Lore, tips and tricks for shooting suppressed.

[Joelski]

We need a central repository for information on things like tuning for long term durability, ease of maintenance, and running a setup that stays clean and accurate. I've seen discussion points in other threads, but no reference. There are plenty of guys who have set their guns up to be optimally reliable, and accurate, but shouldn't keeping the fouling to a minimum support those goals?

Please share your thoughts here, and maybe this could be a sticky to help out future silencer moons.

I don't mind meticulous cleaning; I've had that beaten into me over these years, and putting away a filthy, drippy weapon just doesn't agree with me, but come on!!! A couple rounds and my SBR looks like Pigpen took up res inside it! I'd thought that an pushrod system might decrease that even minimally, but many say no. It's so bad that any left over ammo has a powdery oxidation on it that has me thinking it could jam if I were to try to re-use it in that condition. I'm of neither the "run it dry", or the "lube it til it drips everywhere" camp, but wonder if I need to add lube as I go? I've not fired more than 2.5 mags at any one time. I lube my bcg by wiping it on with my fingers to assure a good coating. Lube is Lucas sticky red oil.

I'm hoping not just to have my question answered, but for you experienced guys to drop as much as ya know about the subject!

[Slippers]

Pistons don't make a difference. It's not the gas from the gas tube in a DI AR that is fouling your chamber. Suppressors increase the effective dwell time (the time between the bullet passing the gas port and leaving the muzzle), which means in both DI and piston guns the bolt unlocks sooner. The gas takes the path of least resistance, so as soon as the bolt unlocks, it rushes back down the barrel into the chamber and upper receiver.

Shooting a 416 with a suppressor sucks. Even the newest revision vented gas blocks (which are very rare in civilian hands) don't help that much.

Reducing fouling can be done in several ways: Adjustable gas block, adjustable bolt carrier, or a smaller gas port. You can also use reduced back pressure cans (Surefire, Dead Air), or overbore the can (use a 30 cal can if shooting 223). Increasing buffer weight and/or springs is a bandaid fix, and doesn't resolve the underlying issue of the increased dwell time and premature bolt unlocking.

Internet commandos rag on Surefire cans because they don't meter that well at the muzzle, but they have the least back pressure and this slows unlocking of the bolt, so they actually meter better at the ear since there's less ejection port noise.

For dedicated suppressed guns I use minimal lube. A thin coat on the bolt lugs, gas rings, and the bearing surfaces of the bolt carrier. After a few hundred rounds or a long day at the range I may add a drop through the ejection port on the carrier bearing surfaces. Less is more when it comes to suppressed use, unless you like having oil blown in your face and on your hands/arms, and have it leaking out of every hole in your rifle.

[Former11B]

It’s also hard to have a central repository for go to answers when so many things vary: barrel length, gas length, brand of this or that, buffer weight, gas port size, adjustable gas, ammo, caliber, expectation, etc

[Uffdaphil]

Okay, my question is how to better clean my Rev 9 baffles made of 17-4 SS? I don’t care for ultrasonic. Currently I just scrape crud off with a stiff brush. Would tumbling in SS media damage the baffles?

[alamo5000]

Okay, my question is how to better clean my Rev 9 baffles made of 17-4 SS? I don’t care for ultrasonic. Currently I just scrape crud off with a stiff brush. Would tumbling in SS media damage the baffles?

I tumble mine in a Frankfort Arsenal wet tumbler all the time. Well 'all the time' means when I clean the thing. A wet tumbler won't hurt them at all.

I shot mine on a .22 for about 500 rounds or more and then just put my can up, and after that I was traveling a lot so the crud just got to harden up on there. I had to tumble them 3 times to get em really clean. In between tumbling I used a metal pick to get some of the stuck on crud loose then tumbled again.

If you are shooting just on a 9mm it won't be nearly as bad. You can go a relatively long time in between cleanings.

