How to remove low-pro gas block?

[MoxyDave]

Hey all. I'm having trouble removing a Midwest Industries low-profile gas block from a complete PSA upper. I need to get the barrel nut off and I'm having no luck getting the gas block to budge.

The 3 set screws in the gas block were easy enough to remove. They were clearly cemented in, probably with some form of Loctite.

There appears to be a film of this substance between the gas block and barrel. I'm assuming I need heat to liquefy the material in order to remove the gas block.

Palmetto has not been very helpful. The guy I spoke with today could not (or perhaps would not) tell me what type of threadlocker or adhesive they are using. If I knew what it was, I could look up the temperature at which it releases.

I hit it with a propane torch for a half hour last night, to no avail.

I don't care if it's destroyed in the process, all I want is the barrel nut from this particular barrel. I could cut it off, but I would prefer to do it right if possible. You know, learnin' and stuff ...

Any thoughts? Do I need MAPP gas? Acetylene? Toss it in the oven?

[Zeake]

Tap it with brass hammer?

[MoxyDave]

Heh, thanks but I tried that. I've also slammed the living shit out of it with a steel hammer and it still won't budge.

Palmetto called me back and told me they don't use any adhesive on the gas block, and that the MI blocks are tight to begin with. The gunsmith with whom I spoke said "I wouldn't." when asked how to remove the gas block.

You know you're in murky waters when even the experts don't want to attempt what you're doing.

Guess I'll try putting the whole shebang into the freezer tonight and heating up just the gas block tomorrow. We shall see ...

[Zeake]

Do you just need the barrel nut? Order a new one.

[Road-Warrior]

Try soaking it with Koil, or several applications of Koil. If still won't break free, continue the Koil along with alternating freezer & heat.
Or as a last resort & it is damaged beyond repair, you can carefully cut it off and replace it.

[CLBME]

I realize that there isn't any type of adhesive apparently, but you might try boiling it. Rocksett requires water/boiling to loosen it. Worth a try.........?

You could also use a very delicate touch and a cut-off wheel to split the gas-block. If you get very close to the barrel, then give it a whack you may be able to split it. Obviously you just don't want to cut into the barrel.

Good luck.

[MoxyDave]

I'll try freezing/heating and boiling over the weekend.

I want the barrel nut because it's a non-standard nut used with a MI rail. I have already ordered a new one, but I like to learn from experience.

Even if I destroy the whole thing, the knowledge and experience is worth the cost to me.

Thanks for the advice guys.

[Stickman]

I would hit the block with a torch and go from there. It will loosen any solution used, and expand the block. I have to question how it was put on if it is this tight and they say they didn't use anything. Is the barrel scratched up?

[MoxyDave]

The barrel wasn't scratched up when I started. Now it looks a little beat up. I tried a propane torch for 15 minutes, going from side to side every 30 seconds or so. There was definitely <something> in there because it started to seep and smoke from the ends and the set screw holes. I suspect they doused the holes with thread sealant and it seeped into the interface from there.

I'll try freezing the whole thing and heating the block with MAPP gas next time instead of propane. My friend also has a hydraulic press we can try as a last resort, but I'm not stoked on this idea as it could be dangerous.

I may have time this weekend to try again. Thanks for the replies!

[Zeake]

I didn't think about a press and I own one. LOL I would really just take it to the press and it will come off.

[AKDoug]

Find a gunsmith with a hydraulic press. Pressing one off is super simple and pain free. Press with an aluminum block against the reciever extension, not from the muzzle end. Last resort will be a cutoff wheel on a dremel. A cut across the bottom of the gas block will relieve the tension and allow it to slip free. Go slow and you'll hardly touch the barrel.

[lamarbrog]

1. Get a block of Delrin or other tough plastic. (We use a DPMS upper block that we melted by accident freeing red LocTite on a barrel nut.)
2. Clamp the upper receiver in a firmly mounted vice on a reinforced bench using the clam shell block that Brownell's sells. Be sure to use the insert so you don't crush the receiver, you need to get it tight.
3. Remove the gas tube.
4. Warm up the gas block itself using a torch.
5. Have a friend hold the Delrin block against the gas block.
6. Beat on it as hard as you possibly can using a large hammer. (We have a giant ball-peen hammer with a solid steel handle we call the "f*** s*** up hammer" in the shop.)

Alternatively...

1. Install flash suppressor on barrel.
2. Remove barrel from upper receiver.
3. Tighten your strong vice so that it has a gap the barrel can pass through, but that the gas block cannot.
4. Place something soft on the ground under the barrel, have a friend hold the crank of the vice in place so it doesn't tighten or loosen.
5. Heat up the gas block with a torch.
5. Use above referenced hammer to beat downward against the muzzle device as hard as you can.

Never had one I couldn't get off yet. PSA is the worst about stuff being too tight. We warped an upper horribly getting a barrel nut off they put on. It was held in the proper upper block... it was the fact it took a 285lb man holding the bench itself down, and two 185lb men using a cheater bar on the barrel nut wrench that warped it. It had to have been over 200ft/lbs... just stupid.

[TripleBravo]

If they used Rockset you might have to soak it in water.

[MoxyDave]

I tried freezing the barrel and heating just the gas block this weekend. No dice. That thing is ON THERE.

I plan to try a hydraulic press later this week. Maybe it is Rocksett, but according to their gunsmith they don't use any adhesive on the gas block.

Glad to hear I'm not the only one that has had this issue with PSA hardware. I had to use a massive amount of force to release the barrel nut on this upper. I tried torquing one to 80 ft-lbs and removing it, just to see what kind of force was necessary. It was no where near the amount of force required to unsecure the PSA barrel nut. At least on this particular upper, they appear to have gone way over maximum torque spec for that part.

[MoxyDave]

Well long story short we ended up milling it off. Easier and less setup time than a press. There did not appear to be any adhesive, it was just a very tight fit. I'd like to know how the hell they put it on in the first place.

Thanks for the feedback everyone. I love how WEVO folks are so calm, capable and experienced!

[Stickman]

Makes me wonder as well.