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  1. #1
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    AR15 Refinishing Discussion Thread

    I have a guide on Refinishing AR15s with Norrells MolyResin posted at the below link.


    Please feel free to post questions, comments, suggestions, or lessons learned here.



    NORRELLS AR15 REFINISHING GUIDE








    .
    Last edited by Stickman; 7 March 2009 at 12:57.

  2. #2
    Rktman Guest
    I have an old Bushmaster lower that is turning that red color. I would like to refinish it, so I'm seaching for the black that would match my Noveske N4 upper the best. Any opinions on which black would match best?

  3. #3
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    The Norrells SOCOM black would be a good match for most of the current receiver finishes. Its a very flat black, but part of that depends on application method.

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    Stick, I have a question,
    Can I recoat and/or apply different colors of molly once I have baked for an hour.

    As you mentioned how you paint the parts, reassemble, paint again, then bake. Can I paint everything again after I bake once? I guess thats what I'm asking.

    Thanks,

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    FDE Shotgun w/ Mesa Tactical High Tube Stock Adapt.

    Quote Originally Posted by Stickman View Post
    I have a guide on Refinishing AR15s with Norrells MolyResin posted at the below link.

    http://www.weaponevolution.com/forum...read.php?t=176

    Please feel free to post questions, comments, suggestions, or lessons learned here.
    What are the chances of getting some additional photos of that awesome FDE shot gun I have seen glimpses of.. Remington?

    Nice!
    "No free man shall ever be debarred the use of arms."
    Thomas Jefferson

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by TriggerTX View Post
    Stick, I have a question,
    Can I recoat and/or apply different colors of molly once I have baked for an hour.

    As you mentioned how you paint the parts, reassemble, paint again, then bake. Can I paint everything again after I bake once? I guess thats what I'm asking.

    Thanks,



    There are no problems recoating after curing, what you mention should turn out fine. Just make sure you aren't getting any finger oils or anything else on it between coats.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Malleus Dei View Post
    What are the chances of getting some additional photos of that awesome FDE shot gun I have seen glimpses of.. Remington?

    Nice!
    Thats not my shotgun, though it is pretty slick. I'm not sure what the owner coated it with, I believe it was one of the Brownells spray can coatings, but I could be wrong, and I'm not sure which one he might have used. I'll check and post the info if I remember.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stickman View Post
    There are no problems recoating after curing, what you mention should turn out fine. Just make sure you aren't getting any finger oils or anything else on it between coats.
    Thanks for the helpful info. And thanks for the wright-up. That was a big help.

    Josh

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    Quote Originally Posted by TriggerTX View Post
    Thanks for the helpful info. And thanks for the wright-up. That was a big help.

    Josh


    Glad you liked it. At one point, there was a guide to refinishing 1911s, as well as a guide to refinishing 870s also. They were on a board that went away, and I didn't have copies of the writeups.

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    How get a Kimber Warrior lower with Kim-Pro finish read to be Sprayed with Norrells Blk? Do I need to BeadBlast the whole 1911A1 lower down to bare steel?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stickman View Post
    At one point, there was a guide to refinishing 1911s, as well as a guide to refinishing 870s also. They were on a board that went away, and I didn't have copies of the writeups.
    Stick,

    I realize you've probably already considered this, but just in case you aren't aware of it, did you give The Wayback Machine a try? Seems like a long shot when we're talking about a defunct forum, but it might be worth a quick recon to confirm that.

    AC

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lawdog View Post
    How get a Kimber Warrior lower with Kim-Pro finish read to be Sprayed with Norrells Blk? Do I need to BeadBlast the whole 1911A1 lower down to bare steel?

    I wouldn't bead blast anything, it creates a slick surface, I would sand/ aluminum oxide blast. The Norrells website gives good info on which grades and PSI to use.



    AC- I've got to remember where it was, its worth a check.

  13. #13
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    Well my first paint job is complete, well until I refinish the scope again. I'm not too happy with the Norrell's air dry paint. It hasn't adhered to my Leupold scope very well at all. This thing was CLEAN. I chose not to blast in the event that the paint adhesion sucked, so at least there would be a black base, well with this airdry I'm back to the black stock finish real quick.

    And unless I chose the wrong color, it doesn't match at all to the tan heat dry applied to the rest of the rifle.

    Has anyone had better luck with airdry?

  14. #14
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    I have not used the air dry version at all, so I'm not going to be much help. Can you strip it back off, or is it too late for that?

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    Yeah, it will come off nooo problem.

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