Aim Surplus AR Foundation Kit

[GOST]

https://4b1e874935ea5d25a97e-f099844d0e354c7ab50c55a966be6870.ssl.cf2.rackcdn.c om/product/F1ARFK.jpg

This is so cheap I thought it deserved its own thread.

The basic Foundation of any quality AR Build bundled together at a Great Price! This Kit includes a Anderson Manufacturing A3 Upper Receiver, Lower Receiver and AIM Bolt Carrier Group. The receivers are machined from 7075-T6 Forgings to Mil-spec dimensions. The kit features the heart of the kit with one or our MPI, USGI spec. Bolt Carrier Groups.
Please Note: Upper receivers do NOT have T-markings on the rails

$139.95

http://www.aimsurplus.com/product.aspx?item=F1ARBK

[toolboxluis00200]

I saw that wish I had the money it will be nice for a trunk gun

[Dstrbdmedic167]

I'm interested in the police trade ins they have. M&P 40's for $329 and 9mm are in this week according to IG. I think I need to find $300ish dollars.

[SINNER]

Insane price.

[GOST]

I'm interested in the police trade ins they have. M&P 40's for $329 and 9mm are in this week according to IG. I think I need to find $300ish dollars.

The local Glock Distributor for LEO's sells to civilians, new G19's for $390 cheaper than blue line pricing.

[Dstrbdmedic167]

The local Glock Distributor for LEO's sells to civilians, new G19's for $390 cheaper than blue line pricing.

That's a great price. Thinking about an MP just to change it up a bit. Also been eyeing the grey glocks now that they're out.

[GOST]

These here will probably triple in value by this time next year.

[Dstrbdmedic167]

I Concur...

[WHSmithIV]

That is an insane price

[UWone77]

These are the types if deals if you have a little cash floating around I'd get 1 or 2 of, to throw back into the safe. You'll be begging for this type of deal come 2016.

[Dstrbdmedic167]

These are the types if deals if you have a little cash floating around I'd get 1 or 2 of, to throw back into the safe. You'll be begging for this type of deal come 2016.

So how many ponies did you order? I know it's your favorite roll mark. [BD]

[Slippers]

This is so ridiculously cheap. I would have a hard time trusting the parts. I don't know. I guess I'm just glass half empty/skeptical type when it comes to firearms and cheap deals.

[velocity2006]

I've never shot one, but I have heard good things about Andersons stripped parts if your on a budget. Generally I go PSA if I am cruising on a budget.

[UWone77]

So how many ponies did you order? I know it's your favorite roll mark. [BD]

0


This is so ridiculously cheap. I would have a hard time trusting the parts. I don't know. I guess I'm just glass half empty/skeptical type when it comes to firearms and cheap deals.

This is why.

I have enough AR's, but would purchase a set or two to help out your buddies in a panic/ban when they inevitably want to guilt you into giving/selling you something.

[WHSmithIV]

This is so ridiculously cheap. I would have a hard time trusting the parts. I don't know. I guess I'm just glass half empty/skeptical type when it comes to firearms and cheap deals.

Nothing wrong with the Anderson stripped uppers and lowers. They are decent quality forged receivers. If you buy a set from their site it will cost $95 (they currently have them on sale). Getting a BCG for another $45 makes it one very good package for the price.

[toolboxluis00200]

0



This is why.

I have enough AR's, but would purchase a set or two to help out your buddies in a panic/ban when they inevitably want to guilt you into giving/selling you something.

Yeahhhhhh but how many did the wife get. [BD]

[UWone77]

Yeahhhhhh but how many did the wife get. [BD]

Unfortunately, she is not an avid shooter.

[Slippers]

Nothing wrong with the Anderson stripped uppers and lowers. They are decent quality forged receivers. If you buy a set from their site it will cost $95 (they currently have them on sale). Getting a BCG for another $45 makes it one very good package for the price.

I think you missed the point of my post. Quality costs, plain and simple. The cost savings have to come from somewhere. Personally, I would never trust a $45 BCG in my AR15.

Since you see this as a "very good package for the price," do you own one of these receiver sets and BCGs? And have you run a few thousand rounds through it? This is a serious question. I'm not trying to poke fun or discredit you.

Perhaps it's just a glut of inventory Anderson wants to move, so they're willing to make very little profit on them. But when uppers/lowers cost half as much as Aero Precision, I start to worry a little bit. Toss in a BCG for half as much as some of the cheaper ones go for, and (in my opinion) it's too good to be true.

