Starting new build...need a suggestion

[rxer311]

So my wife was gracious enough the other night to purchase me a Noveske chainsaw marked lower (gen 1 forged) from Rainier Arms. I have some parts laying around that I want to use but here is what I am thinking at the moment.

I am going to build out the lower with a Magpul MOE SL stock, Ruger 2 stage trigger assembly, and Strike Industries enhanced small parts with an odin works extended mag release.

I don't have an upper receiver at the moment but am going to try and find a Noveske upper. Should I just get a matching Noveske forged upper? Or should I spring for a Noveske marked MUR1A upper? I would do a chainsaw of either if I can find one since my lower is already a chainsaw.

I already have a Voodoo 14.5" barrel with a pinned manimal flash hider ready to do so I am definitely using this as I have built out 2 rifles with these and have been more than pleased with the results. The final part that I need a suggestion for is the handguard. I really like both the BCM KMR alpha handguards as well as the new seekins slim keymods as I have used both. I was thinking of continuing with the Noveske theme and getting a 13.5" NSR for it, but the cost of these is so much more than my other viable options. Can anybody chime in about the NSR rails and let me know about their opinion on them? I would love to build as much Noveske as possible on this one, but Noveske parts come at a premium price which does not necessary equate to increased performance IMO. For me at this point, the Noveske logo is more of a novelty for me (as I have wanted to build a "noveske" rifle for a while) but don't want to overspend on certain parts that may or may not perform better.

Thanks for the advice. You can also help me fund my new build by buying my parts in the classifieds [:D]

[n4p226r]

The mur is nice. I have one of each Noveske upper. I think that's my favorite. Also all my rifles have 13.5" NSR so you know I'll answer go for that too

[n4p226r]

Is the barrel already pinned? Does it have a gas block and barrel nut on it already?

[rxer311]

Theanimal flash hider is low profile and a gas block and barrel nut fit right over them. They come already pinned and you can still disassemble the entire rifle. Best thing to happen to 14.5" barrels since...ever.

[Aragorn]

I'd probably get an SLR of some sort or a Midwest Industries rail over a KMR Alpha, but I'd get a legit KMR over all those options. The NSR I had was ok, but nothing to write home about about. If you just want it because it says Noveske, then rest assured it WILL work as well as the others, but not better. If you just want the Noveske look, then check out SMOS. Admittedly though I don't know what those are running in terms of cost right now.

Really though, get what you want. It does sting when you finish a rifle and it's not a exactly what you want. Especially when only 50$ or so more bucks would have got you there.

[rxer311]

Just curious as to why you opine that a legit kmr is that much better than the alpha version since the alpha is still aluminum and only weighs may 1 oz more. Are there other differences that I am not aware of?

[UWone77]

If you want to build a "Noveske" I'd get a Noveske barrel. I know you already have a barrel, but the heart and soul of Noveske is their barrels. Seems like it would be a shame to throw anything else on there if truly building a Noveske is what you wanted to do. Noveske barrels come pinned with a gas block and gas tube, so when adding it all up, the price difference isn't as bad as it looks. I've seen some used barrels on arfcom for a lot less than retail.

I know some people have had issues with them the last year, but they seem to have worked out any problems they may have had on the barrel side.

[Aragorn]

Just curious as to why you opine that a legit kmr is that much better than the alpha version since the alpha is still aluminum and only weighs may 1 oz more. Are there other differences that I am not aware of?

2 oz. Or 2.2 to be ultra specific. Not that it's better, just lighter, and at around the cost of the Alpha you could get something like an SLR Helix which is nearly identical weight to the original KMR. Some of the MI rails weigh the same as the KMR Alpha but with a shaved (not sure proper term) top rail so you have a smaller circumference. The Helix does as well, as well a couple other of the SLR series.

It's just about weight for me. I think the forend is THE best place to shave weight (due to forward location) without any fear of performance penalties (like some lightweight barrels have when they get hot, such as POI shift).

[rxer311]

2 oz. Or 2.2 to be ultra specific. Not that it's better, just lighter, and at around the cost of the Alpha you could get something like an SLR Helix which is nearly identical weight to the original KMR. Some of the MI rails weigh the same as the KMR Alpha but with a shaved (not sure proper term) top rail so you have a smaller circumference. The Helix does as well, as well a couple other of the SLR series.

It's just about weight for me. I think the forend is THE best place to shave weight (due to forward location) without any fear of performance penalties (like some lightweight barrels have when they get hot, such as POI shift).

Thank you. Point taken.

[n4p226r]

Theanimal flash hider is low profile and a gas block and barrel nut fit right over them. They come already pinned and you can still disassemble the entire rifle. Best thing to happen to 14.5" barrels since...ever.

Who makes it?

[Aragorn]

Who makes it?

http://www.voodooinnovations.com/vdi-manimal-extended-flash-hider

I can vouch for these as well. I put one on a gift rifle I made for a friend. You can change barrels, gas blocks, whatever. They just slip right over the muzzle device. Pretty slick. Extended A2 performance.

[rxer311]

http://www.voodooinnovations.com/14-5-mid-length-government-profile-voodoo-barrel-pinned-with-manimal-flash-hider

I was able to get 3 of these at Joeboboutfitters.com for $189. They are sold out at the moment though.

