Barrel and Rails?

[lil_pendejo]

I'm new here but have been using an M4 for work for the past 12 years and have no problem working on them but I am a little stumped on the new one I am building. The one I am building is the first that I have ever built just for me so I have a few questions. Here is a list of what I have so far:

Noveske N4 Chainsaw Lower
Noveske VLTOR MUR Upper Receiver - Chainsaw also (I have a thing for the chainsaw engraving)
Spikes ST-T2l Buffer and tube
Noveske QD End Plate
Daniel Defense BCG
Geissele HS National Match Trigger (I need an extremely light trigger due to damage in my firing hand)
BCM Ambidextrous Gunfighter Charging Handle
Noveske STS 60 Degree Ambi Safety
Palmetto State Armory LPK
Magpul MOE + Grip
Magpul CTR Stock
AAC 51T Blackout flash hider that will be pinned

This rifle is not for any kind of duty use. It is simply going to be shot from a benchrest. I am looking for it to be as accurate as possible.

So basically I have everything but the barrel and rail system. I was thinking that I go with a 14.5 inch barrel with a pinned gas block but I want to avoid stainless. I also want to go with the Daniel Defense Lite Rail in either 12 or 14 inches. My questions are:

1. What barrel would you recommend?
2. What rail would you recommend?
3. Finally... Does anyone know how to change out the ejection port cover on the Noveske VLTOR MUR-1A Upper? It has me completely stumped on how to do it.

[AR-10]

If you go with a 14.5" barrel you will need to pin and weld an extended muzzle device, or pay for a tax stamp and make it an SBR.

Barrel needs to be a minimum of 16" or else it will be considered a short barreled rifle.

Can I ask why you are ruling out stainless?

If you're building a bench gun and plan on shooting a lot of match grade ammo, stainless is the way to go in my opinion.

[Rodman24]

I agree with AR10 on the SS bbl, and why not just go with a 16" bbl

Looking at you parts list I'm thinking that you might also be looking a for an AR that could serve more roles than just a bench gun. If that's the case I still wouldn't rule out a 16" SS bbl.

Also keep in mind that the Noveske MUR upper could present some "issues" with you rail/handguard selection:

--The Noveske MUR does not have the relief cut like the VLTOR MUR-1A for other MFG's handguards which feature anti-rotation methods requiring an M4 Upper Receiver profile rearward of the front of the 1913 rail on top of the upper receiver--

[lil_pendejo]

Thanks for the replies. I was originally ruling out stainless because I tend to abuse my weapons. I like to burn through a lot of rounds in a very short amount of time. I have doing more and more research about stainless barrels and I think I will be going with one. I want to free float the barrel and my main goal for this rifle is to be able to hit out to 1000 meters reliably. I've been able to make reliable hits at 600 and 800 with a normal Army issue M4 so I figure 1,000 is my next targeted goal. Would a Noveske 14.5 Afghan stainless barrel be a good choice? ( I was already planning on pinning my AAC to the barrel) That and I'm looking at the Daniel Defense RIS II rails? See any problems?

[Stickman]

Should be a nice setup.

[mlosi762]

Reliable hits at 1000 meters with a 14.5" barrel in 5.56? Not trying to doubt your marksmanship abilities, but that's really pushing the envelope. Guess it depends on your definition of "reliable"

[lil_pendejo]

I know that it is pushing the envelope, that's why it is my goal. I do wonder if I will be able to do it more than a few times. If I can hit 800 meters with a garbage Army issue M4 and Acog reliably with normal M855 and M855A1, I figure that 1,000 with match grade is possible.

[Stickman]

Reliable hits at 1000 meters with a 14.5" barrel in 5.56? Not trying to doubt your marksmanship abilities, but that's really pushing the envelope. Guess it depends on your definition of "reliable"


It isn't like he is saying he is hitting a baseball at those distances.

[mlosi762]

It isn't like he is saying he is hitting a baseball at those distances.

That's exactly what I was meaning by asking the definition of "reliable." Basically inquiring about what the intended target is/would be.

[mlosi762]

I know that it is pushing the envelope, that's why it is my goal. I do wonder if I will be able to do it more than a few times. If I can hit 800 meters with a garbage Army issue M4 and Acog reliably with normal M855 and M855A1, I figure that 1,000 with match grade is possible.

Pushing the envelope is not bad by any means if thats your goal. Just wondering what you're trying to hit at those distances.

[lil_pendejo]

Pushing the envelope is not bad by any means if thats your goal. Just wondering what you're trying to hit at those distances.

I'm looking to hit regular E-type silhouettes. I am not looking to nail a golf ball at 1,000m. If I can do it great, if not... Well, at least I tried.

[lil_pendejo]

I went with a 14.5 inch fluted Noveske Afghan and a Daniel Defense 12 inch Lite rail. Leopold is on its way and so are 200 rounds of match grade Black Hills.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c174/lil_pendejo/IMG_20130410_174450_171.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c174/lil_pendejo/IMG_20130410_174508_442.jpg

[curtiskeenan]

removed by Eric

[Stickman]

Banned for being a spamming loser.

[rob_s]

I'd either ditch the AFG Or mount it in the right spot. I can't imagine how your weak hand can even contort into the right shape to hold onto it with where you have it mounted. The AFG was designed to work with a forward support hand and a c-grip around the handguard.

Good choice on the barrel and handguard. I'm still a fan of the 4-rail handguards even in the age of the Brazilian (slick) handguards because of the heat shielding they offer when combined with Larue Index Clips.