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View Full Version : My Stickman AR Build-Complete (with pics)



alamo5000
11 November 2014, 12:09
I took my first shots with this new build today. I won the CMT Billet UPR4 from Stickman and now look what I got [:D]

I did not take my time carefully editing the photos.. I just took something half decent and went with it. But you get the idea.

The concept behind the gun was to have a mid range weapon that can engage 300 yards in and do so accurately. I have a lot to say about the parts I chose and why I chose them, but for now you can look and see and if you have questions feel free to ask away.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5608/15148008983_98d63420ec_b.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7577/15582624770_d839d4b3b4_b.jpg

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5608/15743728786_9529f8b80a_b.jpg

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8541/15743730606_616c26f6bc_b.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7538/15582271797_4cd4e60d8b_b.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7465/15582010588_ce5d87b24a_b.jpg

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8578/15765570001_e0e0dc9ca7_b.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7478/15765571421_7f1c93e59e_b.jpg

alamo5000
11 November 2014, 12:17
Parts list:

from the front to the back.

SLR Rifleworks Synergy BCF muzzle brake/flash hider.
Rainier Arms 16" select medcon 1:8 polygonal twist barrel
SLR Rifleworks 14" M-Lok Solo Lite hand guard
Rainier Arms match grade low profile gas block and a melonited Seekins gas tube.
CMT UPR4 billet slick side upper with dust cover.
Strike Industries polymer ultimate dust cover
Aero Precision SPR scope mount
Bushnell 1-4X throwdown scope.
CMT Billet lower
Seekins mag release button and enhanced bolt catch
Rainier Arms Phosphate BCG
CMC 3.5 lb single stage trigger
BAD safety selector
Magpul grip
Rainier Arms Raptor charging handle
Magpul ACS-L milspec stock
Daniel defense QD plate right in front of the castle nut
Not pictured, Magpul MS3 single QD sling

Pyzik
11 November 2014, 12:22
if you have questions feel free to ask away.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7465/15582010588_ce5d87b24a_b.jpg


What's up with the selector? :P

VERY cool build. I like the look of the strike dust cover with the billet set.

DutyUse
11 November 2014, 12:22
Looks really good

alamo5000
11 November 2014, 12:26
What's up with the selector? :P

VERY cool build. I like the look of the strike dust cover with the billet set.

I bought that strike industries dust cover from amazon. I have a metal one too, but the strike industries one is just awesome. I really like it not only for look but for function. It's all self contained so you can depress one end and snap it in place and it's there. I would not use a metal one if I can help it.

Also I put the selector on this side up like that on purpose because I didn't like it touching my hand. I might invest in a short/thin replacement for that side of the rifle. It works pretty good as is. I might play around with it first but who knows.

alamo5000
11 November 2014, 12:26
Looks really good

Not bad for a first timer. This was my first ever build.[:D]

Thank you!!

Pyzik
11 November 2014, 12:29
I bought that strike industries dust cover from amazon. I have a metal one too, but the strike industries one is just awesome. I really like it not only for look but for function. It's all self contained so you can depress one end and snap it in place and it's there. I would not use a metal one if I can help it.

Also I put the selector on this side up like that on purpose because I didn't like it touching my hand. I might invest in a short/thin replacement for that side of the rifle. It works pretty good as is. I might play around with it first but who knows.

I've been considering ordering one of their dust covers just to try it.

I was teasing you, didn't realize it was on purpose. I'll say that I had the short selector on that side and swapped it out for a long thin one. MUCH better. I hated it toughing my hand too.

alamo5000
11 November 2014, 12:29
Right now my biggest problem is I can't seem to get the roll pin for the gas block all the way flush. It's about 1mm or a half a mm sticking out on one side. I don't know any special tricks to get it flush other than to just bang on it more but I don't want to mess up my gas block either.

alamo5000
11 November 2014, 12:32
I've been considering ordering one of their dust covers just to try it.

I was teasing you, didn't realize it was on purpose. I'll say that I had the short selector on that side and swapped it out for a long thin one. MUCH better. I hated it toughing my hand too.

The dust cover is a no brainer. Its fantastic. I really really like it. It doesn't have things engraved all over the open side but who cares? It works better than a metal one.

For the selector lever I might get a long thin one or a short thin one... but for now it's pretty functional. I can swap out that selector lever any time.

