Flash Hider Installation Question

[FortTom]

This probably should be under the "You REALLY had to ask?" thread, but I'll ask anyway (go ahead and snicker, I can't see you anyway[:)]. I just recently finished a gun, but purchased a complete upper, rather than piece one together. It's a BCM BFH 16", although I don't think that matters. My question is this. For the kind of money they charge, I'd would have thought they could installed an upgraded flash hider. No go. I don't know who makes theirs, but it's basically a bird cage.

I'd like to remove it and replace it with a proven design that is very effective in reducing flash, but, wanting to take the easy way out, do I have to disassemble the upper and use a barrel vise to secure the barrel, while removing and installing the flash hiders. Common sense tells me yes, but maybe someone has another solution?

As always, thanks ahead for your help,

FT

[Iraqgunz]

What kind of muzzle device did you expect? Just curious because although it isn't spelled out, the picture clearly shows an A2 flash hider and in fact the A2 flash hider is almost a universal industry standard.

Now to the question. You will need at a minimum an upper receiver vise block commonly referred to as a clam-shell. I have done hundreds if not thousands of flash hiders this way with no adverse affects. You will also need an armorer wrench or a Hammerhead Rifle Tool. You will also need a new crush washer unless the new muzzle device includes it.


This probably should be under the "You REALLY had to ask?" thread, but I'll ask anyway (go ahead and snicker, I can't see you anyway[:)]. I just recently finished a gun, but purchased a complete upper, rather than piece one together. It's a BCM BFH 16", although I don't think that matters. My question is this. For the kind of money they charge, I'd would have thought they could installed an upgraded flash hider. No go. I don't know who makes theirs, but it's basically a bird cage.

I'd like to remove it and replace it with a proven design that is very effective in reducing flash, but, wanting to take the easy way out, do I have to disassemble the upper and use a barrel vise to secure the barrel, while removing and installing the flash hiders. Common sense tells me yes, but maybe someone has another solution?

As always, thanks ahead for your help,

FT

[FortTom]

A friend of mine has a B.E. Meyer flash hider. I know he's had that gun for at least a year, so I searched, and found them and they are still in business. In dim light, the difference between his and mine is mind blowing. There really is no comparison between the two. I did not want to put a lot of torque on the barrel and risk damaging it, that's why I asked. Unfortunately, the only certified armorer nearby went to prison. (Yeah really, for knowingly selling to felons). I might find someone in Cincy OH. (Closest nearby big city), to do it for me. Thanks for your help.

FT

[Iraqgunz]

A2 flash hiders are not torqued. You simply put the crush washer on and compress it until the flash hider is indexed or timed. Generally speaking a normal gunsmith could do this task. I think I know place not too far away that can do it.


A friend of mine has a B.E. Meyer flash hider. I know he's had that gun for at least a year, so I searched, and found them and they are still in business. In dim light, the difference between his and mine is mind blowing. There really is no comparison between the two. I did not want to put a lot of torque on the barrel and risk damaging it, that's why I asked. Unfortunately, the only certified armorer nearby went to prison. (Yeah really, for knowingly selling to felons). I might find someone in Cincy OH. (Closest nearby big city), to do it for me. Thanks for your help.

FT

[Stickman]

Iraqgunz gives great advise. Get a vise block and an armorers tool. I use the clam shell block from Brownells.

[Judicator]

Same here. Even though I live in the great state on MA, I just use the clamshell like the others. I crank it on then I get to SOLDER yay!


Posted while my co-worker is getting electrocuted.

[FortTom]

Thanks to all. I realize the flash hider does not need to be torqued. What I was referring to was the amount of torque I would be putting on the barrel while loosening it (the A2 Hider), and tightening the new hider, if you see what I mean. Apparently though, this is not an issue. I already have an armorer's tool, just need to get a receiver block. Thanks again for your advice, I suppose this will be a no brainer. Just trying to avoid one of those awwwwwwwww shiiiiiiiiii-----!!!! days.:o


FT

[John Moses]

Let us know what you decide on. IMO the A2 is one of the best Flash Hiders available, and it cost less than $10. I use the clam shell vice block made of Delrin (sp) and it works well. If you are doing a ton of them, the Gieselle torqu bar is the best way to do it. When using the Clam shell make sure to install the tube looking part inside the upper where the BCG goes, as you can crack the upper, although I have never seen it happen.

As far as flash hiders go, if you want ZERO flash, and shoot at night then the BE Meyers, A2, AAC Blackout, and Smith Vortex all work very well. I posted a video for you to see the differences.

http://vuurwapenblog.com/2013/10/03/ar15-muzzle-brakeflash-hidercompensator-comparison-part-1/

[FortTom]

John, thanks for the reply and link. I've been shooting "A2" or standard issue flash hiders since I joined the military in 75. I respectfully disagree that the A2 is one of the best flash hiders available. Even at it's nominal cost. I had actually never heard of B.E. Meyers until a friend pulled one out on an AR he built, I'm thinking a little over a year ago. I guess the reason I never heard of them, is that mostly everythinig they sell, laser's and other military hardware, was only available to Govt., LEO.. etc. until not so long ago, according to their website. Mostly flash hiders for 5.56, 7.62 and .50 cal. are available for public consumption.

He has a huge pile of Rail Road ties stacked behind his barn to shoot into. We went just at dark, I took one of mine, and he brought the weapon with the $125 dollar flash hider, he had mounted on his to prove to me it was worth that much. Mine produced the normal "fire ball", while his was barely noticeable. The difference was amazing, at least in my opinion. I'm only going to install one, on a rifle that I would much more likely to be used at night.

I can't really prove my claims in a paragraph in a post, I guess you'd have to see it for yourself, to believe the difference.

So that's why I'd really like to have one. Many manufacturers of flash hiders make some lofty claims, and they may all be true, I don't know, but I saw this with my own eyes, which made me an instant believer. And $20 lighter for the case of beer I had to buy for calling B.S. on his claims.[BD]

Thanks again,
FT.