Buffer Tubes???

**WileyCoyote** · 30 September 2009, 21:39

Does anyone know what milspec buffer tubes are the best to buy? Does it matter what brand you buy? I have a LWCR M6A3. I just bought it but while removing the staked castle nut which was pretty hard to say the least, I kinda grinded the threads on my brand new buffer tube. I was pissed to say the least. It prob happened because I didnt know what I was doing at first or just dumb luck. Anyway I installed my new Magpul ASAP plate and then while putting the castle nut back on i kinda reamed the castle nut too. Grrr what a drag. I was using the Armorer AR15 wrench from BravoCo. The ASAP plate does not allow that wrench to be fully square on the castle nut so it kept slipping which burred the castle nut notches. So I have to get a new castle nut too. Brand new rifle and messed it up already. Does anyone recommend a different wrench or a better wrench for the castle nut, etc?? Thanks

**rebelEMPIRE** · 30 September 2009, 21:48

Use a strap wrench if you are having difficulty mating your armorer's tool onto your castle nut. Remember it only takes 40 INCH/LBS to tighten that nut. You can buy a strap wrench at your local auto parts store for pretty cheap (around 10 bucks).

Bravo Company USA has a really good buffer tube. I've bought buffer tubes from other suppliers, but when I compare Bravo's with others, the finish and metal surface is far superior on Bravo's. Also, I noticed a difference with the CTR stock installed. Bravo mated with CTR locked in place does not move at all, no matter how much I pulled and pushed. Whereas with this other supplier's, I was able to force it to slip a little forward and aft. I don't want to name the other supplier because I have limited experience with their goods (don't want to ruin reputation).

-rebelEMPIRE

**John Hwang** · 30 September 2009, 22:29

There are many milspec buffer tubes out there. I haven't tried Bravo Co's but it wouldn't surprise me if there tubes were great. My personal favorite is LMT but not too many vendors sell them separately. I usually use STAG which is made by CMT. Colt's buffer tubes are also made by CMT (4 position). They are much better than VLTOR from my personal experience as the threads tend to strip if you put too much torque on them.

Also, I have never had good luck using a strap wrench. I don't think you could get 40ft/lbs of torque on it.

**rebelEMPIRE** · 30 September 2009, 22:42

I was sold when I found that BCM's was a 6-position buffer tube.

**Slippers** · 1 October 2009, 00:53

I recently replaced a commercial extension tube on one of my lowers with the BCM mil-spec extension. It is indeed 6 position, and my Magpul ACS is quite solid on it.
http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/Stock...ware%20kit.htm

For a castle nut wrench I picked up an RRA stock wrench, which is $6.00 from brownells: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1...4_STOCK_WRENCH

It engages three of the notches on the castle nut so it can't easily slip off.

**rebelEMPIRE** · 1 October 2009, 01:45

Originally Posted by John Hwang

Also, I have never had good luck using a strap wrench. I don't think you could get 40ft/lbs of torque on it.

John, I think you're confusing the rifle buffer tube torque values with the castle nut torque values. Wiley is having trouble torquing the castle nut with the armorer's tool because of Magpul's ASAP getting in the way. 40 INCH/LBS is torque you can apply with a screw driver; as such it can be applied applied with a strap wrench given that you have an extra 6+ inches of leverage.

-rebelEMPIRE

**WileyCoyote** · 1 October 2009, 03:01

Originally Posted by John Hwang

There are many milspec buffer tubes out there. I haven't tried Bravo Co's but it wouldn't surprise me if there tubes were great. My personal favorite is LMT but not too many vendors sell them separately. I usually use STAG which is made by CMT. Colt's buffer tubes are also made by CMT (4 position). They are much better than VLTOR from my personal experience as the threads tend to strip if you put too much torque on them.

Also, I have never had good luck using a strap wrench. I don't think you could get 40ft/lbs of torque on it.

I was looking at the LMT's and the one from Bravo. I'm also looking at and really liking the Spikes Tactical Mil Spec Buffer Tube Assembly. The kit has everything I will need and comes with their new ST-T2 buffer which looks cool. Does the weight of the buffer matter? Should I just keep the buffer that came with my LWRC? This kit seems really nice and for the same money I would spend on a LMT or Bravo plus a new castle nut. I like Spikes Tactical from what Ive seen but never had any personal experience with their products.

**WileyCoyote** · 1 October 2009, 03:04

Originally Posted by Slippers

I recently replaced a commercial extension tube on one of my lowers with the BCM mil-spec extension. It is indeed 6 position, and my Magpul ACS is quite solid on it.
http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/Stock...ware%20kit.htm

For a castle nut wrench I picked up an RRA stock wrench, which is $6.00 from brownells: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1...4_STOCK_WRENCH

It engages three of the notches on the castle nut so it can't easily slip off.

