View Full Version : Polymer80 80% Lower - what are you going to build?
FortTom
3 February 2017, 22:28
If you ordered one of the new Gen2 polymer frames from Rainer, what are your plans for it. I'm still pretty vague about specifics, especially the lower parts, but my plans are to send it to Battle Cock first, mill the frame when it gets back, install the supplied parts, and piece together the upper. I'm going (I hope) to get a 32 slide, barrel, etc.. and put together a .357 Sig, a caliber I've never owned, and probably just a subdued cerekote job that a friend will probably do for free or cheap.
As for a trigger, I'm going to lean towards reliability over flash, and I'm not sure at this point what that will be, or maybe it will be stock with the FT 37 cent trigger job (I go a little beyond the standard .25 cent trigger job that's been around forever;))
So a cool, functional stippling job, OD cerekoted slide in .357sig and keep it simple and clean, is what I'm going to go for.
FT
Dstrbdmedic167
4 February 2017, 04:51
For now I'm just gonna finish the lower and use my 19 Slide until I pick one up for it. Not in a dish to find one but casually looking here and there.
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FortTom
5 February 2017, 12:25
For now I'm just gonna finish the lower and use my 19 Slide until I pick one up for it. Not in a dish to find one but casually looking here and there.
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D-Medic, they used to pop up fairly often on the GlockTalk forum. Haven't been there in a long while so not so sure anymore, but if you don't already, you might check them out occasionally.
FT
Dstrbdmedic167
5 February 2017, 12:42
D-Medic, they used to pop up fairly often on the GlockTalk forum. Haven't been there in a long while so not so sure anymore, but if you don't already, you might check them out occasionally.
FT
Will do. Thanks FT
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fledge
8 February 2017, 14:29
Just got this from Rainier:
"After testing of the new lower frames, Polymer80 decided to do a nitride treatment on portions of the lower to increase durability and longevity. Unfortunately, this will delay the lowers until the end of the month. As soon as we get them in, they will be ready for pickup or to be shipped out. I apologize for any inconvenience. Thank you very much."
KW900A
20 February 2017, 07:55
I'm looking at getting in on the preorder for the 19 frame. I have no solid plans yet, a few ideas I have tossed around in my head, but thats about it. Stippling for sure though. I've been browsing triggers, slides and barrels for a few weeks now.
fledge
24 February 2017, 18:02
Just got shipping notification.
FortTom
24 February 2017, 21:44
Just got shipping notification.
Yeah, and I got nothing...:mad: Seriously though, I wish they'd tell us where we are in the queue. I guess that just might be a logistical nightmare, figuring that out and notifying everyone. I went to their website and they stated that they will be shipping intermittingly until the orders are fulfilled. I've got most of my parts ordered, with just the barrel and trigger to go. I've decided to keep this project simple for reliability, just concentrating on a few area's for enhanced performance.[:D]
UWone77
24 February 2017, 21:52
Glock Store has 17 and 19 slides for $250
http://www.glockstore.com/Deals/Firearm-Friday
FortTom
24 February 2017, 22:24
I'm looking for a barrel. The aftermarket barrels I've tried have been LW or KKM. I've heard really good things about Wilson Combat Glock barrels, and Storm Lake barrel (reviews, I've never owned one) are kind of all over the place, and from what I understand, they take great pride in their pricing over what little performance gains they give as far as accuracy. May just go with the WC and use my MIL discount. Actually, had I just went to the store and bought a G32 .357Sig, I probably had just leave the stock barrel in it, for sheer reliability, and decent self-defense accuracy. Hopefully I'll get my buddy to cerrakote the slide while the receiver is getting stippled. Then, it should just take about an hour or so to get everything put together. Waiting on UWone77 to get those triggers in and give us an idea of how they work out.[:D]
tact
25 February 2017, 05:27
I have read less than stellar reviews from WC and Storm Lake. I will try and find the review where a user unaffiliated with any company did a test over 1/2 dozen barrels. The test covered different ranges and different bullet weights.
Not sure if crossposting from other forums is an issue so I just pm'd the review/test.
Besides those, I'm personally going to give Blacklist a try as I hear that they're pretty accurate with the 147s I like to run.
UWone77
25 February 2017, 05:46
I think I linked that article in another pistol/Glock thread.
