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  1. #1
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    Talk to me about upper vice blocks

    Well the time has come for me to stop pussyfooting around and buy one. The last few uppers I've assembled have been with a borrowed vice block and armorers tool from the neighbor. So I'm in the market for an upper vice block and an armorers tool, but I'm not too concerned with the latter.

    What types of blocks are you guys using? I want one that covers the gamut, billet or forged uppers. The clamp style blocks don't work well with billet uppers, I found that out when I used one with my CMT upper. It works, but not properly, and frankly I wouldn't continue to do it.

    So that leaves reaction rods and pin style vise blocks. I've read certain things that say pin style vise blocks are no good for barrel/flash hider install, and I've read things to the contrary. I've also SEEN a reputable local gun builder (specializes in high dollar accuracy builds catered to the 3 gun crowd, sponsors a few big name 3 gun shooters) using the pin style to assemble uppers.

    Anything you guys would recommend? The geissele reaction rod is a bit rich for my blood but I guess I could consider it. Brownells also offers their own reaction rod which works differently than the geissele for a much lower price. Anyone use one? May grab one and try it out.

    http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...e-_-IR-_-59979

  2. #2
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    I like this set and have no complaints with it PlastiXrevolution http://www.plastixrevolution.net/pro...se-block-combo
    Just a regular guy.

  3. #3
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    Reaction rod hands down. If you must use a block style the DPMS Claw is the best one I have used.

  4. #4
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    I want to try the new magpul BEV block and their new wrench

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by mustangfreek View Post
    I want to try the new magpul BEV block and their new wrench
    True! Forgot about those!

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ride4frnt View Post
    True! Forgot about those!
    Let us know how it works out - if you get that set. Might pick up that set later on down the road for when I get into the building part of my AR addiction. (Is it bad my wallet already hates me?)

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thompson View Post
    Let us know how it works out - if you get that set. Might pick up that set later on down the road for when I get into the building part of my AR addiction. (Is it bad my wallet already hates me?)
    Doubt I'll buy the wrench, but the vice block is now on my radar. I don't see a need for a $80 wrench that has no added benefits over any other brand.

  8. #8
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    love my Geissele Reaction Rod
    -----------------------------------------------
    Jim
    "You can never have too many guns" - my wife's actual comment
    Alaska Fun

  9. #9
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    I know it's a bit pricey, but I'm a huge fan of the Geissele rod. I understand the Brownells one is doing basically the same thing from a different angle, but setup is a little more complicated, especially for tool bench. With the Geissele (and KAC) rod, you just pop it in the vice, slide in the extension and start torquing, be it muzzle devices or a barrel nut.

    One thing to note on a reaction rod...it's possible with the Geissele version to accidentally push the barrel forward before the nut is tightened, at least with a barrel nut that's a little tight. The nut should still seat the extension into the receiver, but I'd rather it start there. Once you realize it's something to watch out for, it's not a big deal.

    But the single best value of the reaction rod, for me, is for muzzle devices. I never had the best luck with barrel blocks, and if it's a SBR, it's a no go. Torquing the muzzle with a Delrin block just doesn't seem like the smart thing to do to aluminum.

  10. #10
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    Here's Brownell's onsale for $29.99.

    http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...prod27452.aspx
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  11. #11
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    I might have given the Brownell's a try had I seen it before I bought the reaction rods. The 5.56 isn't bad at $99 but the 7.62 hurt at almost 2 bills. No way I would ever torque a 7.62 barrel without it again.
    Last edited by SINNER; 4 November 2014 at 17:25.

  12. #12
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    The only thing that turns me off about the brownells one is the fact that it's supposed to be used vertically. My vice has horizontal jaws on it, and I'm not sure how well they will clamp the wrench... Anyone got any input?

  13. #13
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    I hemmed and hawed over the plastic receiver vice blocks and the reaction rod before my first build and ended up getting the reaction rod. It is a little pricey but if you do a lot of builds and muzzle device swaps it more than pays for itself compared to gunsmithing fee's...

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ride4frnt View Post
    The only thing that turns me off about the brownells one is the fact that it's supposed to be used vertically. My vice has horizontal jaws on it, and I'm not sure how well they will clamp the wrench... Anyone got any input?
    I would say the vertical orientation is just to protect the mechanically challenged that would allow the barrel to become slightly disengaged from the tool's splines. I would not hesitate for a second to use it in another orientation. I usually set my reaction rods upward at a 20-25* angle just because it's easier than horizontal. Just watched the video that would not load before. I would make a square adapter to vise mount the brownell's like the Reaction rod.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by SINNER View Post
    I would say the vertical orientation is just to protect the mechanically challenged that would allow the barrel to become slightly disengaged from the tool's splines. I would not hesitate for a second to use it in another orientation. I usually set my reaction rods upward at a 20-25* angle just because it's easier than horizontal. Just watched the video that would not load before. I would make a square adapter to vise mount the brownell's like the Reaction rod.
    I reckon you're correct. Orientation shouldn't have anything to do with the torque on the barrel. I think I'll give the brownells unit a try. Or like you said, 1/2" square bar shoved into the back of the brownells rod and you've essentially got a geissele rod.

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