Build an AR on a TIGHT budget - $500

[camomike]

Ready for this?
http://palmettostatearmory.com/index...ier-c158-bolt/
BCG$69.99
http://palmettostatearmory.com/index.../view/id/1131/
LPK &stock kit $79.99
http://palmettostatearmory.com/index...view/id/17498/
16" Dissy upper $224.99

Bundled and shipped $374.97

http://www.amazon.com/Magpul-MBUS-Re...ds=magpul+buis
MUGPUL BUS $42.07 shipped

https://www.primaryarms.com/Radical_...p/rfcharge.htm
CH $13.99
https://www.primaryarms.com/Aero_Pre...2.htm?CartID=2
AP lower $58.00
$81.99 Bundled and shipped

374.97
81.99
+42.07
=$499.03

But as UW stated, you get what you pay for.

Side note, opted for a better sight then to grab a mag with this one. Saw a BUIS for $13.19(shipped) which would have left me around $29.85 for mags.

[WHSmithIV]

Definitely some good deals. Comes in at under 500 and some could even probably be saved using a blem lower receiver. Sure, it's not a $1000 rifle, but it is a good and functional rifle. Not everyone can afford a high priced, high end AR, but they CAN afford a decent AR that's reliable and functional.

[UWone77]

If you buy the upper complete, there isnt really any special tools needed for the lower is there? I just wrapped tape on a pair of pliers to push in pins and used a drill bit for the detents. It's pretty easy honestly. You can buy tools to make it easier though....

Using pliers is not the correct way to install roll pins. I would not advocate new builders to installing them that way.

The way the OP described the parts, it appears in this case a complete upper was not going to be purchased.

[camomike]

Using pliers is not the correct way to install roll pins. I would not advocate new builders to installing them that way.

The way the OP described the parts, it appears in this case a complete upper was not going to be purchased.

Thought the same. But when you start adding up the tool cost, it blows the budget out of the water. Vise, soft jaws for the vise, upper vise block, Armorer's wrench, torque bar, punch kit, rubber mallet, taper pin bit and jig... easily the cost of an assembled upper in tools alone. Not to metion can be dangerous if not assembled to spec. Makes a hell of a lot more sense to purchase a preassembled upper.

The lower is the easy part. That can be done with a carriage bolt, hammer, book, screw driver and 3 dollar castle nut wrench.

[Computalotapus]

You don't have to have the best tools on the market and if you plan on building more than 2 AR's I recommend getting the basic tools

Clamp On Table Vise $18.95
Gunsmithing Hammer with 4 Tips $12.99
Tapco Intrafuse AR Armorer's Tool $32.20
Gunsmithing Armorer Steel Roll Pin Starter Pin Punch Kit $19.95
TEKTON 6739 Pin Punch Set $11.61
NO-M.A.R Pin Upper and Lower Receiver Vice Block Combo $23.69

You will need a torque wrench and I just borrow one from a coworker when I need it. If you buy one look at spending $50+ at the minimum.

Now I do not claim these are the best tools for the job but they are the basic tools for the job and should get you through plenty of builds if you take care of them and use them correctly. Basically $120 + some shipping on certain items all through amazon.

[JoshAston]

http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts...55-150395.aspx

If code GS7 is still active that gets you a build kit at under $350, add in a $50 lower and you're under $400, assuming you have the necessary tools.

[WHSmithIV]

I actually used an electronics Molex pin punch I have to drive in some of my roll pins. The sleeve fit perfectly on the pin and allowed me to tap the pins in most of the way without marring the receivers.

