Tango Down Scar Panel

[ej06rb]

Just placed these on my rifle and for the most part are very happy with the low profile they provide and the nice grip, however I notice very slight movement on the rail. It seem s if the locking tab were slightly larger this issue would go away. Has anybody else had this issue? There mounted on a LMT MRP CQB rail if this matters.

[AR-10]

I noticed this too when I installed SCAR panels over a Troy MRF handguard.

They have a tiny bit of forward/aft movement but I didn't think it was anything to be concerned with because no matter how hard you push or pull, the panels aren't sliding off until you lift the tab.

[Quib]

Not sure if this would be applicable to the SCAR Panels, but this is a tip I use to tighten up loose KAC Panels....http://www.weaponevolution.com/forum...ight=kac+panel

[Duffy]

On KAC and Daniel Defense rails, they'll wobble a little bit. As AR-10 said, it won't fall off. On rails that are on the thick side of the tolerance, they can be difficult to slide on, it's impossible to make them fit every rail perfectly :)

[ej06rb]

I wasn't sure if this was common or not as this is my first experience with these rail panels. Overall I 'm very happy with them and will continue to use them.

[ej06rb]

Not sure if this would be applicable to the SCAR Panels, but this is a tip I use to tighten up loose KAC Panels....http://www.weaponevolution.com/forum...ight=kac+panel

Quib , just curious I took a look at your fix and when you run the rifle hard and heat up those rails did you have any of the silicone you put on your KAC panel transfer over to the rails itself?

[Quib]

Quib , just curious I took a look at your fix and when you run the rifle hard and heat up those rails did you have any of the silicone you put on your KAC panel transfer over to the rails itself?

No problems as of yet.....

I'd have to check the specs on the Black RTV, but I have never run the weapon to the point that the rails would be so hot that they would melt RTV.

If a person runs their weapon that hot, they may want to consider Hi-Temp "Red" RTV.

[ej06rb]

I ended up putting ladder panels aft of the scar panels to tighten it up and now there is no movement at all .

[AR-10]

Depending on the size of your handguard, that might not be possible.

On a 7" handguard, a SCAR panel will cover up the entire 1913 rail so there won't be any room for ladders unless you trim the panels.

Honestly I think you're worrying about this too much, when you hold your rifle with a firm grip the panels squeeze up against the handguard and you aren't going to notice any "play".

If it really bothers you take a look at Gear Sectors light and sling mounts. They are designed to work with TangoDown panels, and if you use one on the opposite end of the tab on the SCAR panel, you can "capture" the panel and it won't move.

QUIB's silicone idea sounds like a very effective and inexpensive way to fix this. Also, black RTV has a melting point of 500 degrees once it has cured - I use it on exhaust flanges & gaskets all the time and I've never seen it melt.

[Quib]

QUIB's silicone idea sounds like a very effective and inexpensive way to fix this.

It's worked for me with good results.

Also, black RTV has a melting point of 500 degrees once it has cured - I use it on exhaust flanges & gaskets all the time and I've never seen it melt.

The RTV I used was nothing special, and was locally purchased, I believe it was Permatex RTV that I used, and yes, the Black is rated at 500 deg. F.... far hotter than I ever plan on getting my HG's, so at the time I thought up this "quick-fix" heat was never an issue to even consider.

[ej06rb]

I received this email from tango down the other day when inquiring as to the loose fitting panels and here was there response.


Thank you for contacting us. The play you describe in your SCAR panels is
normal. It is there to allow for manufacturing tolerances in the rail
itself, and for dirt, debris, etc. Should you have excessive play due to
undersize rails, you can simply 'dimple' the back side of the rail panel
with a soldering iron in a few areas under the overhangs to tighten things
up.

Sounds like another good fix ...