PDA

View Full Version : 300 Blackout Die Set



Deadwing
11 September 2015, 01:23
I just bought a bunch of reloading equipment from a buddy of mine, and have everything i need to get started reloading and then some. With my Saker 762 sitting in jail, a 300BLK upper is next on my list of projects, and i'd like to get what i need to reload 300BLK to make the most of it (shooting suppressed, that is). But, being new to reloading in general, i want to make sure i get a quality set of dies to start with so i don't throw good money after bad buying crap dies. My press is an RCBS Rock Chucker. Anyone have any suggestions as to which die set i should go with for reloading 300 BLK? Or which die sets offer an overall higher level of quality, regardless of caliber (i've got a few more i'll be needing like .44 Mag, .357 Sig, and 40 S&W).

Thanks in advance!

mustangfreek
11 September 2015, 01:40
Im still new to the blackout scene but am using a hornady 2 die set and the Lee crimp die. So far setting up dies and making some testers, all looks fine with the dies so far.

Deadwing
11 September 2015, 01:58
Cool, man. Thanks for the info! I suppose powder is something else i should be looking for. I'd have to check my notes, but i think i read that H110 is the cats meow for 300BLK (don't recall if that was for subs, supersonic, or both). Either way, H110 seems to be OOS, so i'll need to research an alternative.

Uffdaphil
11 September 2015, 03:44
From my reading H110 is good only for supers. For subs I narrowed down to Reloader7, A1680 and 5744 in that order. Consensus is that 1680 reliable, but dirty. I only found 5744 available at local stores. But got lucky finding all four privately on MN Armslist.

mustangfreek
11 September 2015, 03:50
H110, 4227,lil gun,aa1680 are some of the popular powders

Dstrbdmedic167
11 September 2015, 04:29
I use lee dies as they're cheap and they work great. Others have mentioned good powders. I like 1680 and lil gun personally. I have a fresh lb of 5744 that I have yet to test

SwissyJim
11 September 2015, 08:28
I use the RCBS small base dies, lee factory crimp, and H110 for supers and Reloder7 for subs. I have other powders that work as well, but these are my goto never fail choices.

BC98
11 September 2015, 14:59
I also use the RCBS die set/Lee FCD combo and it's worked very well for me. I've never been able to get a taper crimp set up so that I was comfortable, hence the Lee crimp die. For supers, I prefer Alliant 300 MP over H110. I've found it to gives me a little higher velocity without pressure signs. I haven't really started loading subs as (before the recent change in MN suppressor law) I never planned on owning a can. I did try out a few and used A1680.

Deadwing
12 September 2015, 01:45
This is some really good information. Thank you, gentlemen.

din
17 September 2015, 17:33
Thirding the RCBS small-base dies/Lee factory crimp die combo.

Deadwing
17 September 2015, 18:42
Thanks for the reply! I've ordered that exact combo, should be arriving early next week. I got about 10# of various powders from the guy I bought the reloading gear from. I need to go through it and see if any of them will be suitable for loading 300BLK. I'll probably wind up having to scour local shops to find what I need, or pay the ridiculous HAZMAT fee to get something shipped.

Deadwing
19 September 2015, 03:01
I found some Reloader7 in stock today, so i grabbed my limit of 2 pounds. I guess i'm kind of putting the cart before the horse by purchasing all this stuff, considering my can isn't up for parole for at least another month and i need to build an upper. The barrel will most likely be a Noveske 10.5", which will wear the Trifecta brake that comes with my can. I'm leaning toward a Geissele Mk 8 9.5" in DDC for the rail. Optic TBD, but will most likely be something in the 1-4x variety. The Trijicon AccuPower 1-4x24 looks like a great piece of glass for the money. I should probably start a new thread about the upper since the die question was answered. Now to start researching loads. I've got some Barnes tipped 110gr TAC-TX and Hornady 208gr A-Max bullets inbound, along with a shitload of brass. Still need to buy some powder for the supers.

cjd3
19 September 2015, 15:16
I just got the Hornady 2 die set, I will add the FCD to the mix later on. In anticipation, I bought 2 pounds of 1680 when i found it, I'll take Jim's lead and look for some 7 too. Now i just need to find a deal on bullets.

SwissyJim
19 September 2015, 16:59
for subs, look at SPS and their blems of Nosler 190g Custom Competitions. But if we keep telling our secrets, we'll never get them! LOL Seriously, when they have them in stock it makes sub loading much cheaper. The last time I bought I think it worked out to 19¢ a bullet? And the Re7 works very well with that weight, as does 1680

cjd3, I was at Cabelas yesterday and they had a decent stock of H110

Deadwing
20 September 2015, 00:25
Thanks for the tip, Jim! That's considerably cheaper than the A-Max bullets i bought. I think they worked out to 27¢ a bullet for me. I found a couple hundred Hornady 150gr FMJBT and a hundred Hornady 155gr A-max bullets in the boxes of stuff my bought from my buddy. So i'll have plenty to play with as far as supers go (when i can get my mitts on some powder). But it's suppressed subs i'm primarily interested in. My buddy was loading .30-06 Springfield, .223, and a bunch of handgun cartridges, so as far as powder goes, none of what i got from him is suitable for 300BLK (at least it's not listed in either of the reloading manuals i got). Interestingly, or not, the Hornady manual says A1680 works best for subs while still cycling the action. No mention was made if that means it'll reliably cycle the action unsuppressed, or if that statement applies only to suppressed shooting. And annoyingly, neither of my manuals has any load data for Reloader7.