Then I used vice grips with taped jaws and minimal adjusted pressure as a press to press them in the last little tiny bit. I just re-adjusted the pressure after each tiny pressing. I don't have a mounted bench vice but the autobody shop in town who's computers I take care of does and they were happy to let me use theirs when I installed the barrel and flash hider. I got a dab of bearing grease from them too to put a light coating on the barrel extension as an anti sieze compound. I could have used a torque wrench from them, but it simply wasn't needed. Hand tightened the barrel nut and it was almost lined up for the gas tube, simply went to the next hole. It was very obvious that the previous would have not been tight enough and the one after I probably couldn't tighten to any way. Therefore the one I tightened to had to be the right one. Granted, with a different type of barrel nut you might want a torque wrench. I do have lower and upper vice blocks - they came in the $50 classified ad deal that I got with my hand guard and gas block as did the 2 castle nut wrenches. The armorers wrench I bought.

(I do have a bench vice, it's just not mounted anywhere since I haven't yet finished building the garage....)

If an upper can be bought at a great price, I'd say go for it. I wanted a quad rail free float handguard on that rifle though and needed to keep any purchase down to around $100 at any given time.

It's not rocket science and there's all sorts of instructions out there.

But, if someone build themselves a $500 rifle even if they get a complete upper, that's OK. I'll send them the P-mag.

[UWone77]

Keep an eye out for $50 PSA blem lowers. They have several sales a year and their "blems" are as good as any lower I've owned.

You know Dave, while we're on the topic of $50 lowers. I need another lower like another hole in the head. I think if you have the funds I could think of worse ways than to have a couple of blem PSA lowers tucked back in the safe.

With that being said, I found a Chainsaw Gen 2 Noveske lower yesterday and it followed me home unfortunately. $150.... not bad though considering!

[WHSmithIV]

You know Dave, while we're on the topic of $50 lowers. I need another lower like another hole in the head. I think if you have the funds I could think of worse ways than to have a couple of blem PSA lowers tucked back in the safe.

With that being said, I found a Chainsaw Gen 2 Noveske lower yesterday and it followed me home unfortunately. $150.... not bad though considering!

I'll keep an eye out on PSA for when they have their blem lowers on sale. I'm sure I'll eventually need another anyway. Hopefully one of their sales will coincide with when I have an extra $50..

[mustangfreek]

I'll keep an eye out on PSA for when they have their blem lowers on sale. I'm sure I'll eventually need another anyway. Hopefully one of their sales will coincide with when I have an extra $50..

Black friday, im betting they will have 40-50 dollar lowers again..

[WHSmithIV]

I just created an account in PSA and signed up for their newsletter so I should get a notification when they have sales (I hope).

[Ride4frnt]

I just created an account in PSA and signed up for their newsletter so I should get a notification when they have sales (I hope).

Look on their site daily. They always have awesome sales.

[Kopis]

Using pliers is not the correct way to install roll pins. I would not advocate new builders to installing them that way.

The way the OP described the parts, it appears in this case a complete upper was not going to be purchased.

Ive done four that way now... Im sure there is a fancy tool but it works perfectly and doesnt damage the lower at all. I watched a few vids on youtube before the first one and read some tips. It's pretty easy. What is your reason for not recommending doing it this way ?


those PSA deals are amazing!

[UWone77]

Ive done four that way now... Im sure there is a fancy tool but it works perfectly and doesnt damage the lower at all. I watched a few vids on youtube before the first one and read some tips. It's pretty easy. What is your reason for not recommending doing it this way ?


those PSA deals are amazing!

One slip of the pliers and enjoy the idiot mark. Yeah, people use tape, but I've seen many layers of tape gouged through. Another issue is pliers sometime damage the roll pins before they get inserted. People use vice grips and pliers all the time, but the bottom line it's a gamble using them. At some point they will slip. A hammer, punch, and roll pin starters are not "fancy" tools, but the correct tools.

I think you just illustrated why I use the correct tools vs pliers for me. They work perfectly, and doesn't damage my lower.

[camomike]

There is also angular momentum. It's not a straight push using a pliers to bite it down. I've seen a roll pin bend in half using the plier method. He had to use a vise grip to pull it back out. Major eye soar to the finish. It also wowed the hole in the softer aluminum.