[WHSmithIV]

I think the surplus is from the AIM Surplus side. As Anderson ramped up their marketing they sold lower and upper receivers in bulk at really good dealer prices. Keep in mind that it's more of a buyers market now. I recall about a year ago that Anderson would sell lots of 100 lower receivers to dealers at $37 each (it may have been a little less). I have one of their receivers and it is certainly on par with other quality forged receivers out there. Fit and finish is great.

As for the BCG, I don't know. I suspect it's equivalent to the Pegasus Defense BCG I had in my last rifle. That I got on sale for $105 as I recall with free shipping. Never had a problem with it. So, I'm guessing AIM Surplus is reducing surplus inventory at a fraction over cost. If I had the cash, I'd buy a set even though i don't really need it right now.

[Slippers]

So in other words, the BCG is an unknown. No data on it. No round counts. Queue the people saying, "if it fails, at least it was cheap!"

:)

[WHSmithIV]

So in other words, the BCG is an unknown. No data on it. No round counts. Queue the people saying, "if it fails, at least it was cheap!"

:)

Yes, the BCG is an unknown. As I posted, you can buy the complete receiver set direct from Anderson right now on sale for $95 (plus shipping). Andersons site says here to Idaho with UPS brings the total to $113.40 with $18.41 shipping for the receiver set. We don't know who makes the BCG. On the other hand, since the offer has free shipping, you can't really go very wrong with having the complete BCG for the $45 even as just spares.

Update:
I took a look at AIM's website. It states that it is an AIM BCG. They sell it by itself for $75. I'm guessing they don't actually make it and if they don't, finding out who does could be difficult.

[Slippers]

Sorry, but that's really strange logic. It's an unknown. $45 is not pennies. I'd rather put the $45 towards a BCM (or other known brand) BCG, but that's just me.

[Dstrbdmedic167]

You can argue its cheapness all day. Its still not the same as say a San Tan Tactical [BD] or a Rainier Arms mod 3.... Lets run 10K rouds though each... If you make it all the way though the test you can color me impressed...

[UWone77]

You can argue its cheapness all day. Its still not the same as say a San Tan Tactical [BD] or a Rainier Arms mod 3.... Lets run 10K rouds though each... If you make it all the way though the test you can color me impressed...

There you go. Lots of people can say that it's cheap and works fine for them... because it's collecting dust in the safe, broken out twice a year for the 200 rounds a year they shoot through it.

For the most part I'm in the a lower is a lower as long as it's in spec. BCG's however are all over the place.

[Dstrbdmedic167]

There you go. Lots of people can say that it's cheap and works fine for them... because it's collecting dust in the safe, broken out twice a year for the 200 rounds a year they shoot through it.

For the most part I'm in the a lower is a lower as long as it's in spec. BCG's however are all over the place.

I'll agree on the lower as well. We all know it's a limited number of companies that actually make their own.

[alamo5000]

I think you missed the point of my post. Quality costs, plain and simple. The cost savings have to come from somewhere. Personally, I would never trust a $45 BCG in my AR15.

Since you see this as a "very good package for the price," do you own one of these receiver sets and BCGs? And have you run a few thousand rounds through it? This is a serious question. I'm not trying to poke fun or discredit you.

Perhaps it's just a glut of inventory Anderson wants to move, so they're willing to make very little profit on them. But when uppers/lowers cost half as much as Aero Precision, I start to worry a little bit. Toss in a BCG for half as much as some of the cheaper ones go for, and (in my opinion) it's too good to be true.

I have a phobia about this stuff to be honest. [BD]

It's not that I want to have the most awesome looking AR around, I just want to buy quality parts. I could easily have several $600 AR15's but in the end I would rather buy something awesome that I will like and trust a whole lot more.

The problem with AR's though is you have the ridiculously expensive stuff that really doesn't add to much of anything, but then you have the overly cheap 'junk'. Finding that stuff in the middle that is quality but a good value is where I'm at.

I shied away from buying a lot of stuff before because I was hesitant to jump on stuff just to say I have it.

I used billet in my build but I am curious about forged. That said my main thing now that limits me is cash. I have a friend who has like 5 AR's. They are marred up, spray painted, they look like crap. But he's soooo proud that he has FIVE of them.

I am not like that at all. I want 5 AR's but I might have to settle for two because that's what I would get spending the same amount of cash.