Computalotapus
11 November 2014, 12:39
Looks good

WHSmithIV
11 November 2014, 12:47
Looks like it came out REALLY nice. I like that CMC flat trigger also. How did it do at the range?

alamo5000
11 November 2014, 13:37
Looks like it came out REALLY nice. I like that CMC flat trigger also. How did it do at the range?

The flat trigger is much nicer than a curved one, at least for my uses and preferences. If I was a cop or some spec ops dude who wore big gloves all the time maybe not... but the trigger has several advantages. Most of the time when trying to cap off a precise shot it's the shooter that screws it up. Finger placement whether it be too shallow or too deep can pull a shot off target...with this trigger it's MUCH easier to develop muscle memory (even if it is just your finger). Secondly the flat pull seems shorter merely because of the design shape. There is very little take up with this trigger as well. I mean like maybe a mm or two. So for me, I know when the thing is going to go bang and I will know if my finger is in the right spot or not. There is also very little if any 'slippage' of my finger on the trigger.

If I ever were to find my way into a shootout there might be other options to consider, but since I am going to be plinking and such albeit a bit more than that, it's more down the alley of where I wanted to take my build. IE pretty precise shots within 0-300 yard range. The 3.5 lb pull is also just about perfect. If I want to shoot a coyote at 200 yards I can do that with this build NO PROBLEM.

As for official range time I only loaded about half a mag and went to the back yard, IE 100 feet from my back door and took a few shots to make sure the gun cycles right, extracts, and this or that... I can shoot up to about 150 yards in the back yard without any problem... we shoot skeet all the time, but when I get a chance in the next day or two I might go down to an indoor range and use their lead sled and zero the scope in.

I can say this though, it felt really good to shoot. Much nicer than some of the other AR's I have shot... and whole lot of that has to do with the trigger. There also might be a large element of self satisfaction in there too [:D]

I have to say building this AR was a learning experience. I now things now that I didn't know before, but I also can say hands down it was probably one of the most enjoyable projects I've ever done.

alamo5000
11 November 2014, 14:48
Here is another interesting tidbit on this optic that I chose. Here is what the reticle looks like.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7568/15582016948_d6f7c89fc1_o.gif

When you throw down to 1X on the scope it acts like a red dot. It's a first focal plane optic so no matter how you look through it if the dot is on, its on regardless of zoom level. At 1X I can easily look through this scope with both eyes open and have all my peripheral vision.

The inside edge of the horse shoe...the center dot is the zero spot, but at exactly 100 yards at 4x the inside edge of that horse shoe covers exactly 18" from side to side.

The next crosshair down is already calculated for the 223/556 bullet drop, but the width of that horizontal hair also covers 18" at 200 yards. It's a pretty cool way to range find. The "average" man size target is 18" across shoulder to shoulder.

I don't know a lot about optics but the design and features of this one will undergo a lot of testing from me [:D] So far it seems to be extremely interesting.

It can also be used with or without batteries. The reticle is etched but it can also be illuminated in your choice of red if you need it for dim conditions.

toolboxluis00200
11 November 2014, 14:56
man that is a bad ass crazy set up and rifle you did good

alamo5000
11 November 2014, 15:24
man that is a bad ass crazy set up and rifle you did good


Thank you!

I did put a whole lot of thought into what I was doing before I ever did anything. I asked a thousand questions to various people all to get a feel for what I wanted to get into... and in the end I don't think I could have come up with a more perfect setup for me than what I have now.

I do have to admit I have saved for 2 years to get an AR15...I had the money but I am disciplined on my spending. When I do something big I then treat myself to something nice. I paid off all my student loans (like zero, zip, nada anymore) so I bought myself camera gear. My car is paid in full (well I have 900 bucks left on it)... so I treated myself. I have no debt whatsoever and savings in the bank so I figured I could splurge a little on my early Christmas present. This is my reward for getting out of debt.

I am a firm believer in taking care of debt if you have any...and when I do, I reward myself.