Honestly, I've had good luck with that Blacklist Industries barrel that I posted in the review section. Very accurate. I've also had good results with S3F and ZEV Barrels.
KW900A
25 February 2017, 06:49
For what its worth, My M&P 9 has a threaded Wilson combat barrel on it and I have been very happy with it, thinking about the same for the 19 I currently have
Stickman
25 February 2017, 12:29
Glock Store has 17 and 19 slides for $250
http://www.glockstore.com/Deals/Firearm-Friday
At that price, it seems worth buying a blue label Glock and just selling off the parts not needed....
fledge
1 March 2017, 12:00
I got shipping notification on Feb 23. It hasn't moved from being a label since then. Must not be available yet.
FortTom
2 March 2017, 01:27
At that price, it seems worth buying a blue label Glock and just selling off the parts not needed....
The smart thing, for me would have been to buy a G32 and say the heck with it.[:D] I just wanted to try an 80% from a piece of paper up. For me it certainly didn't make economic sense, that's for sure.
FT
Dstrbdmedic167
10 April 2017, 17:00
For those waiting...
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170411/7d73b0e6c7beaab5cf6deb796c939cd1.jpg
FortTom
11 April 2017, 17:37
Great, got the slide back from buddy (cerakote) yesterday. All new parts waiting in a box. Then off to Battle Cock, and finally a fully functional .357 Sig. Was really getting anxious.
FT[:D]
UWone77
11 April 2017, 17:54
Great, got the slide back from buddy (cerakote) yesterday. All new parts waiting in a box. Then off to Battle Cock, and finally a fully functional .357 Sig. Was really getting anxious.
FT[:D]
What? No in progress pics FT?!
FortTom
15 April 2017, 00:44
What? No in progress pics FT?!
Ha..ha.. nah, just a small box with a whole bunch of parts in it...[:D]
fledge
15 April 2017, 14:53
http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/b556/fledge2000/Polymer80/B0A952D0-BB7F-45BB-8D65-AB92D328D499_zps2gu1jzwo.jpg (http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/fledge2000/media/Polymer80/B0A952D0-BB7F-45BB-8D65-AB92D328D499_zps2gu1jzwo.jpg.html)
FortTom
15 April 2017, 16:38
:cool: Cool. Was hoping mine got here today, but I wouldn't have got out in the mail to Battle Cock anyway..
FT
Battle Cock
26 April 2017, 09:14
This one's Ft Tom's but I've also got Fledge's and Dstrbdmedic's finished and sitting on my desk.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170426/6c77f49d34889c79bcfced348dd944f0.jpg
Dstrbdmedic167
26 April 2017, 09:47
This one's Ft Tom's but I've also got Fledge's and Dstrbdmedic's finished and sitting on my desk.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170426/6c77f49d34889c79bcfced348dd944f0.jpg
You mean you didn't get a group photo? Lol, looking good!
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fledge
26 April 2017, 14:52
Looking good... without a serial, would we even know the difference? ;)
Battle Cock
26 April 2017, 14:53
Looking good... without a serial, would we even know the difference? ;)
You wouldn't. I would.
mustangfreek
26 April 2017, 16:02
I'm jelly over.....Those look good.
Definetly need this..
Battle Cock
26 April 2017, 16:16
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2877/33448883384_f4eb7b37af_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/SXLgFW)Battlecock (https://flic.kr/p/SXLgFW) by Battle Cock (https://www.flickr.com/photos/139563678@N06/), on Flickr
UWone77
27 April 2017, 15:59
Those P80 frames look so much better than I thought they would. Nice work!
I so need to send you more frames.
FortTom
29 April 2017, 19:24
In case anyone here doesn't know, BATTLE COCK does outstanding stippling if you need or want that work done. I just received my P80 frame back from him today. It looks even better in my hand than it does in the above pictures. There were functional issues too, which he resolved, and still managed to do so tastefully. Plus, I'm going to impersonate him and steal his name. When women ask me my name, I'm going to tell them....... well, you know.
Thanks B.C. If I don't screw up the "machining" it will be one nice and unique piece.
FT[:D]
Dstrbdmedic167
29 April 2017, 19:46
If I don't screw up the "machining" it will be one nice and unique piece.
FT[:D]
This is my biggest fear with these. Scared I'm gonna screw it up somehow...
