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  1. #16
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    Norells on blued firearms

    Stick,
    Any special prep using Norells on blued firearms...will it adhear any differently than on a parked surface?
    Thanx in advance!

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tee-Bruce View Post
    Stick,
    Any special prep using Norells on blued firearms...will it adhear any differently than on a parked surface?
    Thanx in advance!


    Parkerized steel is the best, and its surface soaks it in. Bluing is hard to coat, and giving it a quick sand blasting would certainly yield better results. I want to say that the www.molyresin.com webpage talked a bit about coating over a blued surface.


    http://www.molyresin.com/molyresin_tips.asp

    Pretreatment: All Metals
    The surface of the parts to be coated should be clean and free of any oils, solvents, etc. Best adhesion is a freshly abrasive blaster surface using 60 to 90 grit aluminum oxide at 60 to 80 psi. Best cleaning methods appear to be soap and water; however, a chemical cleaning with MEK, acetone, etc. is also acceptable. The dullest finish for each color is achieved by abrasive blasting before coating. This will give the best coat bonding and adhesion, as well as, uniform texture. Sandblasting removes minor scratches and metal surface imperfections. You may have varied adhesion results over a blued finish as some are too smooth to allow proper adhesion. If you rough up or totally remove the blued finish with sandpaper, you may have acceptable adhesion. Chrome or nickel-plated parts should always be abrasive blasted for best adhesion. After sandblasting, rinse parts off with soap and water to remove sand dust and oil from the air compressor. In regard to air pressure used to abrasive blast the metal, use low pressure of 40 to 50 psi for aluminum and 60 to 80 psi on steel.

  3. #18
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    This may be a little off topic but...how durable is a holographic print "dip"? Lakota Ind.
    -Mitch-

  4. #19
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    Thanx Stick!

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Uglyduck View Post
    This may be a little off topic but...how durable is a holographic print "dip"? Lakota Ind.
    I am unsure of what they coat the film transfer with, so I'm not sure. It would be interesting to find out.

  6. #21
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    Here was one of my first attempts. An A1 upper on a Bushmaster lower. I did the upper, not the lower.



    Bigger size
    http://coloradoshooting.org/v-web/ga...MT_CAR_021.jpg


    I used flat black on this one. I picked up a cheap Testors brand compressor out of the model airplane aisle at Walmart for like $50. I cleaned it with whatever I had around. I put it in the oven to heat it up first. Then I sprayed it. Then I cured it in the oven.

    Now my wife hates the smell, and I was almost single again for doing it. Now I do it when its warm out and she's not home. I just leave the kitchen doors and windows open.

    Overall I'm happy with it. I did a CZ52 also just for fun, and a 20" AR barrel that had been turned down from an HBAR to a Govt profile. No pictures of those.

    When people see it, they never assume I did the finish myself.

  7. #22
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    Looks good. The SGW A1 I just picked up is a candidate for this, and I've been reading up on it most of the morning. I actually found an old thread from 04-05 that had a 1911 Stickman did...

    My only thing is prep. While there's nothing terrible on either, there's just a couple of small knicks around both sides of the mag release, and the edges of the magwell. I know they say no media blasting, so I'm guessing maybe high grit emery board? I've got a small air compressor and air brush that I've used form motorcycle parts, looks like I'll be doing refinishing on the guns now too. These threads have talked me into it.

  8. #23
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    Ok, Found a neat little tool for abrasive blasting, and easily controlable to avoid the pin hole areas. Tha Paasche Air Eraser kit.

    http://www.jerrysartarama.com/discou...ccessories.htm

    I figured since I had an airbrush compressor this would work out perfect. It comes with a 1/4 in connector, so I found that it works best off a standard air compressor. Between 30 and 45 lbs of pressure it roughs the finish without removal, and 60-80 will takes it off with focused effort. I had several high spots I wanted to pay special attention to, and some homegrown texturing that needed to be smoothed. I also wanted to have the logo and lettering show a bit better after refinishing so I did some pointed areas there also. Overall, a handy tool, and if you have small projects aside from weapons refinishing (this will come in handy on the sporty) a worthwhile investment.

    My SGW lower, ready to go to Orion for SBR marking -


  9. #24
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    On a anodized surface, there is no need to abrasive blast. If there was a teflon finish applied over the top, it might be a different story.

  10. #25
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    Stickman will Norrells Moly work good on a bolt carrier would it reduce friction any?

  11. #26
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    Very informitive post Mr.Stick! Thanks!
    Now if I ever get nit-picky about an upper & lower that don't have similar finishes, I know there is an easy affordable fix even a barney like me can rock.

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thomas M-4 View Post
    Stickman will Norrells Moly work good on a bolt carrier would it reduce friction any?


    I've done it, and it doesn't seem to make a big difference, if any.

  13. #28
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    Gotcha thanks one last thing does it seem to wear normal.

  14. #29
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    Norrells wears very well, or I would not have bothered doing the writeup.

  15. #30
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    stainless steel

    Hi

    I have a sdi 16" ss barrel that was suppose to have a duracoat finish on it that I paid some one to add on when I had this rifle built. Well the stuff is just falling off and I really doubt its duracoat. I would like to refinish this barrel. Does norrel or cerakote work with stainless steal? Since purchasing this rifle I've learned much more about ar's to where I'm pretty good about rebuilding them but I don't have refinishing experince. I was looking at doing it myself since I have airbrushs and the tools but the supplies and time I don't have. So any recommendations on who I could trust to have this done right would be great.

    Oh I almost had someone bead blast it for me so thanks for posting the info on bead blasting slickness

    Thanks

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