All in all I got this entire rig for about $1800 including the optic. I made some minor mistakes on the deal and had to make some educated guesses on other things, but overall I am very pleased with what I built. The parts I have are all superb. Rainier Arms makes great stuff. Magpul makes great stuff. SLR Rifleworks....OMG. Aero precision... that was a very good call (suggested by someone here at WEVO)....the optic I just read about a few of them and figured for $200 bucks with a highly rated optic I would do fine... (thank goodness for Amazon reviews LOL)... The trigger... I made an educated guess and I am very very pleased. The trigger is one of my favorite parts...

alamo5000
11 November 2014, 15:42
Other cool things on this is that it had exactly one roll pin in the entire setup and that was in the gas block. CMT made building the lower just flat out EASY. You can take the bolt catch on or off with a little supplied allen wrench. No punches, no hammers. If you need to fix, repair, or adjust your mag release...with the other ones you should try and get it right the first time. With CMT you can take it all apart and put it back together while sitting on your bed.

I bought exactly two tools for the whole process. One was a no mar upper vice block and the other was a castle nut wrench. The rest of it is put together using standard tools, and almost always the manufacturer included whatever tool you needed with whatever part it was you were putting on. But with a book of allen wrenches of different sizes its a snap.

The SLR Rifleworks rail is literally a thing of beauty. The barrel nut gets tightened down with a standard 1 1/4" open ended wrench or crescent wrench. It does not need to be timed. You can technically take the barrel off and put it back on (if you are careful) without ever removing your gas tube. It's a pretty neat set up.

titanse05
11 November 2014, 17:18
Gotta get either the short hybrid or short thin lever for the weak side but other than that, nice build.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S4

alamo5000
11 November 2014, 17:27
Gotta get either the short hybrid or short thin lever for the weak side but other than that, nice build.

I ordered a short thin one about an hour ago...[:D]

Stickman
12 November 2014, 20:25
Not sure what's up with the selector, but otherwise, it looks good. Hope it shoots as well as it looks.

alamo5000
12 November 2014, 20:28
Not sure what's up with the selector, but otherwise, it looks good. Hope it shoots as well as it looks.

I put the selector on the weak side upside down because it bugged me when it poked my hand. I have already ordered a short/thin replacement that should solve the problem on a more permanent basis.

WHSmithIV
12 November 2014, 20:31
The flat trigger is much nicer than a curved one, at least for my uses and preferences. If I was a cop or some spec ops dude who wore big gloves all the time maybe not... but the trigger has several advantages. Most of the time when trying to cap off a precise shot it's the shooter that screws it up. Finger placement whether it be too shallow or too deep can pull a shot off target...with this trigger it's MUCH easier to develop muscle memory (even if it is just your finger). Secondly the flat pull seems shorter merely because of the design shape. There is very little take up with this trigger as well. I mean like maybe a mm or two. So for me, I know when the thing is going to go bang and I will know if my finger is in the right spot or not. There is also very little if any 'slippage' of my finger on the trigger.

If I ever were to find my way into a shootout there might be other options to consider, but since I am going to be plinking and such albeit a bit more than that, it's more down the alley of where I wanted to take my build. IE pretty precise shots within 0-300 yard range. The 3.5 lb pull is also just about perfect. If I want to shoot a coyote at 200 yards I can do that with this build NO PROBLEM.

As for official range time I only loaded about half a mag and went to the back yard, IE 100 feet from my back door and took a few shots to make sure the gun cycles right, extracts, and this or that... I can shoot up to about 150 yards in the back yard without any problem... we shoot skeet all the time, but when I get a chance in the next day or two I might go down to an indoor range and use their lead sled and zero the scope in.

I can say this though, it felt really good to shoot. Much nicer than some of the other AR's I have shot... and whole lot of that has to do with the trigger. There also might be a large element of self satisfaction in there too [:D]

I have to say building this AR was a learning experience. I now things now that I didn't know before, but I also can say hands down it was probably one of the most enjoyable projects I've ever done.

I agree with you 100% - I test shoot in my front yard. Thanks for the info on that trigger. I've been looking for some honest opinions about them just out of curiosity. I learned a great deal building my rifle too. Really sucks that we were so broke and I had to sell it. You've got a nice rifle there. I like it [:)]

DutyUse
12 November 2014, 20:50
Not bad for a first timer. This was my first ever build.[:D]

Thank you!!

Wow nicely done for your first build. Looks tons better then my first build lol

Thompson
12 November 2014, 20:57
... your build almost mirrors mine (in terms of receiver parts) - Seekin Precision mag release & bolt catch; CMT lower; Magpul furniture;BAD-ASS(FDE); CMC or Geissele flat trigger (trying to find someone who has a CMC flat trigger to try it out first before I make any decisions). Good to know about the ease of assembly for CMT's lower.

