AR Setup with question.

[Cobalt]

There are probably a million and one reviews or insight on BCM products. I built my current AR about 2 years ago from a Stag Arms Model 2H upper and a Black Rain billet lower.
Here are my current mods to it.
Upgraded the bolt to a BCM BCG
EOTech 517
Troy Ind 13 Bravo Quad Rail
Noveske QD End Plate
Vltor EMOD Stock
Magpul MIAD Grip
Troy Ind HK Sights

I want to pickup an Aimpoint T1, B5 Systems Sopmod, BCM KMR, BCM Midlength BFH Lightweight 16in barrel and a BAD Ambi Safety.

My question is does anybody run this setup or similar and think it's worth it?
My primary goal is to upgrade my rifle's parts but also loose some unnecessary weight. What do you guys think?

[mustangfreek]

Not sure how to answer you , except..Sounds like a good excuse to build another rifle...

[Gaspipeshooter]

Not sure how to answer you , except..Sounds like a good excuse to build another rifle...

I was thinking the same thing...lol.

Cobalt, with that new parts list, it wouldn't take much more to finish off a complete rifle. One can never have too many ARs!

[RiverRat]

I built something similar to where you're headed (LW 14.5, KMR13, BCM BCG, Bravo SOPMOD, MBUS PRO, PA Microdot that will eventually become an H1). And yes, I like it better than some of the other configurations I've built - it's fast and just plain fun. Don't be surprised if you burn through some cash looking for "the perfect muzzle device" on the lighter carbine.

When I see someone say "I'm buying a new barrel, rail and optic; and I've already upgraded my BCG" it makes me wonder why they aren't just spending a little more to build a new complete upper. Especially in a case like this where one has to buy a new 0.625" gas block anyway - you're not really re-using that much stuff. The older complete upper could be sold to recoup some value.

That said, from what you're considering:

I stil don't know why so people want T1's instead of a lower-priced H1 ($535 delivered, with ADM mount). Are that many folks really running night vision gear or submerging their rifles in 20' of water?

That's a seriously good barrel that most people would be very unlikely to shoot out. But I believe that the KMR rail isn't right for everyone - despite the cool WOW factor and some great marketing. It's a pain to install without damage (a heat gun, really?) and the magnesium alloy is relatively soft/fragile.
- If you're married to keymod, I would be inclined to recommend a 12" FORCE over the 13" KMR for most builds. It is almost $100 less expensive, installs easily, is rock solid, is more rugged overall and weighs only 2.4 oz more.
- If the Force's 1.8" OD bugs you (e.g., with a LW barrel profile), I would suggest at a 12" Midwest Industries SSK, which weights in very near the KMR, has a smaller OD, comes in $70 under the KMR and is still made of harder stuff.
- And yes, I had to buy a KMR myself to reach this conclusion, so I understand if you still want to try one :)

The BAD selector is no-brainer good and I would seriously consider spending the cash saved with the alternate rails on a FCG upgrade.
- I'm sold on ALG/Geissele but there are plenty of other great options depending on the carbine's use.

[Calengor]

That's a seriously good barrel that most people would be very unlikely to shoot out. But I believe that the KMR rail isn't right for everyone - despite the cool WOW factor and some great marketing. It's a pain to install without damage (a heat gun, really?) and the magnesium alloy is relatively soft/fragile.
- If you're married to keymod, I would be inclined to recommend a 12" FORCE over the 13" KMR for most builds. It is almost $100 less expensive, installs easily, is rock solid, is more rugged overall and weighs only 2.4 oz more.
- If the Force's 1.8" OD bugs you (e.g., with a LW barrel profile), I would suggest at a 12" Midwest Industries SSK, which weights in very near the KMR, has a smaller OD, comes in $70 under the KMR and is still made of harder stuff.
- And yes, I had to buy a KMR myself to reach this conclusion, so I understand if you still want to try one :).

I've heard of people using hair dryers to install the KMR, seems like something most folks have around the house. I hadn't heard anything about softness/fragility of the magnesium/aluminum alloy, however. Care to expound on that?

[Cobalt]

I built something similar to where you're headed (LW 14.5, KMR13, BCM BCG, Bravo SOPMOD, MBUS PRO, PA Microdot that will eventually become an H1). And yes, I like it better than some of the other configurations I've built - it's fast and just plain fun. Don't be surprised if you burn through some cash looking for "the perfect muzzle device" on the lighter carbine.

When I see someone say "I'm buying a new barrel, rail and optic; and I've already upgraded my BCG" it makes me wonder why they aren't just spending a little more to build a new complete upper. Especially in a case like this where one has to buy a new 0.625" gas block anyway - you're not really re-using that much stuff. The older complete upper could be sold to recoup some value.