Battle Cock
29 April 2017, 19:51
In case anyone here doesn't know, BATTLE COCK does outstanding stippling if you need or want that work done. I just received my P80 frame back from him today. It looks even better in my hand than it does in the above pictures. There were functional issues too, which he resolved, and still managed to do so tastefully. Plus, I'm going to impersonate him and steal his name. When women ask me my name, I'm going to tell them....... well, you know.
Thanks B.C. If I don't screw up the "machining" it will be one nice and unique piece.
FT[:D]
Just hop on youtube and watch MORE THAN one video on how to do it and then go slow when you do. You can always take off more material. Adding it back in is a little trickier.
Also, telling women that in some circles you are known as "Battle Cock" doesn't really work. I would know. [BD]
FortTom
29 April 2017, 20:05
Just hop on youtube and watch MORE THAN one video on how to do it and then go slow when you do. You can always take off more material. Adding it back in is a little trickier.
Also, telling women that in some circles you are known as "Battle Cock" doesn't really work. I would know. [BD]
As far as the machining goes, I'll be alright. Unless I do something seriously stupid, which I have to admit, I've been guilty of before. I've got a "little" experience. No worries though, I'll be using a friend's mill, and he's a master machinist and he'll be watching over my shoulder.
As far as appropriating your name, all I can say is damn...thought I had something going for me there for a moment.
FT[:D]
UWone77
30 April 2017, 17:58
In case anyone here doesn't know, BATTLE COCK does outstanding stippling if you need or want that work done. I just received my P80 frame back from him today. It looks even better in my hand than it does in the above pictures. There were functional issues too, which he resolved, and still managed to do so tastefully. Plus, I'm going to impersonate him and steal his name. When women ask me my name, I'm going to tell them....... well, you know.
Thanks B.C. If I don't screw up the "machining" it will be one nice and unique piece.
FT[:D]
How that BC is working under a FFL, it would seem like it's a better idea to machine it first, check for fit/function, then send it off for stippling.
Battle Cock
30 April 2017, 18:14
How that BC is working under a FFL, it would seem like it's a better idea to machine it first, check for fit/function, then send it off for stippling.
Gotta put identifying marks on it like a serial number if you want to send it out for work after machining.
FortTom
30 April 2017, 20:27
I agree. It would be worth the effort to stamp a number or letter or two on the plate, and make sure you have a firearm that will function before you spend the extra money.
BTW - I've been thinking about this. Is there some legal parameters as far as choosing a serial number for a "one off" project like this? If you did a second, would they have to be consecutive, and/or would you be considered a manufacturer? I wouldn't even begin to know where to start looking for the answer to this. Thanks ahead.
FT[:D]
UWone77
30 April 2017, 20:48
Gotta put identifying marks on it like a serial number if you want to send it out for work after machining.
This Polymer 80 thing sounds worse and worse. [BD][:D]
Battle Cock
30 April 2017, 20:50
This Polymer 80 thing sounds worse and worse. [BD][:D]
You don't have to register it or anything. Those marks are just so your FFL can properly log it without scrutiny.
UWone77
30 April 2017, 20:53
You don't have to register it or anything. Those marks are just so your FFL can properly log it without scrutiny.
My comment was obviously in jest. I'm still doing one. I've got enough Glock parts floating around for another 19 build. The Polymer80 is cheap enough to try out for me.
Battle Cock
30 April 2017, 21:06
If I'm sending it to an FFL for work, not transfer, I don't have to send it through an FFL, just to an FFL and back to me, unless the law has changed in the last couple of years, correct? Example: I sent a pistol to APEX tactical a couple of years ago, and I just sent it FedEx straight to them, and they sent it back to my house, no problem.
FT
You are correct. Apex is the FFL that would need the identifying marks for their books.
Axlnut
30 April 2017, 21:33
You are correct. Apex is the FFL that would need the identifying marks for their books.
It can be logged without.. but it's sketchy at inspection time, although likely becoming more common. I won't take unmarked "modern" DIY guns in, for that reason. I do get repairs in of old stuff that has no SN, I just mark NA in that category.
Axlnut
30 April 2017, 21:39
I agree. It would be worth the effort to stamp a number or letter or two on the plate, and make sure you have a firearm that will function before you spend the extra money.