Curious - is there anything wrong with the traditional metal dust covers? Or did you just want to go with something different? Also is the dust cover dimensions for the UPUR-4 any different from other uppers? ... it looks a tad bit longer.

Ride4frnt
12 November 2014, 21:02
... your build almost mirrors mine (in terms of receiver parts) - Seekin Precision mag release & bolt catch; CMT lower; Magpul furniture;BAD-ASS(FDE); CMC or Geissele flat trigger (trying to find someone who has a CMC flat trigger to try it out first before I make any decisions). Good to know about the ease of assembly for CMT's lower.

Curious - is there anything wrong with the traditional metal dust covers? Or did you just want to go with something different? Also is the dust cover dimensions for the UPUR-4 any different from other uppers? ... it looks a tad bit longer.

You put one of those springs on once and you'll realize how genius the strike industries dust cover is. Unless there's a trick I don't know.

alamo5000
12 November 2014, 21:05
Wow nicely done for your first build. Looks tons better then my first build lol

I took a lot of notes from a lot of people who know their stuff :) I probably bugged the crap out of more than one person asking questions. But in the end knowledge is power. And at some point you have to move beyond concept and get into reality as to how it's going to all work and how to do it...

I figured I would much rather build a rifle that I would just LOVE (achieved) than to just buy something random. At least that was my approach. Seeing how I come from a shooting background (but not so much an AR background) it worked for me to do it that way.

I did have some minor screw ups but nothing major in the process. Almost all of it went together flawlessly and I attribute that to me going with good name brand products from good manufacturers.

The only part I am not entirely sold on is the optic... I will test it and see how it goes and then weigh options for other things as a rebuild my bank account. My heart said ACOG and my wallet said no. In the end at some point you just have to jump in the water and start trying stuff... but the more you know before you jump the better, at least in my opinion. Or you can just go get you a weekend noise maker blaster and shoot frisbee size groups at 50 yards and have fun... but that's not me.

Thompson
12 November 2014, 21:09
You put one of those springs on once and you'll realize how genius the strike industries dust cover is. Unless there's a trick I don't know.
Sorry, not too familiar with their dust cover. What makes it so unique?

alamo5000
12 November 2014, 21:21
... your build almost mirrors mine (in terms of receiver parts) - Seekin Precision mag release & bolt catch; CMT lower; Magpul furniture;BAD-ASS(FDE); CMC or Geissele flat trigger (trying to find someone who has a CMC flat trigger to try it out first before I make any decisions). Good to know about the ease of assembly for CMT's lower.

Curious - is there anything wrong with the traditional metal dust covers? Or did you just want to go with something different? Also is the dust cover dimensions for the UPUR-4 any different from other uppers? ... it looks a tad bit longer.

I have never used a Geisele trigger so I can't make any side by side comparisons. But I know the CMC is pretty darn good.

It reminds me of a story... 'beware of a guy with a worn looking set of golf clubs and a dark tan'...you can fret all day long about minute differences... but that's all stuff on paper. It's just like in photography where people go bonkers over 16mp camera vs an 18mp camera and start raving about it...

I recall when I was a kid this old man lived next to us (way out in the country)...he had a 22-250 rifle with a scope and simply put he knew his gear. He knew HIS stuff and how it worked.... one day a coyote was trotting across a field while he was sitting on the porch and he free handed about a 300 yard shot (or more) .... with a single shot... and then put his rifle down and said 'yall boys can go pick him up'... he got a head shot on the thing... it was just an amazing shot (or at least I thought so as a kid)... but he really was a fantastic shot... I learned a lot from him gun wise...what's in your head is more important.... back then he just worked with what he had...

Now we have like 100 choices...

As to the dust cover the metal one worked but there are some key differences. The metal ones have a rod that goes all the way through and some are even blocked in place by the rail. And it has a c clip which the strike does not have. If you want it on or off you have to take the rail off. Not so with strike. One tab on the end is depressable so you lock one end in your dust cover holes, depress the other and snap it into place. It locks up using the same mechanism of a traditional cover, but it also has a little ridge the same shape as your port that fits down into your port and clicks into place. The spring on the metal one I had would rest up against the port opening and use that as leverage to pop open... not so with the strike... that little spring, however small scratches your upper even if it is a tiny mark. And lastly when the door flops open and its sitting there or if you are moving around with the dust cover bouncing around... its not metal on metal which can possibly damage the finish on the upper. With the strike its polymer. No metal on metal contact.