[Ride4frnt]

I think you missed the point of my post. Quality costs, plain and simple. The cost savings have to come from somewhere. Personally, I would never trust a $45 BCG in my AR15.

Since you see this as a "very good package for the price," do you own one of these receiver sets and BCGs? And have you run a few thousand rounds through it? This is a serious question. I'm not trying to poke fun or discredit you.

Perhaps it's just a glut of inventory Anderson wants to move, so they're willing to make very little profit on them. But when uppers/lowers cost half as much as Aero Precision, I start to worry a little bit. Toss in a BCG for half as much as some of the cheaper ones go for, and (in my opinion) it's too good to be true.

I have an Anderson lower, but it only has a handful of rounds through it. My AIM bcg has really held up well over a few thousand though. Surprisingly.

[WHSmithIV]

I'll try to dispense with something for the difference between billet and forged. Ounce for ounce, machined forged 7075 aluminum is stronger than machined billet 7075 aluminum (I worked in an aluminum factory - Nordic Aluminum - for some years). To make up for this, billet parts will usually have some extra strengthening machined into them. For forging, the metal is compressed into the machinable block of material. That compression creates grain lines in the metal .

When aluminum is melted in the foundry, it is melted into round bars a foot in diameter and generally about 10 ft long. Either billets (blocks) are cut from this bar and re-melted to be forged OR, they are machined directly.

So, what actually happens? In the re-melting and forging, the melted metal is pressed into a block under pressure that is then cooled for later machining. The advantage of this is that you can feed the entire 10ft. long bar into a furnace like is done for extruding aluminum and simply send the molten aluminum into pressure forms for the desired size block to be machined and you can mass produce thousands of blocks quickly. The pressure used for forging blocks aligns the aluminum molecules into grain lines (smaller than the eye can see) and because of that, the alignment of the molecules provides for some extra strength. For the billet block, you are cutting from that 10 ft. rod into block sizes. It's more time consuming and more expensive to do so. Those 10 ft. rods weren't made under pressure either so there are no grain lines created by the pressure of forging.

The overall difference is simply that the forged block is a little bit stronger but, because it has those grain lines inherent in the block, it's finish will be just a tiny bit rougher (and we're damn near getting close to microscopic here). The billet block that was cut direct from the rod will have a smoother surface for the machined part.

All anodizing does is align the surface molecules of either the machined billet block or the forged block after it's been machined in order to provide surface hardness to generally 1/10,000th of an inch. That's an electrolytic process and for color, generally a dye is introduced into the acid solution used for the anodizing. Anodizing with no dye will still change the surface color of the aluminum and that happens due to oxidation during the electrolytic process of anodizing.

So, the bottom line is that the forging process is cheaper for mass production of machinable blocks of aluminum, and the forged blocks are actually a bit stronger than the the billet blocks cut from the base rod. Their finish won't be quite as satin smooth is all.

This in no way detracts from billet parts. The strength difference is very small. Functionally, both are equivalent.

I do not see the point in paying double or triple or more for a metal part just because the surface of it is a little more satin smooth than a perfectly machined part from a forged block that is metalurgically actually stronger.

My rifle has billet receivers. It has a matched set of Phase 5 receivers. My (almost complete) 7.62x39 pistol has a forged Anderson receiver. Visually, it is next to impossible to really see any difference from over about 1-2 ft. If you look close, you can see the difference in surface finish, but you have to be REAL close. I can feel a slight tactile difference too with my fingers. It's a very small difference, but it's there and it's only because of the difference in the two metal manufacturing methods.

Just a side note. NEVER buy anything that is cast made. What happens with a cast part is that the molten metal is poured into a mold then simply let to cool or even cooled fairly quickly. This is REALLY bad for most gun parts. Because no pressure was involved to forge the part (and that certainly wouldn't work very well for something like a receiver either - they NEED to be machined from a block), there are stronger and weaker areas in the casting. No uniformity at all.




What a billet cut does provide is a better finish to the aluminum. Since the forging aligns the metal to

[WHSmithIV]

There you go. Lots of people can say that it's cheap and works fine for them... because it's collecting dust in the safe, broken out twice a year for the 200 rounds a year they shoot through it.

For the most part I'm in the a lower is a lower as long as it's in spec. BCG's however are all over the place.

Gotta agree with you there UWone (unless the lower was cast (God forbid!).

BCG's are a problem because they can be made from various steel forgings and you don't know which steel alloy they used.