BTW - I've been thinking about this. Is there some legal parameters as far as choosing a serial number for a "one off" project like this? If you did a second, would they have to be consecutive, and/or would you be considered a manufacturer? I wouldn't even begin to know where to start looking for the answer to this. Thanks ahead.
FT[:D]
Nope to all. Mark whatever you want. There are restrictions in place when it comes to marking formats for licensed manufacturers, but not to individuals building a personal gun.
Mark it 1, 8, K, 007 - whatever. You are just giving it a designation to log in for an FFL or LEO - it's still weird on the logbooks because the manufacturer field gets left "NA"
Battle Cock
30 April 2017, 21:41
It can be logged without.. but it's sketchy at inspection time, although likely becoming more common. I won't take unmarked "modern" DIY guns in, for that reason. I do get repairs in of old stuff that has no SN, I just mark NA in that category.
I asked LP to pose that question to the local ATF agent at a meeting and he said their stance was that all modern private builds required ID marks to be logged at an FFL.
That might not be the hardline (in writing) nationwide but I ain't going to toe that line any more than I need to.
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You've seen the stippling, but have you seen this? ;)
http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/b556/fledge2000/Polymer80/D2C7B4F4-D690-4E82-9BC1-F0ECB131EBD2_zps7i6ekdfk.jpg (http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/fledge2000/media/Polymer80/D2C7B4F4-D690-4E82-9BC1-F0ECB131EBD2_zps7i6ekdfk.jpg.html)
Dstrbdmedic167
2 May 2017, 11:26
You've seen the stippling, but have you seen this? ;)
http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/b556/fledge2000/Polymer80/D2C7B4F4-D690-4E82-9BC1-F0ECB131EBD2_zps7i6ekdfk.jpg (http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/fledge2000/media/Polymer80/D2C7B4F4-D690-4E82-9BC1-F0ECB131EBD2_zps7i6ekdfk.jpg.html)
I've got one of those [emoji6]. Just wait till you see the work Battlecock did on my receiver!
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Battle Cock
2 May 2017, 11:28
I've got one of those [emoji6]. Just wait till you see the work Battlecock did on my receiver!
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Uhhh... Phrasing?
Dstrbdmedic167
2 May 2017, 12:58
Uhhh... Phrasing?
I know what I said. Giggity Giggity.
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Dstrbdmedic167
2 May 2017, 17:08
Well this also happened.. Can't wait to get this done!
3252
3253
mustangfreek
2 May 2017, 17:21
Nice and clean
What's the plan for the slide ?
Dstrbdmedic167
2 May 2017, 17:28
Nice and clean
What's the plan for the slide ?
The Zev Spartan more than likely
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Dstrbdmedic167
6 May 2017, 18:57
And done! Took about 2 hours to mill, finish by hand and install the parts. Now I just need a slide!
(Cell phone shot BC it's late and I'm lazy)
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170507/0779e4df57e568ff34f62eabf389d580.jpg
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Aberration79
10 May 2017, 09:48
Damn you guys! I finished my PF940C, but the damn rear pin hole doesn't line up with the rail. The rail is sitting about 1/16", maybe less, too high. Waiting on the delivery of another rear rail module.
http://i364.photobucket.com/albums/oo90/Aberration_01/2D784248-E02A-41B6-A00B-F2D0DE84EE37_zpss3jo1wpr.jpg
FortTom
10 May 2017, 09:54
Did you drill the hole straight through, or one side then flip and drill the other. Sort of looks like the bit deflected. Anyway, sorry to see it. That definitely sucks.
FT:(
Dstrbdmedic167
10 May 2017, 12:25
^^ curious as well.
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Aberration79
18 May 2017, 09:14
One side, then the other. Then ran the drill all the way through while still in the jig. They sent me another rear rail module, same problem. They had me destroy the frame, then sent me a whole new kit, and that one was still just a hair off but was able to work the pin in. Nice tight fit. Here she is completed. So far 100 rounds no failures. The important parts being the Apex Brownells red trigger, ZEV V4 connector and complete Glock slide. I will most likely replace the slide with a Grey Ghost Precision/Aero Precision slide when they are released. If they release a G19. If just a G17 I will still get one, and wait for P80 to release an updated G17 frame :). I used an Apex failure resistant extractor. And mostly Lone Wolf frame parts. I installed Warren Tactical flat black rear and tritium front sight. The rear rails took a bit of filing to keep the slide from binding. It took me a few hours as I moved slowly. Oh and I am waiting on a ZEV titanium pin set. Because titanium.
http://i364.photobucket.com/albums/oo90/Aberration_01/6D10B448-BFB7-42FC-B222-0B0E5FEAEF32_zpspns7rebb.jpg
Aberration79
18 May 2017, 09:17
P.S. I have noticed something with this kit that has given me great concern. I have shared the information with P80 and am waiting to see how they respond before I let the cat out. But I think honestly you can expect to hear them say something in the not too distant future. I am no Glock/Firearm expert but I do troubleshoot far more complex equipment, and I don't think what I am seeing is wrong.
