Aluminum Barrel Vise Questions

[OTShooter]

I have two related questions. First, what is the best (simplest, neatest, cheapest, foolproof-est) way to prevent getting aluminum marks on a parkerized AR barrel when you mount the barrel in aluminum vise blocks to install/remove it or install/remove a muzzle device?

Second, once you've got aluminum marks on the barrel, what's the most effective way to remove them without messing up the barrel's finish?

The really, really old version of the Army Technical Manual I used back in the Dark Times (about 1984) to build my first AR said to use "rosin" (or maybe "resin") on the vise blocks, but frankly the kind I used (all I could find was the kind bowlers use) didn't work...really not at all. Further, I've read suggestions for cleaning aluminum off of a barrel using CLP and a bronze bore brush, or CLP and 0000 steel wool, but I'm not going to try the second method unless someone convinces me that it won't remove the parkerizing (and I'm a hard sell!).

Thanks!

[Eric]

Remove as much with solvent and light scrubbing as you can. Degrease with brake cleaner, or similar. Rub down the remaining marks with Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black. This method had worked well for me a couple times. YMMV.

[gatordev]

This is probably not the answer you want to hear, but I'll put it out there in case it helps...

I've done the aluminum block routine, and for me, I always end up having a barrel that doesn't quite fit the sizes on the block. I bought one of the 3-sized versions from Midway. I know my experience may not match what others need/have for their barrel profiles, but for me, it was an exercise in frustration. I did successfully install a barrel onto an upper and then put the muzzle device on using these, but in the process, even trying to use a thin rubber covering, I managed to scrape the finish off the barrel big time, in large part because the barrel didn't quite fit in the hole tight enough. My solution was to buy some flat black grill paint and I sprayed a coat on the barrel to cover the worn finish. This was on a Spike's 5.45 upper that had a ReV rail on it, so I wasn't all that concerned about cosmetics (to be fair, it generally wouldn't really bother me, regardless of the rifle). Since doing painting it, it's run like a top and the paint has had no issues with the heat.

After the last episode, above, I finally broke down and bought this: http://geissele.com/reactionrod.aspx

One word: Wow. It's so much easier and doesn't require you to have to break down a hand guard/rail and/or take off the gas tube to get a grip on the barrel. Just throw the rod into the barrel extension and you're done. Changing out a muzzle device was a snap (other than trying to time a Surefire brake, but I digress).

For my birthday, I asked my parents to get me the KAC version for my KAC guns. The Geissele one won't work in KAC guns (and supposedly, the opposite is true, as well). Now, several months later, it finally shipped and I'll have it next week, so I'll be able to report back on how it works, but it's the same idea and I don't expect any issues.

I know you probably already have the vise blocks, but I really found it worth buying the Geissele rod, especially knowing I'm going to change out more muzzle devices (and build another upper) in the near future.

[OTShooter]

Gator, yes, I have great blocks, but while you're right that it is usually hard to find a match between the block grooves and the barrel diameter, I've always been able to get things to work by using a smaller groove than the barrel diameter. Using a groove larger than the barrel is a guarantee of no grip and plenty of marring. Before now, everything's been either "heavy" barrels or there's been a big enough barrel section that was big enough to not give me a problem, but in this case I'm working on an M4-profile barrel, and in front of the chamber it's just a tad smaller than the "interference" fit I've depended on before.

Eric, the CLP-and-brush bit worked great. It leaves a coppery yuck when you scrub, but it comes right off and there's no aluminum left. It was actually harder to dig out an old (ready to be replaced) bore brush than to scrub all the marks off.

Now for the grip issue; I've read that powdered sugar works better than rosin. Has anyone tried that? With a solid grip on the barrel, there's less chance to smear aluminim on the barrel in the first place... Now as I mentioned above, in the past I've made things work with a smaller diameter groove and sometimes with a chunk of old garden hose split lengthwise around the barrel, but again that was with larger diameter barrels. Since I'm working on an M4 upper, I want to spend my time working on the upper, not cleaning up after myself, and I'm tired of that sore spot in the middle of my palm from cranking the vise "just a little tighter." It would be great if someone could pass on their "this works every time" technique that doesn't require me to get all new tools, and that I can get in oddly hardware-store-deficient San Antonio, Tx...

[gatordev]

Sounds like you're running into a similar issue I had, since, other than that Spike's and Centurion barrels, most of my barrels are "light weight" (Noveske, KAC, and M4) profile. For me, that was why it was worth it to grab the rod (that's what she said).

Good luck...it sounds like you're on the right track, I just got frustrated and threw money at the problem.

[dukduk]

i use lead sheets that fit in between the blocks and the barrel from brownells

[chazthebiker]

Maybe not the cheapest route, but I would forget about the barrel vise block and get this:

• AR-15 / M-16 Barrel Extension Torque Tool (Excellent)
o Brownell’s
o Part # 080-000-637
o Price: $34.99

Works like a charm, prevents damage to your parts, won't mar anything. Excellent tool!

[OTShooter]

Well I have to say that my appreciation for plain aluminum barrel vise blocks has diminished recently, because of working with M4-contour barrels. Research seems to indicate that GI "barrel fixture" blocks have a tapered groove (the TM warns to make sure you align the barrel direction correctly in the blocks), so my cylindrical grooved blocks are not adequate for barrel nut work without some considerable assistance. Since I'm now very aware of the issues with this block, I'm looking high and low for either some sort of non-slip but slightly compressible material (radiator hose comes to mind), or an actual GI barrel fixture, just to have one on hand.

Also, I found that while a bronze brush works fine on most of the barrel, I'd gotten some aluminum on a hard to reach spot near the bayonet lug. I tried a ScotchBrite pat with CLP and it worked like a charm - and was both easier to handle and faster. I hope to keep this little gem of data and never have to use it again, but I'll share as needed. ;)

[M. Gale]

Enough of the bush-league armorer stuff...


The best $99 you'll ever spend - Geissele Reaction Rod (https://www.rainierarms.com/?page=shop/detail&product_id=3645)