[JoshAston]

Fairly certain AIM's BCGs are made by Toolcraft. I'd rather have a JP LMOS for a hard use rifle, but the AIM will serve the majority of shooters just fine.

[Slippers]

All anodizing does is align the surface molecules of either the machined billet block or the forged block after it's been machined in order to provide surface hardness to generally 1/10,000th of an inch.



Hard coat anodizing, which is basically what all parts are done with in the firearms industry, is much thicker. A good anodizer lets you specify the thickness, which is normally one or two thousandths of an inch (not ten-thousandths), with half being buildup on the outside of the part, and half going into the aluminum. This is very important because the tolerances on each part can change significantly. The fact that it builds up into the aluminum is also why it's so durable.

Anything you see that isn't black, elephant gray (6061 with no dye), or light bronze (7075 with no dye), is probably not hard coat, and will not be very durable. All those little magazine releases in rainbow colors are not hard coat anodized, for instance.

[GOST]

Fairly certain AIM's BCGs are made by Toolcraft. I'd rather have a JP LMOS for a hard use rifle, but the AIM will serve the majority of shooters just fine.

I don't know if they're Toolcraft or not but Cryptic Coatings also uses Toolcraft. I agree that the price will make you have doubts about what you're getting, but I can say that I've had nothing but great service and products from Aim Surplus. Not saying whether or not this is a good BCG, but I do think it's a good deal. Here is the description on the BCG from them:

AIM AR/M16 .223/5.56 complete Bolt Carrier Groups. We are having these bolts manufactured to our exacting standards with no Frills added to be able to offer the best BCG at the Best Price! Features 9310 Bolt Material; 8620 Chrome lined carrier and gas key; Properly staked Investment cast gas key hardened to USGI specifications fastened with Hardened Grade 8 Fasteners; Shot peened MPI (Magnetic Particle Inspected) Bolt. Extractor includes Black Insert.

[WHSmithIV]

Hard coat anodizing, which is basically what all parts are done with in the firearms industry, is much thicker. A good anodizer lets you specify the thickness, which is normally one or two thousandths of an inch (not ten-thousandths), with half being buildup on the outside of the part, and half going into the aluminum. This is very important because the tolerances on each part can change significantly. The fact that it builds up into the aluminum is also why it's so durable.

Anything you see that isn't black, elephant gray (6061 with no dye), or light bronze (7071 with no dye), is probably not hard coat, and will not be very durable. All those little magazine releases in rainbow colors are not hard coat anodized, for instance.


Anodizing doesn't 'go into the aluminum'. The electrolytic process of anodizing realigns the surface molecules (which also causes the color change to black from the chemical reaction of the acid with the aluminum). It is the alignment of the surface molecules of the metal that hardens it and makes it stronger. The longer you leave a part in an anodizing tank, the deeper the surface will be anodized. Keep in mind, whether it's 1 thousandth of an inch or 2 or even one 10 thousandth, it is only that depth of the surface molecules being realigned.

[Slippers]

Getting way off topic but oh well.

You get a build up of the oxide on the outside as well as penetration into the part. Hence the phrasing - going into the aluminum.

With regards to MIL-A-8625 Type III Class 2 hard coat anodizing, which is what we're talking about for AR15 parts, you get some color change without dye (which would be Class 1), but it's only going to look black like we expect it to if dye is applied after the part comes out of the acid bath, since it is very porous before it's sealed.

Fun fact - leave a black anodized part outside in the sun for a year or so and it turns brown as the dye breaks down.

[UWone77]

Will,

You've copied and pasted this before.

Maybe when a manufacturer like Slippers who actually does this for a living, speaks you should listen.

Try to stay in your lane.



I'll try to dispense with something for the difference between billet and forged. Ounce for ounce, machined forged 7075 aluminum is stronger than machined billet 7075 aluminum (I worked in an aluminum factory - Nordic Aluminum - for some years). To make up for this, billet parts will usually have some extra strengthening machined into them. For forging, the metal is compressed into the machinable block of material. That compression creates grain lines in the metal .

When aluminum is melted in the foundry, it is melted into round bars a foot in diameter and generally about 10 ft long. Either billets (blocks) are cut from this bar and re-melted to be forged OR, they are machined directly.

