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  1. #151
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thompson View Post
    If I remember correctly though, that crop factor only comes into play between a half frame camera and a full frame lens, right?
    No, even the Nikon DX lenses (the ones that only work on cropped sensor cameras) are labeled as full frame lenses. This is because the mm number is the focal length, not the field of veiw

  2. #152
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    Quote Originally Posted by CarbonScoring View Post
    I didn't feel like typing all that up. Glad you did

    I use a Nikon D700, which has a full frame sensor. My 50mm is 50mm.
    People often misunderstand crop sensors. A 50mm lens is a 50mm lens no matter what. It has the exact same characteristics on one body as the other. It does not offer more 'magnification' when you go to a crop sensor, you just see less of the frame. The camera just plucks out the center part of the light circle and records that.

  3. #153
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    Here is a basic chart of the camera sensor sizes...


  4. #154
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    Quote Originally Posted by alamo5000 View Post
    Why do you need a special lens for macro? I shoot macro all the time. I have a decent legacy lens that is completely manual with an aperture ring on it ($100) and a $20 reverse ring and you have instant 1:1 magnification. With a 28mm lens you get even MORE magnification. (about 3x to be exact) It all depends on how small of stuff you want to shoot.

    One of the perks of my camera system is it is 100% reverse compatible. Any lens ever made I can use... and they've never changed the lens mount. I have lenses that are at least as old as I am and I can use them so my 'macro' lenses are dual use...frontwards for normal shots and backwards for macro.

    And if you get extension tubes you can get even really really macro.

    You can use any lens for macro pretty much as long as it has an aperture ring on it. Primes are the best. 28mm and 50mm are the most common.
    Unfortunately I can't shoot with manual. My vision is way too crappy for that (every time I've tried shooting manual, the pictures are out of focus or not fully crisp). So, I'm stuck with autofocusing.

    I'm not sure what type of camera you use, but I've thought about using extension tubes. My only problem is (if I remember this correctly - been a very very very long time since I've looked into camera gear) that with the extension tube - you lose electrical connectiion with the lens, in other words I'd lose autofocus and more importantly aperture changes.

    And I'm not quite sure what an aperture ring or a reverse ring is.

  5. #155
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thompson View Post
    Unfortunately I can't shoot with manual. My vision is way too crappy for that (every time I've tried shooting manual, the pictures are out of focus or not fully crisp). So, I'm stuck with autofocusing.

    I'm not sure what type of camera you use, but I've thought about using extension tubes. My only problem is (if I remember this correctly - been a very very very long time since I've looked into camera gear) that with the extension tube - you lose electrical connectiion with the lens, in other words I'd lose autofocus and more importantly aperture changes.

    And I'm not quite sure what an aperture ring or a reverse ring is.
    Yes you will lose connectivity. And no you will not have autofocus. I have good vision and I use the live view to get my subjects in focus...but I do so by moving the camera back and forth until it's in focus. It's not as hard as you might think (until you start trying to take pictures of moving things)

    A reverse ring is a ring that has a camera mount (Canon, Nikon, Pentax, etc etc) on one end and filter threads on the other. You screw it into the filter threads and mount your lens on backwards.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/121032821609?lpid=82


    An aperture ring is one where you can control your F number f1.8, f2.8 etc etc and so on manually. You can pick up cheap lenses that are great for macro for $50. It doesn't matter the brand. just get your reverse ring and make sure the filter threads match up... my lenses are mainly 49mm so I have a 49mm filter thread to a Pentax mount...but you can get a 58mm thread to a Canon mount or Nikon or whatever you want... any combo is out there.

    I use all Pentax gear.


  6. #156
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    Keep in mind, macro has limitations too. Once you start getting that close to objects you have very little depth of field. The amount of the object that is in focus gets very small.

    Quote Originally Posted by alamo5000 View Post
    Why do you need a special lens for macro?
    One reason for a true macro lens is the aperture. Mine will stop down to f32, giving me a bit more DoF than if I tried using a reverse ring on my 50mm which only goes down to f16.

    BTW alamo, nice shots, even if that spider is making my skin crawl.

  7. #157
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    Quote Originally Posted by CarbonScoring View Post
    Keep in mind, macro has limitations too. Once you start getting that close to objects you have very little depth of field. The amount of the object that is in focus gets very small.



    One reason for a true macro lens is the aperture. Mine will stop down to f32, giving me a bit more DoF than if I tried using a reverse ring on my 50mm which only goes down to f16.

    BTW alamo, nice shots, even if that spider is making my skin crawl.
    There are downsides to everything and some upsides... with a 28mm reversed and some extension tubes I can get WAAAAY more magnification than most other lenses on the market. The working distance to subject is small... you have to get right on top of your subject.

