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aatheiss
2 October 2014, 14:30
Back Story:
I recently went nuts and spent a bit of money building a 300 BLK pistol. I was about half way through the build when I started looking at ammo prices, at which point I decided I needed to finally get into reloading.

What I started with:
Some time ago, my dad was given part of a Lee Loadmaster setup. He got the press, 2 5-hole die holders, a couple of shell plates, and assorted small parts. He just let it sit in the garage for the longest time, and didn't show any signs of using it, so with his permission I took it off his hands.

Where I'm at now:
I've ordered some of the things I need to get started, including Lee's 3-die set for 300 BLK, a Lee depriming die, the correct shell plate (I think... explained below), case prep tools, and the small primer feed system for the Loadmaster. I also have 1 box of 150gr bullets (I don't remember which ones right off hand), two kinds of IMR powder, and 400 CCI Small Rifle Primers. I've been collecting .223/5.56 brass for a little while, I figure I have a few hundred casings, maybe as much as 1000. I also bought a 2" chop saw to cut the .223 brass.

The shell plate I ordered is different than the plates that I got with the press. The new one has a kind of star-shaped lug on the bottom to contact the indexer. The other two have 5 individual lugs evenly spaced. The new plate's center hole is deeper than the other two, and so it engages more of the center post on the carrier. The new plate will not fully seat onto the carrier, and won't even rotate when I try to force it on. I don't want to try and drill or file either part, because I know I'll ruin the alignment by doing so. Fortunately, a new carrier isn't expensive, and since the old one has a crack where the priming lever is attached, I went ahead and ordered a new one.

I've also completely disassembled the press and thoroughly cleaned it, and applied some Hoppe's gun lube to the shaft and bearings. I'll be getting some grease and an oil can to properly lube everything before putting it to use.


What I still need:
I need to acquire a powder system, which I'm basically set on the Pro Auto Disk, a rifle charging die, a jig for cutting .223 brass, a tumbler, and a reloading manual, along with more knowledge. Also, I will be either building a new bench, or adding onto the one build into my garage to create a reloading space. Eventually I'll get the parts to do other calibers, and I need to get a chrono to properly work up some good loads. For now, so long as I stay within the guidelines of various manuals, I figure I'll be ok.

It'll probably be another month or two before I load my first bullet, but I certainly look forward to seeing if I can save money over buying 300 BLK factory ammo!

aatheiss
6 October 2014, 10:24
I got the new carrier and small primer feed system in over the weekend. Everything fits perfectly, and I've been testing the function with very few problems.

I also started work on a sort of bench/table top that I can bolt the press onto. My garage space doesn't allow for a new work bench, so I'm taking a couple pieces of ply wood, screwed them together, and once I bolt the press on, I plan to simply clamp the assembly to my existing bench. This way I can keep my work space available when I'm not reloading.

I was hoping I would be able to get away with using Lee's universal depriming die, but I was taking another look at everything, and my 300 BLK pistol likes to beat the brass up a little when ejecting. The mouth of every case is somewhat flattened on one side. The universal die doesn't round the mouth out, or at least not that I can tell. I think what I'll end up having to do is use the universal die by itself to deprime all my .223/5.56 brass before sizing them, and then use the sizing/depriming die for the actual reloading process. I've read there can be issues being set up this way. If I run into any, I may add in the universal die and take out the depriming punch out of the sizing die. Hopefully, if I have to do it that way, the flattened mouths won't be an issue. (If anyone has had experience with this situation, please let me know what you did to solve it!)

Hopefully after the next paycheck I'll have enough to get a tumbler, so I can get some brass ready to go. It'll probably be a month or so before I can get the powder system, though. I'm not being very patient with this, but I can't spend money I don't have!

aatheiss
15 October 2014, 08:30
I ended up selling some extra .22lr ammo I had stockpiled before the craze. This got me some money to buy a tumbler, sifter, and brass polish. They arrived yesterday, and I did a test run with 20 pieces of brass I had already cut and formed. Everything seems to work well, so I'll be working on cutting and forming the majority of the .223 brass I have saved up. I'm keeping some to eventually reload .223, but I can get factory ammo cheap enough that I'm not gonna worry about reloading it any time soon.

The table setup I have works fairly well, except when I'm forming the new shoulder from cut .223 brass, the force I have to put on the lever moves the clamped wood off of my bench. I'll probably end up either having to put a screw into the bench, or figure out another way to clamp the press down. I need to figure it out before I really get going.

UWone77
15 October 2014, 08:33
I'm curious to see what the savings are. I'm shooting 300 BLK, but not as much as I used to because of cost/availability. I still have a few thousand rounds stockpiled, and still buy a box or two when I see it. I just don't like paying .80 cents a round for plinking ammo and $1+ for subs. I don't usually let people shoot my 300 anymore because it costs $20 to shoot a mag.

Dstrbdmedic167
15 October 2014, 11:43
UW, I just finished loading 250 rds of 190gr subs last night. I already had/converted the brass. So loaded cost is $.35/rd.

