AR Light & Mount

[hg8057]

I'll be finishing a build in the next couple of days and am now thinking of adding a light/mount. My forend is a keymod free float. I've looked at the different options for lights and mounts and I'm stumped. How does one make a decision on which product to buy? I'm probably going to keep it simple by choosing a light that (at most) has high, low, and strobe output with tailcap activation only. The pressure switches with their wires don't appeal to me at all. Thinking it through, it seems like the light choice will be a choice based on cost and quality given the attributes I'm looking for. The mount is a different story. With the staggering amount of options, how do you winnow the field down?

[UWone77]

I think the important question here is, what's your budget?

Bang for the buck, I'd try out an INFORCE WML. They are around $125.

No tape switches, and attaches directly to the rail. You'll have to add a piece of rail to a KeyMod at this point to attach it as no KeyMod direct attach is available at this point.

[hg8057]

I think the important question here is, what's your budget?

At this point I'm thinking I'd like to keep it at $150ish for the light and mount with an absolute ceiling of $200.

The Inforce looks like it's a good option for me.

[GOST]

On that budget I would go Inforce also. I think they have a new 500 lumen offering.

[Thompson]

Since we're talking about WML's, Haley Strategic also has their own special version, the Inforce WML-HSP. It's spec'ed at 200 lumen momentary on only; $119 (Inforce WML-HSP (http://www.haleystrategic.com/wml/)). Throw in another $50 will get you a Haley Strategic Thorntail Offset mount (Thorntail Offset (http://www.haleystrategic.com/store/thorntail_offset.php))

[2ATA]

Surefire Fury 500 lumen around $115.00 vikiing tactics mount is about $20.00. That's what I run on all my AR's and SCAR's.

[hg8057]

Thanks folks. Plenty of helpful ideas/info. I appreciate it.

[tappedandtagged]

I'm running a Streamlight Polytac LED ($50) in an Elzetta ZRX mount. In the future I do plan on getting a light with more throw and the Noveske Keymod direct attach light mount. My current setup was well priced and works well, but I find it lacking for those midnight 75 yard long shots on a feral pig.

[UWone77]

Not a fan of mounts like the Thorntail. They don't hold up when dropped. Ask me how I know this...

[Thompson]

Not a fan of mounts like the Thorntail. They don't hold up when dropped. Ask me how I know this...
Very well - how do you know this? [BD]

[jjl103]

I currently have an Inforce WML mounted to an HSP Thorntail. I believe the Thorntail comes in a keymod version as well. I'm not sure about exactly how durable it is, but it has held up fairly well on my rifle. I currently have mine mounted to the top rail on a CMR, just in front of the front sight. The angle of the light and placement of the button in this configuration make operation just a matter of moving my thumb.

With this setup in mind, you could also mount the Inforce directly to the top rail and completely forget about adding an additional mount for the keymod. My only hangup with this has been the placement of the button in relation to the front sight. Things are a bit tight, and when running with flip up sights, mashing the momentary on button might be a bit tricky.

[RiverRat]

Hg -

First, are you thinking of a standard 1" host light, a dedicated weapon light, or you're not sure?

If you're considering something that moves between carbine and pistol (e.g., Surefire Ultra 300 or Streamlight TLR-1/TLR-1s/TRL-1 HL), then you've already made a de facto choice on both mounting. Sure, you could add a 45 degree rail section for one of these re-purposed handgun lights, but it seems to me that the flavor of the day mounting (top rail on the muzzle side of the front BUIS) makes more sense than adding weight and creating oblique shadows.

For anything else, mounting is trying to strike a balance between minimizing shadows in your target area, ease of actuation and rock-solid mounting. For instance, I would mount a Surefire 6PX Tactical (rotate tailcap for on) differently from a 6PX Defender (clicky tailcap for on), since latching the light in the on position is such a different movement with a rotating switch. Its not quite all personal preference, but what is most comfortable for you with the particular light you've picked has to play into the selection.

So I suggest selecting a light based on what you think is most important (multiplatform use, flood for CQB vs. throw for outdoor use, actuation type). If you want help with that, we can make suggestions, but you'll have to offer up some information on how you expect to use the light when its on the carbine (indoor defense, suburban vs rural, you have bad nightvision, whatever). If the light that ends up in your possession is designed as a typical WML, just try a few rail sections on your handguard to see what feels natural. If it's a 1" host light, spend as little as possible on your first mount and get a feel for what works for you.

I'll catch flak for this on a high-end firearms forum, but here's what I suggest:

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41A-w%2BgKjiL.jpg

It costs about $6 delivered from Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/Generic-Offset-Mount-Flashlight-Laser/dp/B007JPJKUU/ref=pd_sbs_sg_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0TMZ47BBVHX9MDCCVZP3.). Yes, it's bulky and a bit heavy, but it's more robust than you might expect (yes, I have one and its even still mounted on a carbine).

If you put this budget mount on a 9 o'clock rail section, it locates a typical 1" host's tailcap with reasonable reach of your thumb. Ultimately, for the cost of one beer in a bar, you can have an item that will help you understand what you like in mounting location. It's disposable in the long run. Heck, you might even find that you don't like the light you bought and want to try a different option - then you'll have potentially saved the cost of more expensive mount.

After a little experimentation, you can start the search from a more informed perspective.

