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  1. #16
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    I decided to go with the Volquartsen Precision Competition Kit. Bolt, Receiver, and Trigger, everything I need to finish off my 10/22

    https://volquartsen.com/products/341...ompetition-kit

    Looking forward to at least hitting the 100 yard range with it. Probably overkill for a Gemtech MIST barrel, but whatever.

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by UWone77 View Post
    I decided to go with the Volquartsen Precision Competition Kit. Bolt, Receiver, and Trigger, everything I need to finish off my 10/22

    https://volquartsen.com/products/341...ompetition-kit

    Looking forward to at least hitting the 100 yard range with it. Probably overkill for a Gemtech MIST barrel, but whatever.
    Nice. I don't think you overdid it at all. I prefer Kidd but that was only based on comparing triggers between the two.

    Hitting a 100 yard 1/2 size target is not a problem but when you shoot subs and when it gets windy it gets pretty fun. 15mph crosswind with subsonic 22LR... I had to aim like 5 feet to the right and about 3 feet high.

    For real accuracy I have been testing ammo. Federal UltraMatch is the most expensive stuff out there (that I tested) but I got really good accuracy out of it and it's subsonic. So far I've tested about 10 different brands out of my rifle and pistol both. Moreso the pistol because I had to screw around with it more than the rifle.

    Let us know how she shoots once you put it together. Odds are you will see giant differences in accuracy depending on the brand and type of ammo.

    If I get the chance (not high on the priority list) I will build a gun around one of these:

    https://volquartsen.com/inventory_configurations/1378

    I have found that shooting with a suppressor will gum up your 10/22 action after a while.

  3. #18
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    Alamo and Phil, have you studied lead buildup in your cans to see if it's really a thing with .22 ammo? Would be curious to see how much of a thing that really is. You guys have me interested in an optimus micro and some kind of 10/22; perhaps a backpacker combo.
    There's no "Team" in F**K YOU!

  4. #19
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    Helped a friend build a 10/22 with a PWS Summit action, 16” Kidd Bull barrel and Kidd 2-stage booger hook. 3-12x42 optic in a Boyd’s stock. Tried all types of ammo: Gemtech, Eley, Wolf match, SK, CCI Green Tag. Shoots MOA @ 100yds

    It’s amazing to shoot. Absolutely smooth


    And Joelski, go for it!! The OPM is awesome

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joelski View Post
    Alamo and Phil, have you studied lead buildup in your cans to see if it's really a thing with .22 ammo? Would be curious to see how much of a thing that really is. You guys have me interested in an optimus micro and some kind of 10/22; perhaps a backpacker combo.
    I am shooting my Revolution 9 configured for .22LR while I wait for my OPM to get set free. I shot probably 1,500 to 2,000 rounds through the can and finally gave it it's first cleaning yesterday. It was like there was tar filling up half the baffles. Dude, that thing was NASTY.

    A couple of thoughts after that little experiment.

    I went waaaay too long in between cleanings. The diameter of the Revolution is bigger than any regular .22 LR can but I can see that I over did it some. With that amount of gunk in a smaller diameter can it would have basically nearly clogged it up and/or had so much build up that it could impact the bullet and cause a baffle strike. In other words keep your can fairly clean and it will be gtg.

    Another important lesson---build materials and design matters---a lot. Now I know for sure that having a fully shielded can makes all the difference. if you're in there trying to brush out hard caked on stuff from your tube, it will really suck. As for baffles mine are SS. The OPM is also SS. You can just throw them in a wet tumbler and they will be gtg. Mine I had to tumble through three cycles but they came out looking brand spanking new.

    Others will have to confirm this because I never dealt with cans of other build types, but funky weird baffle designs and especially baffles that are made out of other materials will be a royal PITA (my personal opinion- and part of the reason I bought the OPM). Things like aluminum baffles not only are more porous, but gunk (and lead) will build up on those and be twice as hard to get off. One because of the material, but two because you can't use any simple yet more 'rough' ways to get it off.

    I don't know how people clean say a pure aluminum can. Somebody else will have to chime in there but it seems like it would be much more of a PITA than just tossing the baffles in a rotary tumbler and going to bed.

    Directly to your question, it's a thing, but it depends on your can. The design, construction, and materials matter. After my little endurance test for the suppressor (albeit a 9mm configurable can) it still shed a lot of light on things. IMO if you stick with the fully shielded designs and SS baffles this is much better if only for maintenance reasons.

  6. #21
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    I have an aluminum .22 can. I coat the monocore with a thin coat of dielectric grease. It acts as an ablative and I can wipe the core clean with a paper towel (wearing gloves of course) and stuffing another paper towel down in the tube, spinning it around and pulling it out cleans the tube sufficiently well. Reapply grease and reinstall. I’ve also never had the core lock up inside the tube after shooting either. My 9mm van is aluminum but has K baffles; principle is the same

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Former11B View Post
    I have an aluminum .22 can. I coat the monocore with a thin coat of dielectric grease. It acts as an ablative and I can wipe the core clean with a paper towel (wearing gloves of course) and stuffing another paper towel down in the tube, spinning it around and pulling it out cleans the tube sufficiently well. Reapply grease and reinstall. I’ve also never had the core lock up inside the tube after shooting either. My 9mm van is aluminum but has K baffles; principle is the same
    Better to go with the OPM for .22LR Less grease and less leg work. LOL!

    I had to wet tumble the baffles for a total of 9 hours and they were SPOTLESS.

    Joel, at the end of the day carbon build up is a thing. You can try to prevent it or you can try to get it off but just know what you are working with before you start and it should be ok. About 500 rounds +- a hundred or two and you should be cleaning a .22 diameter can. Just how easy you want that job to be is up to you and what you pick for a .22 LR option.

