Best Light for AR15

[GOST]

What's you favorite light for an AR-15? I personally like the Surefire M300B. Here are some other canidates:
Inforce WML
Surefire X300
Elzetta
Streamlight TRL-1

[UWone77]

Hands down the M300B or M600C for me. I really love scout lights.

I think Elzetta makes the best light on the market, but their weapon mounted systems need improvement. Until Elzetta makes a dedicated weapon light, I will have to keep using Surefire Scouts. INFORCE also gets an honorable mention.

[AaronP220]

I'm running a Scout and I absolutely love it. I was surprised with how light it was, too. Get it? Punny.

[gatordev]

I've configured several rifles with the WML and some Haley Strategic mounts running them at the 11 o'clock on some extended handguards. With my long arms, I've liked the position, but I haven't been able to really wring them out. Hopefully after I move and get settled, I can take a low-light course and see what I think.

That said, what I have found out about the WML on the HS mounts is that they "slip" ever so slightly when you push the PTS button. It's not the end of the world, but there is slight movement when you want to activate the light. This is with three different mounts and the same light.

[GOST]

I'm running a Scout and I absolutely love it. I was surprised with how light it was, too. Get it? Punny.

Funny

[FortTom]

I just (based on recommendations here) purchased an Inforce WML White/Momentary. Truthfully, there's not a lot I can do to test it out, but walk around the house with the light on, or when the weather warms up this spring, take it to my buddy's farm, a pretty good drive from here, and set some targets against a back stop he has. Or take a "low light" course. But I can say this, it's lightweight, 3oz. W/battery, and has a simple to attach and remove mounting system.

It feels sturdy, and has two "safeties" to keep you from accidently hitting the momentary (only) switch. I was only planning on leaving it on one the rifles for SD around the house. paid $113 from optics planet.

I doubt if any serious "operator' would want one, but I feel it's quite adequate for SD around the house, with the caveat that I am by no means an expert on the subject, like I said, I bought it after asking a similar question here on the forum. But after seeing how quickly I can identify a "target" and just simply let go of the button, and kill the light, extremely fast, I'm quite happy with it.

They also have the same light with more options, with the price starting a little higher than I paid and going up from there.

FT.

[skd_tactical]

Another vote for the sure fire scout lights. They have been on my personal and work weapons for years and still work despite all the stupid stuff I tend to do. Light, bright as the sun, and tough as nails. I don't need to look any further.

SOS

[GOST]

Anyone have experience with a X300 Utra, and how does it compare to a M300B?

[skd_tactical]

I have an ultra and while I hate pressure switches, my opinion is that to mount the x300u on a rifle, it needs the pressure switch. Preferably mounted on the top rail. The x300 series is too easy to accidentally activate. Great light, I have them on all my pistols.

SOS

[Eric]

You can't go wrong with the SF lights, but honorable mention goes to the Streamlight TLR1 HL. At 630 lumens, there's output to spare. I've heard some comments that nobody needs that much output, but especially in an outdoor setting, I've found that to be inaccurate. They are commonly found around $130. They are more prone to accidental activation that some other designs, so I might try one with a remote pressure switch as well.

[WARRIOR84]

+1 for the inforce it takes one CR123 it's 200 lumens it's light compact and hasn't failed me yet. Mine is running in the Haley strategic thorn tail mount.

[Airman596]

I'm a really big fan of the Inforce WML. It lights up a larger area around the center of the beam compared to my Surefires. Travis Haley has a good video where he describes the benefits to the WML as well as general information about weapon lights:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V78tH6aVpuM

[Airman596]

I just (based on recommendations here) purchased an Inforce WML White/Momentary. Truthfully, there's not a lot I can do to test it out, but walk around the house with the light on, or when the weather warms up this spring, take it to my buddy's farm, a pretty good drive from here, and set some targets against a back stop he has. Or take a "low light" course. But I can say this, it's lightweight, 3oz. W/battery, and has a simple to attach and remove mounting system.

It feels sturdy, and has two "safeties" to keep you from accidently hitting the momentary (only) switch. I was only planning on leaving it on one the rifles for SD around the house. paid $113 from optics planet.

I doubt if any serious "operator' would want one, but I feel it's quite adequate for SD around the house, with the caveat that I am by no means an expert on the subject, like I said, I bought it after asking a similar question here on the forum. But after seeing how quickly I can identify a "target" and just simply let go of the button, and kill the light, extremely fast, I'm quite happy with it.

They also have the same light with more options, with the price starting a little higher than I paid and going up from there.

FT.

Why would a "serious operator" not want a WML over a Surefire, for example? Every ounce of weight counts and the weight (or lack of weight) of the WML is a real benefit without sacrificing durability.

[GOST]

The Inforce WML is a really good product for the price.

[FortTom]

Why would a "serious operator" not want a WML over a Surefire, for example? Every ounce of weight counts and the weight (or lack of weight) of the WML is a real benefit without sacrificing durability.
Maybe they would. At the time I posted that I basically had about zero time with a light. I was just going off of comments on this forum when I bought it. I've since bought another.
However, as I'm sure you know, some of the lights that I read about LE (especially) and other tactical users, trained and who operate in situations that almost demand a light, well they have multiple features and options, compared to my Inforce WML's which only have a momentary push button, either an on or off proposition. I like mine for my use, primarily in the house and a perimeter directly around the house. Also like the fact that it weighs 3oz, w/battery installed.