Edit: P80 replied and said based on the pictures its an out of spec rear rail. They are sending another. From everything I read about problems with the PF940C, they have all been rear rail module related. I think they really need to take a hard look at their quality control. Especially when its 2x what I can get a finished Glock frame for. No excuses.
mustangfreek
18 May 2017, 15:30
Huh..thanks for the info
I agree for the price you shouldn't have any problems per say
FortTom
20 May 2017, 07:40
I hope to hell mines o.k., since I've already had mine stippled by Battle Cock! Just got back from fishing in FL Keys, so won't get to my bud's mill until Monday, at the earliest. Now I guess I've got to hold my freaking breath until I find out, huh? Thanks for the warning and posting the thread.
FT[:D]
Aberration79
20 May 2017, 15:49
With a safety issue like this, I can't just keep my mouth shut. Especially since P80 made no indication they were going to issue any kind of warning or anything to their customers. They say on their sight its low to medium skill task. This kind of work is not listed or mentioned anywhere. That aint right.
Here is the issue. I went to an indoor range, fired 100 rounds without failure. Came home tore it down to inspect and clean. While doing function checks I find the trigger doesn't always reset. Not only does not it always reset, sometimes it acted like it was going to reset and released the striker, while letting out the trigger. So I look online and see people mention problems with the disconnect and adjustable trigger/ejector housings. So I started backing out the screw on the housing. But nothing changed. I couldn't really see real good, so I order an orange Glock half backplate. But I keep looking into it. And what I find is the trigger bar is contacting the rear rail module. The crucible I think they call it is not even contacting the ejector housing adjustment screw. And without that screw its got like 3-4mm more to travel! My feeling is there are a lot of people who have finished these who think they got a real sweet trigger. So for I got 3 rails out of spec. This 4th one is supposed to be in spec. That doesn't give me a lot of confidence in the safety of the products out in the field. I also wonder what the impact is on the trigger bar being banged again this rail, depending on how ham fisted the shooter is. And all it would take is for them to cut this rear rail back so the trigger moves the full range in the OEM housing. These rails are much longer than the OEM. I filed this part of the rail and rounded the edge to give more clearance, then moved the ejector housing 'over travel' adjustment screw in until it was contacting the screw and not the rail.
I could have put a round through the ceiling or into the floor because of this. At an indoor range. Or worse. They would have been furious. I would have been furious. Stay safe guys. From what I read its suggested at least half of the striker is engaged by the crucible. I do advice everyone checks this.
Here you can see where its contacting.
http://i364.photobucket.com/albums/oo90/Aberration_01/238D484E-1F59-470F-8599-64160856061C_zpshhq8asn4.jpg
Here you can see how much further the crucible has to travel in the housing.
http://i364.photobucket.com/albums/oo90/Aberration_01/C94C188F-C555-4495-B384-C87D9578E911_zpsdxlqg8x8.jpg
Can someone explain the allure of all this 80% lower stuff?
Aberration79
20 May 2017, 19:41
For me, it was just putting in the effort of making it and choosing all my parts. Having NFA items I am not so concerned with it being unregistered.
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Aberration79 thanks for the post showing the issue.
FortTom
21 May 2017, 13:23
Can someone explain the allure of all this 80% lower stuff?
Because I can. Seriously, not trying to be a smartass, but for me it's been a one time thing, where I can choose every separate component, and do as I wish.
I could buy a stock Glock 32, for much less, but then if I completely gutted it, the frame still wouldn't be the same, then stippling, then hand pick every single component. If that's not what someone's looking for, then for me, it wouldn't be worth the time and effort. It's not a "budget" "Glock", just a project to screw around with, and hopefully get a sweet running .357 Sig out of it.