[UWone77]

Very well - how do you know this? [BD]

Unfortunately, my rifle slipped out of my hand last year when I had a Thorntail mount of it, and it didn't survive the concrete.

OP,

There are many options out there. Personally, I like Gear Sector Mounts. My favorite combo would be a Surefire M300B or 600C on a Gear Sector Mount. Spendy, but worth it to me. INFORCE comes in a close second as it's a great option at the 12'clock position. You may also consider a Surefire X300 at the 12'clock position as well. If you look around you can find some good deals on a non-Ultra X300.

[RiverRat]

I'm running a Streamlight Polytac LED ($50) in an Elzetta ZRX mount. In the future I do plan on getting a light with more throw and the Noveske Keymod direct attach light mount. My current setup was well priced and works well, but I find it lacking for those midnight 75 yard long shots on a feral pig.

I would think so, 275 lumens at 9500 candela suggests a very floody beam pattern. If you like that light's general design (and price point), Streamlight produces a variant with the same runtime and lumen output, but about 50% greater throw distance (19000 candela). Its called the PolyTac HP - it would set you back about $45 new.

[hg8057]

RiverRat,
I'm wanting a light for my rifle exclusively. My primary intended usage is home defense with a secondary of suburban SHTF. I'm limited by cost (absolute maximum of $200), and something very simple to operate. Several in this thread have suggested an Inforce WML. I'm leaning that way right now. By no means have I decided yet though.

[RiverRat]

My primary intended usage is home defense with a secondary of suburban SHTF. I'm limited by cost (absolute maximum of $200), and something very simple to operate.

hg -

I'm not a tactical guy and haven't done night weapons training, but I've spent a lot of time using current generation LED-driven lights and I'm comfortable sharing my decidedly practical use perspectives.

Shortish answer


Your primary need (indoor, close range) suggests a modest output, semi-floody light - the WML fits that description very well. If you like the mounting, switch and ergonomics, it is a reasonable, moderate cost solution.

If your suburban environment includes some rougher terrain, I would opt for the dual output, standard switch model. I know the HSP-stamped momentary version is intended to maintain better light discipline and is therefore more tactically sound. But having used a carbine-mounted light in "practical" outdoor use, latching low output can be a blessing; it aids in navigating through obstacles; lower output (latched or momentary) is less disruptive to night vision and driving at lower current greatly extends run time. Your needs and approach might vary, that's just my experience.

If you were considering frequent outdoor use beyond 30 yards, I would steer clear of any 1xCR123 driven light (like the Inforce). It's just plain tough to get enough throw and run time from a single cell.



Long addendum to shortish answer: Other cost-effective options to consider, all of which require a 1" mount:


The Surefire 6PX Defender might be worth a look. Its beam will be much more focused than the Inforce (longer throw, brighter hotspot, less spill) with a much longer run time. I recommend the Defender line only because it has a forward clicky tailcap that activates high output - that's great for simple carbine use.

If you're trying to save a few more dollars, Surefire offers a Nitrolon version of the same llights called the G2X. They don't offer a good clicky (Defender) model of G2X, so factory options are limited to the Tactical model's push-momentary, twist-on actuation or procuring a clicky tailcap.

For higher-output lights that can fill the same niche, I tend to really like 2xCR123A hosts with Cree XM-L2 emitters. Most offer around 600 lumens of cool tinted (high contrast) light with enough spill for fast object recognition, manageable hot spots and enough throw to be versatile outdoors. I completely understand some folks' reservations about tossing that much light around indoors, but it's not a concern I share. If it's a problem, most of these light offer low output setting and/or ship with diffusers, IMO offering the "best of both worlds."

The ones I would put at the top of the list are the EagleTac T20C2 Mk II and the Olight M20SX. I have lights from both manufacturers (a T20C2 sits on a 14.5" carbine right now) and they've been 100% reliable. While it doesn't use an XM-L2 emitter, the Surefire Fury Defender or BCM's exclusive EAG Fury fall in the same genre (though with a larger bezel, no low mode output and greater weight.)

Hope I didn't add to confusion with the suggestions. After you select a light, then it's simply a question of finding a bombproof mount that puts your light in a position you like.

Regards,
D.

[Hmac]

I don't keep a light on any of my rifles, only attach one if I need it. I mostly use a Streamlight TLR-1s, mounting 12:00 it on the end of the rail if and when I need it, same light I use on my PPQ. I also have a Brownell's 530 lumen light with tail cap switch on a VLTOR QD mount that I put on the thing occasionally.

[hg8057]

I went with the Inforce WML 200 lumen (high, low, strobe). I mounted it at 9:00 with a flat keymod rail section that came with my handguard. There's a bit of a muzzle/barrel shadow thrown to the right so I plan on adding a IWC Keymod Thorntail mount (and hope I don't drop it!!!). That should drop the shadow down enough not to be a distraction.

[Naytwan]

I'm using an inforce WML and a keymod thorntail. Works very well. I'm very happy with the combo.

[cma g21]

AIM has the 500 Lumen SUREFIRE P2X Fury Tactical on sale for $89.98 with free shipping.

[browcs]

AIM has the 500 Lumen SUREFIRE P2X Fury Tactical on sale for $89.98 with free shipping.

Thanks for the heads up.