Whisper pickles: What's new and exciting?

[Joelski]

Right now, I have 3, but with approvals coming through in as little as 4 hours, I'm tempted to add some more. I added an optimus Micro and an Explorr a while back to my original Griffin Alpha (None of that Paladin nonsense! Why did they change the name, anyway?) Other than toying with sending the Alpha in for a baffle upgrade, I've been looking at the M4SD-K and Optimus 9, or possibly a .45 cal can as I'm getting a small horde of 1911's (All in God's Caliber, Dammit!) and now I can fit my own barrels, so a threaded one or two might show up on a combat commander or a M1911A1 MEUSOC build some day.



Anyway, what brands are you fellas looking at these days? Griffin has been a popular brand around here and I made my choice based on feedback from guys like 11B, and Alamo.PS: Why isn't this thing making paragraphs?

[Jerry R]

I pretty much stuck with AAC for most of my quieter work. I did get a Thompson Machine Poseidon for the .45's. Short and reasonably effective, but designed to work wet with wipes. So, I use the TiRant mostly on the 1911's.

[Joelski]

I pretty much stuck with AAC for most of my quieter work. I did get a Thompson Machine Poseidon for the .45's. Short and reasonably effective, but designed to work wet with wipes. So, I use the TiRant mostly on the 1911's.

That whole wet/wipes thing is new to me. I've seen you reference it before; does it make the report quieter? A consumable on a suppressor just seems odd, but it must work, and work well for it to stick around.

[alamo5000]

Right now, I have 3, but with approvals coming through in as little as 4 hours, I'm tempted to add some more. I added an optimus Micro and an Explorr a while back to my original Griffin Alpha (None of that Paladin nonsense! Why did they change the name, anyway?) Other than toying with sending the Alpha in for a baffle upgrade, I've been looking at the M4SD-K and Optimus 9, or possibly a .45 cal can as I'm getting a small horde of 1911's (All in God's Caliber, Dammit!) and now I can fit my own barrels, so a threaded one or two might show up on a combat commander or a M1911A1 MEUSOC build some day.



Anyway, what brands are you fellas looking at these days? Griffin has been a popular brand around here and I made my choice based on feedback from guys like 11B, and Alamo.PS: Why isn't this thing making paragraphs?

I think the Alpha was a short lived name (I think) because a competitor released a product with a very similar (or same) name around the same time. My understanding is they voluntarily opted to let the other guys have that name. It would be monumentally stupid to go all the way into a legal fight over something so dumb... I can't be 100% on my memory but I think that was the nutshell version.

I have an Explorr and I really like it. I am tempted to get another. If I were building another SBR those would definitely be on the short list if for no other reason the weight is very light and that in turn would make building a 'balanced' rifle that much easier. I do try to not go into the poor house via uncontrolled spending so that's on the back burner (for now).

As for the Optimus Micro, I really like mine. I have never used it on 5.56 (yet) but it's good to have that option. Just the fact that it's extremely rugged is great. I have a Rugged Occulus as well and I like that one too.

The only suppressor caliber I don't have yet is a .45. I don't shoot enough .45 to warrant it, but in the event that I come into some extra $$$ I will probably get a couple of those too.

As far as the 'credit'--it all goes to Former11B. Way back when I first started down this road he took me aside (well same thing except online) and cut through the fluff. Being a new guy and trying to weed through all the 'data' out there regarding suppressors can be very overwhelming. At the end of the day I took his advice (as I have several others here for various other things) and took a leap of faith so to speak. It goes without saying that I am happy with my choices thus far and that Griffin has more than taken care of me over the years.

[Jerry R]

That whole wet/wipes thing is new to me. I've seen you reference it before; does it make the report quieter? A consumable on a suppressor just seems odd, but it must work, and work well for it to stick around.

The wet/wipe cans can be a little quieter, but only for the first five, or so, shots. After the "wet" is gone, they are pretty much the same as any other can with similar baffles. Recommended wet solution is cable pulling gel. I bought it at Home Depot. It's okay, but would not do another one.

[BoilerUp]

I have 3 GA cans and my only complaint is how difficult the Revolution 9 can be to disassemble - there is no good tooling lock up to break the sections apart (it can be configured long or short). I've had guys come up to me a carbine class and ask about my Recce 5 because they like the way it sounded, which I thought was interesting. I love the taper lock mounting system, too.

My next can, though, will likely be a Sig SLX-556C-QD. I need a low backpressure can for my SPEAR LT as that thing is gassy w/ a SF SOCOM

[Former11B]

I recently got a Griffin Armament Explorr .30

Approved in three days via Capitol Armory /Silencer to your Door program.

Not as quiet on my bolt gun as my Nomad LT (which is a massive can with nearly twice the volume) however the Explorr did not ring my ears in the least on that or my 11.8” PWS

It’s insanely light, 11oz even, made from 17-4. Same size as my AAC Mini-4 yet 4.5oz lighter and far more quiet. I wouldn’t quite call the Explorr a K can but it’s not full size either

It sounded just as good if not a hair better than my Mod 3 Recce 5 that has the old non eco flow baffles still

[alamo5000]

I have 3 GA cans and my only complaint is how difficult the Revolution 9 can be to disassemble - there is no good tooling lock up to break the sections apart (it can be configured long or short).

I sent mine in for a baffle upgrade and also opted to have them 'fix' that same thing while they had it. Specifically the older booster housing was nearly impossible to get apart, especially after it was carbon locked. The newer booster housing has notches in it that match up with a castle nut wrench.