  8. #23
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    NINE HOURS? More like nine minutes and my cam was back in business. Also, cleaning them to a brand new state is counter productive; they’re quieter with a little crud on them

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Former11B View Post
    NINE HOURS? More like nine minutes and my cam was back in business. Also, cleaning them to a brand new state is counter productive; they’re quieter with a little crud on them
    They probably were done a lot sooner than that. I just turned it on and left it for a while. I figured one run wasn't enough considering I shot probably right around 2,000 rounds of .22 LR through it. There was so much gunk and grime.

    I will get mine dirty again soon enough. I wanted to shoot some 9mm so I had to clean it up before I changed configurations.

  10. #25
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    Wow! That's got me wondering how the Ti baffles in my Alpha will fare. I've yet to clean it, however I haven't put many rounds through it since getting it; maybe 480 to 500, I need to check my book. Still, I figure Ti will end-up somewhere in between SS and Al on the pain-in-the-ass scale. Griffin recommends using a 1.5" steel pipe brush for cleaning the tube. It's 17-4 SS which according to them is tough stuff as far as tubes go. I figure a brush on a drill should have it decently clean in no time (I hope). I was considering an ultrasound cleaner to get the crap buildup off the baffles, but not sure that's a stout enough measure. I was really entertaining that thought on the hope someone would chime in that it works and that would be a start on all the shite I need to start reloading. I've got a bucket of .300 BLK brass waiting on me to get my ass in gear on that, but would much rather go shooting than ride a bench stool and pretend I'm playing the slots!
    There's no "Team" in F**K YOU!

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joelski View Post
    Wow! That's got me wondering how the Ti baffles in my Alpha will fare. I've yet to clean it, however I haven't put many rounds through it since getting it; maybe 480 to 500, I need to check my book. Still, I figure Ti will end-up somewhere in between SS and Al on the pain-in-the-ass scale. Griffin recommends using a 1.5" steel pipe brush for cleaning the tube. It's 17-4 SS which according to them is tough stuff as far as tubes go. I figure a brush on a drill should have it decently clean in no time (I hope). I was considering an ultrasound cleaner to get the crap buildup off the baffles, but not sure that's a stout enough measure. I was really entertaining that thought on the hope someone would chime in that it works and that would be a start on all the shite I need to start reloading. I've got a bucket of .300 BLK brass waiting on me to get my ass in gear on that, but would much rather go shooting than ride a bench stool and pretend I'm playing the slots!
    The baffles are the main thing to worry about. See below that I found on Silencer Shop's site. As for the tube a round wire brush is fine. You can even snip the handle of it off and put it in a drill. Zip. Clean. I am pretty sure that can is shielded (the baffles cover the whole inside of the tube) so it should only require minimal work.

    One thing to make sure of is to NOT damage the threads on your can when you do any of this.


    • Aluminum: Do NOT use ultrasonic cleaners, harsh solvents, or steel brushes/picks. To avoid permanent damage, only use safe chemicals and brass or plastic utensils.
    • Stainless steel: Use essentially anything… It’s not rocket science concerning this material, but tread lightly when using certain chemicals (e.g., paint thinners, hydrogen peroxide, “the dip”) due to the reaction created between the metal and the solvent. You don’t want your Q El Camino to be unpretty.
    • Titanium: See stainless steel. Moreover, brass tumblers seem to work well cleaning both titanium and stainless steel models (e.g., Sig Sauer SRD 45, AAC Ti-Rant 9M).


    https://www.silencershop.com/blog/po...an-my-silencer

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChattanoogaPhil View Post
    The plastic stock that comes with the FV-SR works ok, but I wanted something heavier for bench shooting with a higher cheek rest. Really not a lot to chose from. Selected a Boyd's "Tacticool" stock. I think they have since changed the flaky name to something a bit more respectable haha. Anyway, the barrel channel is more than adequate for the heavy-profile FV-SR barrel. No touching. The bottom metal was really weak so I purchased a D.I.P. bottom metal and trigger guard kit. Bottom metal is much thicker and allows for more precise torque on the action screws. Still, the cheek height wasn't high enough so I picked up a Midway cheek riser. Ah... just right.
    Have you considered bedding the action? Curious to know if it would make any significant impact on accuracy

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by schambers View Post
    Have you considered bedding the action? Curious to know if it would make any significant impact on accuracy
    Bedding on a .22? I'm not an expert but I think it would only matter maybe for some crazy bench rest stuff.

    I could be wrong but who knows.

  14. #29
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    Its more common when people are using composite wood stocks.

    I've also known people to bed 22lr actions as a way of practice before doing a larger action or when doing trainer builds. Most 22 stocks don't have a chassis system and when spending hundreds on a precision build, why not spend an extra $30 on some martex and get a more accurate mating surface?

    Quote Originally Posted by alamo5000 View Post
    Bedding on a .22? I'm not an expert but I think it would only matter maybe for some crazy bench rest stuff.

    I could be wrong but who knows.

  15. #30
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    I just did some simple tests out in the yard. With .22LR at 100 yards I was able to score regular hits on target. In fact I was able to get pretty good results, although with various ammo my POI would change.

    On the 200 yard target I was also able to score hits on target. It was much more complicated. Some of the bullets were destabilizing at that range. Keep in mind I was shooting a mix of some subsonic and also some supersonics and a variety of ammo just to test it out. I was just doing plain old kentucky windage and it was just trial and error. If I go out and get some real data and try to dial up a firing solution that might help. Just eyeballing it high and to the left was just kind of all over the place. I am going to have to break out my math and see if I can land them on target reliably.

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