So, I guess that's the "allure". For me it's more of an experiment than an "allure", that, and I've always been a bit of a tinkerer.
FT[:D]
A project.....ok I get that.
UWone77
21 May 2017, 13:35
Glockstore just had factory frames a week ago for $50/per on 17/19's. Even with shipping they averaged out to $70/per.
This is basically what has prevented me from going a Poly80. I'd much rather have factory frames, even if they do have serial numbers.
UWone77
21 May 2017, 13:38
Can someone explain the allure of all this 80% lower stuff?
I just wish someone would do an aluminum 80% Glock Lower... now that would be interesting!
tact, there's a segment of the market prepared for the day of gun confiscation. 80% receivers / frames are off the govt lists. Of course the govt could subpoena sales records and credit cards...
Gun confiscation?? Really....
A project I get, other than that I don't get it.
Gun confiscation?? Really....
A project I get, other than that I don't get it.
In NY, they were already caught publishing gun owners addresses. If you are in the registers, criminals know who to hit.
In CA, they are implementing confiscation of magazines.
The Left has tipped their hand in the last couple years that they want to make semi-autos illegal (they tried banning handguns in the 70s) and abolish the 2a. They also favor national gun owner databases.
Some take these current events seriously and spreading. Some think the Left is tolerant.
UWone77
21 May 2017, 15:23
Gun confiscation?? Really....
A project I get, other than that I don't get it.
I agree.
If the government is coming for my stuff, I'm not going to care too much about my 80% glock 19 they don't know about. [BD]
Aberration79
21 May 2017, 22:11
Aberration79 thanks for the post showing the issue.
If anyone knows people to pass this on to where it would reach a much larger audience I would appreciate it. I honestly don't want anyone to have a true AD and wind up damaging property or hurting themselves.
FortTom
22 May 2017, 13:31
If anyone knows people to pass this on to where it would reach a much larger audience I would appreciate it. I honestly don't want anyone to have a true AD and wind up damaging property or hurting themselves.
Thanks for posting that. I'll double and triple check that before it goes to the range for testing. Maybe you can go over to GLOCKTALK.com and post it there?
FT[:D]
Battle Cock
22 May 2017, 13:50
If anyone knows people to pass this on to where it would reach a much larger audience I would appreciate it. I honestly don't want anyone to have a true AD and wind up damaging property or hurting themselves.
Have you taken a rubber mallet and performed a drop/strike test on it? Compress the striker and use the mallet to strike it sharply on the slide plate to simulate dropping it.
Aberration79
22 May 2017, 14:05
Thanks for posting that. I'll double and triple check that before it goes to the range for testing. Maybe you can go over to GLOCKTALK.com and post it there?
FT[:D]
I have in the Gunsmithing section. Maybe I will try and PM a mod about a different subforum.
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Aberration79
22 May 2017, 14:06
Have you taken a rubber mallet and performed a drop/strike test on it? Compress the striker and use the mallet to strike it sharply on the slide plate to simulate dropping it.
I havent. But I have already filed the rail to solve the problem. I can, but I do not suspect it to be a problem at this point.
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[QUOTE=Aberration79;150461]If anyone knows people to pass this on to where it would reach a much larger audience I would appreciate it. I honestly don't want anyone to have a true AD and wind up damaging property or hurting themseI
If your ejector housing has any sort of "adjustment screw" then you are running a mix of aftermarket, well... garbage.
All Glocks contact the plastic portion of the rear rail at the bend in the trigger bar arm when no slide is present, this is a non issue. You don't need to spread your message to a wider audience, but instead take all the aftermarket / possibly wrong parts out of your gun, make sure your frame is milled 100% correctly, gain a greater understanding of how the parts interact, and test again.
Aberration79
22 May 2017, 19:42
If your ejector housing has any sort of "adjustment screw" then you are running a mix of aftermarket, well... garbage.
All Glocks contact the plastic portion of the rear rail at the bend in the trigger bar arm when no slide is present, this is a non issue. You don't need to spread your message to a wider audience, but instead take all the aftermarket / possibly wrong parts out of your gun, make sure your frame is milled 100% correctly, gain a greater understanding of how the parts interact, and test again.
