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  1. #1
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    AR weight savings?

    All of my ARs are built on billet receiver sets. I'm thinking through another build and I have a question for you guys.

    If you have two identical ARs but the only difference is the receiver set, billet vs cast, how much weight savings does that offer?

    I don't want to go 'extreme' in the quest for a light rifle so I'm not at all interested in those skeleton lowers or something made out of exotic metals that cost 5x what a regular one is.

    Rather than that I'm thinking that careful selection of somewhat standard parts could help a bit.
    Last edited by alamo5000; 8 January 2024 at 10:31.

  2. #2
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    My forged Mega upper/lower weighs 23-24 oz built w/o BCG and rear extension. How much less that is than a billet I don’t know.
    “ When I comes to modern politics, I think the inverse of Hanlon's Razor applies...In other words, "Never attribute to stupidity that which is adequately explained by malice." - Kerplode

  3. #3
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    The main areas to look at are handguard weights, barrel weights, optic and optic mount weights, and accessory weights.

    Most neglect the fact their optic and mount are the most determining factors but there are others like a two cell versus a one cell weapon mounted light as battery numbers add up. Most if not all shooters with the exception of the precision crowd, would be perfectly suited with a CHF pencil or a medium contour barrel if flex is a concern. Handguards if flex isn't your concern don't use a BUIS, and not using active aiming, then you'd be fine with the tubes that are super light like what V7, MI, and some others offer.

    I would have mentioned stock weights are important too but if your rifle is front heavy than a SOPMOD despite being of some heft, brings balance. But if you were smart with the accessory additions up front then you can get away with a lighter buttstock like what Magpul, BCM, and some others have available to buy.

    Have you ever noticed in any carbine class, that the instructors all have one thing in general common? Lightweight rifles with lightweight everything else from scopes, prisms, dots, optic mounts, handguards, stocks, lights, and lasers. They probably know something by now after all of those decades of mil, fed, or police service. Some things to think about and food for thought.
    Last edited by TheRifleman; 8 January 2024 at 23:06.

  4. #4
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    Oooh! I've been down this path!

    I don't know the exact answer to your specific question on weight savings for standard forged receiver set vs billet, but I'm going to answer questions you didn't ask, regardless!

    Rifleman actually covered most of the bases already, though. Handguard, barrel, stock, and optic are your big decisions that impact weight. A standard forged receiver set is actually fairly lightweight.

    At the extreme end, I have a 2A Balios Light build with substantial V7 content, a pencil barrel (VDI), and a lightweight BCG and tuned gas via SLR AGB. Thing is super light and actually quite fun to shoot with the low reciprocating mass. But I wouldn't want to go to war with it. As you might guess from the color choice, this was my attempt at having something in the safe that the ladies of the household might be more inclined to shoot.



    However, for a fighting carbine, just clone the BCM Recce KMR/MCMR series and throw and Aimpoint Micro on it. Even with WML these things are light compared to most carbines. I've got a few carbines that cost quite a bit more, including Sig SPEAR LT and LMT SPECWAR, but my old DI BCM clones are still at the top of the list of my favorites because they handle so well. So well, in fact, I have two (NFA and not). And to Rifleman's point, so handy that I don't might a touch extra weight from the SOPMOD stock. Frank Proctor sling for additional lightness.


  5. #5
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    Why would you go with a cast receiver rather than a forged or billet?

  6. #6
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    If you search, I built two very lightweight rifles and documented the places and I think the components I used. Theres a lot of weight to saved other than the receivers. I used a lot to Ti parts and researched the weight of about everything I used. I gave one to my Bro-in=law and still have the other. Do some research for lightest weigt components you can find including barrels, handguards, bolts etc. Where ever possible I think I used Titanium. V7, if they're still in biz comes to mind. Theres other info in those builds that might help you.

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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Default.mp3 View Post
    Why would you go with a cast receiver rather than a forged or billet?
    I missed that. I assumed he meant Forged.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoilerUp View Post
    I missed that. I assumed he meant Forged.
    Same, lol. If forged is available, get the forged.

    Fun fact for the uneducated if any in here: One of the reasons for the ACOG's legendary resilience almost being indestructible? Forged housing.

  9. #9
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    Forged aluminum is stronger, lighter, and slightly smaller than billet aluminum ( this is why some rails with anti-rotation tabs wont fit certain billet uppers).

    Billet is prettier... sometimes.
    There's no "Team" in F**K YOU!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoilerUp View Post
    I missed that. I assumed he meant Forged.
    Quote Originally Posted by Default.mp3 View Post
    Why would you go with a cast receiver rather than a forged or billet?
    Forged is actually what I meant to say. For whatever reason my brain wasn't in gear at the time so I couldn't think of the word I was looking for.

    Anyway thanks for the replies so far.

    I have had lots of irons in the fire lately so my brain is all over the place.

    That said I still keep coming back to the idea of having a small rifle for the car/truck. Hence I want to balance out 'good' and 'good enough'. In other words I don't want to leave a $4000 rifle (and accessories) in the car.

    I think having a 12.5 or something like that would be good. I'm even debating myself if I want to have a red dot on it. I'm probably leaning towards yes, but something like a holosun that I won't be too attached to. I say probably yes on the dot simply because I have gotten used to using dots and honestly my vision is getting a bit worse over time.

    I could probably go with supersonic 300blk in some other length as well.

    The only other things I would prefer is a mid tier light and a sling. That said I still want to make it lighter without being ridiculous about it.

    My laptop is currently out of commission so Googling stuff is a pain until it gets fixed. (The battery died and I am waiting on the replacement for a few weeks already).

  11. #11
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    You have lots of options for all of those things you mentioned by the way. How you go after it with the implementation is up to you.

    Just remember parts are not all just parts, and cheap & effective is most often just cheap and often ineffective.

  12. #12
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    For the money, the Aero Atlas S are light and good. I still prefer the BCM, but they cost a few bucks more.

    Something like this seems like it would scratch your itch: https://www.aeroprecisionusa.com/ar1...anodized-black

  13. #13
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    Ya, it's hard to say Aero isn't the answer for a cheaper yet somewhat dependable and durable rifle. And I'm saying this while wearing my PSA t shirt with absolutely zero shame

  14. #14
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    Oh, and Frank Proctor is THE sling for a light weight build: https://www.frankproctorshooting.com/proctor-sling/

  15. #15
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    Avoid the "Few bucks more" rabbit hole. A "truck gun" is a jackpot for thieves. A pony receiver set, with a BA barrel/bolt will get you cheap and effective, unless you fall prey to "betting your life on it".Flame away.
    There's no "Team" in F**K YOU!

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