It's not perfect, but it's way better than it was before by a mile. I've never had big problems getting the tube off of the housing. Getting the booster housing apart was always my struggle.

[Joelski]

This might be one that you reloaders can answer; KAC has a sweet little stinger-looking suppressor, the 5.56 MCQ QDC. Anyway, how can something that short have a true purpose? Is it so niche that for clearing rooms, its better than nothing? I've heard people say it's primarily signal reduction, but doesn't overall barrel length before the MD have more to do with flash reduction than baffle design? It certainly doesn't fit the bill for a civvy shooter looking for the best blend of signal, sound and pressure reduction... Thoughts?



From the OP website:

KAC’s Pressure Reduction Technology (PRT) Signature Reduction

These suppressors are specifically engineered to release the majority of the pressure contained in the device and bore, which significantly reduces the negative effects of suppressor integration, It also reduces felt recoil compared to a traditional suppressor with the same level of sound reduction

Muzzle flash, and specifically first-round flash, has also been directly addressed and minimized with the PRT design. The Quick Disconnect (QDC) mounting method ensures reduced carbon-lock, as well as minimal but repeatable point of impact shift when transitioning between suppressed and unsuppressed configurations

The Knight's Armament 5.56 QDC/MCQ-PRT connects to all 5.56 QDC Muzzle Devices
Addition to Bare Muzzle: 3.85″ (9.78cm)
Addition to QDC 3-prong FH: 2.33″ (5.92cm)
Overall Length: 4.43″ (11.25cm)
Weight: 13.9oz (395g)
Sound Reduction: 12dB

No, I'm not considering buying one of these; 1600 bones seems excessive for a 12 dB reduction. I'm simply trying to understand how this isn't a fleece. It doesn't seem much more efficient than going bare muzzle.

[Former11B]

This might be one that you reloaders can answer; KAC has a sweet little stinger-looking suppressor, the 5.56 MCQ QDC. Anyway, how can something that short have a true purpose? Is it so niche that for clearing rooms, its better than nothing? I've heard people say it's primarily signal reduction, but doesn't overall barrel length before the MD have more to do with flash reduction than baffle design? It certainly doesn't fit the bill for a civvy shooter looking for the best blend of signal, sound and pressure reduction... Thoughts?



From the OP website:



No, I'm not considering buying one of these; 1600 bones seems excessive for a 12 dB reduction. I'm simply trying to understand how this isn't a fleece. It doesn't seem much more efficient than going bare muzzle.

Kind of reminds me of the Ops Inc M4-S can. 4.5” overall, only added maybe an inch to total length with the Ops brake.

One of those situations where you need a can but weight and length are of huge concern and it helps mitigate SBR flash indoors


I was in a vehicle shooting a stage with a guy who had the next step up in size of that KAC qdc can, 3D printed. It actually sounded amazing. Very deep thump on a 5.56, pleasing tone

[alamo5000]

I was just reading this and wondering... I wonder if anyone has (or would) make an Over the Barrel suppressor for a 5.56 SBR?

[Joelski]

Make your first million!

I have toyed with getting that KAC can, but 1,800 bones is steep! But hey! Its KAC! Maybe if the right economy comes back next year, I'll have the disposable income again, but I want a semi custom 1911 and those don't come with very good discounts.

Next thing that has me wondering: I've heard that using a US cleaner can ruin the coating on your expensive can, but so does using it, so that doesn't really bother me. I have wondered if anybody has investigated getting their tube DLC'd to increase wear tolerance on such a thing as a Suppressor tube. I know SS can take nitride, but it's not the same as carbon steel in terms of finish, so I think DLC might be a solution to keeping your expensive investment looking nice through hard use and life's knocks.

[alamo5000]

Make your first million!

I have toyed with getting that KAC can, but 1,800 bones is steep! But hey! Its KAC! Maybe if the right economy comes back next year, I'll have the disposable income again, but I want a semi custom 1911 and those don't come with very good discounts.

Next thing that has me wondering: I've heard that using a US cleaner can ruin the coating on your expensive can, but so does using it, so that doesn't really bother me. I have wondered if anybody has investigated getting their tube DLC'd to increase wear tolerance on such a thing as a Suppressor tube. I know SS can take nitride, but it's not the same as carbon steel in terms of finish, so I think DLC might be a solution to keeping your expensive investment looking nice through hard use and life's knocks.

It would be great for .22LR cans. From what I have read on the internet it looks like (at least one) of the weaknesses is it's heat resistance, at least in that application.

If I recall I think DLC starts to get compromised around the 500-600 degree (F) range. That's just about two mags using 5.56 and you are over that threshold. Also another thing that I would question is the thermal expansion that happens. I am not sure how that type of coating would hold up to the expansion and contraction of the metal in a suppressor.

[gatordev]

I need to look into it a bit more, but I've heard using a deconcentrated mix of CLR and soaking a can can help break up the junk in the baffles without having to use an ultra sonic cleaner and risk messing up the finish.

[alamo5000]

I need to look into it a bit more, but I've heard using a deconcentrated mix of CLR and soaking a can can help break up the junk in the baffles without having to use an ultra sonic cleaner and risk messing up the finish.

There is a giant thread on Snipers Hide about cleaning suppressors with lots of pictures as well. I have also cleaned a couple of mine. I definitely would not use CLR as there is a hung jury on the subject. I would guess it depends on what the materials the specific can is made of.

On the other hand, I bought a big bottle of C4 Carbon Cleaner from BoreTech. I soaked mine for a couple of days and it came out very clean. If you can plug the end you can save a little bit of the solution but it's not mandatory.