That said, from what you're considering:

I stil don't know why so people want T1's instead of a lower-priced H1 ($535 delivered, with ADM mount). Are that many folks really running night vision gear or submerging their rifles in 20' of water?

That's a seriously good barrel that most people would be very unlikely to shoot out. But I believe that the KMR rail isn't right for everyone - despite the cool WOW factor and some great marketing. It's a pain to install without damage (a heat gun, really?) and the magnesium alloy is relatively soft/fragile.
- If you're married to keymod, I would be inclined to recommend a 12" FORCE over the 13" KMR for most builds. It is almost $100 less expensive, installs easily, is rock solid, is more rugged overall and weighs only 2.4 oz more.
- If the Force's 1.8" OD bugs you (e.g., with a LW barrel profile), I would suggest at a 12" Midwest Industries SSK, which weights in very near the KMR, has a smaller OD, comes in $70 under the KMR and is still made of harder stuff.
- And yes, I had to buy a KMR myself to reach this conclusion, so I understand if you still want to try one :)

The BAD selector is no-brainer good and I would seriously consider spending the cash saved with the alternate rails on a FCG upgrade.
- I'm sold on ALG/Geissele but there are plenty of other great options depending on the carbine's use.

I would love to build another rifle but I'm only 20. I built (my) AR for my dad. He wanted it with the goal of me picking up a full BCM Rifle but he just lets me shoot it. I would like to give him back this rifle and just pickup a BCM full rifle.
I turn 21 next year so then I want to build my dream rifle. No holds barred just the best of the best. I've heard of a lot of people saying that the magnesium in the KMR although is strong is not as strong as aluminum. I would like to pickup a Keymod style handguard. You got me thinking about the H1, I don't need the night vision capability or the ability to submerge it and would like to save a bit of money where possible.

[Cobalt]

I've heard of people using hair dryers to install the KMR, seems like something most folks have around the house. I hadn't heard anything about softness/fragility of the magnesium/aluminum alloy, however. Care to expound on that?

I've already seen where some people that got the early prototypes of the KMR, where the finish along with some minor pieces were already chipping the inside of it from installing it and hitting the barrel.

[UWone77]

I've already seen where some people that got the early prototypes of the KMR, where the finish along with some minor pieces were already chipping the inside of it from installing it and hitting the barrel.

There's a thread on M4Carbine where someone had chipping/finish removing just from the application of tape on the rail. Not sure if that affects the actual integrity of it. I'll leave that up to you metal experts.

Cobalt, if you plan on building the best of the best rifle when you hit 21, why not just keep shooting what you're shooting, and start gathering parts for your dream gun?

You're way ahead of the game in terms of age, when I was 21, I had 1 pistol... for many years after that too.

So what's the dream gun parts list consist of so far out of curiosity?

[Calengor]

The thread on m4c was very clear that what comes off is the paint they apply over the finish, not the metal or finish themselves, and could easily be repainted. That didn't strike me as affecting the structural integrity of the rail.

[RiverRat]

I've heard of people using hair dryers to install the KMR, seems like something most folks have around the house. I hadn't heard anything about softness/fragility of the magnesium/aluminum alloy, however. Care to expound on that?

Here's are three concrete examples of the softness of the alloy - none of which affect function (though future dis-assembly might be an interesting process)

First:
- any burr created on the nut-to-wrench mating surfaces during install will leave a gouge in the handguard's ID when it is fitted. When you see it happen, it's pretty clear that 1) the fit is tight and 2) the material is soft. And yes, the mating surfaces of the nut can (probably will) deform during sequential torquing.
- any uneven/peeled surface on the rail's ID makes both finishing the install and any subsequent removal more difficult, because the removed material causes binding between the nut and handguard. I suggest carefully deburing the nut after getting it torqued to spec (when the damage, if any, would occur).
- even if deburred, it is very difficult to heat the rail for expansion then get it mounted before it cools. Reheating is fine (and included in the instructions)- but I saw a bit of interior "scuffing" occur specifically when the tube had cooled. Next time (if there is one), I will be far more careful in deburring.

Second:
- the recommended procedure for installing the anti-rotation tab is pretty bad, IMO. You attach the tab to the upper and slide the rail down onto it. It's very easy for the steel tab to strike the rail as the handguard moves into it's final position - when it does, it can causes minor damage to the rail. It appears to be more than surface finish delamination, though I caught it before anything serious occurred so maybe its just flaking off the coat. But if you;ve ever used a magnesium fire starter, thats almost how if felt. At that point, I decided the mate the tab to the rail before seating the rail all the way, then let the tab slide over the upper receiver - that worked better and avoided damage because any scraping was steel on anodized aluminum - which seemed to be a much harder surface than that of the handguard.