But I'd have to guess that the professional would require all the extra features and mounting options, tape switches and all those options that come with those lights that start in the $250 - $300 range and go up from there.

As for me, my simple Inforce lights work. But probably not for the Pro. My only real "night time live fire" was in the MIL and the only "lights" were tracers. In the years since, I know that their mission requirements and tools have changed.

I would though, like to take a civilian "low light" course if I could only find one near me. Then, as I gained more knowledge, I might stay with what I have, or determine that I might need or want more functionality. Don't know.[:D]

FT

[DMViergever]

Here is a article I just wrote for Guns & Tactics on this very light. I am using the KM 45 degree mount but they also make a rail mount version. I run it at 11 also, this way when shooting around barriers or using the junkyard technique the light clears first with no splash back. The WML was designed with operators in mind.

http://www.gunsandtactics.com/the-hsp-thorntail-and-inforce-wml

I have another write up based on the WML and the ideas I mentioned above as far as mounting and use goes. It won'tbe on G&T but will be on my site as well as posted in the forums.

[Hmac]

You can't go wrong with the SF lights, but honorable mention goes to the Streamlight TLR1 HL. At 630 lumens, there's output to spare. I've heard some comments that nobody needs that much output, but especially in an outdoor setting, I've found that to be inaccurate. They are commonly found around $130. They are more prone to accidental activation that some other designs, so I might try one with a remote pressure switch as well.

I don't keep a light mounted on any of my rifles, but I have a TLR-1s that I keep in the safe and can mount on my Walther or at the 12:00 position on my SBR. I also have a Brownell's light on a VLTOR QD mount.

[LMMzach]

I like my inforce feels really natural. Not sure how it holds up haven't got to use it to much. Have a surefire x300 on my pistol and it's really bright.

[MoxyDave]

I've been using the Haley WML for some time now with a Thorntail mount. It's a good setup. The light is a little weird sometimes however, it seems to flicker every so often, like it's about to go out - but it never does. I suspect I have an early model where they hacked the electronics to get 200 lumens out and it wasn't 100% ready for prime time ... still, it works.

[Airman596]

I've been using the Haley WML for some time now with a Thorntail mount. It's a good setup. The light is a little weird sometimes however, it seems to flicker every so often, like it's about to go out - but it never does. I suspect I have an early model where they hacked the electronics to get 200 lumens out and it wasn't 100% ready for prime time ... still, it works.

How do you like the Thorntail mount? I have a Thorntail on order with IWC. I plan to use one with my SCAR to mount a WML to the top rail.

[MoxyDave]

Kind of expensive for what it does, but it's nice that you can dial in exactly where you want the light. It puts a WML at a good angle for easy activation.

[GOST]

For those running Geissele SMR rails with Surefire Scouts, you might want to check out Geissele's mounts.

http://geissele.com/accessories/super-modular-rail-accessories/surefire-scout-light-mount-kit.html

[rob_s]

For a gun that's intended as and indoor gun, I like everything about the Surefire x300.

For the mythological "general purpose" I'm all about the two cell Scout light, although I've never had to pay for one so the price may well be a non-starter.

Either way, I'm a big fan of putting lights on some sort of QD mounts. I don't want to go running around with a light Ina class or match if I don't have to.

[rob_s]

I am also playing with the Rosch SL1, which I like in concept but am having some struggles getting it zeroed because it doesn't have clicks in the adjustment.

http://www.roschworks.com/

[Aragorn]

I am also playing with the Rosch SL1, which I like in concept but am having some struggles getting it zeroed because it doesn't have clicks in the adjustment.

http://www.roschworks.com/

Rob can you keep us up to date on that? Right now the SL1 is on my short "To buy" list.

[Slippers]

I am also playing with the Rosch SL1, which I like in concept but am having some struggles getting it zeroed because it doesn't have clicks in the adjustment.

http://www.roschworks.com/

Yes, agreed. I ended up using a paint pen on the sight adjustment tool that lines up with one of the flats on the sight post to make it a bit easier to tell how far I was adjusting it.

I've had my SL1 since it was released. It works great, is plenty bright and durable through minor abuse. I've been using more and more magnified optics lately, so I may end up going back to a surefire scout, but otherwise no complaints.

[rob_s]

Yes, agreed. I ended up using a paint pen on the sight adjustment tool that lines up with one of the flats on the sight post to make it a bit easier to tell how far I was adjusting it.

I've had my SL1 since it was released. It works great, is plenty bright and durable through minor abuse. I've been using more and more magnified optics lately, so I may end up going back to a surefire scout, but otherwise no complaints.


The problem I'm having with the adjustment is that sometimes the wrench isn't even making contact with he flats, so I can turn the wrench and watch an index mark but it may or may not be turning the post.

I'm sure that most of my problems are user error, but when I have other options that don't have those issues it's hard to make a change.

I've had other issues with mine, like the front end (I've been told it's not then"bezel" but that's what I would call it) coming loose in my bad and not allowing the batteries to make contact. I think it's great in theory but right now it's causing me to invest in too much fiddle-fart when I have other, albeit standalone, options that give me the results I want, especially the ability to remove the light from the gun entirely.

[Slippers]

Your post made me curious about the bezel so I just went and checked mine. It was very loose. I suspect another day at the range would have resulted in it becoming inoperable. I've never taken the light apart, so either it wasn't tightened very well when shipped from Rosch, or it loosened up from the last few hundred rounds. Hmmm!