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View Full Version : First build and -what would you do about this?



Farmhouse812
29 July 2015, 10:31
Hey WeaponEvolution, i'm new here and after dressing up a lot of off the shelf rifles and looking at Stickmans FB page a few months i decided to try and do my first build... every things good so far except i gouged the shit out of the upper when the vice padding failed a little. any advice on cover up? i don't mind dings, my rifles get used just wondered if i should do something to protect for rust- cause this is a crater... thanks http://i57.tinypic.com/259k4lz.jpg

update- heres how it turned out
http://i59.tinypic.com/2441hf4.jpg

velocity2006
29 July 2015, 10:58
Sharpie or Birchwood Casey super black, a gouge like that though isn't going to just touch up, I would probably just blast/cerakote it. Not really sure why you would chuck that part of the upper in the vice though.

Dstrbdmedic167
29 July 2015, 11:25
First welcome to WEVO! Nice choice of parts in your first build.

As far as the whoops goes as mentioned Cerakote is the only way to properly cover it up but the super black/ sharpie will cover it up to a degree.

I'm not sure what tools you may already have but make sure you have the right tools for the job. Spend a little now and save yourself some headache and money. Vise blocks are pretty cheap if you don't already have one and will save you from ohh $h.. Moments like this. Again welcome and feel to ask if you have any more questions.

UWone77
29 July 2015, 11:50
I usually just roll with idiot marks. I don't baby virtually any of my guns, so most of them have some scratches, dents, dings, whatever on them. On my last duty gun before we had to go to department guns, there is a huge gouge on a Centurion C4 Rail I got from training, during some barricade drills. I went prone, and the front of my gun slipped and hit the pavement. Oh well, it still shoots.

Sometimes I use the touch up pen:

http://www.amazon.com/Birchwood-Casey-Super-Black-Touch-Up/dp/B00JSAE00Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1438195642&sr=8-3&keywords=birchwood+casey+aluminum+black

But like someone already mentioned, looks like it's too big for a touch up. What I would do in your situation if it really bothered me? Cause I know it hurts when you to it to expensive parts like Lantac. I'd just decide what lower and and handguard I'm going to use and cerakote it. Can't go wrong with Titanium or Tungsten IMHO. Or send it off to Blown Deadline Custom for some real cerakote.

Joelski
29 July 2015, 12:07
I have decreed by executive order that aluminum shall not rust. ;)

Now, corrosion on the other hand; do what those guys said. :D

Farmhouse812
29 July 2015, 12:11
thanks for the advice/ replies...... and vice block is in the mail- lesson learned

UWone77
29 July 2015, 12:16
This reminds of the other thread recently where someone wanted to build their first new gun. Make sure you have the proper tools. Make sure whomever is providing the instructions, where it be a forum or youtube knows what they're doing and talking about.

Don't feel too bad though. From time to time, everyone, even those of us with experience has a tool slip. Lots of painters tape and proper tools like I said, will minimize these incidents.

Farmhouse812
29 July 2015, 12:19
^ and painters tape just made the shopping list- thanks UWone

Dstrbdmedic167
29 July 2015, 16:02
Yea we've all added "idiot marks" at one point or another.

WHSmithIV
29 July 2015, 18:10
If it isn't real deep, then go ahead and use a black sharpie. Althernately, you could go with some black nail polish or even flat black testors paint. That's a lot cheaper than sending the upper off for a cerakote job. If you want to remove the dust cover assembly, you could get a duracoat spray kit. They cost around $40 and you can spray the upper receiver yourself.

Be advised that if you send it off to Blown Deadline it will be probably 5 weeks before you get it back. He has generally a 4 week lead time. There may be companies near you that can do it faster since you're only doing one color.

SINNER
29 July 2015, 18:24
How deep is that gouge? Media blasting and Cerakote will hide very little surface imperfections.

Farmhouse812
30 July 2015, 04:26
ya, its deep..... I'm thinking about pulling it out of this project and sending it for a quality coat job on the next build i try, after considering all the feedback i got from you guys

GOST
30 July 2015, 05:05
If it's that deep a good Cerakoter could media blast the receiver then fill the gouged areas with some JB Weld or some other type of filler. Then sand those areas down flush. After that go over those areas with a low pressure media blast to get the same texture of the aluminum before Cerakoting. I've done this before and it turned out well.

SINNER
30 July 2015, 06:28
ya, its deep..... I'm thinking about pulling it out of this project and sending it for a quality coat job on the next build i try, after considering all the feedback i got from you guys

If you are building something that appearance is a concern I think that's your best bet.