Third
- there has been some very minor marring just from testing accessories and there's an indentation on the rail from a very minor bump from another rifle. These are purely cosmetic, but they speak to the hardness of the material.

So perhaps "frail" isn't the right word, but I'll stick by the use of the word "soft." Has any of this affected the usablity of the rail - heck no. In fact, a case could be made that soft (malleable) is better than hard for parts like a rail system because it would deform on impact and remain usable, not shear off. But my limited experience (one install, shakedown use for picking a muzzle device to pin), the rail is going to ding/deform more in normal use than my Evolution, Force and SS Gen 2 rails have. And hat's OK - this isn't a safe queen by any stretch of the imagination.

[Calengor]

Here's are three concrete examples of the softness of the alloy - none of which affect function (though future dis-assembly might be an interesting process).

Thanks for the detailed and well thought out response!

[Cobalt]

There's a thread on M4Carbine where someone had chipping/finish removing just from the application of tape on the rail. Not sure if that affects the actual integrity of it. I'll leave that up to you metal experts.

Cobalt, if you plan on building the best of the best rifle when you hit 21, why not just keep shooting what you're shooting, and start gathering parts for your dream gun?

You're way ahead of the game in terms of age, when I was 21, I had 1 pistol... for many years after that too.

So what's the dream gun parts list consist of so far out of curiosity?

Haha, I get that alot. I'm not your average 20 year old. I don't like to drink, party, do drugs or any of that jazz. I would rather save my money for either truck parts or gun stuff. lol.
Here is my list of things I plan on getting. (Will be revised as time goes on)

Upper:
BCM upper
BCM 16in BFH Barrel
Noveske Switchblock.
AAC Breakout 2.0
PWS Key Mod 12in Rail
BCM BCG
BCM Mod 3 Charging Handle.

Lower:
AXTS AX556 Lower
Spikes Battle Trigger
KNS Anti Rotation Pins
Battle Arms Ambi Safety
PWS Buffer with Ambi QD Sockets
H2 Buffer
Daniel Defense Lower parts kit to supplement any missing parts.
Mapgul MIAD 1.1
B5 Systemes SOPMOD.

I love gunstruction! lol.

[Aragorn]

Haha, I get that alot. I'm not your average 20 year old. I don't like to drink, party, do drugs or any of that jazz. I would rather save my money for either truck parts or gun stuff. lol.
Here is my list of things I plan on getting. (Will be revised as time goes on)

Upper:
BCM upper
BCM 16in BFH Barrel
Noveske Switchblock.
AAC Breakout 2.0
PWS Key Mod 12in Rail
BCM BCG
BCM Mod 3 Charging Handle.

Lower:
AXTS AX556 Lower
Spikes Battle Trigger
KNS Anti Rotation Pins
Battle Arms Ambi Safety
PWS Buffer with Ambi QD Sockets
H2 Buffer
Daniel Defense Lower parts kit to supplement any missing parts.
Mapgul MIAD 1.1
B5 Systemes SOPMOD.

I love gunstruction! lol.

Good parts list, but I wouldn't bother with a switchblock unless you intend to shoot suppressed. As for the lower parts, looks like Rainier is releasing something similar to the AXTS but without the ambi bolt release, with will probably be cheaper I'd think.

(http://www.weaponevolution.com/forum...d-A-DAC-Lowers)

You could also do just as good or better than the Spikes Battle Trigger with an ALG ACT or the QMS. Probably won't need the KNS pins either, unless you just like how they look.

Whatever you decide to do though, sounds like it'll be sweet.

[Cobalt]

Good parts list, but I wouldn't bother with a switchblock unless you intend to shoot suppressed. As for the lower parts, looks like Rainier is releasing something similar to the AXTS but without the ambi bolt release, with will probably be cheaper I'd think.

(http://www.weaponevolution.com/forum...d-A-DAC-Lowers)

You could also do just as good or better than the Spikes Battle Trigger with an ALG ACT or the QMS. Probably won't need the KNS pins either, unless you just like how they look.

Whatever you decide to do though, sounds like it'll be sweet.

I plan on moving out of California in the future and plan on purchasing a can when I move out of state.
I like the functionality of that Rainier lower. I run a BAD lever on my current AR and have found a way to lock the bolt with it either side.
I've been looking at the ALG ACT, i've heard really good things about them and the fact that they are the sister company to Geissele. I've always liked the look of the KNS pins, more a need/novelty than anything.

[UWone77]

Looks solid.

Like I said before, sounds like you just need to start gathering parts for that build vs a temp/hold over one that you won't be 100% satisfied with. I'm guessing by the time you're 21, you'll have most if not all of that rifle done. Good to write down the parts now and discuss them, that way you can change direction or ideas, because we all know how builds go.