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  1. #46
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    That's really slick looking. That grey is beautiful.
    -One Nation, Under God

    -"The bad news is time flies. The good news is you're the pilot." ~ Michael Althsuler

  2. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aragorn View Post
    That's really slick looking. That grey is beautiful.

    Agree..nice job!

  3. #48
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    The color looks great, nice job!

  4. #49
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    Many thanks, I'm really glad he was pleased with the outcome as well.

  5. #50
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    I think a lot of people miss the preheat concept when they do refinishing. It can make a huge difference.

  6. #51
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    Agreed. Aside from prep/cleaning after several experiments, preheating is the most important part not only for final finish, but seems to lay a bit more even while working with it. I use the heat gun on high only between each light coat to help maintain close to the preheat temp. I run the final, second cured coat with the upper and lower together, to ensure the finish matches as close as possible. For some reason, it seems the uppers try to turn a green/gray, much like the old park'd color when shooting the grey/black. Not really noticeable in pictures, but under flourescents it is.

  7. #52
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    Stick, any experience with Cerakote's micro slick on a lower? 5pins did a couple of A2s with dry film lubricant, as did Markm on an upper, but dont know which type they used nor how they've held up so far. Interested to know how this coating goes on and holds up. I plan on coating a BCG with this stuff and figured I'd use the rest to refinish an old lower.

  8. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gator View Post
    Stick, any experience with Cerakote's micro slick on a lower?

    No, no use of it at all.

  9. #54
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    The heat cured version of Micro-Slick works better than the air cure IME.

    I coated one BCG in each on my carbines and the Heat Cure seems tougher, not showing as much wear on the rails.

    I would not use it in place of H-series cerakote on a lower though. It's 1/10th the thickness of Cerakote and will wear faster.

    cerakote has some lubricity of its own and seems good enough to me. Whatever VLTOR has in their uppers is the slickest stuff I've seen and makes for a smoother action than either NIC product IMO.

    -Jim (certified Cerakote Applicator)

  10. #55
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    Thanks! I really appreciate it.

  11. #56
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    Aug 2012
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    Thumbs up

    MolyResin is the best...!
    I use it all the time I refinish...

  12. #57
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    Quick shot of FDE on some stuff....


  13. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Uglyduck View Post
    This may be a little off topic but...how durable is a holographic print "dip"? Lakota Ind.
    Personal experience has shown that it stays around and SOLID for at least 5 to 7 years depending on usage. I have used it for a number of things around the house. It is EASY to apply - just apply it to something else first to get the hang of it.

    I actually applied some to my son's rims instead of spending another grand on new ones and he gets more attention from the perceived "One Offs" that I think he would from new rims.

    Just one word of caution - once you start - everything you see will look like it needs to be "dipped"!

    Check out this vid for a better idea:
    Thanks!

    Chris

    If it doesn't fit - get a bigger hammer.

    Blaming guns for violence is like blaming the mirror for the way you look <-- Eventually you have to deal with the CAUSE not the symptom

  14. #59
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    I've used Moly resin once before and it turned out great. In regards to the thermal curing, does anyone have experience with coating Magpul products and curing them at a lower temp for a longer duration? I see one of the post here mention plastics but doesn't specifically talk about Magpul products.

  15. #60
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    Yes, I've done it. The problem is that the metal components which are often in the polymers take the heat different, which can often bring about damage.

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