Uffdaphil
30 July 2015, 07:00
I'd just use the Sharpie and match it up with my first lower with the bolt catch gouge.

Joelski
31 July 2015, 03:55
Replace the damaged part. Chalk it up to not masking and drive on. Lesson learned.

Its your first one and you're going to know that gouge is under whatever you try to cover it up with.

Next, ask yourself if you are going to shoot this rifle or look at it. Depending on the answer, either lock it in a safe, or take it out and shoot the hell out of it. In the process you'll add more marks, some insignificant, and some attached to memories. This is mojo; a reflection of the owner.

Farmhouse812
1 August 2015, 05:13
Here it is done set up as my everyday/ truck rifle... thanks again for the help!
http://i59.tinypic.com/2441hf4.jpg

Farmhouse812
1 August 2015, 05:21
http://i62.tinypic.com/zx2nnh.jpg
Noveske- Barrel (16" recce) & Gen 3 Lower
Lantac - Upper & BCG
Geissele- Rail & S3G trigger
Troy- HK BUIS

UWone77
1 August 2015, 19:07
Here it is done set up as my everyday/ truck rifle... thanks again for the help!
http://i59.tinypic.com/2441hf4.jpg

Looks great... but did you not use the shims to time the Surefire FH?

DutyUse
1 August 2015, 22:05
Yea we've all added "idiot marks" at one point or another.

^This.

If anything it just adds a little character to the rifle

Farmhouse812
2 August 2015, 05:11
"Looks great... but did you not use the shims to time the Surefire FH?" - i did not..... stupid question , but here it goes- is that just to have the suppressor controls lined up in a convenient place or does it have something to do with muzzle control- cause I've got a factory noveske, and lwrc that it doesn't seem like any thought was given to lining up the fh tangs / shim on AAC's? so i just kinda slapped it on there, where it torque stopped was it.

Farmhouse812
2 August 2015, 05:38
and again thanks for the feedback etc. . this is kinda something i'm picking up on my own as a hobby- don't have any buddies that do it. and the gun shops around here can barely answer questions about stuff they have on the shelf- a lot of blank stares - thats why this forum is A LOT of help- thanks!

DutyUse
2 August 2015, 05:47
Welcome to the sickness brother!

With a muzzle brake or compensator, it matters how it's oriented so you need to use shims (unless it just randomly happens to screw on the right way without them). But with flash hiders it's usually just an aesthetic issue; if you don't care how it looks don't bother using shims to time it.

Also, don't forget to use the included Rocksett when installing the muzzle device (whether or not you decide to use the shims). Make sure to clean the threads and then use just use a little bit of Rocksett, otherwise it will be a pain to get it off if you ever want to change it out.

toolboxluis00200
2 August 2015, 08:26
Here it is done set up as my everyday/ truck rifle... thanks again for the help!
http://i59.tinypic.com/2441hf4.jpg

That is very nice looking

gatordev
2 August 2015, 10:27
"Looks great... but did you not use the shims to time the Surefire FH?" - i did not..... stupid question , but here it goes- is that just to have the suppressor controls lined up in a convenient place or does it have something to do with muzzle control- cause I've got a factory noveske, and lwrc that it doesn't seem like any thought was given to lining up the fh tangs / shim on AAC's? so i just kinda slapped it on there, where it torque stopped was it.

Besides the shims, as DutyUse mentioned, there's also a "washer" that should be installed. Since most AR-15 barrels have a shoulder before the threads, the SF washer allows for the shoulder (it's beveled on one side) and allows the shims (or plain muzzle device) to rest on something that's known to be flat. Besides helping with suppressor alignment (which may not matter to you), it also keeps everything uniform when torquing on the muzzle device. It doesn't look like you have the barrel shoulder washer on there based on your pic.

As for where the tines go, there's a school of thought to put one tine at the 6 o'clock position, so that if you're shooting prone, the blast doesn't go straight down. I can't say if that's a worthy school of thought, but it's out there.

velocity2006
3 August 2015, 14:48
Curious to what method you took to fix the gouge in the upper. One on the completed rifle looks new, can't tell it was ever gouged if it's the same upper.

Farmhouse812
3 August 2015, 15:51
velocity2006--- the method i used was, sent more money to rainier for a new one i hadn't screwed up yet, and put the gouged one in a box to someday send out for a cerakote job when i need another project.... i wish that were the original upper