I don't know about other uppers. This is my first AR. I think it's the same but you can have the option from CMT to get a bigger port if you want it (for SOCOM builds)... but that's an option.

I know the standard dust cover door fits it perfect so I figure its the same size.

Ride4frnt
12 November 2014, 21:22
Sorry, not too familiar with their dust cover. What makes it so unique?

Quick disconnect, and you don't have to worry about trying to shove the pin through while holding the spring. It's a 3 hand type of job for a normal one.

alamo5000
12 November 2014, 21:38
You've got a nice rifle there. I like it [:)]

Thank you! I honestly put a whole lot of thought into it over a long time... and to be honest I couldn't be happier with it. I am not entirely sold on my optic but I will give it a test.

Like I said before this was one of the most enjoyable projects I've ever worked on. And now with some experience under my belt I can see this happening again :)

But my wallet already hurts.

alamo5000
12 November 2014, 21:39
Sorry, not too familiar with their dust cover. What makes it so unique?

Read my post that is right under yours... it pretty much sums it up.

alamo5000
12 November 2014, 21:43
http://www.strikeindustries.com/shop/index.php/rifle-accessories/ar/upper-parts/ar-ultimate-dust-cover.html

Click through the pictures...

GOST
13 November 2014, 02:06
Gotta get either the short hybrid or short thin lever for the weak side but other than that, nice build.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S4

I run the short hybrid, it's a great lever if you choke up on the grip.

Thompson
13 November 2014, 04:56
Oh okay, yeah I get what you guys mean now. That's a pretty innovative move there. Assembly looks much much easier too.

Found a video in case anyone else wanted to see:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G3lIf_IiNdo

alamo5000
13 November 2014, 13:22
Ok fellas. I have a range report. The weather here turned bad (its like freezing outside and the wind is around 30mph) so I actually broke down and paid someone to let me shoot at a gun range. It was a local (30 minutes away) 100 yard indoor range. I went there because I didn't want to deal with the weather and because I could get a 'reading' without a lot of outside variables.

I took a couple shots... clicked the scope here and there... took another and I was 'fairly' on zero maybe 5 shots in. I fiddled a little more then I took some shots.... I did it three times in a row... 3 times I got 1" groups. They have little cameras set up so you can see your target via video feed. At 100 yards you honestly cannot see a 1" spot with a 4X scope. I was using the larger outer rings that were more bold in color to be able to estimate an aiming point. But I reeled in the target and inspected it, and yep... 1" groups on three distinct clean targets using only 3 rounds each.

My ammo was off the shelf at Academy sporting goods Hornaday .223 55gr FMJ/BT ammo.

Later on after my 15 minutes of glory I shot a little less than a magazine full I pulled the trigger and a shot went like a foot left. I was like what the $&&## is going on here?! Is my scope broken? What happened? I tried it again. Same thing. By this time I had been at the range about an hour so my time was up... I had mixed feelings. I was happy that I was able to achieve 1" at a measured and confirmed 100 yard range, not once, but three times in a row.... but I was also frustrated and wondering what was going wrong?

On my way out the door it dawned on me to take a look at my gun... so I asked to borrow a table and fortunately I had a few little tools with me... and when I got to checking if everything was tight... the front allen screws on my scope mount (the ones that hold the scope in place) had apparently rattled loose. They were so loose I could have probably taken them out with my fingers if I had tried. I tightened them back down packed my stuff back up and left...

I spent about half an hour making sure my scope was level before I put it on... that is one of the downsides to the design by Aero precision. You can have a perfectly level reticle on an perfectly level surface but when you tighten it up it slightly rotates the scope so you have to start with a little offset to get it right. I think they should maybe make a similar design of similar materials, but make it top loading with the more traditional 4 screw set. I like the Aero that I have and once I get it where I want it and figure out how to make it stay put then I will be fine, but a top loader in a similar design and 'ultra light' would be a bit more user friendly from the set up standpoint. You can get it done how it is, it just takes more time and careful calibration. It's a great product, just a suggestion to think about.