The ejector housing is a Glock housing that is tapped for a setscrew to reduce over travel. The cruciform was not even contacting the adjustment screw and so it can not be a problem. When I first discovered the problem my first thought was the connector as that seems to be a common problem. Its not that complicated. There is bulge in the slide that moves the connector aside and allows the spring to pull the cruciform up. When I engaged the connector before the cruciform did not spring up. It was sluggish. If its sluggish moving up, its not going to engage the striker reliably. I then filed some off the rail, and now it springs up and engages the striker. I can replicate this by adjusting the overtravel screw in so it stops before the rail, as if before I filed the rail.
If there is something I missed, fill me in. Don't just dismiss it because aftermarket parts and tell me to learn more. Actually tell me what is wrong with the part or what I don't know.
P.S. New rear rail is getting installed now. My only regret here is not taking pictures and documenting the failure. Since I got 2 other out of spec rails, where the pin didn't line up between the frame and the rail, I might try them both to see if they have the same problem. Unless the pin doesn't line up, then its moot.
The ejector housing is a Glock housing that is tapped for a setscrew to reduce over travel. The cruciform was not even contacting the adjustment screw and so it can not be a problem. When I first discovered the problem my first thought was the connector as that seems to be a common problem. Its not that complicated. There is bulge in the slide that moves the connector aside and allows the spring to pull the cruciform up. When I engaged the connector before the cruciform did not spring up. It was sluggish. If its sluggish moving up, its not going to engage the striker reliably. I then filed some off the rail, and now it springs up and engages the striker. I can replicate this by adjusting the overtravel screw in so it stops before the rail, as if before I filed the rail.
If there is something I missed, fill me in. Don't just dismiss it because aftermarket parts and tell me to learn more. Actually tell me what is wrong with the part or what I don't know.
P.S. New rear rail is getting installed now. My only regret here is not taking pictures and documenting the failure. Since I got 2 other out of spec rails, where the pin didn't line up between the frame and the rail, I might try them both to see if they have the same problem. Unless the pin doesn't line up, then its moot.
Ok, lets start with this:
I just measured P80 940C and a G19. The area of the frame (it's not really a frame rail) that the trigger bar contacts are the exact same length. They are the same distance from every verifiable data point on the frame.
The issue you describe with the cruciform not cleanly releasing from the connector is common on new pistols, and pistols assembled from various parts. It can be the factory "lube", a mis-adjusted connector, an aftermarket slide not fitting will, connector not seated fully, etc etc.
I have personally witnessed it dozens of times and it is usually fixed by taking everything apart, cleaning it, applying the proper single drop of lube, and making sure it is re-assembled right.
I suspect your fix was the same, you just added a bunch of un-needed filing.
I don't mean to be dismissive, I just want to stop your goal of shouting from a rooftop downing a product you have had (multiple) issues with, that can all be easily and commonly attributed to an error in final "machining" or assembling.
Aberration79
22 May 2017, 22:41
Thanks for being constructive. The new rail is in. Its not lubed at all, I wiped it down when I took it apart. It has a problem resetting. IMO any problem with a trigger resetting, especially if the striker is being released without pulling the trigger is an issue that should be shouted from the roof top. What issues in final machining or assembly would cause this. I will look at it.
When I did the filing it was a simple process. Pull the slide off, punch the pin, lift the extractor housing, file the side of the rail. Put it together, check the reset. I did this until the trigger reset. Criticizing a product is not downing it.
I tried installing the other 2 rails in this frame. This issue is the same, the hole through the rail does not line up to the frame. Yet I have 2 rails in which the holes in the rail do line up to the frame.
Glock projects have taken a big part of what used to be the AR market. And like the AR market the 80% frames cost more than their finished counterparts. Also with these 80% projects determining the error will probably take more effort, another reason I would prefer an OEM frame to start a project. But take my opinion with a grain of salt, cause I'm also one who does not like to shoot another's reloads due to safety.
FortTom
23 May 2017, 12:43
Glock projects have taken a big part of what used to be the AR market. And like the AR market the 80% frames cost more than their finished counterparts. Also with these 80% projects determining the error will probably take more effort, another reason I would prefer an OEM frame to start a project. But take my opinion with a grain of salt, cause I'm also one who does not like to shoot another's reloads due to safety.
GOST, I see these same arguments pop up every time someone mentions building an 80% project. "frames cost more..da..da..da..etc.
