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  1. #1
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    To crimp, or not to crimp? Reloading 223 ammo for AR15's.

    To crimp, or not to crimp, that is the question.

    I just started loading my own 223 tonight and it is intended for use with my semi-auto AR rifles. I have 100 rounds ready to go. I have not crimped any of them.

    Is crimping my 223 really necessary?

    I've been loading 224 Valkyrie and 308 for a few months now and have sent hundreds of these rounds down range successfully without any crimping. If it works for the 224 Valkyrie and 308 in semi-auto rifles, why wouldn't I achieve the same results with my non crimped 223?

    What philosophy do you subscribe to and why?


  2. #2
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    I read into everything when I first started also, bullet setback, pressures etc..btw you should check some of your loads after clambering a few times. Just to know what your loads are doing.

    If it has a cannelure , I’m putting a Crimp on it. How much. You will have to test for your rifles.

    To me after testing I would put a small crimp on all my 55/62 gr range fodder/556 loads.

    My more precision like rds I did not usually. Although I did with some Nosler 77’s that had no cannelure.

    Of course I’m talking ARs, no way would I on a bolt gun.

  3. #3
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    I use a "light to medium" crimp using a Lee Factory Crimp Die on pretty much everything for a semi-auto. Haven't done any real accuracy testing with and without to see how much difference it makes, though.

  4. #4
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    I am a very light to light crimper.

  5. #5
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    I don’t crimp anything rifle.

    Neck tension does enough for me

  6. #6
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    X2 in the Lee factory crimp.

    Load some with no crimp, a light crimp and a heavier one..

    Rack some in and out the chamber.. You obviously want no bullet setback.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Former11B View Post
    I don’t crimp anything rifle.

    Neck tension does enough for me

    I use to play that game, but in a semi auto I want a slight crimp. As I set some brass aside a while ago, and after about the 5-7 firings the neck tension wasn’t enough.. that’s when annealing comes into play

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by mustangfreek View Post
    I use to play that game, but in a semi auto I want a slight crimp. As I set some brass aside a while ago, and after about the 5-7 firings the neck tension wasnít enough.. thatís when annealing comes into play
    Iíve been loading for my ARs for about 8 years now. Canít say itíll never be an issue but so far...no.


    With the 224 Valkyrie brass I have been using, I really wanted to test the limits of it. At about six firings, I started getting some split necks. Now at 9 firings, this Federal brass that has survived is running into the primer pockets wearing out. Iíll probablg fire it once more and cull them all afterwards.

    I DO want to anneal my 224 brass, simply to keep all of the case necks in good shape so the weak point will be the primer pockets.

    223 I havenít had an issue with, but after 3-5 firings of the LC brass I use (depends on overall condition), it gets relegated to ďblasting ammoĒ status. I guess the factory annealing keeps it going strong long enough for me to get what I want out of it, but even after many more loadings with 55gr FMJ....no crimp, no problem

  9. #9
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    Bullet type will matter, too. I loaded some Nosler 64gr bonded a while back which have an exposed lead flat nose and even with a light crimp I had a few that were the last round in the mag get pushed back into the case and jam on me when they hit the feed ramp. Not sure if it is a mag issue but need to increase my crimp for those bullets nonetheless.

  10. #10
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    Yep, different profiles will need a crimp at times.

    Just takes some screwing around to figure it out

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