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DMViergever
7 November 2013, 16:14
It's no secret I am a big fan of my Adams Arms rifles but by far the biggest downfall has to be the selection of handguards. I have been running the Samson Evolution for several years now and was ready for a replacement. I was pretty excited when I saw that Fortis was coming out with their Rev line of rails in a extended and cut out version that would reach out and around the gas block and give a couple more inches of grip space.

I wasn't sure how well it would work on my rifle since I ran a pinned gas block so I made sure to call Fortis and was told it would work perfectly so I ordered one immediately. Rainier had it to my door a couple days later. As soon as I opened the box I was pretty stoked, these things look even better in person than they do in photos and the ergonomics are awesome. I already had my gas block pulled and upper waiting for this so I figured a couple minutes and I would be up running. I was wrong.

I will start by saying that the way these mount to the barrel nut is great and I always like using the standard barrel nut. What wasn't so awesome has to do with the way Fortis designed the front of the rail in the area where pins are driven. One side (ejection side) is cut out perfectly and that is the side that you drive the pins out from on my rifle. The bolt catch side is cut so that it completely blocks the pins and that causes you to have to remove the bottom part of the rail at the barrel nut and lift the rail and pull the bottom of the rail down and drive the front through the QD hole. The rear pin is blocked by one of the diagonally running pieces from the 9 O'clock rail. My rail has a large decent size groove from the pin going in twice and coming out once and has some dings where the punch slipped off. The part that is dinged up is pretty thin so be careful not to snap it The other down side to have the handguard loose is that it rubs the upper if you do not watch it. If I didn't run my stuff hard anyways I would be angry about this. When I contacted Fortis, knowing this was a new design and all, they told me that it was a situation where the graphic artists beat out the engineers and they knew this was an issue and it may be changed on the next version. This was the same person who told me it was designed to work with pinned FSB's. If you don't have pins it is a breeze to install, otherwise it is a pain.

Here is the side that is cut properly.
http://i702.photobucket.com/albums/ww27/DMViergever/CAM00168_zpsbdc9d32a.jpg (http://s702.photobucket.com/user/DMViergever/media/CAM00168_zpsbdc9d32a.jpg.html)

Here is the other side that is scarred up from the punch, you can also see the divot where the pin made a groove.
http://i702.photobucket.com/albums/ww27/DMViergever/CAM00166_zps8d81ee6e.jpg (http://s702.photobucket.com/user/DMViergever/media/CAM00166_zps8d81ee6e.jpg.html)
This is where it rubbed the upper during install.
http://i702.photobucket.com/albums/ww27/DMViergever/CAM00165_zpsd322191d.jpg (http://s702.photobucket.com/user/DMViergever/media/CAM00165_zpsd322191d.jpg.html)

As far as general use and ergonomics go it is ok. The feel in the hand is awesome and handled great and was very comfortable both with and without gloves in the recent advanced carbine class I took.

The cut off height where it is cleared for a gas block or front sight is perfect. It isn't too high or low and allowed for easy adjustment of the piston system, this was one thing I wasn't crazy about with the Evo, especially when wearing gloves. I don't mind the continuous lower rail on this handguard although that has been a complaint by others who have ran my rifle. What I don't like is that they do keymod all along the side except for out at the end where you are actually most likely to attach something. Out there they decided to but about two inches of rail at the 6 and 9 with a QD cup at the very end.

The QD cups are an awesome touch and there are a total of four. One on each side of the handguard right by the upper receiver and then one on each side at the end of the rail sections. All 4 are anti rotation, which is again a good touch. Where I feel they went wrong is putting a QD cup in front of a rail section. This means if you decide to mount a light at either of those points and want to run your 2pt sling at the end it blocks your light...if you can even access the cup. I run a 6PX Tactical on the rail section in a Thorntail mount that puts the light at 11. Even still the QD cup is so close to the mount that it is not possible to get the sling swivel in there, rendering it completely useless and still have to run a RSA.

Here is a photo of the cup that is blocked by the rail. It does not actually go all the way in but is just resting there so you can see how it hits the light mount.
http://i702.photobucket.com/albums/ww27/DMViergever/CAM00163_zpsdb8ecdee.jpg (http://s702.photobucket.com/user/DMViergever/media/CAM00163_zpsdb8ecdee.jpg.html)

When I mentioned that to them in the same conversation he informed me that he never used the furthest out QD cups on his rail and when choosing a handguard he went with a full keymod model and had a keymod sling swivel. Which means he isn't using a Fortis, which speaks volumes. He also said that they develop and design these things to fit the masses and that was the beauty of revisions and gen II models.