By your logic most folks on this forum wouldn't be here. Most here, it seems, tend to build their own AR's, starting with a clean sheet of paper, and ending up with a finished rifle. Most people could probably buy an off-the-shelf AR for far less than it would cost to build a decent rifle, using non-OEM parts. Then there's the cost of tools, etc..etc...
The off-the-shelf AR should probably work just fine out of the box...The home built AR may require trouble shooting to various degrees. The off-the-shelf rifle should have a warranty, the home built will require your own trouble shooting.
Anyone who thinks it's a "budget" solution to having a nice "glock-like" pistol is sadly mistaken. But I'm sure the vast majority of folks who do this kind of thing are pretty much aware of the costs and perils of building their own, and are up to the challenge and "heartache" if all does not go exactly as planned.
The same applies to a "home built" AR. They are rarely a good alternative proposition, if costs are the major factor in deciding to buy vs. build. You can almost always buy a quality factory weapon for less $$ than building your own.
Chances are, a poorly built AR, albeit low, can result in your rifle turning into shrapnel in your face, is as real as having a poorly built Glock kit take your hand off.
So if you apply your logic to the AR builds, from a non-OEM box of parts, I'm afraid not many folks would be building them either. The "ease" of buying over doing an 80% project, or the costs vs. just going out and buying one, should not even be a consideration for folks taking these projects on. I think, like myself, most are experimenter's and tinkerers and know this going in.
...(three grains of salt) for you, buddy!;)
FT[:D]
My previous post FT is referring to both 80% Glock frames and 80% AR lowers, as I described in the post. I might be wrong FT but I doubt that the majority here are assembling AR's using 80% lowers. I have assembled several AR's with finished lowers, but have never used an 80% for the reasons I noted. You may have several more using 80% Glock frames, but again I would guess that the majority here assembling Glocks are using OEM frames. If 80% is your thing then go for, but I personally rather not.
FortTom
23 May 2017, 14:57
My previous post FT is referring to both 80% Glock frames and 80% AR lowers, as I described in the post. I might be wrong FT but I doubt that the majority here are assembling AR's using 80% lowers. I have assembled several AR's with finished lowers, but have never used an 80% for the reasons I noted. You may have several more using 80% Glock frames, but again I would guess that the majority here assembling Glocks are using OEM frames. If 80% is your thing then go for, but I personally rather not.
Actually, I never mentioned 80% AR Lowers, especially the polymer type, don't know where you got the idea that I was referring to most folks here using 80% AR lowers. I would guess that that number would be closer to 0%. I was speaking of people making the argument that it's cheaper to buy a Glock OEM receiver. Yeah, we get it. Now, what if you like the P80 frame better than the Glock frame, as far as the shape and ergonomics.
I was speaking to the point that folks who build AR's out of aftermarket AR parts, usually know going in, that it's more expensive to build than to buy. That's all. The usual warning that it's cheaper to buy a Glock frame..etc..etc., is pretty moot, and really doesn't apply unless somebody is under the false impression that it's a money saving tactic to just drill a couple of holes and mill a little plastic. Match grade barrels, premium triggers, the frame, stippling, a slide, and all of the bits and pieces add up to probably twice what a stock Glock would cost. If a person doesn't know that going in, they probably need to study the proposition a little more before proceeding with an 80% frame proposition.
Also, 80% is not my "thing". It's a one time deal for me, because as I've stated it's an experiment. And if the majority of folks here are building custom Glocks on OEM frames, well that's cool too, I wasn't speaking to that crowd.
..... (have some more salt)[:D]
FT;)
The post I made that you quoted was comparing 80% Glock frames to 80% AR lowers. My opinion on the 80% Glock frames is the same on 80% AR lowers. I also would have preferred metal slide rails on the rear of the frame. Others in this thread have also discussed preference for OEM frames for similar reasons as mine, just my opinion it's fine that we disagree.
Aberration79
4 June 2017, 09:10
The PF940C has metal rails on the rear.
Just an FYI on my build. I was on North Dakota and got back last night. Got the stock Glock trigger, connector and spring in. Same problem. If hold the trigger to the rear, with a half backplate, you can see the cruciform part that interacts with the connecter flex in, and doesn't repeatably get clear of the connector. Since I know the problem and solved it before, I am just going to file and round off the part of the rear rail that the trigger bar/cruciform contacts and flexes at.
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