300 BLK Diet

[alamo5000]

“Up to 400 degrees” sounds too low for a suppressor. Maybe that Permatex was baked hard.

To clarify, this is specifically and only talking about my cans that come apart. Those being a 9mm and rimfire only.

I don't know that I've ever fired a semi auto handgun enough for the end cap to reach 400 degrees F. Same thing for rimfire. With an MP5? Who knows what the temperature will be.

Of course I've baked the finish off of a 5.56 can before, but not so much with an actual semi auto hand gun.

I did notice that I could do a much better job on the application of the stuff should I try it again. By that I mean the last time I put it on the lower edge of the threads on the end cap itself. What it did was have almost a whole inch of the threads with sealant on them.

On the other hand if I just put some on the top few threads then seat it down the rest of the way it will serve it's purpose and will probably be a lot easier to get off.

Literally the only reason I'm doing anything at all is to prevent things from loosening under fire.

[Joelski]

On a side note, I tried 'thread sealant' for a couple of my suppressors. Specifically on the Revolution 9--the end cap is the critical part that puts tension on the baffle stack so I wanted to make sure that it didn't work loose or anything.

The stuff works, but man, it was a PITA to get it apart once its set. Basically I had to use solvents to get it to come apart. Basically it was like it was really carbon locked on there, except it was the thread sealant. Getting that end cap off was a multiple day ordeal of soaking and so forth. That being said I didn't know what to use to undo it so I tried a few options.

Another 'issue' is the end cap doesn't have anything you can put a wrench on so I was a bit limited there.

This is the stuff I used:

https://www.permatex.com/products/th...-sealant-6-ml/

Does the revolution not use a ratcheting wire to keep the cap from backing out? Seems a brilliant idea, but I don't take mine apart very often. I don't shoot rimfire ammo through my can so it doesn't get dirty enough in there for me to fk with! I bought spare wires and a .22 cal end cap when I bought my Alpha, but I haven't used any of them. It's good enough with 5.56, and I'm terrified I'd put the small cap on and forget to switch it back for my .300 BLK.

[alamo5000]

Does the revolution not use a ratcheting wire to keep the cap from backing out? Seems a brilliant idea, but I don't take mine apart very often. I don't shoot rimfire ammo through my can so it doesn't get dirty enough in there for me to fk with! I bought spare wires and a .22 cal end cap when I bought my Alpha, but I haven't used any of them. It's good enough with 5.56, and I'm terrified I'd put the small cap on and forget to switch it back for my .300 BLK.

Rev 9 just screws together with no ratchet system at all. IIRC Griffin made those ratchet end caps so those other cans could be used on a much wider array of hosts, ie full power rifles, but still have the take apart function.

I have dedicated caliber cans for everything except .45 which I shoot so little of it doesn't matter. 9mm is also the only thing that I have just one of. All others have at least two or more options (at least).

While I have in the past shot .22LR through my 9mm can I did it just as a test. It definitely works quite good. Like with anything else shooting 22 LR it will need a good cleaning in not that long should you ever want to try it.

That all being said swapping out a smaller diameter end cap, at least with 22LR it will make only a small amount of difference in sound suppression. You can notice it yes, but it will not be crazy more quiet or something. I have a 22 end cap as well and yes I did test it just because I'm curious.

[Former11B]

I’ve always used Teflon tape on direct threads, haven’t used any anti seize compound on taper mount threads.

I’ve only got one mount that locks up kinda snug and requires some effort to remove regardless of being fired or not. I think there’s a tiny tiny imperfection likely on the mount’s taper. Unfortunately it’s pinned in place so not an easy fix but the silver lining is that it’s not “bad”, just annoying sometimes. All my other mounts work just fine

[Uffdaphil]

I also have one problem child. It’s the Explorr blast shield. Even tightening with less than the normal force it’s bear to pop loose by hand. The same “stiction” on half a dozen taper mounts. No biggie, just make sure I have a wrench at the range.

I do like the porky Explorr over the original open end blast shield, but both are mainly just Gucci thread savers.



P.S. Yikes! I just noticed I put an Explorr 5.56 can on the BLK upper for the photo.

[alamo5000]

I also have one problem child. It’s the Explorr blast shield. Even tightening with less than the normal force it’s bear to pop loose by hand. The same “stiction” on half a dozen taper mounts. No biggie, just make sure I have a wrench at the range.

I do like the porky Explorr over the original open end blast shield, but both are mainly just Gucci thread savers.



P.S. Yikes! I just noticed I put an Explorr 5.56 can on the BLK upper for the photo.

Explorr blast shield?

One thing you can do to taper mounts is to treat them with frog lube or something like that. In fact do the thread end of the suppressor as well.

That being said I've never had a problem getting anything stuck on a taper mount.

[Uffdaphil]

Explorr blast shield from Griffin

[BoilerUp]

I didn't know that existed. I've got the old school minimalist that I throw my 8.5" BLK when I remove the suppressor since the MD is slightly tucked inside the handguard, but this looks better.

[alamo5000]

I didn't know that existed. I've got the old school minimalist that I throw my 8.5" BLK when I remove the suppressor since the MD is slightly tucked inside the handguard, but this looks better.

I had an older version of the blast shield but I never used it so I gave it away. I don't even remember to who. That said, I learned the hard way how those can be valuable. Someone came over to shoot one day and they wanted to hear how loud my SBRs sounded unsuppressed so they could make a comparison. Naturally, not even thinking about it, I obliged. It was LOUD. Also it was really dry at that time so I was kicking up dust and some fine sand with the muzzle blast. That stuff got in my eyes even though I had eyepro on. The concussion was crazy. I couldn't even imagine shooting those things unsuppressed indoors.

[Joelski]

I feel like my 5.56 SBR is every bit the ear-splitting, head cracker my 18" 308 AR is. I tested it in a shoot house and came right back out and got my can for it. I like Griffin Flash-Comps and run them on every rifle I have, but the newer ones have more in common with a brake than a comp, IMO.

[Stone]

Breaking the sound barrier 2 feet away from your brain pan has a way of reminding you that you forgot to put your ear pro on... Ive rattled my teeth a few times and its painful on the ears and hangs with you for a while afterwards...

[Joelski]

And even with ear pro, a good blast in a confined space will rattle and twist your axons and dendrites. Hell, that kind of concussive force can take you anywhere on the CHI damage chart from a stinger up to DAI (very bad).

Directable concussion is one of the big DARPA technologies in warfighting. Look at Havana Syndrome; being able to amplify and place that kind of force inside your grape will liquify brain matter. Kinda takes all the fun out of shooting at assholes.