The hard part is done. Spraying is a matter of using the airbrush, and getting familiar with the various spray shapes. I like to use a more focused spray pattern, while others like to use a wide spray. It is hard to explain exactly how to figure what is best for you. I set it slightly narrower than a can of spray paint, and that coats well for me.
One of the recommended way to practise spraying, is to fill the airbrush with water, and to spray cardboard. This is a simple method of seeing how your spray pattern is going to look. The cardboard gets wet, turns dark, and you get an idea of how things are spraying.
I spray each piece as an individual part. Then, when everything is complete and dry, I reassemble and spray it again. This gives the same finish, color and texture to the entire piece. Make sure when you do this that you have preheated the entire weapon, which can take awhile if you are using a hairdryer like me.
Norrells figures on three coats for maximum protection and wear resistance. For high wear areas, I try to go with an extra coat or two, which is probably over kill, but doesn't hurt.
Spray from as many different angles as you can. Use light passes, and don't try to get "heavy" coats on. With nooks and crannies in areas like below, you are going to need to figure out your angles while you spray.
*** Make sure you have good ventilation while spraying, go outside if possible ***
Last edited by Stickman; 2 December 2007 at 11:59.
Areas like the gas tube that you don't want to coat can be simply taped. I use blue painters tape as it doesn't leave any residue.
Small areas like the Carry Handle/ A2 Sight Assembly do not need to be pulled all the way apart if you are looking for a solid color. Rotating the elevation dial several times while spraying can ensure a even coating for the dial, and the Norrells finish is fine for most plastics.
Last edited by Stickman; 2 December 2007 at 11:53.
The sight assembly seem to be a sticking point for a few people. I've done a few by pulling them all the way apart, I've done a few by leaving them together, and I have done a few by pulling the A2 Sight Assembly off the carry handle. I can't tell them apart anymore, with the exception of the ones I have done in different colors.
The end result is that if you preheat, and move the adjustment knob up and down, it is going to turn out fine. If you like the idea of having your rear portion of your sight a different color, it isn't that hard to pull the sight off the carry handle. Just remember where all the little springs and ball bearings go, because it doesn't work right without them. The manuals online can help you if you get forgetful.
This is a rear view of the A2 sight on the carry handle after it has been coated.
Last edited by Stickman; 2 December 2007 at 11:54.
The barrel is a pretty simple piece of the weapon to do. I spray up and down when I do a barrel, mainly because the spray pattern is football shaped. It gives me a heavier coverage, and I waste less doing it this way. Under the handguards gets three coats, but the sight assembly forward portion of the barrel get a little extra. I figure this portion of the weapon sees a little more wear than much of the rest of the AR.
I coat the flash suppressor separate from the barrel, but there is no reason why you couldn't do it all assembled. If I were doing a completed weapon, I would do it together.
There is no reason to get super excited about protecting your barrel when doing this work. A simple Q-tip or other similar object down the barrel will be more than enough to protect it. If you are leaving a FS on the end of your barrel, it should be a moot point.
If you are coating a bare barrel, I would simply spray at an angle. You don't want to be spraying directly into your barrel extension, or chamber. I have found spraying from the side is is a fine way to avoid overspray into these areas
Last edited by Stickman; 2 December 2007 at 11:54.
If you have been heating your parts as you spray, you should not have any wet or damp items. Nor should you have any sags or drips in your finish. About the only thing I've seen with Norrells is when I have let the paint get too low in the sprayer, and it sputters and throws a blob of paint instead of a nice spray.
I can't blame the finish for mistakes I've made. Thankfully, a few passes with the sprayer and it was looking fine again.
Heating your finished is done in three stages. First is making sure it is dry to the touch. Even though the finish dries as it is applied to a warm surface, I hit every area with the hair dryer again, just to make sure it dried all the way. Second, I let it sit for awhile. I try to wait overnight if possible. This just ensures that all the solvent is out. Then it is into the oven at 300 degrees for an hour. Lastly, I let everything cool down before I try grabbing anything out of the oven.
The temperature setting of 300 degrees is important. Norrells Moly Resin is not a paint, and it will not cure on its own. It may seem to dry, but it won't cure, and the curing is what gives it a hard and durable finish. My new oven is right on when I check it with an oven thermometer, but my old one was off by 30+ degrees. This is enough to ruin an otherwise good project! Take the temperature and make sure it is correct. A $5 oven thermometer is a cheap investment if you don't have one.
Once you have taken it out of the oven, and everything has cooled, there is a simple way to check and see if it has properly cured. In an area that isn't easily viewed, take cloth with lacquer thinner or acetone, and rub on the surface. Nothing should come off, even though Norrells say a minimum amount of color should be visible.
Last edited by Stickman; 2 December 2007 at 11:55.
Stickman I found your guide very easy to follow and not lacking in any way, the only thing I did different was I kept the hair dryer going on other parts while I sprayed the one already heated, that way I didn't have to worry about stopping and having the material in the airbrush separate. I also filled 2 other airbrush bottles with the warmed and shaken material and then just had to give them a quick shake before screwing them on the brush.
Also it helps to place the canned air in a pan of warm water while you are spraying, it keeps the pressure the same no matter how long you spray.
REPLY
I think there are a few of us who find it hard to believe the above was your first AR build, and your first go at refinishing!! Great ideas, keeping the other parts warm while spraying certainly speeds up your refinishing time. Just remember that however you choose to do it, keep all your parts warm so that you don't have to worry about drips or sags. It also keeps your respraying time much shorter as it dries as soon as it hits the surface!
Another idea that I use is to keep my Norrells in a bucket of warm water, this keeps it warm. Its easier to shake, as well as easier to apply this way, especially in the colder weather.
Last edited by Stickman; 2 December 2007 at 11:56.
I find if you heat the moly resin AND preheat the part to 300*F, the moly drys as soon as the droplets hit, and it results in a fuzzy finish that rubs off. Underneath is a semigloss finish.
I preheated to 170*F as that is as low as my oven will go. By the time I took the parts outside, I am sure they were down to 130*-140*. This worked out well.
The only time I've preheated to 300 degrees was to make sure all the grease and oils were out of an item. I have not tried to spray at the 300 degree mark, so I never would have known this! Thanks for passing it along, I think I'll stay with my hairdryer or lower temp methods. I find the product to be a matte finish anyway, especially if you are misting it onto your surface (using the flat finishes). Heavier coatings always tend to take on a bit of a sheen.
REPLY
Great info, thank you!
UPDATED INFO- Part of that is going to be the sprayer settings. I strongly recommend that people get some experience using their sprayers before they start on their AR15 or other weapons. Spraying water on a piece of cardboard can help show your spray pattern. I've found that a thicker coat can often result in a heavy finish and a "slightly off" spray pattern can make this textured look and feel happen.
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