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  1. #1
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    Which Hodge Upper do I have?

    I recently bought an unused Hodge stripped upper and am curious how to tell if it is the standard or exotic aluminum-lithium alloy version. Mine looks to weigh the same as the exotic, but having paid only $100 via private party I’m 98.5% sure it is not. Still, how can you tell? The pics of the two models look the same. Is there a stamping somewhere to differentiate?

    Here is a shot with the HD, a Centurion and a Mega - each weighs 7.6 oz with port door attached.

    “ When I comes to modern politics, I think the inverse of Hanlon's Razor applies...In other words, "Never attribute to stupidity that which is adequately explained by malice." - Kerplode

  2. #2
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    Which Hodge Upper do I have?

    Unless my memory fails me, I’ve never seen their exotic version for sale apart from complete builds.

    Edit: Found WO carries them. Wow:$400+. No idea how to tell a difference. I bet Roy at WO would be able to give a quick answer. He’s responsive.

    https://www.weaponoutfitters.com/hod...-au-mod-2.html
    Last edited by fledge; 24 January 2019 at 15:35.

  3. #3
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    $400 for an upper?!?! Sure 2099 is more expensive than 7075-T6 but it’s not 4x the price...

    Quote Originally Posted by fledge View Post
    Unless my memory fails me, I’ve never seen their exotic version for sale apart from complete builds.

    Edit: Found WO carries them. Wow:$400+. No idea how to tell a difference. I bet Roy at WO would be able to give a quick answer. He’s responsive.

    https://www.weaponoutfitters.com/hod...-au-mod-2.html
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by VIPER 237 View Post
    $400 for an upper?!?! Sure 2099 is more expensive than 7075-T6 but it’s not 4x the price...
    I'm one of those that still don't get the whole fascination with Hodge.... and obviously I'm not opposed to buying expensive stuff.

  5. #5
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    It completely baffles me honestly. I’m sure it’s high quality, and 2099 is low density with high strength, but we’re talking a 6-8% weight difference, and how many 7075-T6 or T651 uppers are having fatigue fracture issues? . I work for a high end machine shop that specializes in aerospace and knowing the cost of 2099 and guesstimating the machine time I feel that hodge is raping people, but they keep lining up to buy his stuff. To each their own I guess.

    Quote Originally Posted by UWone77 View Post
    I'm one of those that still don't get the whole fascination with Hodge.... and obviously I'm not opposed to buying expensive stuff.
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  6. #6
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    Yeah, that price is what prompted my question. Probably better to not know for sure. I’d feel guilty and have to send the seller some more $$$.
    “ When I comes to modern politics, I think the inverse of Hanlon's Razor applies...In other words, "Never attribute to stupidity that which is adequately explained by malice." - Kerplode

  7. #7
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    Have you tried putting a barrel in that Hodge upper yet?
    The best way to survive a violent encounter is to be the one inflicting the most violence.

  8. #8
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    No. I have had the Hodge 12.5” barrel build done for a while now. My favorite SBR suppressed. Now I have to tear it down for the HD upper. Looking forward to how much tighter the fit will be. Heat gun on standby.
    “ When I comes to modern politics, I think the inverse of Hanlon's Razor applies...In other words, "Never attribute to stupidity that which is adequately explained by malice." - Kerplode

  9. #9
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    Highly doubt the heat gun will work. Cooked mine in the oven at 350 for 30 min. and I still had to beat it on. Friggen nightmare. Then came to find out the barrel extension and Hodge upper were out of spec. Just got through putting a new upper and barrel on the rifle. Check out this thread.

    http://www.weaponevolution.com/forum...ht=#post168094

    Look inside the upper and see if the cam pin cutout is half a circle or if it goes from a half circle to more of a crescent shape as it flows towards the back of the receiver.
    Last edited by Stone; 24 January 2019 at 20:45.
    The best way to survive a violent encounter is to be the one inflicting the most violence.

  10. #10
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    I’ll report back how it goes.
    “ When I comes to modern politics, I think the inverse of Hanlon's Razor applies...In other words, "Never attribute to stupidity that which is adequately explained by malice." - Kerplode

  11. #11
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    Hindsight is 20/20. If you cant slide the barrel in with a little grease by hand I would strongly encourage you to sand down the inside of the receiver with some 1000 grit wet sand paper to remove some of the anodizing first. Or use a squaring jig. Once the barrel gets stuck in there if your only half way in and it starts to cool down it will be a nightmare...
    Last edited by Stone; 24 January 2019 at 20:53.
    The best way to survive a violent encounter is to be the one inflicting the most violence.

  12. #12
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    Thanks Stone. I’ve dealt with a moderatly tight fit before and expect this one to be at least as tight. While keeping the heat gun going and with generous aeroshell grease, if it still proves stubborn I will carefully sand with a fat dowel to try to uniformly remove some anodizing. I don’t need any new nightmares. Those flying monkeys from Oz have been after me since about 1954.
    “ When I comes to modern politics, I think the inverse of Hanlon's Razor applies...In other words, "Never attribute to stupidity that which is adequately explained by malice." - Kerplode

  13. #13
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    I don’t get the pricing on Hodge or Knights. A HDS Mod 2 factory upper with just barrel, reciever and handguard goes for $1650ish w/o BCG. I’m into my Mod 1 for I think $534 with an SLR handguard. That’s less than for the Mod2 Ultramatch upper I’m building even with the big discount. So that is the extent of my fascination.
    “ When I comes to modern politics, I think the inverse of Hanlon's Razor applies...In other words, "Never attribute to stupidity that which is adequately explained by malice." - Kerplode

  14. #14
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    I know this is a few months old but that is a 7075 upper.

    You can tell from the deflector (standard M4 vs swept deflector for Al-Li) and the exterior of the cam pin relief (standard M4 vs rounded for Al-Li).

  15. #15
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    Good to know. Thanks Pat-Man. By the way I did get the barrel stuck halfway in using the heat gun by myself. But with my brother keeping the heat on I got enough leverage with both hands to get it out, re-lube and install with no fuss.
    “ When I comes to modern politics, I think the inverse of Hanlon's Razor applies...In other words, "Never attribute to stupidity that which is adequately explained by malice." - Kerplode

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