So, what actually happens? In the re-melting and forging, the melted metal is pressed into a block under pressure that is then cooled for later machining. The advantage of this is that you can feed the entire 10ft. long bar into a furnace like is done for extruding aluminum and simply send the molten aluminum into pressure forms for the desired size block to be machined and you can mass produce thousands of blocks quickly. The pressure used for forging blocks aligns the aluminum molecules into grain lines (smaller than the eye can see) and because of that, the alignment of the molecules provides for some extra strength. For the billet block, you are cutting from that 10 ft. rod into block sizes. It's more time consuming and more expensive to do so. Those 10 ft. rods weren't made under pressure either so there are no grain lines created by the pressure of forging.

The overall difference is simply that the forged block is a little bit stronger but, because it has those grain lines inherent in the block, it's finish will be just a tiny bit rougher (and we're damn near getting close to microscopic here). The billet block that was cut direct from the rod will have a smoother surface for the machined part.

All anodizing does is align the surface molecules of either the machined billet block or the forged block after it's been machined in order to provide surface hardness to generally 1/10,000th of an inch. That's an electrolytic process and for color, generally a dye is introduced into the acid solution used for the anodizing. Anodizing with no dye will still change the surface color of the aluminum and that happens due to oxidation during the electrolytic process of anodizing.

So, the bottom line is that the forging process is cheaper for mass production of machinable blocks of aluminum, and the forged blocks are actually a bit stronger than the the billet blocks cut from the base rod. Their finish won't be quite as satin smooth is all.

This in no way detracts from billet parts. The strength difference is very small. Functionally, both are equivalent.

I do not see the point in paying double or triple or more for a metal part just because the surface of it is a little more satin smooth than a perfectly machined part from a forged block that is metalurgically actually stronger.

My rifle has billet receivers. It has a matched set of Phase 5 receivers. My (almost complete) 7.62x39 pistol has a forged Anderson receiver. Visually, it is next to impossible to really see any difference from over about 1-2 ft. If you look close, you can see the difference in surface finish, but you have to be REAL close. I can feel a slight tactile difference too with my fingers. It's a very small difference, but it's there and it's only because of the difference in the two metal manufacturing methods.

Just a side note. NEVER buy anything that is cast made. What happens with a cast part is that the molten metal is poured into a mold then simply let to cool or even cooled fairly quickly. This is REALLY bad for most gun parts. Because no pressure was involved to forge the part (and that certainly wouldn't work very well for something like a receiver either - they NEED to be machined from a block), there are stronger and weaker areas in the casting. No uniformity at all.




What a billet cut does provide is a better finish to the aluminum. Since the forging aligns the metal to

[toolboxluis00200]

We need to trow this in to the T&E program [:D]


Never mind sold out

[GOST]

We already have a lot of items in the T&E program waiting on reviews.

[Dstrbdmedic167]

We already have a lot of items in the T&E program waiting on reviews.

Yes we do.

[toolboxluis00200]

We already have a lot of items in the T&E program waiting on reviews.

It was a joke

[UWone77]

It was a joke

Bam! First complete sentence!

Missing punctuation, but we're making progress!

[Txfilmmaker]

Awesome.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[GOST]

It was a joke

Well them jokes to post some reviews.[:D]

[WHSmithIV]

I didn't copy and paste it UWone, I wrote it from scratch. I thought I had already posted about this before too. Yep, it's getting off topic. Didn't mean to hijack the thread. Slippers is correct that if you leave a black anodized part out in the sun, the color will change. Most anodizing facilities add the dye to the acid bath and most machining facilities parts get sent out for anodizing - it isn't done in house. Extrusion factories often have their own anodizing tanks capable of handling large volumes of 6-8 ft. long extruded profiles. They also do smaller parts. I know several of them. Small part anodizing isn't all that expensive to set up though so I'm sure some companies do their own anodizing.

The AIM Surplus deal is a good deal whichever way you look at it.

[Dstrbdmedic167]

I'll just leave this here...

http://mrsngai.edublogs.org/files/2014/09/Digging-Hole001-2b3x5mi.jpg

[toolboxluis00200]

Bam! First complete sentence!

Missing punctuation, but we're making progress!

Lol. Good one

[Computalotapus]

Biting my tongue..... for now

[GOST]

Don't bite it off. I'm wanting see if you can really dig to China.

[Dstrbdmedic167]

Don't bite it off. I'm wanting see if you can really dig to China.

He's not the one that is or will be digging lol...

[akersc]

He's not the one that is or will be digging lol...

