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  1. #1
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    *Ok To Dry Fire?*

    I just built a new lower, everything installed fine, as I have built others, but the FCG doesnt feel as smooth as my other lowers, is it ok for me to slap an upper and dry fire it to make sure?

    thanx!

  2. #2
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    Dry-firing an assembled AR is fine. You will not damage a thing. Dry-firing is actually a part of the weapons function check procedure.

    Where you need to be careful, is in preventing the release of the hammer on a lower receiver that is separated from the upper receiver.

    In these situations, releasing the hammer can cause damage to the bolt catch or the webbing of the lower receiver where the bolt catch sits.

  3. #3
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    Quib is exactly right. My favorite call from a customer is, I bought this LPK from you and the bolt catch broke off in my lower. Can I return this defective bolt catch?

  4. #4
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    Thanx!

  5. #5
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    Dry fire is one of the most under rated ways to improve your overall shooting and weapons manipulation.

  6. #6
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    IF I recall correctly. the NRA has an article on dry-firing 22LR rifles a while back and called each major manufacturer (Ruger, Remington, etc.) to get their recommendation. Ruger said, "go ahead all day long," and I think Remington said, "knock yourself out". They concluded that it would take several thousands of dry-firings to seriously damage anything in the rifle.
    - Federalist22

  7. #7
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    Absolutely acceptable to dry fire. I am crazy OCD about safety however. Lock the action open. Ensure that there is no magazine in place. Ensure the chamber is empty. Check both again. Ensure there is no ammunition in the area. Check again.

    During the dry fire practice, all safety fundamentals are still followed.
    1. Treat every firearm as if it is loaded.
    2. Do not point any firearm at anything you are not willing to destroy.
    3. Keep your finger off the trigger until your sights are on target and you have made the decision to shoot.
    4. Be sure of your target and the backstop beyond.


    Regarding the trigger pull. Dry fire and live fire will help to wear the hammer and trigger engagement surfaces in. Some stock mil type triggers are just better than others and often it's just the luck of the draw on what you get. On a recent build of mine, the trigger was horrible. It wasn't necessarily overly heavy, but it was rough and uneven as could be. I kind of hesitate when I explain what I did to fix it, because someone will take it to the extreme and screw up their FCG. Upon close inspection of the trigger, I found that the machining process left a noticeable burr. I lightly, very lightly, stoned the burr down and lightly polished the surfaces with a Q-tip and metal polish. Overall, metal removal on the FCG is a bad idea. I have had to replace several FCG because someone tried to do a trigger job and ended up with an unsafe malfunctioning weapon.

  8. #8
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    Eric's notes are extremely important.

    If you want something to fire against, get some Magpul dummy rounds (5-pk = $4.95 + shipping - http://www.magpul.com/catalog/index....roducts_id=259) and be damn sure that's all you load, but it give you something to knock the firing pin against if you think you need it.
    - Federalist22

  9. #9
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    On the topic of DIY trigger jobs to standard triggers, I have seen noticeable improvement from doing the following:

    - Trigger pin and hammer pin: Insert pin into an electric drill chuck. Using a rag damp with Brasso, slowly spin the pin lightly polishing it.

    - Hammer and trigger pin holes: Cut a q-tip in half. Dip in Brasso and insert into an electric drill chuck. Insert the q-tip into the hammer/trigger pin hole and slowly turn the drill to polish.

    During reassembly, apply a light coating of grease to the pins. My personal favorite is Tetra Grease.

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