You can also pre treat your baffles. There is some brake fluid (not cleaner) that you can soak them in, or I have also used some left over Seal 1 to do the same thing.

[alamo5000]

We need a central repository for information on things like tuning for long term durability, ease of maintenance, and running a setup that stays clean and accurate. I've seen discussion points in other threads, but no reference. There are plenty of guys who have set their guns up to be optimally reliable, and accurate, but shouldn't keeping the fouling to a minimum support those goals?

Please share your thoughts here, and maybe this could be a sticky to help out future silencer moons.

I don't mind meticulous cleaning; I've had that beaten into me over these years, and putting away a filthy, drippy weapon just doesn't agree with me, but come on!!! A couple rounds and my SBR looks like Pigpen took up res inside it! I'd thought that an pushrod system might decrease that even minimally, but many say no. It's so bad that any left over ammo has a powdery oxidation on it that has me thinking it could jam if I were to try to re-use it in that condition. I'm of neither the "run it dry", or the "lube it til it drips everywhere" camp, but wonder if I need to add lube as I go? I've not fired more than 2.5 mags at any one time. I lube my bcg by wiping it on with my fingers to assure a good coating. Lube is Lucas sticky red oil.

I'm hoping not just to have my question answered, but for you experienced guys to drop as much as ya know about the subject!

On my SBR I have been broken of being a clean freak. Before I would clean my gun pretty much after every outing. Now I barely clean it at all. If you over lube it will sling gunk all over the place when you shoot. I can't speak to anyone else but mine has never fouled up to the point of not running or even malfunctions. I think on an AR it's a lot more durable than most people give credit for.

[iflyskyhigh]

Okay, my question is how to better clean my Rev 9 baffles made of 17-4 SS? I don’t care for ultrasonic. Currently I just scrape crud off with a stiff brush. Would tumbling in SS media damage the baffles?

Ditto. I have a Revo 45 and an Optimus. Clean baffles and other stainless parts in my Lyman Stainless tumbler. I’m really bad about cleaning. Guns and suppressors. My Optimus was caked and hardened from shooting 22LR I could barely get it apart. Had to tumble the baffles for days to get them clean. With picking in between. I started using Ed’s red. It doesn’t remove copper, but it breaks down and loosens lead and fouling as good as anything else I’m ever tried.

I made the mistake of tumbling the bodies of my suppressor once. Don’t. Ended up having to repaint them with Duraheat. The Optimus can came out okay, but the Revo can was never quiet the same.

I spent 4 days cleaning guns and suppressor last week. Made the commitment to at least wipe stuff down after I use now. I just have have so many damn guns and so much, it’s hard to keep up. I hate cleaning.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Uffdaphil]

Thanks for the quick responses guys. I see Brownells has pre-mixed Ed’s Red on sale so will pick some up today.

[iflyskyhigh]

Thanks for the quick responses guys. I see Brownells has pre-mixed Ed’s Red on sale so will pick some up today.

You can mix it yourself. Chances are you’ve got most of the ingredients laying around. Only thing I didn’t have was the kerosene (Walmart), and the ATF (O’Reilly’s). Mixed it in a mason jar. Took 5 minutes. Smells like death. Works real good.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Joelski]

I was hoping to go the US route with cleaning the baffles. I hope the can won't have so much lead fouling as I plan to pick up a can just for .22 LR. Has anybody tried using an ultrasound cleaner with their baffles? I'm suspecting it might take a bit more elbow grease. I also suspect tumbling might not be so good for Ti baffles.

[cjd3]

I’ll update next time I clean my SiCo SparrowSS. But last time I slathered it with Froglube paste before reassembling. I recently listened to SiCo Radio, and they too recommended cleaning the SS monocore in a SS wet tumbler (not the tube, just the core and clam shells). I tried ultrasonic once, and it didn’t do much. Before I tried the ss tumbler, I used a SS brush and elbow grease and time.

