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  1. #1
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    Rattle can camo detail thread

    This will be a work in progress as I get photos together. Starting to detail the more in-depth jobs I’ve done on my rifles and will get to the laundry bag mesh camo later

    For my latest job (Rem 700 chassis), i printed out samples of the camo I want to copy (woodland bdu here)

    I get a few sheets of wax paper and totally coat them in high quality painters tape and draw/trace on the shapes I want to use and cut them out with a razor:



    Since black is my background here, I lay the stencils down for what I want to be black, then spray light color down (khaki, sand etc). Let that cure. Cheap tape will draw up when the paint dries, and this can ruin clean edges



    Lay your next group of stencils and put one of your darker colors:


    I didn’t take a photo of the brown, but if you want your last colors to blend, just do alternating rows of the color. I wanted crisp lines so once the green dried, I taped over several inch sections with random cuts on the outer sides to divide it up.

    Fin!



    For black multicam, I used a similar method, just had to do much smaller stencils



    Covering the black:


    Alternating slate and the drab green as close to colors specified by Crye



    Once this dried and I removed the tape, I MISTED it with black in areas to blend it/diffuse the crisp lines like you’d see the fades/transitions in Black MC

  2. #2
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    Tips

    I wear gloves and wipe the whole rifle down with 70% ISO. I don’t soak it, but I use a cotton ball and wear gloves to prevent finger prints. Also, wipe off as much gun oil prior to this

    Also, if you use a non-“camo” paint for a specific color, you may want to do a matte clear coat to knock down any shine from a satin paint or whatever. Make sure your paint has CURED because these clear coats can make the paint look like it’s got a white dusty texture. It can wipe off with gentle brush of a rag (not paper towel) but only if the paint is cured

    Feel free to ask questions or ask for specific photos of whatever. I can either find one to answer or recreate it pretty easily

  3. #3
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    Very nicely done!
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  4. #4
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    Great work man. Your camo work is always top notch.

  5. #5
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    This looks great. I really like the black multicam.

  6. #6
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    Love them both. Long experience says if I tried that I would not be taking pictures.
    “ The aim of totalitarian education has never been to instill convictions but to destroy the capacity to form any.” ― Hannah Arendt

  7. #7
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    Here are two examples of signature reducing camo jobs more in line with a duty rig:

    Laundry bag camo is easier. Just pick the size of your desired mesh and go to town

    The closer you hold the can, the more crisp your lines will be. The further you hold the can, the more the lines will be blurred. Too close and too far is bad, IMO. Practice on an old pellet rifle or toy gun or something to get your desired effect

    Large mesh



    Small mesh

  8. #8
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    And lastly, for a straight up “in the woods” rifle, you can use what’s common for your surroundings. Since we live in pine tree hell, go grab some pine needles (grocery sack full) and use the mesh bag technique with distance.

    If you live somewhere up NW, you can use fir branches or something, or down in Florida, some palm fronds and lighter greens.

    Here’s my squirrel getter and old 16” .308 I no longer have




    Also, not my photo but Im trying to find a winter camo job that was a big inspiration

    Edit here it is from a guy in Finland:

  9. #9
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    Good stuff, thanks Bravo!

    Here's a tip: hit up Hobby Lobby and grab a roll of frisket paper. It's purpose made for masking and replicates your wax paper/tape in one product. It should give you impressively crisp lines too, since that's what it's made for. I use it for silk screen stencils.
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  10. #10
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    Frisket paper. I’ll have to check that out, thanks!

  11. #11
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    I see you took my old thread to heart.

    Quote Originally Posted by Joelski View Post
    Here's a tip: hit up Hobby Lobby and grab a roll of frisket paper. It's purpose made for masking and replicates your wax paper/tape in one product. It should give you impressively crisp lines too, since that's what it's made for. I use it for silk screen stencils.
    I have not heard of frisket paper either, will have to look into that.

  12. #12
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  13. #13
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    You just need to get that FFL going and do this on the side

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