Have you seen Spikes Tactical wrench? http://www.spikestactical.com/z/inde...q7c1m9auo47uk0

It is very nice looking and for 20 bucks it looks like a good buy. I also like their buffer tube aseembly kit. Good kit for the money I think. Anyway thanks for you help and insight

**Slippers** · 1 October 2009, 03:41

The spikes wrench does the same thing as the RRA wrench I linked (3 points of contact on the castle nut, plus A2 stock wrench). If you want to spend $14 more for the same tool, go for it.

The BCM mil-spec extension includes a castle nut. You don't need to get a separate one. It's also cheaper than the spike's kit.

Whether or not you need the heavier spike's buffer depends on your individual rifle. You can also get a heavier buffer with the BCM extension, but it adds additional cost.

**Eric** · 1 October 2009, 07:49

Originally Posted by John Hwang

There are many milspec buffer tubes out there. I haven't tried Bravo Co's but it wouldn't surprise me if there tubes were great. My personal favorite is LMT but not too many vendors sell them separately. I usually use STAG which is made by CMT. Colt's buffer tubes are also made by CMT (4 position). They are much better than VLTOR from my personal experience as the threads tend to strip if you put too much torque on them.

Also, I have never had good luck using a strap wrench. I don't think you could get 40ft/lbs of torque on it.

I had an issue with a VLTOR that had improperly cut threads and had to go back. The replacement worked okay. No issues with the CMT/Stag tubes that I have used. Good info on the LMT.

**rob_s** · 1 October 2009, 10:39

Originally Posted by John Hwang

Colt's buffer tubes are also made by CMT (4 position).

Where did you get that information? I do not believe that is correct.

From what I understand the Colt tubes are forged while everyone else that I've ever asked extrudes their tubes.

**Jimbo45** · 15 November 2010, 05:12

Originally Posted by rob_s

Where did you get that information? I do not believe that is correct.

From what I understand the Colt tubes are forged while everyone else that I've ever asked extrudes their tubes.

Bump for any new info on this subject.

Just what is the difference between a "forged" extension, and an "extruded" one (assuming both are of 7075 material) ? I would guess, using the terms loosely, the two processes might not be all that different, depending on the variations of each process. Anyone have any new information on this topic?

**AR-10** · 15 November 2010, 08:31

Originally Posted by rebelEMPIRE

John, I think you're confusing the rifle buffer tube torque values with the castle nut torque values. Wiley is having trouble torquing the castle nut with the armorer's tool because of Magpul's ASAP getting in the way. 40 INCH/LBS is torque you can apply with a screw driver; as such it can be applied applied with a strap wrench given that you have an extra 6+ inches of leverage.

-rebelEMPIRE

Regardless of the receiver extension type, the torque is 40 foot lbs.

If you're looking in a -23&P manual, that is a typo.

It's 35-39 ft. lbs. for a rifle receiver extension and 40 ft. lbs. for a carbine.

Edited to add: I really, really don't like 4-position tubes. I had one on my Colt and found myself actually needing more positions, exactly in the spot where Colt left them out. I replaced it with a 6-position LMT tube and I've been happy ever since.

**Paulo_Santos** · 15 November 2010, 08:39

Originally Posted by AR-10

Regardless of the receiver extension type, the torque is 40 foot lbs.

If you're looking in a -23&P manual, that is a typo.

It's 35-39 ft. lbs. for a rifle receiver extension and 40 ft. lbs. for a carbine.

Edited to add: I really, really don't like 4-position tubes. I had one on my Colt and found myself actually needing more positions, exactly in the spot where Colt left them out. I replaced it with a 6-position LMT tube and I've been happy ever since.

I agree with you on the 4-position tubes.

**AR-10** · 15 November 2010, 08:42

Originally Posted by Jimbo45

Bump for any new info on this subject.

Just what is the difference between a "forged" extension, and an "extruded" one (assuming both are of 7075 material) ? I would guess, using the terms loosely, the two processes might not be all that different, depending on the variations of each process. Anyone have any new information on this topic?

Forged - the metal is "hammered" into it's shape and a good forger can control how the grains in the metal move, this can mean a very strong part.

Extruded - metal is pushed through a hole (think Play Doh) and the grains in the metal stay uniform and in the same direction, like in a piece of wood.

Someone who knows a lot more about metallurgy will probably expand on that...

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