    With a 'proper' 100mm macro lens you can stand back a little more but you might not have as much magnification with most lenses. I think Canon makes one that goes up to 5x or something. But other than that...

    I have found that stopping down too much actually harms the image. The people who really do the extreme macro kind of cheat. They image stack using software. My shots were all shot as is :)

    With my lenses I can stop down to f22...

    The real issue with macro is again... lighting. Figuring out how to do lighting is the trick. Everything else is not that complicated.

    And thank you :) I live in the country so there isn't much to take pictures of.... so I resort to bugs. LOL

  8. #158
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    Quote Originally Posted by alamo5000 View Post
    I have found that stopping down too much actually harms the image. The people who really do the extreme macro kind of cheat. They image stack using software. My shots were all shot as is :)

    With my lenses I can stop down to f22...

    The real issue with macro is again... lighting. Figuring out how to do lighting is the trick. Everything else is not that complicated.
    Yep, every lens has it's sweet spot.

    I have done some focus stacking, but I usually find that I don't have the patience.

    The good thing for me is that I do almost everything with artificial lighting. I can't really go outside anywhere around me to photograph firearms too often.

  9. #159
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    Quote Originally Posted by CarbonScoring View Post
    Think of it like this.... (and I realize I may just make this more confusing)
    Quite the opposite haha - makes more sense now.

    Quote Originally Posted by alamo5000 View Post
    Yes you will lose connectivity. And no you will not have autofocus. I have good vision and I use the live view to get my subjects in focus...but I do so by moving the camera back and forth until it's in focus. It's not as hard as you might think (until you start trying to take pictures of moving things)

    A reverse ring is a ring that has a camera mount (Canon, Nikon, Pentax, etc etc) on one end and filter threads on the other. You screw it into the filter threads and mount your lens on backwards.
    Oh ok got it. Did some quick digging - that's a pretty neat concept, for cheap. The only thing that freaks me out (more than trying to manually focus) is leaving the pin connection ends exposed. Did you ever have problems with dust/debris getting in your lens?

    Quote Originally Posted by alamo5000 View Post
    The real issue with macro is again... lighting. Figuring out how to do lighting is the trick. Everything else is not that complicated.
    I think that's a problem with photography in general haha. It either works for you, or against you.

  10. #160
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thompson View Post
    The only thing that freaks me out (more than trying to manually focus) is leaving the pin connection ends exposed. Did you ever have problems with dust/debris getting in your lens?
    Get yourself a Giottos Rocket Blaster.

  11. #161
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    If I shot Canon I would get one of these:

    http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consum...5x_macro_photo

    It offers 5X magnification...but I can do the same magnification with a reversed 28mm lens and some extension tubes.

  12. #162
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thompson View Post
    Quite the opposite haha - makes more sense now.


    Oh ok got it. Did some quick digging - that's a pretty neat concept, for cheap. The only thing that freaks me out (more than trying to manually focus) is leaving the pin connection ends exposed. Did you ever have problems with dust/debris getting in your lens?


    I think that's a problem with photography in general haha. It either works for you, or against you.
    This is why you buy a cheap manual lens from ebay. If you really get outside in the dirt and grit and grime then so what. You can find a cheap 28mm manual lens for $50 and if it gets dusty... clean it off.

    By nature if you are outside taking pictures of bugs and stuff your gear will get dirty. Shooting other stuff inside or whatever... not so much.

    But I've been pretty dusty and still no problems for me. Everything's been fine.

  13. #163
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thompson View Post
    ... so I'm curious, just hear what all lenses you guys use to shoot with - I guess for what I'll call firearm portrait photography (ie: the pictures that UW posts on Facebook). Do you guys shoot with anything less than a 35mm (I feel like any smaller and it will distort the picture due to fringing). Is 50mm a common focal length to shoot with (I know it's commonly used for people portrait photography).

    Currently I have a 35mm f/1.8 and a 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6
    get a 50mm 1.8 or better i have one for my canon and it rocks

  14. #164
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    Quote Originally Posted by CarbonScoring View Post
    I can't really go outside anywhere around me to photograph firearms too often.
    What? Why?

    I don't understand why.

  15. #165
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thompson View Post
    Oh ok got it. Did some quick digging - that's a pretty neat concept, for cheap. The only thing that freaks me out (more than trying to manually focus) is leaving the pin connection ends exposed. Did you ever have problems with dust/debris getting in your lens?
    .
    Watch that youtube video I put up a bit ago and go to that guys website. He's a master at the art of macro.

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