Cost breakdown-

$.05/rd of powder
$.04 per primer
$.26 per bullet

I rounded up the cost of each item as well so this is a high end cost analysis. Yes I have the cost of the equipment but I don't count that because it's already paid for itself 10x over...

tcoz
19 October 2014, 03:41
I'm curious to see what the savings are. I'm shooting 300 BLK, but not as much as I used to because of cost/availability. I still have a few thousand rounds stockpiled, and still buy a box or two when I see it. I just don't like paying .80 cents a round for plinking ammo and $1+ for subs. I don't usually let people shoot my 300 anymore because it costs $20 to shoot a mag.

I feel that you almost have to reload if you're going to shoot 300 BLK. I've seen some commercially produced reloads for $0.65-0.70, but I've also seen where some people have had problems with it. Even if you buy cases rather than making your own, you'll be able to make them for an initial cost of around $0.40 which will drop as you reuse the cases. You'll also produce much better ammo than the real low priced stuff.

tcoz
19 October 2014, 04:17
atheiss, there are a couple of things that I didn't see mentioned in your previous posts so I'll bring them up now. First, you didn't say which die you're using to reform your .223/5.56 brass so I'll assume you might be using the Lee sizing die. If so, be sure that you check to see whether you have chambering issues with the rounds that you produce. Lee specifically states that their sizing die IS NOT a reforming die. It doesn't form to minimum SAAMI case diameter but rather to middle of the range. If you have a tight chamber, you may have problems, but if you have a loose chamber you might be ok. If you do have a problem, consider using a small base sizing die like RCBS.

Secondly, make a copy of the Good/Bad Brass sticky in the Handloading area on the 300BlkTalk.com forum. I keep the list in my reloading area. It talks about case wall thickness being the major reason for rounds that won't chamber and it has a list of the manufacturers and whether their brass is good or bad. This is the reason that many 300 BLK reloaders use only LC brass since it's always GTG.

I hope I didn't bore everyone and some of this is useful info for you.

aatheiss
20 October 2014, 12:10
UWone77,

Like Dstrbdmedic167 said, initial buy-in costs of equipment is high. Even if you already have reloading equipment, the dies can be pricey, depending on what brand you go with, but I don't factor these in, since they'll pay for themselves over time. Even though I got a press for free, it still cost a couple hundred to get everything I needed to start. As for the cost of cartridge components, I think Medic has a better source than I do, or around where I am, components cost more. I have a box of Hornady 150gr SSTs that I got for around $35, if I remember correctly. I get CCI #400 primers at $5/100, and the only powder I've been able to find is IMR 4227 (not the best, but still should work), and I'll have to double check on this one too, but I think the price I got it for was around $30. So my cost per bullet is around 43-45 cents. I'm searching for other powder sources, but I'll probably end up paying a little more for the bullets I want.

Factory ammo is hard to come by; locally the cheapest I can find is the higher end stuff, like Barnes and Nosler, for $35+ for 20 rounds. Online I've found Fiocchi super sonics for $30 plus shipping. Gunbot.net is a great resource for finding ammo.


tcoz,

I hadn't heard that about the Lee dies, I'll have to take some measurements and see if the cases are to spec. I don't mind them being mid-range, so long as they're not outside SAAMI spec, and fit my chamber. I have a DD 300 BLK barrel, so if that tells you anything... Thanks for the heads up! The cases seem to be forming ok. Obviously takes a little more effort to force the brass through, but they don't appear any different than the few pieces of "original" 300 brass that I have.

I had read something somewhere, and it may very well be from 300BlkTalk.com, about the different brass qualities. The brass that I had stockpiled was a mix of my once-fired, from various brands, to range pickups, of unknown brands, so I went through and sorted them. Turns out, the vast majority were stamped "LC", which I was pleasantly surprised with. I think I read that federal brass was good to go, also, so any marked "FC" I added to my "good" pile. All others, including Wolf, Hornady, a veritable mix of others, but especially PPU, were put in my ".223/5.56 ONLY" pile.

Again, thanks! I was hoping others would chime in and possibly remind or inform me of something I had missed. I'm glad you did!

aatheiss
20 October 2014, 13:20
I went back and looked at that sticky. I guess I'll keep an eye on the FC brass.

tcoz
20 October 2014, 14:06
UWone77,

Like Dstrbdmedic167 said, initial buy-in costs of equipment is high. Even if you already have reloading equipment, the dies can be pricey, depending on what brand you go with, but I don't factor these in, since they'll pay for themselves over time. Even though I got a press for free, it still cost a couple hundred to get everything I needed to start. As for the cost of cartridge components, I think Medic has a better source than I do, or around where I am, components cost more. I have a box of Hornady 150gr SSTs that I got for around $35, if I remember correctly. I get CCI #400 primers at $5/100, and the only powder I've been able to find is IMR 4227 (not the best, but still should work), and I'll have to double check on this one too, but I think the price I got it for was around $30. So my cost per bullet is around 43-45 cents. I'm searching for other powder sources, but I'll probably end up paying a little more for the bullets I want.