I am not sure if I should or should not use a little bit of BLUE loctite on those screws once I have confirmed I am back to level. (Any advice?)

So far that's it. 3X repeatable 1" groups. I had to estimate where that 1" was at, but at 100 yards that center dot pretty much covers the 'inch' up, but it's definitely doable, and I think that's about what I am gonna get out of my gun. And you know what? I am pretty happy with that. In fact I think that's pretty good. I am gonna get everything tightened back up and re-zeroed (I should still be pretty close) and I will be in business.

Former11B
13 November 2014, 15:16
Did you do your initial group and zero at 100yds? For the first initial zeroing, I'd have gotten "on the paper" at 25 or 50 yards. Investing in a small spotting scope or a pair of binos to see your targets. And what kind of range do you have access to that has target cameras??? What's the $ per hour cost at that place??

I'd put a small drop of blue Loctite on your screws, or next time you shoot, check and retighten after every magazine. I feel like it happens on the first outing and then they lock up

alamo5000
13 November 2014, 15:40
Did you do your initial group and zero at 100yds? For the first initial zeroing, I'd have gotten "on the paper" at 25 or 50 yards. Investing in a small spotting scope or a pair of binos to see your targets. And what kind of range do you have access to that has target cameras??? What's the $ per hour cost at that place??

I'd put a small drop of blue Loctite on your screws, or next time you shoot, check and retighten after every magazine. I feel like it happens on the first outing and then they lock up

All my shooting and zeroing started at 100 yards. I didn't start in close and work my way out... I just went to 100 and that was it.

I plinked in the back yard (like 10 rounds) and used some of that to basically 'get on paper' while I was testing the gun for function and all that. That was also at 100 yards. I went to home depot a long time ago and got these dense foam boards that have this metal tape plasticy stuff on them and they just sit in the barn waiting to be shot. They are perfect to stick a target on especially the sticky kind, but paper works too... I bought them to cut into targets. They come in big sheets like 4 foot by 8 foot or even bigger, maybe 5x12 I don't know... anyway I got some square bales of hay and propped up and target initially at 100yards and in about 2 or 3 rounds I was on the paper... but the weather started turning bad and I had other stuff to do so I didn't shoot for a few days after that.

Then fast forward to today where the weather really is getting pretty bad out there so I drove over to shoot. If you just get the lane and a target it's $18 an hour for a full 100 yard indoor range with live video. If you want to rent a led sled it's an additional $5. For my initial shots to avoid wasting time I tried it on the led sled for the first little bit just to make sure... I left out of there and it was under $25 for over an hour... if it's not busy they don't time you. If it is busy they try to keep people on track. So it was $25 for over an hour including a led sled rental, which was 'ok' but with all the blocks and sand bags and other stuff I have laying around I can easily accomplish the same thing at home.

Between both days of shooting I had the rifle pretty close to zero (hitting 1 or 2 inches left from dead center) in probably 10 rounds or so. Maybe 20 being generous. The rest of that box of 50 was me just playing around, which is when the scope came loose.

Now just to make sure, I am going to re-level the scope (or at least test to see if it went off level), or if just the front came loose tightening it back down pulled it back in line...I don't know... but once I verify, I have a brand new bottle of blue loctite. I was thinking I should use a drop on those particular threads so it doesn't happen again but I wasn't sure if this is normal or acceptable. I think it should be fine but who knows.

GaSwamper
13 November 2014, 17:25
Great build! You def. done your homework, lots of quality parts. The CMC triggers are my favorite for the money they are hard to beat. Blue locktite will be the fix for scope mount screws unless a particular Manu recommends not to use. Also one of the best investments you can make in gun tools is a torque screwdriver. Getting all of your scope mount base and ring screws torqued evenly and to the proper specs can make the difference sometimes in a MOA rifle and a sub MOA rifle. Glad you posted the review on the dust cover, it helped make up my mind to go order one right now for the Wolvie upper!

XACT_ABORT
13 November 2014, 18:13
Alamo, awesome. The build looks great. I really hope you continue to enjoy it. Thanks for posting.

alamo5000
13 November 2014, 18:19
Great build! You def. done your homework, lots of quality parts. The CMC triggers are my favorite for the money they are hard to beat. Blue locktite will be the fix for scope mount screws unless a particular Manu recommends not to use. Also one of the best investments you can make in gun tools is a torque screwdriver. Getting all of your scope mount base and ring screws torqued evenly and to the proper specs can make the difference sometimes in a MOA rifle and a sub MOA rifle. Glad you posted the review on the dust cover, it helped make up my mind to go order one right now for the Wolvie upper!


