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  1. #1
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    My First Build Advice

    I just found this site and I like it much better so far than a few others out there.


    I am planning, slowly acquiring parts for my first build and wanted to get a consensous on my parts laydown. I already own several ARs mostly geared towards precision set-ups and wanted to build a very rugged range gun/self defense/ beater rifle. I plan to build a M4 style rifle (not a exact clone) that will be robust, reliable and different than my middy recce/spr type rifles.
    I see this as a high round count rifle that i can abuse and can take the abuse. As far as budget goes, I do have a limit but am not as concerned with that as I am getting good parts. I also limited my self to assembling almost the entire rifle from individual pieces and not purchasing assemblies. (i want to learn and like the idea of buildning from scratch). Any suggestions on parts to make this tougher/more reliable would be apprciated.

    Here is what I have so far

    - Colt 14.5" M4 SOCOM Barrel (Carbine length with F mark FSB)
    - Battle Comp 1.5
    - Barnes Precsion Machine Lower
    - Palmetto State Armory LPK
    - Giessele SSA Trigger (contemplating the Super 3 Gun trigger. Any thoughts?)
    - LMT SOPMOD Stock (had this on hand but may decide to choose something different)
    - MOE Pistol Grip
    - LMT Fixed back-up rear sight
    - Aimpoint H-1 on Larue Tall mount
    - DD Omega 7 quad rails

    What I still need/want

    - Upper Reciever: Looking at the VLTOR MUR or Forged upper from various companies (Noveske,LMT,BCM,Ranier Arms)
    - BCG: Looking at a Fail Zero or Spikes NiB
    - Charging handle: BCM Gunfighter with med latch
    - Buffer: Spikes ST-T2 Buffer
    - Buffer Spring: Tactical Spring Co extra power
    - Reciever extension: LMT/Spikes/BCM (Is there really that much difference between manufactures with these?)
    - Noveske QD End Plate
    - Gas tube (Is there really that much difference between manufactures with these?)
    - VTAC sling
    - Larue Index clips for hand guard area

  2. #2
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    If you are building it from scratch, I'd go with a different handguard, such as the DD Lite or Troy TRX. I'd also get the SSA Trigger. Those buffer tubes are all good. Just make sure you get a millspec one. Everything else looks good for a M4 type.

  3. #3
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    Out of curiosity why do you recommend the DD Lite over the Omega? Is it the obvious weight savings or is other features, I have not seen in person the DD lites so I don't have a comparison

    Thanks

  4. #4
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    The MUR upper is pretty hardcore, but I'm not sure that I'm gaining anything more than extra weight with mine. I like it, but my next build will not have one. The FZ BCG rocks. I run mine with a very thin coat of Slip EWL 30. It's super slick and ridiculously easy to clean, nothing seems to stick to it. No matter what I shoot through it or how much of it, all it takes to clean it is a wipe down with a shop rag. Q-Tips for the harder to reach areas. The bolt is slightly discolored by now but that's not something I'm worried about.

    If I was to do it over I'd be inclined to get the Spike's NiB BCG and (since FZ is now selling individual components) a stripped FZ upper. The logic behind that is that the Spike's BCG is cheaper than the FZ, and that the two together plus a dustcover assembly and forward assist assembly is still cheaper than the complete upper kit from FZ. I'd add a BCM GF CH and be good to go. Again though, that's just what I would do if I went back and rebuilt mine.

    As for rails, I really like my DD Lite. It's easily one of the most solid rails out there, and the only thing the Omega has over the Lite is a built in QD socket.
    -One Nation, Under God

    -"The bad news is time flies. The good news is you're the pilot." ~ Michael Althsuler

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by 15ICAM View Post
    Out of curiosity why do you recommend the DD Lite over the Omega? Is it the obvious weight savings or is other features, I have not seen in person the DD lites so I don't have a comparison

    Thanks
    The Omega is designed for guys who want a Free Float rail without having to remove anything. They are great for the military guys. If you are putting the upper together, you don't need all those extra parts.

  6. #6
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    Thanks for the feedback I will definatly look into those options.. As for the FailZero upper, I like that option, I searched and found Brownells has the stripped upper for $119 which seems like a good price and Fail Zero's web site says you can buy individual components by calling, I wonder if the BCG would be more in line with the Spikes BCG if I bought it without the hammer that comes with the kit...guess I will just have to call and see.

  7. #7
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    Are you going the SBR route with this rifle?

  8. #8
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    Not at this time, the BC 1.5 will be pinned, I move quite frequently (about every 2 years) so I am waiting on the SBR route until I can settle in a place for a period of time, I know I can move with a SBR but I with all the other stuff involved in moving its one less headache to deal with

  9. #9
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    In that case, my only advice woulld be to do as much research as possible.

    That would really suck to have to trash an expensive comp because you don't like it or need to remove your front sight for some reason.

  10. #10
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    I'd drop the SOCOM barrel. I have one, and love it, but for a first build, I'd go with a lightweight, N4 Lite, or Government - dropping half a pound is pretty significant, and unless you have a giggle switch, the heavier SOCOM profile is useless.
    I'd say get a hammer forged Government profile middy in that length - will work great with the BC1.5.

    Lite rail >> Omega if you're going from scratch - I'd look at a 10" or 12" one for this application. If the SmartGunner DD Complete Upper with Aimpoint Micro deal comes back, I'd jump on this configuration for the entire upper.
    Rear sight: the LMT is great, the Daniel Defense and LaRue are also great options and worth a look.

    A simple MPI bolt carrier group will work. For a first build, I'd just get one that works (LMT, BCM, DD, GTS) and worry about coatings down the road. Learn how to lubricate it, and do so properly - this works better.
    The MUR - looks fantastic, but is wasted money if you're skimping elsewhere on the build. That money would be better spent on an optic or high end weaponlight.

    If the VTAC Sling is on the table, I'd look at the VLTOR IMOD stock - same size as the LMT SOPMOD, but easier to access battery compartments, better price, and I prefer the angled buttpad.
    The Gunfighter Mod4 (or Mod5) handle is fantastic - I'd use that sticker on the MOD stock and you'll be set.

    The G2X Surefire is a great weaponlight choice - there are others, but that's the best value for the money. Get a good offset mount and you'll be happy.


    The PSA LPK with GSSA is a fantastic choice. If the Noveske QD Endplate will get used, that's a fantastic addition as well. The Aimpoint H1 on LT660 is another great choice.
    S/F
    "There is no greater calling than to defend the life of a fellow Marine" - LtCol McClane, USMC

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