SwissyJim
20 September 2015, 11:52
If you haven't already, check out 300blktalk.com, at least in the handloading section. There is a wealth of info, much like here, for reloaders. I've tested 1680, 5744, Re7, 4227, and I believe it was IMR4198 for sub use.I settled on Re7 due to a couple of reasons. One was it performed- from 190 to 220 I could get good results- accuracy was good, BHO on last round, SD was low and it was cleaner burning than 1680. It didn't hurt that I was able to find it when I could not get 1680. 1680 is the 'standard' sub powder, and I got the same good results, other than it was quite a bit dirtier burning. 5744 surprised me, as it was also a good performer, altho it did leave some unburned powder in the barrel. Magnum small rifle primers seemed to help, but I had already found I liked Re7 so I didn't pursue that testing. I know a lot of guys like 4227 for subs, but I did not get BHO with it and the 190gr Noslers. And since those are my cheap plinking rounds, the powder has got to work with them. For 220gr it seemed to work fine. Guys also post success with H110 and LilGun for subs, but those are my super powders and limited so I keep them for supers.

The Hornady 150FMJ are a good super round... also look at the Speer 125gr TNT, guys swear by them. And, of course, the 110gr Barnes.

All this was tested on my 8½ Aero 1:7 barrel with the .109 gas port so your results may vary. Also an adj gas block, but I also test with the block wide open, then gate it down once I find what I like. I also inputted info into Quikload to verify stuff and give me a starting point for testing.

mustangfreek
20 September 2015, 14:39
Ya i am still a newb to BO but have read a lot over there on 300bk, tons of info as Jim said.

Deadwing
21 September 2015, 02:41
If you haven't already, check out 300blktalk.com, at least in the handloading section. There is a wealth of info, much like here, for reloaders. I've tested 1680, 5744, Re7, 4227, and I believe it was IMR4198 for sub use.I settled on Re7 due to a couple of reasons. One was it performed- from 190 to 220 I could get good results- accuracy was good, BHO on last round, SD was low and it was cleaner burning than 1680. It didn't hurt that I was able to find it when I could not get 1680. 1680 is the 'standard' sub powder, and I got the same good results, other than it was quite a bit dirtier burning. 5744 surprised me, as it was also a good performer, altho it did leave some unburned powder in the barrel. Magnum small rifle primers seemed to help, but I had already found I liked Re7 so I didn't pursue that testing. I know a lot of guys like 4227 for subs, but I did not get BHO with it and the 190gr Noslers. And since those are my cheap plinking rounds, the powder has got to work with them. For 220gr it seemed to work fine. Guys also post success with H110 and LilGun for subs, but those are my super powders and limited so I keep them for supers.

The Hornady 150FMJ are a good super round... also look at the Speer 125gr TNT, guys swear by them. And, of course, the 110gr Barnes.

All this was tested on my 8½ Aero 1:7 barrel with the .109 gas port so your results may vary. Also an adj gas block, but I also test with the block wide open, then gate it down once I find what I like. I also inputted info into Quikload to verify stuff and give me a starting point for testing.

Thanks for the info, Jim! I realizes there are a lot of variables involved with creating load that'll work with ones specific gun, but appreciate all the information i can get my hands on. Sounds like Reloader7 is an overall good performing powder and a great powder to start with while i work up loads to test.

I've read that H110 is the same powder as W296, and the two can be used interchangeably. The interwebs being what it is, i don't want to take the word of some random jamoke at face value. From my research, it would appear to be true, as load data that lists both powders indicate identical powder charges and velocities for a given load. Do you have any experience on this front?


Ya i am still a newb to BO but have read a lot over there on 300bk, tons of info as Jim said.

Not only am i a newb to 300BLK, but i'm a newb to reloading/hand loading! I do have a couple things working in my favor though; i don't do things half-assed, and am a bit of a perfectionist. I plan on taking my time and using an abundance of caution. I really don't want my gun going kaboom, nor do i want to f-up my brand new silencer that i just waited half a year for.

SwissyJim
21 September 2015, 11:22
Thanks for the info, Jim! I realizes there are a lot of variables involved with creating load that'll work with ones specific gun, but appreciate all the information i can get my hands on. Sounds like Reloader7 is an overall good performing powder and a great powder to start with while i work up loads to test.

I've read that H110 is the same powder as W296, and the two can be used interchangeably. The interwebs being what it is, i don't want to take the word of some random jamoke at face value. From my research, it would appear to be true, as load data that lists both powders indicate identical powder charges and velocities for a given load. Do you have any experience on this front?


No, I have no personal experience with the H110/W296 front. But, like you, I did a lot of reading on it and from what I have read it is true. there are a few posters on 300blktalk that I have begun to trust thru their postings, and they have said the same. That said, I've never seen W296 nor tested it.

BC98
21 September 2015, 12:10
I've read that H110 is the same powder as W296, and the two can be used interchangeably. The interwebs being what it is, i don't want to take the word of some random jamoke at face value. From my research, it would appear to be true, as load data that lists both powders indicate identical powder charges and velocities for a given load. Do you have any experience on this front?


Hodgdon lists both powders with the same charges so I would roll with it if I were you.