Factory ammo is hard to come by; locally the cheapest I can find is the higher end stuff, like Barnes and Nosler, for $35+ for 20 rounds. Online I've found Fiocchi super sonics for $30 plus shipping. Gunbot.net is a great resource for finding ammo.


tcoz,

I hadn't heard that about the Lee dies, I'll have to take some measurements and see if the cases are to spec. I don't mind them being mid-range, so long as they're not outside SAAMI spec, and fit my chamber. I have a DD 300 BLK barrel, so if that tells you anything... Thanks for the heads up! The cases seem to be forming ok. Obviously takes a little more effort to force the brass through, but they don't appear any different than the few pieces of "original" 300 brass that I have.

I had read something somewhere, and it may very well be from 300BlkTalk.com, about the different brass qualities. The brass that I had stockpiled was a mix of my once-fired, from various brands, to range pickups, of unknown brands, so I went through and sorted them. Turns out, the vast majority were stamped "LC", which I was pleasantly surprised with. I think I read that federal brass was good to go, also, so any marked "FC" I added to my "good" pile. All others, including Wolf, Hornady, a veritable mix of others, but especially PPU, were put in my ".223/5.56 ONLY" pile.

Again, thanks! I was hoping others would chime in and possibly remind or inform me of something I had missed. I'm glad you did!

Look online at Powder Valley, MidSouth or Midway. You can get Hornsdy 150gr FMJBT bullets for just over $20+shipping/100. I think they're more than adequate for plinking and/or range use. You're also paying too much for primers. On those same websites, you can get them for $25-30/1000 and they're often on sale at Midway, MidSouth and Wideners for around $25/1000. Order 2000 at a time and even with the $28.50 hazmat fee and shipping, you'll still pay less than the $100/2000 that you're paying now.

IMR 4227 is fine. That's what I'm using since I can't find H110 and I'm happy with it plus my LGS has had a decent supply of it lately.

Without a great deal of effort, you should be able to bring your cost down to around 0.30/rd

Use your chamber as a case gauge for your initial batch of reformed cases. You might be one of the fortunate Lee die users who can use their sizing die to reform without having to buy a more expensive small base sizing die. A big suggestion I have is to invest in a slotted Sheridan Case Gauge. Unlike the other gauges, it will check your finished round for diameter since it's completely sized to minimum SAAMI specs. If it fits in the Sheridan it WILL chamber in your rifle. If any of your rounds have neck diameter issues from too thick neck walls, it'll tell you, whereas other gauges won't. Saves a lot of headaches and makes it easy to diagnose problems. A little pricey but well worth it.

Let me know if you have other questions. I'm definitely not an expert as there are a lot of people on the forums with a lot more knowledge than I have, but I'll be happy to help if I can. Good luck.

aatheiss
20 October 2014, 20:18
My LGS seems to have a monopoly around town. They're consistently more expensive than what I'm used to in Texas.

I'm hesitant to buy powder and primers online because of that hazmat fee, it bit me hard when I ordered caps for my Dragoon a couple months back. Maybe after a couple more paychecks and a few test bullets I'll take your advice and get a bulk shipment.

I saw those gages, and I want to get one eventually. If I have any issues with my brass I may be getting one sooner than I planned.

tcoz
20 October 2014, 20:31
I'm hesitant to buy powder and primers online because of that hazmat fee, it bit me hard when I ordered caps for my Dragoon a couple months back. Maybe after a couple more paychecks and a few test bullets I'll take your advice and get a bulk shipment.

The key to buying online is to buy enough to spread out the hazmat fee. You paid $30 for a pound of 4227 and I paid $22. You paid $5/100 for primers and I paid just over $3. If you buy 2000 primers and 4lbs of powder, you'd save $32 on the powder and $36 on primers. The $68 you'd save would more than cover the $28.50 hazmat plus shipping.

aatheiss
22 October 2014, 12:42
I think what I will eventually do to convert .223 brass into 300 BLK brass is set up a separate turret. I'll get the RCBS Small Base Die (if I have to pay for a second crimp die, so be it), possibly a second Lee decapping die, and the Lee quick-trim system, so I can form the brass progressively. For now I'm hoping everything works well enough. I should be able to make my first batch this weekend, but I won't be able to shoot for a little while. I still haven't found a decent place to shoot.

aatheiss
24 October 2014, 16:13
Well, I rolled my first round ever this afternoon. This was the setup tweaker, where I fine tuned all the dies to exactly what I wanted. I also checked the fit in my 300's chamber, no issues that I could tell. I'll be putting out about 9 more of this same recipe to shoot and see how they do, and maybe 10 more with a hair more powder. I have some different bullets that should be here tomorrow, some Barnes TAC-TX 110gr 300 BLK pills, so I'll work a few starters for them, too. I figure 40 rounds total for now, until I'm able to go test shoot them. I'm excited that I finally got to where I can make my own bullets!

The recipe:
Hornady 150gr SST bullet
16.4gr IMR 4227 powder
CCI #400 primer
LC brass, cut, formed, trimmed and tumbled
COL: 2.090

The bullet sits lower than I intended at first, but the crimp groove was higher than I expected.