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JustMatt
12 March 2009, 06:38
So my Noveske 16" SS barrel is here and then all i'm waiting on is a new UBR and MIAD grip thats on backorder everywhere (and I refuse to drop 400+ for a $260 dollar stock on ebay). So I have a few more questions.
1. I was toying with the idea of spraying the DD rail, lower, upper and barrel with Norells Moly Resin before I do the assembly. Should I get the gun together first and then coat it or do the parts individually before I assemble them?
2. What kinda of prep should I take before/during installing the barrel?
3. OTIS has some fancy shmancy ceramic barrel coating out. Is it worth it and would it benefit a stainless steel barrel? That Noveske barrel cost a lot of cash and I wanna get the most out of it.
4. What do I need besides a torque wrench to assemble my upper properly? (coating or lubricant where barrel and upper meat)
5. Do I need to worry about headspace or is this not a issue? (oh, and what exactly is headspace anyway?)

Stickman
12 March 2009, 11:06
So my Noveske 16" SS barrel is here and then all i'm waiting on is a new UBR and MIAD grip thats on backorder everywhere (and I refuse to drop 400+ for a $260 dollar stock on ebay). So I have a few more questions.
1. I was toying with the idea of spraying the DD rail, lower, upper and barrel with Norells Moly Resin before I do the assembly. Should I get the gun together first and then coat it or do the parts individually before I assemble them?
2. What kinda of prep should I take before/during installing the barrel?
3. OTIS has some fancy shmancy ceramic barrel coating out. Is it worth it and would it benefit a stainless steel barrel? That Noveske barrel cost a lot of cash and I wanna get the most out of it.
4. What do I need besides a torque wrench to assemble my upper properly? (coating or lubricant where barrel and upper meat)
5. Do I need to worry about headspace or is this not a issue? (oh, and what exactly is headspace anyway?)


I would spray and cure it while everything was apart, then grease or oil the parts while you are putting everything together. When you are putting the barrel into the upper, make sure you grease it.

I wouldn't use anything additional on a Noveske SS barrel, but you could always give Noveske Rifleworks a call. Aside from a barrel wrench, you will also need receiver blocks to hold it in place. Headspace is fine if you are using a decent bolt.

JustMatt
12 March 2009, 12:40
Thanks Stick. What kind of grease, CLP, SLiP or a heavier grease?

Dutch
12 March 2009, 14:23
JustMatt,

CLP, TW-25B, either of those will serve you well. I would'nt personally go any heavier as far a lubricant.

I also would not use the OTIS ceramic barrel coating, when I spoke to OTIS at SHOT 2 years ago, this product was being pushed then as a "restoral" item i.e. use it on older possibly worn barrels.

Dutch

SHIHAN
12 March 2009, 18:28
Stick was referaing to using Moly Grease when you do the barrel install so you dont get galling.

JustMatt
12 March 2009, 18:30
So stay away from the OTIS ceramic suff! will do. Thanks for the info Dutch. I test fitted the barrel to my MUR upper and applied a liberal dose of CLP on it. It was a tight fit and I had to tap it in with a nylon capped hammer. If I spray the upper with the Norells Moly Resin, is that going to affect the fit? I know it's not a paint but I can't seem to get myself to trust that it won't add a appreciable amount of thickness. That barrel is a tight fit. And should I spray the barrel as well or should I just leave it with the matte finish? I live in Florida if that makes any difference (humidity). And my last question (for now anyway) is , I would like to use the Adams Arms piston system along with there one piece bolt carrier. Am I going to have any issues with the Adams Arms gas block and the Noveske barrel? I plan to email AA and ask them but I always appreciate a unbiased oppinion.

John Hwang
12 March 2009, 21:35
If I'm using a high quality barrel, I'd want it head spaced properly. 1 or 2 out of 10 bolts & barrels we head space don't head space properly. Don't get me wrong, it will still shoot but if you are going to spend that kind of money on parts, you want it all fitting right. If it goes with the NO-GO gauge, it's still safe to fire but to have the best results you want a proper fit. What Stickman is saying is true, most AR shooters are going to be fine when using a new bolt & barrel from a safety stand point but if I'm dropping serious coin on a nice barrel, I want it to fit perfectly.

It's like buying a Ferrari and using shitty tires.

As far as refinishing, ceracoat is one of the strongest finishes I've seen. PS, you can use any high temp grease for the barrel & upper. We just marine engine grease. Why? That's what I had sitting in my garage...

JustMatt
13 March 2009, 16:22
Thanks for the info. It makes sense to have it done properly, especially seeing how this build is gonna cost me about what a Noveske Light would brand new (thats if you can even get one).