[Slippers]

If you want a KMR, I highly recommend the Alpha version over the original. While it weighs a tiny bit more, it's stronger and the material is harder. I have dented and deformed a couple of the original KMRs during destructive testing.

Not that it really matters, but the Alpha version is also hard coat anodized, whereas the magnesium alloy version's finish flakes right off without much effort.

[rxer311]

Thanks Slippers. I guess there are pros and cons to each of the KMR rails.

I think though, I am going to do what UW0ne77 said and do this right. Going to do the NSR rail and find a Noveske barrel. I might have to sell my barrel to fund this though.

If anybody needs a middy piston kit, a switch rail, or a barrel hit me up in the classifieds LOL. This might take me a while to build!

[Slippers]

I did the same a few years ago, did a full Noveske build. Then I ditched the nsr and have been using Geissele ever since.

I hate the nsr barrel nut. It sucks.

[rxer311]

Maybe I will rethink the rail then...

[UWone77]

I agree. The NSR barrel but is crap and the main reason I have 1 or 2 installed. The rest got replaced for other rails like Geissele as Slippers mentioned.

I know SMOS was looking at redesigning the barrel nut when they were making NSRs

[BoilerUp]

2 oz. Or 2.2 to be ultra specific. Not that it's better, just lighter, and at around the cost of the Alpha you could get something like an SLR Helix which is nearly identical weight to the original KMR. Some of the MI rails weigh the same as the KMR Alpha but with a shaved (not sure proper term) top rail so you have a smaller circumference. The Helix does as well, as well a couple other of the SLR series.

It's just about weight for me. I think the forend is THE best place to shave weight (due to forward location) without any fear of performance penalties (like some lightweight barrels have when they get hot, such as POI shift).

Seems like the Helix is closer in price-point to the original KMR than the Alpha. You can get the 13" KMR-A for around $160 if you look around and I suspect it would be hard to find the Helix 13.7 for much less than $220.

For all the talk of the M-LOK being cheaper to manufacturer, it's interesting to see that the M-LOK Helix cost $5 more than the KeyMod.

[fledge]

That's an apples/oranges comparison. Helix doesn't merely machine mlok slots.

[rxer311]

https://www.odinworks.com/O2_Lite_KMod_Forend_p/f-12-km-o2.htm

I would also be interested in trying this new rail system as well. I wonder how strong it actually is?

[Aragorn]

Guess you could always split the difference and get a KMR Alpha and install it with a V7 Ti barrel nut, then you'd have the stronger forend and only be an oz more than the lighter one.

[DeviantLogic]

I agree the barrel nut sucks with the NSR, but it's also something that you're probably only going to have to mess with once. I wouldn't walk away from the NSR rail just because of it. Compared to installing a KAC URX 4 over a pinned gas block, the Noveske is a walk in the park.

[BoilerUp]

That's an apples/oranges comparison. Helix doesn't merely machine mlok slots.

Comparing the 13.7" Helix M-LOK ( http://slrrifleworks.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=66_106_143&product_id=721#!prettyPhoto )to the 13.7" Helix KeyMod ( http://slrrifleworks.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=66_106_143&product_id=720 ) is apples/oranges?

[rxer311]

Comparing the 13.7" Helix M-LOK ( http://slrrifleworks.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=66_106_143&product_id=721#!prettyPhoto )to the 13.7" Helix KeyMod ( http://slrrifleworks.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=66_106_143&product_id=720 ) is apples/oranges?

Its a moot point at the moment...as both are not in stock...

[Aragorn]

Both are in stock at Rainier in all lengths.

https://www.rainierarms.com/upper/handguard-systems/ar-15-handguards/slrrifleworks

[fledge]

Comparing the 13.7" Helix M-LOK to the 13.7" Helix KeyMod is apples/oranges?

Sorry. I misunderstood. Thought you were comparing KMR to Helix. Price difference must be supply/demand difference.

[rxer311]

Okay so update...

Since I finished my lower off I started getting parts for my upper. Just picked up a Noveske MUR upper and 13.5" NSR rail. Now I just need to find the right barrel for this build.

[velocity2006]

Look for a 14.5" Afghan if you can find one, that is what I would try to find if I were building that upper and rail combo.

[rxer311]

Look for a 14.5" Afghan if you can find one, that is what I would try to find if I were building that upper and rail combo.

This is what I am thinking as well.

[n4p226r]

What's the problem with the NSR barrel nut?

[Slippers]

What's the problem with the NSR barrel nut?

It's a pain to time it, as compared to a rail system like the BCM KMR or Geissele SMR where you torque the nut to a specific value, and it doesn't matter where it stops. The NSR has to be timed so the screws that secure the handguard to it are lined up at precision the 3/6/9 o'clock. Sometimes this takes up to 80-90 ft. lbs. of torque.

[SINNER]

It's a challenge for the slow kids. LOL The design requires the nut to be timed, complicating the install.

[n4p226r]

It's a pain to time it, as compared to a rail system like the BCM KMR or Geissele SMR where you torque the nut to a specific value, and it doesn't matter where it stops. The NSR has to be timed so the screws that secure the handguard to it are lined up at precision the 3/6/9 o'clock. Sometimes this takes up to 80-90 ft. lbs. of torque.

Ah. I had purchased a shim kit from g&r when I did mine so I didn't have to over torque it. My second one lined up perfectly around 40 ft lbs