very handy and a dense leather pad placed under your bench block, frame, slide, bolt, ect. during pin removal really soaks-up the bounce and makes tight pins break loose much easier.

For those of you who don't have a Brownells Catalog, the tools can be found online at. http://www.brownells.com/

NOTE: Always measure the pin sections on new punches with your caliper or micrometer (to be sure their slightly under-sized) before pounding them into a hole! It's also wise to break the sharp edge on the "tip" of your pin punches & starter punches before using them - not only will it help prevent chipping the tips, it will also prevent scratching the item you're working on. I also break the sharp edges on the tips of my screwdrivers before using them as well. Yes, breaking all these edges takes a little time - but it's less stressful than explaining a nasty scratch to a customer.

And last but not least, get a high quality machinist vise like a Wilton or a Columbian. My 4" Smooth Face Columbian is my favorite http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT2?PMAKA=06918692&partnerURL=http://dirxion.mscdirect.com/bigbook/2012%6FBookCode=bb212flx%50SectionIndex=0%50PageIn dex=1290%50Arg=�

[zero7one]

Bob, that is quite the complete list...thanks for your input!

[Bob Reed]

Your Welcome - Thank You Sir!

[AKDoug]

My newest tool, and it works very well is the Geiselle Reaction rod http://geissele.com/reactionrod.aspx It has pretty much replaced action blocks of any type for me. I use only Starette punches after having way too many punches be out of spec.

[zero7one]

My newest tool, and it works very well is the Geiselle Reaction rod http://geissele.com/reactionrod.aspx It has pretty much replaced action blocks of any type for me. I use only Starette punches after having way too many punches be out of spec.

That is the first time I have seen that tool...looks like a great product that I'll definitely have to check out!

[Hmac]

+1 on the Reaction Rod. I just used it to remove my old DD Lite rail and install an NSR. It sure does eliminate a lot of the drama of barrel nut removal/installation.

[AKDoug]

I went so far as to make a 1/2" plate steel piece with a hole cutout to the shape of the back of the reaction rod and mounted it to my bench. Drop in the rod vertically, drop the upper over the rod, go to work. I'm welding a similar plate to a receiver hitch to facilitate field repairs on the back of my truck. Test barrels and muzzle devices without even going home.


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