[gatordev]

Pistons don't make a difference. It's not the gas from the gas tube in a DI AR that is fouling your chamber. Suppressors increase the effective dwell time (the time between the bullet passing the gas port and leaving the muzzle), which means in both DI and piston guns the bolt unlocks sooner. The gas takes the path of least resistance, so as soon as the bolt unlocks, it rushes back down the barrel into the chamber and upper receiver.

Shooting a 416 with a suppressor sucks. Even the newest revision vented gas blocks (which are very rare in civilian hands) don't help that much.

Reducing fouling can be done in several ways: Adjustable gas block, adjustable bolt carrier, or a smaller gas port. You can also use reduced back pressure cans (Surefire, Dead Air), or overbore the can (use a 30 cal can if shooting 223). Increasing buffer weight and/or springs is a bandaid fix, and doesn't resolve the underlying issue of the increased dwell time and premature bolt unlocking.

Internet commandos rag on Surefire cans because they don't meter that well at the muzzle, but they have the least back pressure and this slows unlocking of the bolt, so they actually meter better at the ear since there's less ejection port noise.

For dedicated suppressed guns I use minimal lube. A thin coat on the bolt lugs, gas rings, and the bearing surfaces of the bolt carrier. After a few hundred rounds or a long day at the range I may add a drop through the ejection port on the carrier bearing surfaces. Less is more when it comes to suppressed use, unless you like having oil blown in your face and on your hands/arms, and have it leaking out of every hole in your rifle.

<Pushes imaginary Like Button>

I have an older Adams Arms op-rod upper that is noticeably cleaner on the inside when shooting suppressed compared to a like DI upper, but that just proves your point since the AA gas block dumps gas overboard to help with over-pressure.

One additional thing I'd add is in regards to feed issues on an over-gassed (suppressed) gun. It took some time, but I eventually discovered data online that pointed to magazine spring pressure that can also cause the round to not be fully seated in the mag as the bolt comes forward. This results in the canted round hitting the chamber at an angle and locking up the gun (and pushing the bullet into the case). A stronger mag spring (a PMag M3 in this case) solved that issue for me.

Now I wish I could unload some of my NIW M2 mags. Curse this buyer's market!

[iflyskyhigh]

I’ll update next time I clean my SiCo SparrowSS. But last time I slathered it with Froglube paste before reassembling. I recently listened to SiCo Radio, and they too recommended cleaning the SS monocore in a SS wet tumbler (not the tube, just the core and clam shells). I tried ultrasonic once, and it didn’t do much. Before I tried the ss tumbler, I used a SS brush and elbow grease and time.

Did the Froglube make any difference after the fact?

BTW. I got the tip from a guy on line (I’ll try and find the article again) but if you use powdered dishwasher detergent in the SS tumbler it really help. It’s harsh, but doesn’t hurt Titanium or Stainless.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[alamo5000]

Did the Froglube make any difference after the fact?

BTW. I got the tip from a guy on line (I’ll try and find the article again) but if you use powdered dishwasher detergent in the SS tumbler it really help. It’s harsh, but doesn’t hurt Titanium or Stainless.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I used Seal 1 (similar to Froglube only less stinky) and yes it works really well. Once you treat the baffles you can just wipe them off after you are done. You have to be religious about it though. If you don't take the can apart and clean on a regular basis it will negate a lot of the effort.

[Former11B]

A tip from a suppressor manufacturer got me putting a thin coat of dielectric grease (autozone/advanced auto parts, etc) on my 9mm can baffles and my .22 core, along with pistons and springs. Build up wipes off with paper towels (wear gloves) and I recoat and done

AR internals? Quality lube like SLIP 2000 EWL. I use WAR Uppers and now have a Rainier adjustable gas block on all but one AR.

One range trip, I’ll shoot one WAR rifle 100 rounds with the gas on, and another with the gas off and note the difference. They’ve got the same barrels, buffers and BCGs so it should be a close proximity to identical