As much as I like the looks and ergonomics of this handguard it is honestly not what I was hoping for and left me wanting more. As nice as the guy running the phone and E-mail was some of the simple things that they could have changed would have made this particular model right from the start and knowing that function was given up for form, possibly multiple times, makes me wonder if it was given up in other areas. I don't mind answers like "We've had so much T&E with a lot of different sectors and departments that this was the general consensus" but at least provide a reason or why it would function better instead of a white washed generally bland answer.

In the end if you want a easy to install handguard with a pinned FSB I believe you will be waiting for a revised model. If cutouts aren't your thing and you run a low profile gas block then this may be a perfect option for you if the function problems I mentioned don't bother you.

I realize that with my chosen set up there tends to be some give and take but in the mean time I will keep running the Rev Car9 as I prefer it to the Samson and hope one of these days a good company makes a version with function over form in mind.

http://i702.photobucket.com/albums/ww27/DMViergever/CAM00162_zpsd3621a74.jpg (http://s702.photobucket.com/user/DMViergever/media/CAM00162_zpsd3621a74.jpg.html)

UWone77
7 November 2013, 16:25
I think I saw your review on M4C... very fair and objective review. Thanks for sharing here.

DMViergever
7 November 2013, 16:41
Yeah I posted it on several forums. Sometimes I forget about a forum and then pop in and decide to post it up. I always try and put some time into my reviews and make them as objective as possible. Thanks!

UWone77
7 November 2013, 17:20
Nice setup though.

I really like my Centurion Arms Mid-Cutout, and the newer version will accommodate a piston kit.

DMViergever
7 November 2013, 19:07
Thanks. It is a 10.5 Rainier Ultramatch, Noveske Upper, LMT charging handle, Les Baer MPI HPT bolt, Umbrella Corp grip 23, KNS antiwalk pins, A2 buffer, larue handstop, Thorntail mount with a 6px Tactical.

Suppressor is Griffin Armament.

KevinBLC
8 November 2013, 16:39
What kind of groups are you getting with the Ultra Match? How is the Griffin Can? I've heard good stuff, but not sure they are as good as say AAC or SF?

DMViergever
8 November 2013, 21:57
Haven't even shot it for groups yet. I will hopefully get to it this week but I have been super busy as of late. I have a box of Winchester 55 grain target ammo, hornady 68 grain, some ram 64. I need to find some 75 grain stuff.

The can is good. It is the M4SD original and is about 3 years old. I have about 5K through it and like it a lot. I had it at a suppressor shoot back when the m4-2K was new and everyone there seemed to think mine was more quiet and comfortable to the ear. Griffin has better modelsout tthese days. I have oneof their .22 cans and it brings the heat,

KevinBLC
9 November 2013, 16:06
Thanks for the info, that's a great looking build and I may have to put together something similar eventually. The Griffin is underrated from what I hear. I think the only thing I would change is maybe a Scout light instead.

DMViergever
9 November 2013, 18:29
Yeah I dig my Griffin stuff. I have thought about going to an Inforce WML but doubt I will. The 6PX was just a EDC light that held up really well so I knew it was worthy to be on the rifle.

KevinBLC
10 November 2013, 18:16
Maybe I missed it, but what Griffin muzzle device are you using?

DMViergever
13 November 2013, 07:35
A2 flash hider. Eats them up pretty quick so cheap is nice.

UWone77
3 December 2013, 15:55
I wanted to revisit this thread as I recently installed a Fortis Carbine Cutout on an old upper. There definitely needs to be a revision in the rail to allow clearance for the front sight pins to be driven back into the barrel. Without it, it's going to be very difficult to either get the pins driven back in all the way, or not serious scratch your rail. The latter isn't too important to me, but this install isn't for the novice user.

From this view you can see there is no clearance if you line up the rail and upper.

http://i1016.photobucket.com/albums/af282/richdkim77/1488197_581128835292574_1359314805_n_zpsc830e3d0.j pg (http://s1016.photobucket.com/user/richdkim77/media/1488197_581128835292574_1359314805_n_zpsc830e3d0.j pg.html)

DMViergever
18 December 2013, 04:16
Much better picture than mine. I have been collecting stuff to make a little photography area in the basement, just need to figure what I want to do for lighting.

Mine has certainly gained more scratches, as I knew it would. That part didn't bother me as much because if I would've taken my time or used a brass punch it could have been avoided. The problem was that it was a huge P.I.T.A and they KNEW it but produced it because it looked cool. Anyone who asks me about the cut out version is told to run if they are pinned.

That sucks because the rail has great ergos and feel. It also fits my hand better than a tube.