I'll dig the damn hole!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Dstrbdmedic167]

I'll dig the damn hole!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Lol glad too see you and holes already been dug...

[akersc]

Lol glad too see you and holes already been dug...

Not that kind of hole, the super secret black ops, I can't talk about kind 😂


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Dstrbdmedic167]

Not that kind of hole, the super secret black ops, I can't talk about kind 😂


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[:D][:D]

[alamo5000]

Bam! First complete sentence!

Missing punctuation, but we're making progress!


HAHAAA!!! NICE!!!

[WHSmithIV]

I'll dig the damn hole!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Make sure we can send tanks and troops through it! :)

[Dstrbdmedic167]

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/15/e3ade525ce60e5af13168fabaa92982a.jpg

[GOST]

I never knew some AIM Surplus plus a little anodizing, with some history would end up here.[:D]

[akersc]

I never knew some AIM Surplus plus a little anodizing, with some history would end up here.[:D]

Well when you have the history channel anchor as a member you're bound to get some lessons! Geez I thought you knew that......:oh wait it's top secret! 😜.

PS you missed me didn't ya!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[akersc]

Make sure we can send tanks and troops through it! :)

You go in first and make sure it's up to par. I'm a girl and we don't know much about holes.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[alamo5000]

Well when you have the history channel anchor as a member

I can't tell if this is some kind of inside joke or if you're serious LOL

[akersc]

I can't tell if this is some kind of inside joke or if you're serious LOL

It's me being a smartass. 😜


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Slippers]

Most anodizing facilities add the dye to the acid bath

The dye is done in a separate bath, after a rinse. Typically the anodizing acid bath and dye bath are at completely different temperatures. Most dyes have a critical ph range as well, so dropping them into an acid bath would make it almost impossible to maintain this.

The color of the aluminum can change during the acid bath, depending on the alloy. Dye is not involved for this to happen, which is what you may be thinking of. 6000 series tends to go gray/charcoal and 7000 series goes bronze-ish.

[mustangfreek]

Lol...Missing all the fun around here...

[toolboxluis00200]

Lol...Missing all the fun around here...

Yes u did

[akersc]

The dye is done in a separate bath, after a rinse. Typically the anodizing acid bath and dye bath are at completely different temperatures. Most dyes have a critical ph range as well, so dropping them into an acid bath would make it almost impossible to maintain this.

The color of the aluminum can change during the acid bath, depending on the alloy. Dye is not involved for this to happen, which is what you may be thinking of. 6000 series tends to go gray/charcoal and 7000 series goes bronze-ish.

<3 That is all :)

[SINNER]

I used to do some home anodizing. Dye bath is certainly a separate step. RIT clothing dye works almost as well as the branded anodizing dyes.

And getting lit up by the power supply is almost as bad as a stun gun. Lol

[UWone77]

http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/ab55/UWone77/Will2_zps6g9ff9ph.jpg (http://s849.photobucket.com/user/UWone77/media/Will2_zps6g9ff9ph.jpg.html)

[toolboxluis00200]

http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/ab55/UWone77/Will2_zps6g9ff9ph.jpg (http://s849.photobucket.com/user/UWone77/media/Will2_zps6g9ff9ph.jpg.html)

Meme is gold lol

[Computalotapus]

http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/ab55/UWone77/Will2_zps6g9ff9ph.jpg (http://s849.photobucket.com/user/UWone77/media/Will2_zps6g9ff9ph.jpg.html)


I laughed so hard at this

[GOST]

But I stayed in a Holiday Inn last night.

[alamo5000]

But I stayed in a Holiday Inn last night.

HAAHAAAA!!! GOOD ONE!!!

[mustangfreek]

http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/ab55/UWone77/Will2_zps6g9ff9ph.jpg (http://s849.photobucket.com/user/UWone77/media/Will2_zps6g9ff9ph.jpg.html)

Ahahahahaha...sorry but that was funny...About blew M dew all over the screen..lol..

[UWone77]

Oh what the heck.... one more....

http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/ab55/UWone77/Will_zpso0r8lctn.jpg (http://s849.photobucket.com/user/UWone77/media/Will_zpso0r8lctn.jpg.html)

[Computalotapus]

Oh what the heck.... one more....

http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/ab55/UWone77/Will_zpso0r8lctn.jpg (http://s849.photobucket.com/user/UWone77/media/Will_zpso0r8lctn.jpg.html)


Killing me man. Hahaha