Thank you! I don't know if you read all my posts or not but I saved for almost two years before I rewarded myself with a build. I am 100% debt free (my goal) so when I met that, this is my reward. In the mean time I came up with a concept for what I wanted and put a lot of thought into it. I had the choice to build or buy... and I am so glad that I built one instead. Overall I am very pleased with it. The one inch group is just validation and a bit of icing on the cake.

If someone asked me if they should build or buy... I would say it depends on that person. If they have a specific concept (like I did) in mind then building is the way to go. I could have gotten something slightly cheaper, but I figure it's better to get something that I LOVE, not just 'like'.

There was no manual for that scope mount... but I don't think a drop of blue will hurt anything. In fact I think it's a good idea. I didn't even think to put any on there before or I would have done so. I just have to make sure everything is on there right before I go at it... THEN I can continue trying to get a perfect zero. I got close today but I am not sure if it's off a lot now or not. I have a few more days of cold and rain and freezing weather, so first break I will go try it again. In the mean time i will do my 'inside work' to make sure the scope is still level and all that jive.

The scope mount came with a dedicated tool so I figured that would be good enough, but I have a ton of tools around here. It's getting them tight, but I guess the repeated recoil jarred them loose. I don't know if I need to figure out a way to measure the torque on the screws. If there is some kind of special way to measure the torque on a allen wrench/torques head let me know. The base of the thing didn't move. It seems like it was just the front two torque screws up closest to the scope. the back ones might have come loose too, but I don't know. I don't think they came loose as bad (if at all) vs the front ones. Those ones were really loose.

I am testing this optic so over time we shall see. I bought it on a whim thinking it had good reviews and it pretty much had the basic features I like. I was initially wanting an ACOG but the design of what I got was very interesting, and the price was right. Now that I got the build done I can turn my attention to learning more about optics and my various choices with that are. If this one works good I might keep it, if I find I need an upgrade I might do that too. I don't know a lot about optics but I did read a bit before buying.

As for the dust cover it's a small part of the overall rifle but I am very pleased with the product. I am sure you will like it. Seriously get back with me once you put it on and tell me what you think.

alamo5000
13 November 2014, 18:25
Alamo, awesome. The build looks great. I really hope you continue to enjoy it. Thanks for posting.

Continue to enjoy it? THIS IS MY BABY! [:D] It's one of the family now. I am pleased with the parts I have and with how the thing turned out. Very much so. They aren't the only good manufacturers out there by any means but I got what I paid for. Very good stuff.

I can already tell that I am going to wind up building more of these. Maybe the next one will be in .308.

The overall 'project' was a very enjoyable experience, but there was a measure of sifting through a lot of bull****. Talking with honest and knowledgeable people helped me tremendously. There are those though who just want to sell you something.

I am very happy with how it all came out. I am sure as I shoot it more I will find things I want to tinker with...or add... but overall...

I might want to figure out a way to add some BIUS. I was thinking 45 degree irons but I would have to alter my scope mount or push the rear sight forward. I will have to think about various options. Everything is on the table.

GaSwamper
13 November 2014, 18:38
I use the Wheeler Torque screwdriver, it comes with alota useful gunsmithing apex bits that yes are also allen head but I also have a full Weaver bit set.

http://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Firearms-Accurizing-Torque-Wrench/dp/B0012AXR4S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415932391&sr=8-1&keywords=wheeler+fat+torque+wrench

alamo5000
13 November 2014, 19:14
I use the Wheeler Torque screwdriver, it comes with alota useful gunsmithing apex bits that yes are also allen head but I also have a full Weaver bit set.

http://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Firearms-Accurizing-Torque-Wrench/dp/B0012AXR4S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415932391&sr=8-1&keywords=wheeler+fat+torque+wrench

I will see what I can round up....

On a side note I just used a digital fish scale and my entire build including the optic weighs in at 8.73 lbs.

Without the scope mount and optic it is 7.44 lbs.

I don't know if that's good or not... probably a bit on the heavy side... but that's ok [:D] It's solid....I like solid.