Page 3 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast
Results 31 to 45 of 63
  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    5,554
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0
    If you abrasive/ sand blasted the barrel, Norrells would adhere without any problem.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    NW FL
    Posts
    332
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0
    It's been a bit, but I finally got around to refinishing both the SGW A-1, and my Para P-13 with Norrell's.

    Before:



    After:



    My carry gun, ParaOrdnance P-13:









    I used two different spray guns between the AR and the .45. The one for the AR was more of a detail gun, which laid it fairly thin. Switched to the Badger Hobby gun, much more flow and threw me off a bit, hence the few foil marks in the finish around the mag release button.

    Overall, I love the Norrell's.
    Last edited by GriffonSec; 22 January 2010 at 13:50.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Lone Star State
    Posts
    12
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0
    so how is the finish of the project AR holding up Stick?

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    5,554
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0
    Its not getting anywhere near the abuse it should be to be honest.

    However, the duty carbine that I refinished 5 years ago has held up fantastic, and that was a weapon that I beat the dog snot out of. It has been handed over to a friend/ squad member, and he now carries it as his duty weapon.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Lone Star State
    Posts
    12
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0
    Good deal. Can you recommend a good product to coat a SS barrel w/o backing it?

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    5,554
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by ColdDeadHands View Post
    Good deal. Can you recommend a good product to coat a SS barrel w/o backing it?

    I'm not sure what you mean by backing.

    With the SS barrels that I've seen, they all need to be sand blasted. There are very cheap ways to coat a barrel. Norrells or KG Gunkote is a very thin thermal cure product which is fantastic. If you want to go cheap, you can pick up header spray paint from any autoparts store, just make sure you go with the very high heat versions (1200 duplicolor in black), and that is functional also.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    88
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0
    Stick all I can say is thank you! This place is like a brain trust. Your tutorial just solved a problem I was concerned with on a HBAR project. I was thinking I would need to send the Colt lower out to get refinished so it would match a LT 13.2 rail and DD big hole upper. Thanks again!

    Now, I just have to get past destroying a like new Pre Ban no sear block Colt A2 HBAR. As a Colt guy it kills me to do, but I really want a flat top HBAR that I will shoot instead of just looking at it in the safe looking all pretty.

    Am I an idiot for considering this?

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Lone Star State
    Posts
    12
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0
    lol I meant baking. You answered my question tho, thanks.

    Quote Originally Posted by Stickman View Post
    I'm not sure what you mean by backing.

    With the SS barrels that I've seen, they all need to be sand blasted. There are very cheap ways to coat a barrel. Norrells or KG Gunkote is a very thin thermal cure product which is fantastic. If you want to go cheap, you can pick up header spray paint from any autoparts store, just make sure you go with the very high heat versions (1200 duplicolor in black), and that is functional also.

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Nescopeck, PA
    Posts
    42
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0
    Although not mentioned much here, I use Duracoat exclusively since there is no baking. For a one time job they offer kits that will get a small job like a barrel done no problem. I use Duraheat (resists 1800 degrees) on any parts I expect high temp like carbine barrels and gas blocks. Duraheat doesn't get mixed like duracoat, so it's even faster to use. Just air dry and assemble in 24 hours. The HK black duraheat (not duracoat) is the best match I have seen to make a barrel match a Vortex Flash hider. A PWS 556 is slightly more gray in color than the HK duraheat. I had two daniel defense gas blocks that rusted up and I almost couldn't get the screws off when I wanted to change the barrel. So I sand blast them too now and use the duraheat. I, personally, have had excellent results with these products for what its worth.

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    836
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    3
    Iím partial to Duracoat as well. No matter what you use, I think the key to a good refinishing job is the prep work. If itís a ferrous metal, I always degrease, then sand blast with Aluminum Oxide, then parkerize, then I apply the Duracoat. Any other metal gets everything but the parkerizing -- Same thing with polymer materials. Scopes, however, donít get the blast. Those I rough up the surface with a Scotchbrite pad.

    I've posted this pic in other forums, but here are a couple of weapons I Duracoated: (yes, the flash hider is mounted upside down)


  11. #41
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    836
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    3
    Not to hijack the thread, but I came across some older project photographs that you may find interesting. A guy came to me with a really banged up AR. It's previous user had etched his name in the forward assist housing. He wanted the whole thing fixed and refinished.

    Hereís the upper receiver (disassembled) the way it came to me:


    I preped the upper as mentioned in my previous post, then I used Durafil (made by the manufacturers of Duracoat) to fill in the etched area. This is applied by airbrush or HVLP (airbrush in this instance) in coats, then sanded smooth. Hereís a picture of the Durafil applied:


    Then I Duracoated the upper:


    This is the finished product:

    (Sorry...these photos are not up to my normal standard, but good enough to be informative.)

  12. #42
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Medford, OR
    Posts
    117
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0
    On a anodized surface, there is no need to abrasive blast. If there was a teflon finish applied over the top, it might be a different story.
    For Cerakote a light blasting of 100grit Alum-ox is preferred. You don't want to hog the ano off, just texture it for better adhesion. I would think this true of any ceramic application... surface prep is the key.

  13. #43
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    NW FL
    Posts
    332
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0
    Digging up the dead here......

    Re-refinished the SGW A1. I love the simplicity with the Norrell's. I let it heat up more than other projects to get it a bit flatter for the "theme build".

    Grey-Black moly resin for my XM177e2 Clone/RestoMod. Should have the barrel back from ADCO Monday or Tuesday.




  14. #44
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    5,554
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0
    Looks good, the preheating really makes a difference and helps keep it a very flat color.

  15. #45
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    NW FL
    Posts
    332
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0
    New project finished for a friend (the one I had trigger issues with). 14.5" pinned BABC 6.8 middy, Norell's gray/black moly resin on rail, upper/lower recievers, A5 extension tube. Again, preheated the parts to about 225, cured, then final coat after the parts cooled to about 250 then a recure (2 cured coats):






Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •