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Sak007
29 February 2016, 22:21
I'm planing on picking up a case of corrosive primer brass Yugo surplus ammo and wanted to know if their would be any issues running it through a can If it's cleaned after each firing ?
I will be running an Omega on an 11.5 Ak sbr . My main reason for picking up this ammo is it's brass cased so I can reload it with berdan primers in an emergency situation .or am I just causing myself a lot of drama ?
http://www.sgammo.com/product/762x39/1120-round-crate-762x39-m67-non-magnetic-copper-fmj-brass-case-corrosive-yugo-surplus

Joelski
1 March 2016, 03:47
I am not a reloader, but guys I know tell me avoid eastern bloc ammo unless its life or death, economically. Lacquered steel, cheap plating and thin case walls are all realities of cheap fire & forget ammo, not to mention maintenance and warranty issues. Unless you have used this stuff before, why not grab a box to try first? Then you can see for yourself if it's going to be worth picking up off the ground.

alamo5000
1 March 2016, 04:12
I personally would not let corrosive ammo near any suppressor of mine. I am no expert but I would think it would seriously degrade the life of the can.

If I were thinking of reloading I would just start buying AK47 brass cases and the components to reload and skip the whole corrosive stuff all together.

I am a reloader and I would say unless you are going to just load a little bit you need a fairly decent setup to be able to reload in quantity. At the end of the day you will save money reloading if you do it regularly.

I would just buy powder, primer, bullets, brass and go with it.

SINNER
1 March 2016, 08:30
No way I'd ever run corrosive ammunition through a can. I will never run it through any firearm I own again as it is. Running it in a beater AK I was honestly shocked how bad it trashed that rifle. Even the dust cover and a few magazines I used in it showed damage from the corrosive powder.

I can see stockpiling the ammo just in case but I certainly would not waste time reloading it. Even using the cheapest reloading components any slight out of pocket savings will be quickly burnt up in your labor to reload it.

Jerry R
1 March 2016, 08:32
Unless you use the (very) messy hydraulic method of decapping Berdan cases, you will need something like The $65 Decapping Tool from Midway (http://www.midwayusa.com/Product/245983/rcbs-berdan-decapping-tool). I found large rifle Berdan primers for sale at Lohman Arms (http://www.lohmanarms.com/category-s/2102.htm) for around $40 per thousand (plus Hazmat shipping).

Costs seem negate any "emergency" value you may find by using berdan primed cases. If you feel you want to try that ammo - shoot it and leave the cases on the ground or police them and use for barter after TEOTWAWKI. [BD]

Personally, I am in the camp of those above that would never run corrosive ammo (Berdan or Boxer) through one of my suppressors. Cost per round savings just don't justify it.

Opinions stated are worth twice what you paid for them. [:D]

Sak007
1 March 2016, 16:53
So no-go on the corrosive ammo . I'm gonna try and find the cheapest boxer brass cased ammo probably Privy Partizan to shoot and just reload that .
I'm also gonna fiddle around on fabricating a berdan depriming die which is apparently non existent, so who knows maybe I'll get lucky .
Thanks for all the replies .

Jerry R
2 March 2016, 07:55
I'm also gonna fiddle around on fabricating a berdan depriming die which is apparently non existent, so who knows maybe I'll get lucky .

As you think about the design of a Berdan depriming die, remember that Berdan primed cases have two small holes on either side of the primer anvil. With two holes, each case must be perfectly aligned for the dual decapping pins; a real issue. If you don't use pins, you are back to designing a die that connects to a hydraulic system of some sort - again, very messy.

Sak007
2 March 2016, 14:12
As you think about the design of a Berdan depriming die, remember that Berdan primed cases have two small holes on either side of the primer anvil. With two holes, each case must be perfectly aligned for the dual decapping pins; a real issue. If you don't use pins, you are back to designing a die that connects to a hydraulic system of some sort - again, very messy.
I was gonna attempt to make a sorta neck sizer trident like design and go slowly and rotate til both holes were lined up . I realize this may not be the fastest or most efficient way to go about it but I have my radar locked on . And if it doesn't work I'll loose my shit and watch a bunch of cold war movies & probably go shoot a bunch of cabbage with tannerite inside . On another subject anyone know where to purchase bulk tannerite [:D]

Jerry R
2 March 2016, 15:04
watch a bunch of cold war movies & probably go shoot a bunch of cabbage with tannerite inside .

Now THAT sounds like a plan !!

SINNER
2 March 2016, 15:32
http://www.usachemicalsupply.com/apps/webstore/products/show/5257911

Sak007
2 March 2016, 17:00
http://www.usachemicalsupply.com/apps/webstore/products/show/5257911

Or maybe I'll use thermite to melt a hammer & sickle [:D]