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  1. #16
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    AR15 TORQUE VALUES




    AR15 Torque Value Chart*



    -Carrier Key Screws: 50-58 in/lbs

    -Barrel Nut: 30-80 ft/lbs

    -Receiver Extension (Rifle): 35-39 ft/lbs

    -Receiver Extension Castle Nut (Carbine): 38-42 ft/lbs




    * Torques are from the current Army TM 9-1005-319-23&P W/C #8.

  2. #17
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    BROKEN TRIGGER GUARD EAR






  3. #18
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    A2 PISTOL GRIP SCREW SPEC'S




    The threads are 1/4-28.

    The basic specs of the original GI A2 grip screw are......

    SCREW, MACHINE, RIFLE GRIP
    NSN: 5305-01-268-1191
    Part Number: AN501D416-18

    THREAD SERIES DESIGNATOR: UNF
    NOMINAL THREAD DIAMETER: 0.250 INCHES
    THREAD QUANTITY PER INCH: 28
    THREAD LENGTH: 0.992 INCHES MIN AND 1.125 INCHES MAX
    FASTENER LENGTH: 1.063 INCHES MIN AND 1.125 INCHES MAX
    INTERNAL DRIVE STYLE: B10 SLOT
    HEAD STYLE: A33 FILLISTER





  4. #19
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    CUT CARRY HANDLE BUS




    With little effort and basic mechanical skill, the detachable carry handle/rear sight assembly can quickly be turned into a robust fixed rear sight assembly similar in design to the LMT Rear Sight.






    Prep the carry handle for work as follows:


    • Remove thumb nuts. Some carry handles come with swaged cross-bars to prevent the thumb nuts from being completely backed off and lost. If enough force is used to turn the nut, the swage can be overcome and the nuts completely removed.


    • Remove locking bar. Set aside. The locking bar will later be trimmed to fit and reinstalled.


    • Use a hammer to tap out the cross-bars. Removing the cross-bars is not a necessary step, but I feel their removal helps in securing the carry handle while it is in work.


    • Using a hacksaw, bandsaw or Dremel Tool with cut-off wheel to cut the carry handle, carefully draw out the cut lines as illustrated below. Leave enough extra material to allow for shaping and contouring. The CCH BUS you see in these photos, was secured in a bench vice and cut with a hacksaw.










    For shaping and contouring, a sanding disc in an electric drill was used to form the rounded ears of the BUS, giving it a similar profile to that of the LMT Rear Sight. A combination of jewelers files and fine sandpaper was then used to finish up the final shaping, smoothing and contouring of the cut edges.

    The locking bar was then placed temporarily on the BUS, and a position was determined for the necessary cut-line. The locking bar was then secured in a bench vice and cut with a hacksaw. Final shaping and contouring was accomplished with jewelers files. The cut exposed steel edge was then degreased with non-chlorinated brake cleaner and touched up with G96 Liquid Cold Blue applied with a q-tip.

    Link: http://http://www.g96.com/Gun_Blue.html

    The exposed bare aluminum of the CCH BUS was then degreased with non-chlorinated brake cleaner and touched up with Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black. This process of degreasing and applying Aluminum Black was repeated until a uniform finish was achieved, almost matching perfectly with the remainder of the CCH BUSís black anodized finish.


    Link: http://http://sport.birchwoodcasey.com/Finishing/FinishingDetails.aspx?ProductID=0790cc91-b2e8-488d-a6fa-8820790beefb

    One of the many spray-on gun finishes available may be substituted in lieu of the Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black.

    Reassemble the CCH BUS by tapping in the cross-bar, seating it fully into the serrations cut from the initial factory assembly. Reinstall the cut and refinished section of locking bar and spin-on the thumb nut.


    __________________________________________________ _______________________________________________



    Thumb-Nut Mod:

    To eliminate the bulkiness and trim some weight from the CCH BUS, I cut down the cross-bar and installed an AN960 aircraft washer with an MS21042 self-locking nut. If this modification is desired, AN/MS Spec aircraft hardware might be available online through an aircraft parts vendor, or similar hardware can be purchased at the local hardware store.











  5. #20
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    BUFFER RATTLE




  6. #21
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    MIL VERSES CIV CLEANING ACCESSORIES












  7. #22
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    GAS TUBE REMOVAL



    Gas tube removal on a weapon that has been in service can sometimes present a challenge. Carbon build-up forming between the gas tube and interior of the front sight base can keep the gas tube from being removed by hand without the assistance of tools.

    One tip I have used with success over the years, is the use of a set of modified Vice Grips to aid in gas tube removal.












  8. #23
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    OPTIC CO-WITNESS







    For an explanation of AR15 optic co-witness, please see Pauloís tutorial at the following link:


    http://www.weaponevolution.com/forum...ING-CO-WITNESS

  9. #24
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    CONVERTING THE GI CLEANING ROD HANDLE FOR CHAMBER CLEANING





    Keeping the chamber free of carbon build-up is an important part of preventative maintenance (PM). Inserting and spinning the chamber brush can not be accomplished using a standard cleaning rod with spinning handle, such as those designed for cleaning a rifle or pistol bore.

    The chamber brush due to design, requires a solid one-piece rod without a spinning handle, to overcome the friction encountered while inserting and turning the chamber brush.





    Common problems Iíve seen when attempting to clean the chamber are:

    - Using a chamber brush designed for 7.62mm rather than 5.56mm.

    If the chamber brush is excessively difficult to insert and spin, do not force it. Remove the brush and verify its dimensions against the drawing below (Fig. 1). New AR owners have accidentally purchased larger 7.62mm chamber brushes designed for the AR10, which are similar in design to the smaller caliber 5.56mm AR15 chamber brush.



    Fig. 1



    - Attempting to use a cleaning rod with spinning handle.

    The chamber brush by design is a tight fit in the chamber. Attached to a rod with spinning handle, there is simply too much brush friction to over come. Purchase a short one piece cleaning rod without a spinning handle, or utilize the GI cleaning kit handle which is designed to convert into a t-handle for cleaning of the chamber (Fig. 2)



    Fig. 2




    - Use adequate lubrication when cleaning the chamber.

    A dry chamber brush or a chamber brush with minimal CLP applied, can be difficult to insert and spin. Use adequate lubrication applied directly to the brush bristles or squirted into the chamber itself. This will ease spinning of the brush, and of course help break-up carbon deposits.

    - Use a spinning corkscrew motion when inserting the chamber brush.

    Do not directly insert the chamber brush, then attempt to spin it. Instead, use a spinning corkscrew motion, simultaneously spinning and inserting the brush in one clockwise motion, as if driving in a screw. Once in the chamber, continue spinning for a few revolutions, then back the brush out of the chamber while continuing to spin it in a clockwise direction. Spinning the chamber brush in a back and forth motion or counter clockwise direction will only loosen the brush.




    To convert the GI Cleaning Kit handle into a t-handle for chamber cleaning:

    - Rotate the top of the handle around the cleaning rod ball joint towards the cleaning rod.
    - Snap the swaged end of the handle down over the flattened portion of the cleaning rod.
    - Slide a segment of cleaning rod down through the hole in the opposite end of the handle, forming a t-handle.





  10. #25
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  11. #26
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    APPLYING SLIPPAGE MARKS













    AIMPOINT INSTALLATION: ADM AD-68H MOUNT: http://www.weaponevolution.com/forum...M-AD-68H-MOUNT

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